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About MikeF

  • Birthday June 11

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  • Location
    North Oxfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Austin A30 - wow!, (Non)Standard 10, 1/2 TR3A, Ford E93A, Morris Minor, BMW M Series, Mk 4 and 1500 Spitfires, TR4

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  1. As said a similar key could work with a wiggle. The best wiggle is to fully insert key then retract it a fraction. Then push in and turn in one quick movement, you might need to experiment with the amount of retraction. IF the lock is old then this usually works. Then it's mixed feelings - relief that you're in, scary you could do it! Good luck,
  2. From what I recall... the criteria for crimping is gas tight, ie contact is so intimate oxygen , water vapour can not get in. Whether crimping or soldering is better is moot in my opinion as in real life it depends on technique. For sure soldering before crimping is not recommended as solder creeps under stress and this will eventually lead to failure of the crimp. Of course the duty cycle on our cars is not that onerous so the time to fail may be so long it is irrelevant which method was used. Mike
  3. I too used a hacksaw but first I drilled a hole and sawed down to it. This gives a stress relief
  4. Most of the time I just take care to fold the hood per the driver's manual , (meaning the windows are not folded and are protected inside the finished article) and never place anything on top of it in boot. For winter periods of storage I erect the hood, but don't fully tension it.
  5. Got a weird droning while driving about today and on lifting bonnet the cause was obvious. No rocker cover cap. Dunno why it went walkabout, Rocker cover is alloy one, Don't know supplier. If anybody can identify it and/or suggest where I could get a replacement that would be grand! (Its the 4 cylinder) Mike
  6. Correct: There is considerable discussion and some doubt as to the benefits or otherwise of biological additions to petrol/diesel. The numbers can be made for or against. eg Ethanol derived from corn (maize) has been shown to use more energy to make it than it generates on one hand to 1.4x more on the other. So called second generation ethanol derived from plant waste is much better in this respect. Googling keywords "ethanol petrol environment" will produce a whole load of confusing reports. to occupy you if we get another lockdown. Diesel is more confusing still eg eg 50% of the palm oil i
  7. The Moss slosh lasted 15 years in my tank before the fuel in the pump bowl went brownish and my in line filter cluttering with debris. Treating the tank and applying the Moss was simple enough - just tedious. It may be different now but mostly I remember the fumes from the sealant were quite noxious. You must use in open air. Mike
  8. Over in the small chassis TRiumph discussion area there is much talk about fitting better seats same as here, usually MX-5 but also MGF. They appear to be as easy to fit. Anyone here fitted them. Intuitively if they go in Spitfire/Vitesse etc then they should fit in 4-5-6.
  9. My hood is incorrect - no elastic etc. It does have a pointless tag with a press stud thing which flaps about. The side piece is only approximately near the door glass so lets in a lot of wind roar but generally no water. [That comes from base of the door window which is at a slightly different angle to the screen leaving a gap]
  10. HI I have just been through this with my own 4. I had sealed my garage to make it air tight for dehumidifier and it then stank of petrol. You could see the fumes coming down out of the vent pipe and leaks from pump bowl and so on Long story short. I got an ally tank and changed all the hoses.. You don't need a vent pipe. Look at the inside of your fuel tank cap. IS there a little hole 1.5mm /60thou in the sprung sealing disc? This is the vent for late TR4 and subsequent models. If there isn't one then you still have an original early car cap and you know what to do! You may fin
  11. Not knowing it was difficult to get I just rocked up to Halfords and bought some. Mind there wasn't much left. M
  12. The video shows the resulting bond is a braze, with a very clever preparatory process to get temperatures down and not need protective atmosphere. It appeals to me for its ingenuity. It's very neat. That's the theory. In practice the key would be to get the first oxide bonding done and then satisfactorily working through the oxide in bond area with the pick to form an intermetallic. Probably OK for seams on flat surfaces as demonstrated , concern would be working on irregular surfaces. - might need some practice! If ultimate strength is not an issue you can do somethin
  13. …………….For anything not transparent to UV light, you only cure the visible line,...………... Standard glue for repairing surf boards. Guess because they get plenty of access to sun --------------------- Some products will cure completely once initiated, speed of this later cure dependent on temperature Mike
  14. Watched the video. The stuff dentists use is a development originally by ICI from the UV using blue light. Quite a technical achievement as there is much less energy available to kick the cure off. The implication that the demo glue in the video demonstration is the same grade/performance as a dental product needs to be verified, it's unlikely. . I can see the attraction of the delayed till started rapid cure, but conventional cyanoacrylates are pretty fast. You can speed them up even more by wiping the surfaces to be bonded with an accelerator. YOu can buy this or just use alcohol
  15. In 2006 I glooped my tank, but now need to replace as can be seen from picture .I now looking for recommendations on current best tank/supplier. Car is 1962 TR4. THis may be a silly question: Aluminum is one of the metals susceptible to degradation by ethanol fuels. Where does that leave ally tanks?
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