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silverfox4

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About silverfox4

  • Birthday 08/06/1940

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    Burlington, Ontario

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  1. By way of an update, it's success at last though Its been awhile. For the claw holders, I removed the innards of the repro holders and transferred the spring and pigtail to the original holders. Also taking Stuarts comment into account, I gently filed the original holder to open it out ever so slightly. Now all good. For the push type holders in the small gauges - they were also all scrap, and there was no similar easy repair for the screw type bulbs. However Duncan at Classic Car LEDs provided the solution; namely convert the LED bulbs to bayonet style and use with his replacement push holder. All good now. Thanks to every one who contributed to my dilemma Cheers, Alf
  2. I must check whether we can get that Caliber RMD030 over here, as it seems even shorter than the Panasonic and Sony models I have looked at - and the price is good (the USB feature alone is worth it, instead of fitting a separate one) Alf
  3. I'm going for what seems to be referred to in the industry ads is a "mechless", which I guess is short for no CD player mechanicals. These come in DIN opening size but are shorter so the rear does not come too close to the tunnel, which makes for easy install and removal as required. Cheers, Alf
  4. Thanks Mike and Stuart. I have probably been unnecessarily driven by the notion of keeping the original fitment configuration. Based on these comments, I will now try to make the clayton replacement work somehow. Probably the "butt" contact between the heater and plenum will work with some suitable sealing foam weather-strip. Again many thanks, Alf
  5. The condition of the original heater does not look too bad , though it will need a new core as there are clear signs of swelling in the end caps. The motor spins smoothly and pushes good volume. I am therefore inclined to refresh this heater instead of using the Clayton, unless someone thinks it is a bad idea. Thanks and Cheers, Alf P.S. can anyone identify the sticker/paper I found in side the box? it was next to the motor
  6. More challenges to using the Clayton heater in the TR4A. The plenum opening is a radiused 4 3/16" (106 mm) to accommodate the Heater intake opening which is 4" (100mm), so the gasket fits snuggly. However the Clayton intake opening is 114 m at the outside of the flange (111 mm inside flange), so there is no space for a gasket -it would be an odd "butt" fit. At this point it appears the best solution is to rebuild the original heater and re-install. I'll put some pics of the original heater condition in another thread Cheers Alf
  7. Success! Thanks to Mike and Rich, I solicited help and had a go at the mounting bolts and after 1 1/2 hrs the heater was out. It looks a little dirty but easlily cleaned up provided the core is OK. Maybe I wasted money on the replacement, as I expected much worse Some further questions though; a) there were no spacers as shown in the parts manual - should I make some for use with the replacement heater? if so what is the depth required? b) the new heater has two extra outlets - I assume these pertain for application in a TR6 dash vents and not a TR4A even though it too has vents ?? Cheers and thanks again, Alf
  8. silverfox4

    Car cover

    how about a couple of queen size bed sheets, would that work? Alf
  9. I looked and there is no way to access the exposed threads to spray them liberally before attempting to remove, so will seek some assistance before attacking this looming challenge. Thanks all, Alf
  10. Thanks MIke, that sounds encouraging. The transmission is now back in place, but I still have the tunnel off while I sort out this replacement heater, gauge LED's and hopefully hesitant wipers. How difficult to access those plenum mounting bolts? I have the dash hanging loose to assess the best approach and so far I think I will call on some help as I have difficulty breathing while contorting myself for any length of time. Cheers for that, Alf
  11. Has anyone installed a Clayton replacement heater in the TR4A? The three mounting flanges of the Clayton Heater are flat, whereas the original heater has stepped flanges. Would the spacers compensate for the different height. Installation seems to be a little tougher than I thought. Any suggestion please Cheers, Alf
  12. I may be wrong but I understand that there are four positions for the large gear, each giving a difference of a 1/4 tooth, which could translate into your timing degree challenge. Two positions by rotating same face out and two positions by reversing face and rotating - an early Triumph tuning trick?? Alf
  13. Alan, I had a look at the eBay listing. From the listing picture I thought the tubes that the wire rack slides in would be attached to the wheel box on each side, but there doesn't seem to be the provision for that from the picture? Alf
  14. Thanks Alan, I had a look at their site but could not find anything specific to wheel box applications and prices etc, other two small images. I will have to call them when the time comes. Cheers, Alf
  15. been watching Shawn James with My Self Reliance for several years now. Fortunately he does have the skills necessary to live that lifestyle . I think you would have to watch many hours of YouTube video to get the full picture of the cabin build, outdoor kitchen, sauna/bath house, meals cooked fishing trips etc He has a real interest in photography and story telling so yes he does have some good high tech equipment including a mini pv solar charging station. He recently had many thousands of dollars in camera gear stolen
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