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david c

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About david c

  • Birthday 11/24/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maldon Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    Herald 1200 convertable
    Spitfire MK4
    TR4A
    International Harvester 434

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  1. I'll bear that in mind Stuart, once I've fitted the new rear springs. Am I right in thinking I may need to adjust the camber as well? Thank you David
  2. Well what a difference new springs make! looks like a proper car now, still not perfectly level but now less than 1/2" out which I am very happy with. The whole front end of the car must be 2" higher.............I can even get a trolley jack under the chassis. Absolute pig of a job but well worthwhile, so worthwhile in fact that I have moved on the the back end, I can see no reason why the rear springs should be any less tired than the front. Worth noting the new springs have one extra coil in the same overall length, Just for my own curiosity I rigged up a test rig to test the old springs one against the other, (proper engineers should look away now) I took an 8' length of 4" x 2" stuck one end between a pile of pallets and marked the "hinge" point, placed the spring on the floor and laid the timber on top of it also marking the spring position on both the floor and the timber, at the outboard end of the timber I stood an old heavy cast iron flatiron and marked the deflection on the side of a cardboard box. even with such a relatively light weight the difference between the two springs was obvious about a 1/4" of and inch. If I had thought about it I could have / should have done the same with the new springs. Thanks every on for your help and advise with this one, with a bit of luck the back end should be simpler.
  3. So it's not those monster road trains you have then it's blinking 4x4's as far as the UK following the trend....that train has already left the station. I think 320's should be about right, if Triumph fitted 350 on a TR6 with it's heavier engine......well I assume it was heavier. The front end of the chassis is in fairly good nick considering the poor old bu--er is over 50 years old thanks to Triumphs self lubricating chassis arrangement. The back end, well that's another story isn't it. Should have the whole lot back together by Friday, and hope all is resolved, will post the results.
  4. Okay Malbaby, got that and will only fit "if required to the top". Thanks Pete, that makes sense. I will get to the bottom of this new springs should arrive tomorrow I will fit them and see where I go from there. David
  5. Complicated business this suspension malarkey isn't it? I too believe the new springs to be 320lbs, Rimmers don't give details! As to the weight of spacers I am sure it's not a good idea to add to unsprung weight can a little thing like an overgrown aluminium washer really make any difference? Thanks for all your help David
  6. Hello Chris Yes one inch does seem like quite a lot, I assembled the suspension myself, so that's one area to check. So far as chassis straightness is concerned I can see no particular / obvious reason why it should not be, so I'm going to leave that area ............for the time being and concentrate on suspension bits. if push come to shove I'll put in thin spacers top and bottom of the coil spring? Thanks David
  7. Hello Rockie I have now taken off the other front spring and too my great disapointment found they are both the same length, I understand that is not the whole story as Malbaby says the only way to be sure is to have them both tested........but in my usual "gung ho" style I have ordered a new front set, easier than finding a suspension tester locally and probably not that much more expensive. I'll put the whole lot back together again and see where I go from there (taking measurements at both the front and back of the car.) It would be nice to think I could get the car level by adding a spacer...........to the rear trailing arm, I am not enjoying the drama of removing / refitting the front springs at all. I can only assume your Australian roads are rather better than our very tired tarmac, the idea of a firmer ride is not a pleasant prospect in this neck of the woods. David
  8. Thank you Peter, that's cleared up one mystery and a little extra ground clearance would do no harm. Malbaby I had not considered the rear springs might affect the front end. I think for now I will concentrate on the front springs and see what effect that has. Thanks both for your help and advise. David
  9. Now the weather has gone all pants again I have decided to try and sort out my slightly lop sided car. The drivers side sits a good inch lower than the passenger side (even without me sitting in it) So In my mind the spring / springs are tired, I took off the offending spring this afternoon and had a measure 10.250" . I have looked at the various options available and considered the use the car gets and have decided that straight forward "standard" springs is what I need, I'm not in to racing or rallying I'm just happy to get where I'm going.....unless any one can offer a compelling reason to fit uprated springs? Will I get more ground clearance? will I get a very hard ride? Will I be able to shoot round corners like a Mini Cooper? Whilst dismantling the bits I read in both Haynes and the WSM about removing the bump stop and it's various brackets, Well search as I might I cant find any bump stops, should I? I fitted all new poly bushes and rubber bits some two years ago during original rebuild and they look just fine. I will obviously be replacing both springs. Thanks in advance for all any advise David
  10. Look I'm no expert, many will testify to that so please ignore if this is a stupid suggestion............but you do have the timing right / not 180 degrees out? pointer and little hole line up either way but only when it's right will the rotor arm point at number one plug....I think. I will probably be back tomorrow, getting alarmingly close to restarting my own engine after a major rebuild! Good luck David
  11. Thanks Walt For the time being I have decided to re fit the original wide belt, and strap / wire or fix a spare in the ready to use position and if the fitted belt does break I will just cut it off, as has been mentioned before on this forum these wide belts are very durable and the chances of it wearing / fraying away without being noticed are..............slim? Next winter I may well fit a narrow belt together with an alternator and a water pump that I can dismantle (to fit the narrow belt pulley). Right now I will concentrate on getting the engine back in the car. Thanks David
  12. Walt that sounds really romantic, far more interesting than loosing a belt on the A13 just outside Pitsea in the dark and the rain, believe me the lousy weather was the least of my worries. Fortunately this wasn't in a TR4a it was a Ford Corsair and it was................. a year or two back. The upshot is that have put the old standard kit back on for now and will look at swapping it over when it's a little warmer outside. Thanks all David
  13. It's starting to look like this is another bit of kit that can join the rather too long Indian timing chain in the box of bits that "I thought would be a good idea" The pump is indeed one of the pressed on jobbies so I would need to buy a new pump. (they don't tell you this when you buy the kit) The old pump seems to work just fine, so until it starts to play up I will simply put it all back together as I found it. Further reading indicates that I can not run the original fan with this kit as I was planning to do ( together with the electric fan). so it seems to me the simplest thing is to go back to the original wide belt and strap a spare belt on the timing chain cover.........as I had previously done. after all getting a knackered belt off can be done with a sharp knife rather than taking apart other bits carefully as I did when striping the engine. Unless some one knows better................. Thanks David
  14. Before I break something. While taking the engine out for a much needed "sort out" I found simply getting the fan belt off took a silly amount of time and decided that if I ever had to do it at the side of the road it would be an absolute moose. So I decided to invest in a narrow belt conversion kit, how hard can it be to change a few pulleys? it seems in my case very hard indeed. Dynamo pulley, simple. Water pump pulley impossible! according to the WSM undo and remove the bolt / washer and pull off the pulley, now my pump does not have said bolt / washer. Have I drawn the short straw and ended up with one of the Unipart pumps that have the pulley pressed on / non removable. The three legged puller does not seem to have any effect. I had planed to keep the old fan and also run the electric fan I fitted a few years back. So before I break something I thought I would ask. David
  15. Very little point in asking for advise if your not going to at least try and follow it, especially from someone like Mick who could probably put my engine back together before lunch and have it back in the car in time for tea.............running properly. unlike your father in laws Viva. Ah the days of scrapyards, many a happy saturday morning looking for "sporty bits" for my MK 2 Consul. David
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