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About Aldpilot

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR5 1968
    Mercedes 350SL 1972
    Jaguar XF Sportbrake 2013
    Jaguar XK8 2005

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  1. Hi folks. I bit the bullet and ended up paying £91.80 for a twin cable. It is now fitted and working. Did it last week before the really cold weather hit. Chris, thanks for the info and perhaps I will have a go at repairing the old set up. I will wait until warmer weather though. Apparently a Humber Sceptre has a twin choke cable too, but I didn’t manage to find one of those. Another job done. Thanks for all your comments/ideas. Mike
  2. Thanks Andrew. That was the answer and if only I had thought of it before taking it apart. Never mind, it keeps me busy. Mike
  3. Thanks guys. I have taken the old twin cable off (boy it was fiddly to remove) and the cable to the Metering Unit had snapped at the knob end. I was ahead of everyone’s comments on the cost saving, by using a single cable arrangement to the MU. Thanks for the idea of fitting a stand alone cable for fast idle. Not anal enough to want originality (well not at £100), although I do try to keep as much as possible along standard lines. Whatever I do, I am not looking forward to the job of reattaching cables and feeding through the bulk head. All part of the fun of our cars. Mike
  4. The galling part about it is a single throttle cable is only £10.36. I am stuck having to pay £90. So be it. Mike
  5. Why are replacement choke cables so expensive? I think I need a new one as the cable to the MU is not operating and has come adrift from the cockpit knob. Before I take it apart to see if I can fix it, I thought get a new one, in case that is the easy answer. Rimmers £102, Moss £86 but out of stock and Robsport £90. Anyone know if there are any cheaper options out there or do I just have to bite the bullet and pay up? Mike
  6. For the last 9 months the overdrive on my TR5 has been getting more and more inconsistent. It did not always engage when the column switch was thrown, but could engage at any time later and stayed in once set. It always disengaged when asked. As usual with these types of intermittent issues, I got various suggestions (but never the answer), with the most prolific being “is the gearbox oil level low?” After checking the power supply from the switch to the solenoid, there was nothing else for it but to remove the Gbox tunnel to get a good look. It was at this point that the overdrive inhibiting switch became visible. When I removed it the spring loaded round end looked worn. A call to Pete at Overdrive Supplies suggested swapping the switch with the reversing light switch (they are identical). This switch did not look worn and Eureka it fixed a long standing and annoying problem. Posted here to highlight something that no one had suggested to me. I hope it will help someone else in the future. Photo of the worn unit below. Part No BAU1074A from Rimmers at £7.44 Mike
  7. I occasionally have a similar issue when the throttle stop gets caught under my rubber over mat. Frightened the @#£& out of me the first time it happened. I now make sure the mat is pushed well into the footwell, but it has caught up once more when the mat moves.
  8. I replaced the front seal on my TR5 diff only yesterday. I tried to get a leather replacement, but an order for one from both Rimmer and Moss resulted in them sending rubber (with no comment why). At about £4 each I didn’t return them, but a phone call revealed they didn’t have leather in stock or knew when or if any would be delivered. They both promote the Rubber as better seals. Diff not back in the car yet, but I hope I don’t have the same problem as Andy. What’s best guys, Leather or Rubber? Mike
  9. Thanks Alan. It’s not damage to the locking pins I want to protect, but the constant rattle I get from my pins when the hood is down and I don’t have the cover on......and yes I can hear it over the exhaust note. Mike
  10. Matt, I have done a few foreign trips and other than little minor issues that can be sorted, it is amazing how well things go. However, I had a stub axle fail on the autoroute in France on the way to last year’s LeMan Classic. Being a 5 day trip did not give time to get spares and fit them. My salvation was breakdown cover with DAS through my TRR insurance. The best £40 for a years cover I have ever spent. Yes you deal with call centre staff who are used to breakdowns where the caller has no idea what’s wrong and use a script to talk to you, but with perseverance and a laid back approach, you get a good service. My car was returned on a transporter 10 days later and I was able to jump in a fellow members car to get back to England. Don’t worry too much about what might go wrong and just ensure you have recovery if all else fails. Mike
  11. Thanks Rob. I have a rubber one which I ordered in error, thinking it was a leather seal. How did I Cock that up? I was surprised not to get any comments, so far, so thank you for taking the time to reply. I think I will get a leather one and give that a go, making sure I give it a good soak before fitting, as you suggest. Mike
  12. Needing to replace my front seal on my TR5 differential, I see I have a choice of leather or rubber. Both similar prices, so what’s the best? Anyone got any views please. Thanks Mike
  13. Aldpilot

    Engine Noise.

    Hi Phil. I too have a similar noise and have had for the last couple of years on my TR5. Tappets were adjusted a week ago and although a couple were a bit tight the noise remains. I am working on sorting a diff leak and G/box leak with a non functioning overdrive at the moment, so my clicking/tapping noise is further down the to do list. Fiddling with things seems to be the norm with these lovely cars, but going out for a driving blast just puts a smile on my face, whenever I go out. The forum is a great place to get advice, sometimes the guys contradict each other a bit, but all have much more knowledge of the cars than me and are a great help. If I find out what is causing my noise, I will post here. Good luck sorting it. Mike
  14. I can recommend Marco’s product. I got one in February this year and it is a great addition for my car. If only my diff was not leaking!! Mike
  15. Aldpilot

    Diff seal

    Thanks John/Roger. Unfortunately, I have run the car with the breather clear for the last 6 months and it is still leaking (slowly getting worse). I feared changing the seal in situ would be a pain. Was proposing disconnecting drive shaft and removing back box of exhaust to give access. Think I have now found seal on Moss site, part no. 140337. If Diff has to come out I would want to recon it and change the side seals too. Hopefully it can be sorted without taking it out completely. Cleaned it up today, topped up with oil and went for a 30min blast and photo below is after I got back.
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