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david c

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About david c

  • Birthday 11/24/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maldon Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    Herald 1200 convertable
    Spitfire MK4
    TR4A
    International Harvester 434

Recent Profile Visitors

311 profile views
  1. david c

    Water Pump and narrow belt kit

    Thanks Walt For the time being I have decided to re fit the original wide belt, and strap / wire or fix a spare in the ready to use position and if the fitted belt does break I will just cut it off, as has been mentioned before on this forum these wide belts are very durable and the chances of it wearing / fraying away without being noticed are..............slim? Next winter I may well fit a narrow belt together with an alternator and a water pump that I can dismantle (to fit the narrow belt pulley). Right now I will concentrate on getting the engine back in the car. Thanks David
  2. david c

    Water Pump and narrow belt kit

    Walt that sounds really romantic, far more interesting than loosing a belt on the A13 just outside Pitsea in the dark and the rain, believe me the lousy weather was the least of my worries. Fortunately this wasn't in a TR4a it was a Ford Corsair and it was................. a year or two back. The upshot is that have put the old standard kit back on for now and will look at swapping it over when it's a little warmer outside. Thanks all David
  3. david c

    Water Pump and narrow belt kit

    It's starting to look like this is another bit of kit that can join the rather too long Indian timing chain in the box of bits that "I thought would be a good idea" The pump is indeed one of the pressed on jobbies so I would need to buy a new pump. (they don't tell you this when you buy the kit) The old pump seems to work just fine, so until it starts to play up I will simply put it all back together as I found it. Further reading indicates that I can not run the original fan with this kit as I was planning to do ( together with the electric fan). so it seems to me the simplest thing is to go back to the original wide belt and strap a spare belt on the timing chain cover.........as I had previously done. after all getting a knackered belt off can be done with a sharp knife rather than taking apart other bits carefully as I did when striping the engine. Unless some one knows better................. Thanks David
  4. Before I break something. While taking the engine out for a much needed "sort out" I found simply getting the fan belt off took a silly amount of time and decided that if I ever had to do it at the side of the road it would be an absolute moose. So I decided to invest in a narrow belt conversion kit, how hard can it be to change a few pulleys? it seems in my case very hard indeed. Dynamo pulley, simple. Water pump pulley impossible! according to the WSM undo and remove the bolt / washer and pull off the pulley, now my pump does not have said bolt / washer. Have I drawn the short straw and ended up with one of the Unipart pumps that have the pulley pressed on / non removable. The three legged puller does not seem to have any effect. I had planed to keep the old fan and also run the electric fan I fitted a few years back. So before I break something I thought I would ask. David
  5. david c

    Camshaft refitting

    Very little point in asking for advise if your not going to at least try and follow it, especially from someone like Mick who could probably put my engine back together before lunch and have it back in the car in time for tea.............running properly. unlike your father in laws Viva. Ah the days of scrapyards, many a happy saturday morning looking for "sporty bits" for my MK 2 Consul. David
  6. david c

    Camshaft refitting

    Your very kind Thank you Mick
  7. david c

    Paint

    I use Auto Paints Brighton the first minor paint repair I did on on my MK4 Spit they came up with a spot on match from a small sample of paint on a lump of filler that fell off, and used them ever since. Best regards David
  8. david c

    Camshaft refitting

    Thankyou both, that sets my mind at rest and even with my limited mechanical skills I can see how off center would induce a turning "moment"? Mick I seriously doubt my skills and tool kit would be up to the job of making the sort of measurements you quite rightly recommend, you mentioned this on my last post and I had taken note and will do what I can using the BASF method (British Arthritic S**ding Fingers). I would like to think the engineer that polished the crank would have told me if it was obviously out of true. Thanks again for all your help and advise....................I don't doubt I shall be back with more dumb questions. David
  9. david c

