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About Aldpilot

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR5 1968
    Mercedes 350SL 1972
    Jaguar XF Sportbrake 2013
    Jaguar XK8 2005

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  1. All sorted today and my nice new Revotec fan is fitted and working. Tried the impact gun (with a long extension), but that didn’t shift it (that surprised me). Mick’s idea of the large Stilson on the stubb extension and a long breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt worked in the end. It was done as a 2 man job, with one holding the Stilson and the other on the breaker bar. The Stilson was a bit big to get set against anything substantial enough, so was hand held by my assistant. It all worked a treat. I would think that should work for you Dave McD if the buzz gun doesn’t do it. Thanks to everyone for your ideas and help. Mike
  2. Thanks guys. A few things to try. I will have to remove the grill to get my Clarke impact wrench in, but that might be the way forward if Micks Stilson idea doesn’t work. The fan is off, but the fan extension needs removal Peter, to give room for the Revotec fan to fit on a TR5. I will get there in the end. Mike
  3. I am looking for advise on how to remove the bolt holding the fan extension to the crankshaft. I cannot seem to prevent the engine turning over as I try to undo the bolt. What’s the magic answer? Hopefully someone can guide me. Mike
  4. Hi folks. I bit the bullet and ended up paying £91.80 for a twin cable. It is now fitted and working. Did it last week before the really cold weather hit. Chris, thanks for the info and perhaps I will have a go at repairing the old set up. I will wait until warmer weather though. Apparently a Humber Sceptre has a twin choke cable too, but I didn’t manage to find one of those. Another job done. Thanks for all your comments/ideas. Mike
  5. Thanks Andrew. That was the answer and if only I had thought of it before taking it apart. Never mind, it keeps me busy. Mike
  6. Thanks guys. I have taken the old twin cable off (boy it was fiddly to remove) and the cable to the Metering Unit had snapped at the knob end. I was ahead of everyone’s comments on the cost saving, by using a single cable arrangement to the MU. Thanks for the idea of fitting a stand alone cable for fast idle. Not anal enough to want originality (well not at £100), although I do try to keep as much as possible along standard lines. Whatever I do, I am not looking forward to the job of reattaching cables and feeding through the bulk head. All part of the fun of our cars. Mike
  7. The galling part about it is a single throttle cable is only £10.36. I am stuck having to pay £90. So be it. Mike
  8. Why are replacement choke cables so expensive? I think I need a new one as the cable to the MU is not operating and has come adrift from the cockpit knob. Before I take it apart to see if I can fix it, I thought get a new one, in case that is the easy answer. Rimmers £102, Moss £86 but out of stock and Robsport £90. Anyone know if there are any cheaper options out there or do I just have to bite the bullet and pay up? Mike
  9. For the last 9 months the overdrive on my TR5 has been getting more and more inconsistent. It did not always engage when the column switch was thrown, but could engage at any time later and stayed in once set. It always disengaged when asked. As usual with these types of intermittent issues, I got various suggestions (but never the answer), with the most prolific being “is the gearbox oil level low?” After checking the power supply from the switch to the solenoid, there was nothing else for it but to remove the Gbox tunnel to get a good look. It was at this point that the overdrive inhibiting switch became visible. When I removed it the spring loaded round end looked worn. A call to Pete at Overdrive Supplies suggested swapping the switch with the reversing light switch (they are identical). This switch did not look worn and Eureka it fixed a long standing and annoying problem. Posted here to highlight something that no one had suggested to me. I hope it will help someone else in the future. Photo of the worn unit below. Part No BAU1074A from Rimmers at £7.44 Mike
  10. I occasionally have a similar issue when the throttle stop gets caught under my rubber over mat. Frightened the @#£& out of me the first time it happened. I now make sure the mat is pushed well into the footwell, but it has caught up once more when the mat moves.
  11. I replaced the front seal on my TR5 diff only yesterday. I tried to get a leather replacement, but an order for one from both Rimmer and Moss resulted in them sending rubber (with no comment why). At about £4 each I didn’t return them, but a phone call revealed they didn’t have leather in stock or knew when or if any would be delivered. They both promote the Rubber as better seals. Diff not back in the car yet, but I hope I don’t have the same problem as Andy. What’s best guys, Leather or Rubber? Mike
  12. Thanks Alan. It’s not damage to the locking pins I want to protect, but the constant rattle I get from my pins when the hood is down and I don’t have the cover on......and yes I can hear it over the exhaust note. Mike
  13. Matt, I have done a few foreign trips and other than little minor issues that can be sorted, it is amazing how well things go. However, I had a stub axle fail on the autoroute in France on the way to last year’s LeMan Classic. Being a 5 day trip did not give time to get spares and fit them. My salvation was breakdown cover with DAS through my TRR insurance. The best £40 for a years cover I have ever spent. Yes you deal with call centre staff who are used to breakdowns where the caller has no idea what’s wrong and use a script to talk to you, but with perseverance and a laid back approach, you get a good service. My car was returned on a transporter 10 days later and I was able to jump in a fellow members car to get back to England. Don’t worry too much about what might go wrong and just ensure you have recovery if all else fails. Mike
  14. Thanks Rob. I have a rubber one which I ordered in error, thinking it was a leather seal. How did I Cock that up? I was surprised not to get any comments, so far, so thank you for taking the time to reply. I think I will get a leather one and give that a go, making sure I give it a good soak before fitting, as you suggest. Mike
  15. Needing to replace my front seal on my TR5 differential, I see I have a choice of leather or rubber. Both similar prices, so what’s the best? Anyone got any views please. Thanks Mike
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