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MikeF

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About MikeF

  • Birthday June 11

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  • Website URL
    http://www,chrisfennerfund.org
  • ICQ
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  • Skype
    mike.fenner

Profile Information

  • Location
    North Oxfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Austin A30 - wow!, (Non)Standard 10, 1/2 TR3A, Ford E93A, Morris Minor, BMW M Series, Mk 4 and 1500 Spitfires, TR4

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  1. The temp and fuel gauges work off a common supply which is from the voltage limiter in the top right of drivers footwell. Behind carpet So before changing gauges you should check the supply from that isnot displaced and that there are volts coming out of the unit.. Mike
  2. The Moss catalogue has a quite informative section on TR 4 road springs, a d does address the driver side droop ( from a spring point of view). It's interesting and could be a useful read for you Mike
  3. Postscript Thk s for all the replies and comments. HEre is what I did I remeasured the garage and confirmed that a carcoon etc wouldn't be practical (taking into account the angled access to garage)).So I sealed it and bought a Meaco DD8L Zambezi Dessicant Dehumidifier which has a built in clock if needed. This is suitable for a 3 bed house. I reasoned that the duty cycle in a garage would not overstress it. I also bought a meter as it was on offer for a few quid. I am not sure I trust it as it differs from the Zambezi by small or large amounts higher or lower. Another problem is the coded instructions, which I nearly understand - I think.Sealing the garage has resulted in a strong smell of unleaded - the connection fuel pipe to tank needed tightening, the smell is much reduced, but still there with no visible leak. Another item on my to do list. Question: Anyone know the operating principle of these meters? Could the fumes be interfering in the measuring process. (I know from a past life that organics can upset oxygen measurements.) As a ps: years ago I was passenger on a dike across what was then called the Zuider Zee. It was a foggy day so the view ahead faded into grey. To the left was grey water which faded into a grey sky and to the right the land similarly faded, but close to was a field then another field then a house surrounded by trees and then repeat. And repeat. The engine was gently humming and the wheels were going bumpity bump pause bumpity bump pause on the road. Very hypnotic and disorientating. The only thing of interest was the occasional gull perched on a pole. After some time I awoke from a doze to find that we were slowing to a halt. My driver had also fallen into a trance!
  4. Read a lot of stuff here about car tents, dehumidifiers, sealed garages, well ventilated garages etc. The geography of my garage and contents (it has to double as a shed and storage area and is long and narrow) doesn't leave room for access with a tent. So I am looking at a dehumidifier. Several members have advocated this, and have set up a dehumidifier with an on off time switch. (Not suitable for all dehumidifiers). I assume on grounds of economy, which seems reasonable. The dehumidifier suppliers make a case for leaving them on 24/7 as they come on and off according to RH. So though they are "on" they are not necessarily running. Makes sense as well. So I am looking for advise please. Mike
  5. I fitted one of the Rock Auto valves. Works fine. Aso fitted a silicone hose. That fits if warmed as stated, but the increase in the outside diameter requires larger hose clips Mike
  6. MikeF

    H6 Carb leak

    That's clear, thank you Mike
  7. MikeF

    More wiper woes

    thanks Roger I'll give it a bash! Plenty of opportunities coming up I think
  8. MikeF

    H6 Carb leak

    I have petrol leaking from the bottom of my NO 1 SU 878 H6 carb. It appears to be coming from the bottom of the bolt assembly holding dashpot next to the jet. (this is the lowest point of the carb so may originate elsewhere. The leak drips till the dashpot is empty, the engine does not need to be running. Priming the carbs by hand at the pump refills the pot which cuts off effectively when full. The bolt is tight. I think I need to replace the washers in the assembly - or do I? Can this job be done without removing carb? Any tips thought welcome! Mike
  9. MikeF

    More wiper woes

    Roger, Sorry for late response, been "off air" for a while. For the courtesy of a reply: I can't answer your question because the wipers didn't. They mostly whirred and twitched a bit with minimal back and forth, Soon after I replaced the original motor with a TR6 type as my original failed. I was tempeted by the idea of two speeds and was optimistic that I would solve the poor wiping performance as I had got them sweeping back and forth properly. In practice there is no real benefit in the higher speed as the wiping performance is poor at any speed. I have tried several types of blade, with no perceptible benefit. If anyone has any advice in the area would be good to hear it. Changing the motors was a relatively simple job. Puzzling the wiring from motor to autojumble switch was harder. Mike
  10. Ethanol absorbs water and then hydrolyses to acid. Two dissimilar metals [in contact] in an acid/aqueous solution will result in the more reactive one [such as aluminium with steel] will galvanically corrode. The "anti-ethanol" additives are supposed to neutralise the acid. All metals tarnish, even shiny ones like stainless steel and the tarnish, effectively a ceramic, can act as a protective layer. WE are used to the brown appearance of copper, that is tarnish , really clean copper is an attractive pink. Acids can remove the tarnish - eg flux in soldering -- but I would think any acid in petrol will only be a weak organic and very dilute at that and so not effect copper components. The two main exceptions to this are gold which doesn't do anything - ever - and iron which rusts. Because iron/steel is so common we tend to think it is representative of all metals but actually it is completely untypical. Rust is a complex substance more like a sponge which holds water and air against the iron which reacts continuously. This why iron component s corrode through whereas other metals mostly do not. Having said all that I only use Esso /Tesco higher octane petrol in my car and only put small amounts of fuel in tank to ensure petrol is always relatively fresh through rapid turnover. Mike
  11. I have them on my '4, fitted to Minilookalites and am delighted. Now had them a few hundred miles. The ride, handling, cornering and stability under breaking etc are all much improved compared to the Fuldas I had before. [Prior to that I had the Fuldas on wires and changing to Minilookalikes gave a distinct improvement in steering precision and handling. Mind the wires were pretty knackered and wouldn't stay true which is why I changed them]. MIke
  12. MikeF

    More wiper woes

    Hmm...I suspect by now the rack has already been turned and probably more than once. My wipers were totally useless on purchase. I replaced the rack and replaced the wheelboxes with tr6 types being a bit beefier. They now do a full sweep and park properly no freeplay. But are still pretty useless. Rain-X works better. Mike
  13. Others may have more experience/ knowledge than me, but my tuppence worth meanwhile.. Depends what your drive is made of - tarmac, concrete, (including "brick" shapes) etc Whatever it is I don't think there is a quick esay solution. On concrete, if the stains are old the oil will have permeated into the concrete along with the black particulates and stuff. You won't get it out by surface applications of detergent. I have found Jizer to be moderately effective, especially if you can leave it a while. If the drive is plain concrete an application of cement powder has a reasonably good cosmetic effect.. Sprinkle on and brush off, Drive needs to be dry. Be careful of over zealous use of pressure washer you can damage the surface making the surface more porous. IF tarmac then you need to be careful with Jizer and similar stuff as they don't differentiate well between oil and drive. Jizer is an excellent paintbrush cleaner if you have some left over. Good luck. Mike
  14. HO! Could you come and give my window lifts a serious look please? Alternatively do your looks work over Skype? QUite possibly the break in your wire is at a stress point, ie just inside the insulation near the connector, you could try taking an inch or so off and soldering [in a new length] and connector. Or just wrap your new wire into the loom, that would make a fix into a repair Mike
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