    Camshaft refitting

    So crankshaft back from the machine shop, no big dramas just a light polish to take of the spare big end bearing aluminium that had transferred to the crank, looked terrible to me but the engineer said not a big problem and no need to grind any more material away. It seemed like a good idea to get them to renew the little end bearings which the did in no time and no doubt a far better job than I could ever have done. So time to start putting it all back together, seems straightforward enough but I have a question of course. Having slid the camshaft carefully back in to place and bolted on the front end bearing thing it looks to me like the cam lobes don't line up exactly with the holes the cam followers drop in to, I know I probably should have looked more closely at what was what When I pulled it out............. Thanks David
  10. david c

    Timing chain

    Hello Malbaby It had crossed my mind....................and I'm pretty sure it will again. But at the moment I think I can do this, not quickly, but apart from the crank shaft stuff I have managed to change the pistons and liners a year or so back.My biggest problem I think will be to get the valve / ignition timing right but with some care. the workshop manual and some help from the forum I think it should be do able and it certainly keeps the little grey cells working. Thanks for your interest and best wishes to all in Aus. David
  11. david c

    Timing chain

    Crikey Mick if I go in and start asking for the parallel stuff they are going to think I know what I'm talking about, and nothing could be further from the truth....... I'll ask how they ensure that and let them tell me. I will try the turn by hand crank test but heaven only knows what I would do if it does turn out to be "bent". Roger I understand the logic of not removing the crank scroll, lot easier to take off than put back on . so will go with the Christian Marks seal. (from the TR Shop). Thank you for your time and interest. David
  12. david c

    Timing chain

    A damn good clean is a good idea, not only to help the cooling but also I suspect it will make reassembly a rather nicer task. On the subject of rear oil seal I'm glad you mentioned that, of the two types available It seems one needs the crank to be machined, not the end of the world as I am having work done on it anyway. The other (no machining required) is a little more expensive, but needs a special tool to fit it? David
  13. david c

    Timing chain

    Now well outside my comfort zone. Removed the crankshaft today, one of the big end bearings is in a bit of a mess so I will have to have the whole thing reground and let them supply new new bearings to fit the reground crank,. while they are about it will get them to change the little end bushes as Mick suggests. I am now left with a still very heavy lump of block which if I can get in the back of the car I will take up to the machine shop as well and get refaced and I suppose while I'm about it I might just as well get the head skimmed. (in for a penny etc.) Am I missing anything, Is there anything else I should consider while I have the engine out and in hundreds of bits in dozens of bags. Thanks for all your help and patience, I am sure I will be making a pest of myself when It comes to putting all back together again. David
  14. david c

    Timing chain

    Thanks Rob I do have a lot of oil about, will clean up better and try the same trick again. Stuart The pins turn easily in both the little end and in the pistons, they certainly don't bind. my original "guess" was that the little end bushes that I did not change last time had to be a little worn and was / am quite prepared to replace them Will look at the chain test trick in the WSM tomorrow, I can see the logic in that. Once the chain is off it will be easier to inspect the teeth. Not resorted to chemicals .......................yet, so I will put it down to a lack of experience and a cheep gauge. Thanks David
  15. david c

    Timing chain

    So The engine is out.............on it's own. I know I'm a wimp and I'll pay for it later. Nicely settled on it's stand. Now I have the lump in front of me I am starting to wonder if my "diagnosis" was right. I thought the orible noise from it came from the little end bushes rattling about or rather the gudgeon pin rattling about in the bushes. Now I'm not so sure, The bushes are still a good tight fit in the con rods and the pins "seem" a nice fit in them. The liners, big end bearings, pistons gudgeons and rings are less than 500 miles old but I didn't change the little ends. Now I am not at all sure I need / needed to. Now the questions. How tight a fit should the pins be in the bushes, I can stand the pins square on top of the con rod bushes and they gently slide in would that be about right? How can I tell if the timing chain / tensioner is warn? The teeth look to my inexperienced eye look fine, can I measure the deflection like a fan belt? How come I can't get my measuring thingy to give the same measurement twice. I am sure I'll be back with more dumb questions later, but answers the the above would be great for starters. David
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