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david c

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About david c

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  • Location
    Maldon Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    Herald 1200 convertable
    Spitfire MK4
    International Harvester 434

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  1. Thank you Roger, If we get to see some decent weather I will certainly do as you suggest. David
  2. So having taken Stuarts advise I have just finished replacing the old hubs with shiny new ones and the old UJ's with new. What a filthy 'orible job, it took half an hour just to clean up the tools and I now need to buy another box of those very fetching blue gloves. having said all that I have learned a lot. One. Wacking the shafts with a big hammer is a surprisingly effective way of getting the UJ's out. Two. Getting the little bu**ers back in is a blinking nightmare (except in the new hubs where they slipped in a treat without having to use a long tube on the vice handle) Three. Have a good supply of rags and the paper towel handy for the rubber ware fitting and forget about trying to finesse them on, brute force and a stout pair of pliers! ( I was fortunate the old rubbers were in good serviceable condition, from what I have read the new ones would't take the stresses) Four. If it's not going well walk away have a nice cup off tea or coffee calm down and when you go back in it will "probably" go a lot better. Five. The removal and refitting spanner work is the easy bit. Think again if you think you can do this in a couple of days, with my skill levels anyway in took four days! Thanks all for your advise........as always David
  3. Thank you gents for your replies, very helpful. Looks like a bit of a minefield out there with units "when available" at hugely different prices, this is going to take some phone calls to sort out whats what.
  4. Well that's all food for thought, I have had a look today and had hoped to find an area of bright metal that I could pin the squeak down too, no such luck, bu**er. So it's down to replacing both sides, I'm a little concerned about the reports of reconditioned units failing after only very low mileage so I suspect I'm going to have to look at the newly manufactured or uprated units. at an arm and a leg each. unless anyone one can PM me a reputable source of supply for reconditioned. In the mean time I'll keep off the A12.
  5. I think that is a good starting point, as a matter of interest what exactly was the cause of Mikes "inconvenience".
  6. Smashing evening yesterday and a good drive out to my local club meet, only spoiled by a slight squeak from nearside rear wheel, to start with had to turn the music down to hear it (is it me or does ones hearing improve significantly when driving a classic) by the end of my journey home the noise was rather more pronounced. By now I am getting worried is the wheel about to fall off, so it's slowly slowly home for the last ten miles. My question is what could the noise be? it's not a rumble it is a high pitched regular squeak. I jacked the back up this afternoon and wiggled the wheel side to side and top to bottom and there is a little "play" but I think that may be worn a worn hub? Sorry to ramble David
  7. Thanks all The help I get from this forum is invaluable. I had a good look today at the clamps from top to bottom of the shaft, instantly obvious was the play on the "impact clamp" This tightened and a good half turn on all the other joints has cured the problem. Having said that and read all the other posts I am now considering the hacksaw mod! The idea that I could be wearing away the splines doesn't bear thinking about. As for the rather poor horn push, in the end I soldered a copper strip to the back of the unit in the fashion of the old Lucas push, works a treat now. Thanks again for all the help and advise David
  8. Thanks chaps I'll take another look at this tomorrow, something is moving somewhere and all the clamps are more or less accessible.
  9. Finely got round to fitting a shiny new steering wheel today, and I am puzzled "not for the first time" Old wheel off, new wheel on but an awful grating noise when I turn the wheel, the new boss grinds against the old steering wheel cowling, fiddled for ages trying to make it stop with a selection of washers to no effect. I was about to give up and refit the old wheel when for some reason I pulled on the wheel and hey presto the grating stopped. Further fiddling showed that the steering column moved "in and out" by about 5mm. Is that right? I have checked all the splines right down to the rack and they are all good and tight so I have to assume the movement is from within the rack it's self. As an aside the horn push arrangement on the new wheel seems a bit feeble compared with Mr Lucas's original, has anybody else had this problem? Thanks all David
  10. I'll bear that in mind Stuart, once I've fitted the new rear springs. Am I right in thinking I may need to adjust the camber as well? Thank you David
  11. Well what a difference new springs make! looks like a proper car now, still not perfectly level but now less than 1/2" out which I am very happy with. The whole front end of the car must be 2" higher.............I can even get a trolley jack under the chassis. Absolute pig of a job but well worthwhile, so worthwhile in fact that I have moved on the the back end, I can see no reason why the rear springs should be any less tired than the front. Worth noting the new springs have one extra coil in the same overall length, Just for my own curiosity I rigged up a test rig to test the old springs one against the other, (proper engineers should look away now) I took an 8' length of 4" x 2" stuck one end between a pile of pallets and marked the "hinge" point, placed the spring on the floor and laid the timber on top of it also marking the spring position on both the floor and the timber, at the outboard end of the timber I stood an old heavy cast iron flatiron and marked the deflection on the side of a cardboard box. even with such a relatively light weight the difference between the two springs was obvious about a 1/4" of and inch. If I had thought about it I could have / should have done the same with the new springs. Thanks every on for your help and advise with this one, with a bit of luck the back end should be simpler.
  12. So it's not those monster road trains you have then it's blinking 4x4's as far as the UK following the trend....that train has already left the station. I think 320's should be about right, if Triumph fitted 350 on a TR6 with it's heavier engine......well I assume it was heavier. The front end of the chassis is in fairly good nick considering the poor old bu--er is over 50 years old thanks to Triumphs self lubricating chassis arrangement. The back end, well that's another story isn't it. Should have the whole lot back together by Friday, and hope all is resolved, will post the results.
  13. Okay Malbaby, got that and will only fit "if required to the top". Thanks Pete, that makes sense. I will get to the bottom of this new springs should arrive tomorrow I will fit them and see where I go from there. David
  14. Complicated business this suspension malarkey isn't it? I too believe the new springs to be 320lbs, Rimmers don't give details! As to the weight of spacers I am sure it's not a good idea to add to unsprung weight can a little thing like an overgrown aluminium washer really make any difference? Thanks for all your help David
  15. Hello Chris Yes one inch does seem like quite a lot, I assembled the suspension myself, so that's one area to check. So far as chassis straightness is concerned I can see no particular / obvious reason why it should not be, so I'm going to leave that area ............for the time being and concentrate on suspension bits. if push come to shove I'll put in thin spacers top and bottom of the coil spring? Thanks David
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