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silverfox4

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About silverfox4

  • Birthday 08/06/1940

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    Burlington, Ontario

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  1. I followed the lead of other forum members with a simple clip on mirror that provides a good field of view. Cheers, Alf
  2. Thanks for that thought. Actually, Goodparts hubs are on my wish list for the 4A, hopefully this winter, but at the moment I know nothing about their internals as there are fewer images compared to the CDD version. I do know that the Good parts hub is 6" long between ctr U/J and wheel flange versus the subject hub is 5 5/8". Also all modern hub versions have the nut at the outboard versus inboard for the above. Cheers, Alf
  3. Thanks John, That's very interesting. I wonder if this hub might be a 70's fore-runner to the CDD hubs, as I note that their spline is on the outboard wheel flange as opposed to the coarse spllne for the in-board U/J yoke. I should try and find out what the CDD hub arrangement dimensions are. Cheers, Alf
  4. Hi All, My initial thought is that the hub might be the TR outboard sliding shaft which has been shortened and splined - possibly for competition use. This is a double roller bearing configuration and appears quite robust. One has damage on the bearing faces so needs repair, but I'm wondering if there is a possible application in the TR world. Cheers, Alf
  5. Is it in fact a roll pin as opposed to machined solid steel pin? Alf
  6. Hi John, I am in the same situation as extreme heat and wear has destroyed the needle roller bearings in the gears as well as the bronze bush you mention - there is 3mm radial movement now. The one solution I have found (cant recall where off hand is to drill the pins out with a 3/32" drill in a bench drill. I have not yet ried this but plan to have a go in a week or two when I have enough courage. Per Stuarts post, ORS can supply a complete with bearings, pins and washers. Cheers, Alf
  7. Just a different experience to Chris The PO had used a good amount of sealant/adhesive in attaching the rubber seals to the chassis floor. When I had to remove the cover for the engine rebuild, I found a real mess on the floor and a perfectly clean cover - it took days to remove and clean that mess. I cursed during the entire process and vowed not to repeat and have my son (or me) face the same problem. For the replacement two piece cover I chose 12 mm dense glazing foam attached to the cover first, and with the cover having to come on and off several times during the fitment proc
  8. Many thanks for guidance received - this is a wrap. Following a gentle spin of the tight ball joint, the force has been reduced from 12 - 14 lbs registering circa 5 - 7 lbs to rotate using the steering arm (6"). I also like the feel of the movement and feel confident that ball joints should not contribute to heavy steering. Both sides now registering 5-7 lbs installed and 1-2 lbs on the bare ball joint (10" spanner arm) Roy - I note you reside in Leigh. I have friends there on Woodcote Rd - really enjoy a prawn sandwich after a stroll through Old Leigh, 'tis a great spot!
  9. Thanks all, based on the great feedback, I'll leave the passenger side as is then and move on to the left and see how that turns out with the only difference being the this one has been turned with a drill. Will report back relative to the simple test noted following. FWIW, I did try the torque -to-turn test on the bare joint using a 10" spanner for the arm - both the old and the new (after spinning) results within the accuracy of this Heath Robinson technique, were as close as to next to nothing, i.e. 1.00 lb. using a better scale for actual reading Cheers Alf
  10. Many thanks for welcome responses Hamish - great video, even my old joints are not that bad. I am still unsure whether my old joints are are OK or not - will reassess as I tried the drill trick on one and it seems to spin a little easier than the new one. I wonder if ball joints take on a wear pattern with time that makes it increasingly harder for them to turn Marco - if I read you correctly, yes the suspension is at ride height with the spring compressor still in place. The joint taper seems to be sitting correctly with a 16.4 mm gap between body and vertical link.
  11. Now in the process of wrapping up the 4A's front end check and rebuild. The steering always seemed heavy with the 195's, but had nothing to compare it with. During the re-assembly and checking for possible sources contributing to heavy steering, the trunnion rotation is light and smooth so no issues there. however, the next component in the chain being the top ball joint requires 12 lb force to initiate and sustain slow rotation the vertical link. This is with a new Amsteer ball joint, and I have no experience to determine how it should compare to to the 20 year old one of unknown make
  12. I too had this challenge on the 4A. I sat down and took time to assess all the witness marks on both the dash angle bracket and the back of the H-Frame, and noted some misalignment and interference issues which made it just "too tight" a fit. After some (maybe considerable) dremel work on the H-frame with the cover removed and straightening the angle bracket, it is now a routine snug fit on install and removal. I hope my son thanks me 20 years from now (LOL). Cheers, Alf
  13. Special thanks to David for mailing a copy of his rear bulkhead template across the pond - much appreciated Cheers, Alf
  14. +1 for Ed's approach - but a poor copy though. I used a brass 1/2" to 5/8" adaptor to install as I had difficulty heating the hose and encouraging it over the valve outlet Cheers, Alf
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