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david c

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About david c

  • Birthday 11/24/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Maldon Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    Herald 1200 convertable
    Spitfire MK4
    TR4A
    International Harvester 434

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  1. That's a nice way to look at it. Must say I have only driven it up and down the lane but it does seem to go very well for little Spit. Will look at Rimmers (got them on "speed click"
  2. Evening all. This is an odd request for which I am sorry. Having got my TR sorted to a point, well I'm happy with it, I have turned my attention to my Spitfire which I actually bought before the TR and sort of lost interest in when the TR arrived. Well I have learned a lot about "restoring" old Triumphs and one thing I have learned is that it is important to know what you have! to that end I have been trying to find out just what I have bought. This is where I am getting a little confused, I thought I had bought a mk4 but now I am not so sure, the very battered vin plate looks a bit odd one side pop riveted the other side screwed on the numbers indicate a 1972 UK built car FH43378 that agrees with the licence plate number, the trim number indicates a black interior which it has. The paint is stamped as 96 saphire blue.....to my mind the colour of the car is French Blue? which is odd as I believe this colour was not used until 1973. The engine number is YC67581HE this is where it gets very confusing from my research this engine number it would seem to refer to a 1500 Spitfire or rear wheel drive Dolomite 1500s I assume the engine was at some stage replaced? On the plus side the chassis looks very good and despite the odd bit of bodywork welding which looks to have been very well done it seems like a nice little car. should I be worried or just get on with it? Thanks all David
  3. Used to use this on the teak work on my boat, can't see a use for it on TRs. David
  4. david c

    Doors

    Thanks Mick that makes sense.
  5. david c

    Doors

    Back to bare metal inside and out, but not painted in epoxy primer, just standard grey primer..........like they used in the factory? reasoning the original primer would not have been epoxy (would it?) and that lasted 50 years, was planing on giving the top and bottom inside a spray over with some sort of underseal" as its quite clear that's where the rust strikes.
  6. david c

    Doors

    I have spent the last few weeks repairing / restoring a pair of TR 4 / 4A / 5 doors my guess is 4A as the original colour is / was Wedgewood blue,.its been interesting and really quite enjoyable even if in this weather and with the short cold days it has take rather longer than I expected. Anyway cut to the chase, now they are in a fine shade of battleship grey primer but I understand this is not good from a storage point of view, also I think a coat of gloss would show up any defects in my handiwork. Any suggestions as to what colour I should paint them to make it easier for any potential buyer to paint them what ever colour they need? Thankyou David
  7. Happy 70th David! Allan & Ron x

     

     

  8. Right I have taken Robs advise and tried to run this fan without the relay ie straight from the battery with a 30 amp fuse in the pos. line. Result just the same, less than a second running and the fuse pops. Conclusion the fan is useless, I should dump it. I started this mini project because I had this fan laying about in a box and thought why not, nothing much better to do. Now I have nice shiny new wiring in place and no fan, I think what I'll do is keep an eye open for another more up to date fan. Can't win 'em all, thanks for all your help. Kind regards David
  9. Okay that makes sense.......even to me, probably explains why the numbers are printed so small that you can't read them, or is that just me? As for the 5 pin relay that just makes my brain hurt.
  10. Graham, Tom and Tony thank you all for your wiring diagrams, I am really very grateful for your help and interest. ( I note some disagreement on terminal 85?) I am sure if I knew more about the subject there would be a perfectly rational explanation. I confess I had the day off today, the sun was shining and I had a good use for all the old cans of used engine oil, the tractor shed now looks a treat. Back on the case tomorrow. I intend to try a simple test first as suggested by Rob. Thanks again David
  11. Good plan I'll try that in the morning, thank you David
  12. Thanks Rob I'ts very kind of you to take the time, I'll make a little shopping list and order a couple of those and some normal blade fuses to replace the ones I've blown +a little stock. Rather more sensible than using the wiring as a fuse. I wish I understood more about electrics. Kind regards david
  13. Okay i'll skip that option then
  14. Hmmm not as easy as I thought, I cant find a "T" type fuse in the bladed format. a little easier to find in the ceramic cartridge "tube" type fuse as Rob has suggested, but I note the one with the link is rated 240 volt is that important or is it just the amps I need to get right? I expect the motor once had a little silver sticker on it with details of "stuff" but I think that has long gone. As it was once on the car I can only assume it has worked at some time in the past. Now for a very silly question whats the worst thing that is likely to happen if I don't use a fuse?..............in this instance. David
  15. Hello Rob Thankyou for your comments, the fan is a rather old warrior and I don't have any documentation for it. When I reassembled it I tested it in a very crude way simply touched one wire to pos. and the other to neg. of a spare battery, It worked a treat! I will have a look on the interweb for surge resistant fuses. Thanks again David
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