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david c

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About david c

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  • Location
    Maldon Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    Herald 1200 convertable
    Spitfire MK4
    TR4A
    International Harvester 434

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  1. Right I have taken Robs advise and tried to run this fan without the relay ie straight from the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the pos. line. Result just the same, less than a second running and the fuse pops. Conclusion the fan is useless, I should dump it. I started this mini project because I had this fan laying about in a box and thought why not, nothing much better to do. Now I have nice shiny new wiring in place and no fan, I think what I'll do is keep an eye open for another more up to date fan. Can't win 'em all, thanks for all your help. Kind regards David
  2. Okay that makes sense.......even to me, probably explains why the numbers are printed so small that you can't read them, or is that just me? As for the 5 pin relay that just makes my brain hurt.
  3. Graham, Tom and Tony thank you all for your wiring diagrams, I am really very grateful for your help and interest. ( I note some disagreement on terminal 85?) I am sure if I knew more about the subject there would be a perfectly rational explanation. I confess I had the day off today, the sun was shining and I had a good use for all the old cans of used engine oil, the tractor shed now looks a treat. Back on the case tomorrow. I intend to try a simple test first as suggested by Rob. Thanks again David
  4. Good plan I'll try that in the morning, thank you David
  5. Thanks Rob I'ts very kind of you to take the time, I'll make a little shopping list and order a couple of those and some normal blade fuses to replace the ones I've blown +a little stock. Rather more sensible than using the wiring as a fuse. I wish I understood more about electrics. Kind regards david
  6. Okay i'll skip that option then
  7. Hmmm not as easy as I thought, I cant find a "T" type fuse in the bladed format. a little easier to find in the ceramic cartridge "tube" type fuse as Rob has suggested, but I note the one with the link is rated 240 volt is that important or is it just the amps I need to get right? I expect the motor once had a little silver sticker on it with details of "stuff" but I think that has long gone. As it was once on the car I can only assume it has worked at some time in the past. Now for a very silly question whats the worst thing that is likely to happen if I don't use a fuse?..............in this instance. David
  8. Hello Rob Thankyou for your comments, the fan is a rather old warrior and I don't have any documentation for it. When I reassembled it I tested it in a very crude way simply touched one wire to pos. and the other to neg. of a spare battery, It worked a treat! I will have a look on the interweb for surge resistant fuses. Thanks again David
  9. I really should know better........... Last week I refitted the electric cooling fan that was fitted to the radiator that came with the car when I bought it many years ago. I got bored on afternoon took it to bits cleaned up the brushes, commutator and stuff put it all back together tested it painted it made up some brackets and bolted the thing back in the car......smashing. Today I decided to have a go at wiring it up, I printed off a diagram from the interweb, the diagram was for a mini but I assumed it would be much the same as a TR after all a fan is a fan and 60's electrics must all be similar? To cut a long story sideways despite what I think is following the diagram I keep blowing fuses, the 30 amp fuse at least lasted long enough for me to hear the fan start then blew. There are two areas I am not too clear about. Relay connection 86 should go to a + 12v supply that runs when the key is in acc. position but not in start? any suggestions please? Trying to run on both a thermo switch and a manual override switch, Two questions here please, does it make any difference which terminal on the thermo switch has live and which goes to earth? I have fitted a piggyback connector to term.85 and the wires for both the Thermo switch and the manual switch are connected to that, is that okay? Terminal 30 is wired direct to the starter solenoid via a 30amp fuse.Terminal 87 is wired direct to the fan. Sorry to witter on but would really appreciate the answer, i'm running out of fuses! Best regards David
  10. Thank you Roger, If we get to see some decent weather I will certainly do as you suggest. David
  11. So having taken Stuarts advise I have just finished replacing the old hubs with shiny new ones and the old UJ's with new. What a filthy 'orible job, it took half an hour just to clean up the tools and I now need to buy another box of those very fetching blue gloves. having said all that I have learned a lot. One. Wacking the shafts with a big hammer is a surprisingly effective way of getting the UJ's out. Two. Getting the little bu**ers back in is a blinking nightmare (except in the new hubs where they slipped in a treat without having to use a long tube on the vice handle) Three. Have a good supply of rags and the paper towel handy for the rubber ware fitting and forget about trying to finesse them on, brute force and a stout pair of pliers! ( I was fortunate the old rubbers were in good serviceable condition, from what I have read the new ones would't take the stresses) Four. If it's not going well walk away have a nice cup off tea or coffee calm down and when you go back in it will "probably" go a lot better. Five. The removal and refitting spanner work is the easy bit. Think again if you think you can do this in a couple of days, with my skill levels anyway in took four days! Thanks all for your advise........as always David
  12. Thank you gents for your replies, very helpful. Looks like a bit of a minefield out there with units "when available" at hugely different prices, this is going to take some phone calls to sort out whats what.
  13. Well that's all food for thought, I have had a look today and had hoped to find an area of bright metal that I could pin the squeak down too, no such luck, bu**er. So it's down to replacing both sides, I'm a little concerned about the reports of reconditioned units failing after only very low mileage so I suspect I'm going to have to look at the newly manufactured or uprated units. at an arm and a leg each. unless anyone one can PM me a reputable source of supply for reconditioned. In the mean time I'll keep off the A12.
  14. I think that is a good starting point, as a matter of interest what exactly was the cause of Mikes "inconvenience".
  15. Smashing evening yesterday and a good drive out to my local club meet, only spoiled by a slight squeak from nearside rear wheel, to start with had to turn the music down to hear it (is it me or does ones hearing improve significantly when driving a classic) by the end of my journey home the noise was rather more pronounced. By now I am getting worried is the wheel about to fall off, so it's slowly slowly home for the last ten miles. My question is what could the noise be? it's not a rumble it is a high pitched regular squeak. I jacked the back up this afternoon and wiggled the wheel side to side and top to bottom and there is a little "play" but I think that may be worn a worn hub? Sorry to ramble David
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