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silverfox4

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About silverfox4

  • Birthday 08/06/1940

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    Burlington, Ontario

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  1. got to be a scam - there are no other products from that company and a quick chat with Dr Google shows it to be a Finkbeiner lift made in Germany. Cheers Alf
  2. Thanks all, but for now I think I'll see how the existing flaring on the pipe works out. I have yet to install the battery tray, so any issues there may yet be cause to remove and do more cobbling. If that is necessary I will have a look at the soldering option. Thanks again, Alf
  3. Thanks Peter, good to know, Cheers, Alf
  4. The supplier of this one used a flaring tool on the end, though I wish it were more pronounced. Good ideas there, which I might try... but, does solder stick to Stainless? Cheers, Alf
  5. Thanks for all the helpful comments - I think the situation is now resolved. A few observations: a) the original pipe bends allowed for better clearance around the distributor. b) the 470mm length shown on the drawing posted by Peter is critical - I used 473mm c) there is good reason for the 18 deg angle for the rear mounting tab - I just leaned on it at the rear bend to get everything looking tidy d) removing the surplus tab per Roger's observation was of course fundamental. Thanks again, Alf
  6. Ah, maybe that explains rear part of the problem -- thanks Roger. I have been trying to figure out how to bolt the pipe bracket to that bracket already attached to the manifold bolt, and there is no easy way other than to make U-holes in both the pipe bracket and that black bracket, and slide the two together. That is why I responded to Pete in a previous post, that would the U-hole not serve the same purpose as just unbolting at that connection with the black bracket. Maybe the PO added it as a solution???. So I guess that plate is non-stock then. Thanks again, Cheers Alf
  7. I followed Waldi's suggestion only to find that there is nominal interference fit e.g. the pipe is 0.25mm larger than the spigot in the new adapter, so some emery paper work required - still working on that. Now have to follow on Pete's suggestion for the U-shaped hole. Two questions here a) Which side of the that bracket should be U-shaped i.e. the hole for the pipe or the manifold stud.and b) which side of the engine lift bracket does the pipe bracket go? Pondering this leads one to think it may be best to follow Roger's suggestion and do way with the fixed bracket and replace with something else I have cut the pipe for length and tried the rough install. Apart from getting the pipe to seat in the adapter, the welded bracket on the new pipe is too long, so more cobbling required and that will depend on which side of the other brackets it should go The old pipe in situ The new pipe approximately in situ Looking at all these hassles and according Alan, I think I'll give TRShop a call...... Cheers, Alf
  8. I have tape marked the new one the intended shortening cut to see it might fit. Right now I am trying to free-up the nut of the old one so I can check the installed position of the old one again for comparison. The drawing shows 470mm length, 60mm between bends with approx. 7mm off-set and the rear bracket at 18 deg. The new one is around 40mm between bends, with a 7mm off-set, so it is close, since it can be cut to the 470 mm length. but the rear bracket is parallel which will have to addressed. The old one is 478mm long with 90mm between bends with a 15mm off-set. The 8mm of extra length may explain why the rear section of the old one turns back in more than 90 deg The bottom line is that, other than rear bracket angle of 18 deg, the new one is probably closer to the drawing, so I will have a go to make it fit Good tip Pete on U-shape hole, but doesn't removing the fastening bolt on the rear bracket serve the dame purpose? Cheers, Alf
  9. Many thanks for informative comments. I will let TRF know that it is dimensionally way off - while the length can be altered (yes the olive moves easily), but the bends may be more of a challenge. So it looks as though I am not the only one. I will now start bending and cutting as Waldi has done, but as noted it really is a pita.- It should not be that difficult to replicate something so simple. Thx for the drawing Peter, I will try and bend up new one just in case I mess up this one. Again many thanks all, Cheers Alf
  10. Hi All This new SS water pipe from TRF requires some serious manipulation to fit properly not interfere with the battery box. Can anyone advise if it is standard practice to re0work this replacement part or is there a supplier with one that better matches the original? Cheers, Alf
  11. allow me to latch on with another related question. Do you still use the shield/cup and sealing ring when using the SuperPro trunnion bush kit SPF 1844K? Thx Alf PS my 4A IRS Moss catalogue indicates these parts on p42 as 96 and 97 as opposed to 56 and 57 - any significance here
  12. OK thanks Gavin, I don't the mirrors at the top of the list either. I keep kicking that one down the road as I know I should really rebuild the doors, replace seals, winder mechanisms etc. I hope to finish the full rebuild of the drivetrain by July But heh, mirrors always in the shadows.... Thanks Stuart, I had a look at those but still torn between the ones you have and the Tex versions. will close the thread out for another year Gavin...? Cheers, Alf
  13. Gavin, this thread that you kicked off is now a year down the road, so just wondering what has been your experience? Cheers, Alf
  14. Nice! Did you make the switch identifier back plates Alf
  15. Thanks Charlie, I am more of the mechanical type but this info is good to know. Cheers, Alf
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