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silverfox4

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About silverfox4

  • Birthday 08/06/1940

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    Burlington, Ontario

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  1. I installed and removed a Clayton heater (not a good fit in a 4A), then refurbed the original and re-installed that. During the process I found the quickest and easiest way to fit the three bolts for the heater was to let the inner steel crush tube hang below the grommet on at least the last bolt, then once the thread had taken nicely, just push the crush tube back into the grommet. This way also helps not losing the thick spacer washers between the grommet and the plenum. The distorted choke cable issue is far worse with the Clayton. Cheers, Alf
  2. +1 and a like from me - just done as part of lengthy assembly, so might be awhile for confirmation. I had a piece of vinyl tube lying around that was a little smaller diameter, so cut a slit up the side and slipped in on without any problem. Cheers, Alf
  3. Mike, I have run into the same problem with the TR4A Koni 80-1784. Which of the Superflex bushes per Jerry's reference, did you identify as the correct one. I noted SF1011P as a possibility but cant be sure about which tube?? Cheers, Alf
  4. Thanks all, I'll try the 10v check then, but probably later as there is more important stuff to do at the moment. For now I am inclined to leave it until we are driving. Cheers, Alf
  5. Some research raised this thread, so pertinent to bump. My 4A might be on of those, as the voltage stabilizer has all male terminals (per the 128484 noted above). I have now purchased the solid state version and the instrument terminals "I" are female and the Battery "B" are male. To use this VS, do I have to change the instrument connection in the loom or forego the solid state version and stay with what I have for now. Also I cant say whether the instruments are reading high or low at this point. Cheers, Alf
  6. Well this is a pain - my voltage stabilizer only has male connectors. Is a matching solid state version available for the TR4A? Grrrrh! Cheers, Alf
  7. Thanks Richard, now I can try and stick my neck in there. Cheers, Alf
  8. An old thread but seems to be the best one to bump for my rather simple query. I purchased this solid state voltage stabilser for a TR4A and I notice that the Instrument terminal "I" is female spade and the Battery "B" a male spade - is this right, as it looks as the original on the car has male terminals only. Chers, Alf
  9. Andy, I also struggled trying to find new screw thread bulb holders (even NOS) as mine on the 4A essentially had their internals falling apart. After several months searching I broke down and purchased new bayonet style holders and matching LED bulbs from Duncan - all good now. #.url Cheers, Alf
  10. Red light is for Ignition/charging circuit
  11. I Purchased these for the 4A, from TRF a few months back (made in the UK) so a little surprised if not readily available. Cheers, Alf
  12. Thanks Ed, very helpful - think I can do that easily enough! Cheers, Alf
  13. Thanks Alan and Stuart - not seen an opening for the starter bolt before, so will look at that, particularly as a Hi-Torque could be something under consideration for the future. Cheers, Alf
  14. Thanks all, Waldi, regarding the number of openings, the three I have in mind, namely for the speedo, solenoid and GB filler plug appear to be commonplace - Revington seem to add add one more at the rear for what I assume is the driveshaft U/J? This plastic version is about 3mm thick so quite sturdy Thanks Mick, but I have to work with what I have - If this one had been split 40mm further forward the solenoid would work out fine but the opening for the speedo drive would be compromised. Probably the ideal split, if you doing one yourself, would not be radially symmetric, but rather diagonally across - it would start just forward of solenoid operating arm and finish where this one does i.e. behind the speedo drive. Cheers, Alf
  15. Coming back with more measurements. The rear most bolt hole of the H foot essentially lines up with the centre of the solenoid barrel, in which case you could not remove the rear section only without removing the H bracket. It also appears as though you need to remove the H in order to take off any cover for the solenoid. So maybe when all is said and doneto acces any access cover the carpet would to be easily removable and then if it solenoid adjusting the H frame as well - this leads me tto think that a square plate as opposed to rubber floor grommet is best - thoughts and suggestion most welcome John, based on this info, I'm not sure how feasible having the joint further back would as the next stop would be rear of the gearshift opening Cheers, Alf #.url #.url
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