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About oxf2

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    Oxford, UK.

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  1. The bracket for my apron stay has disintegrated. I couldn't find one at moss, trgb, revington nor ebay. Has anybody got a spare to sell me? Otherwise, I'll have to make one up myself.
  2. The David Bee thread is a really good link, I hadn't seen that. Thanks for pointing it out Peter. As for tools, I have certainly paid out on that front in the last few years, from a standing start. It would be nice if we could get a list of decent suppliers, although I see many of the trusty old names that made good gear when my father was a young man are now being bought out by less scrupulous manufacturers, meaning that you buy tools you think you can trust, that turn out to be made of very poor -- even dangerously poor -- materials. This is a sad state of affairs, and after a few bad e
  3. Made a start: http://nike-of-samothrace.net/t2n.html If anybody can think of more must-know information for absolute never-touched-a-spanner-in-their-lives noobs, then please say. And should anybody wonder why I'm doing this, it's because I wanted to see a sort of "Ten things you need to know before driving a TR2" resource, but couldn't find one.
  4. Question about the large mouth was with reference to TS2. It looks to me as if it might gape just that little bit taller than the average TR2: https://www.classicandsportscar.com/news/general-classic-car-news/historic-triumph-to-star-at-fairclough-hall-farm I saw MVC575 the other day and noticed it has an air intake grill I've never seen on any other TR. Seems like the air intake was something they were still playing around with back in the early days, which comes as no surprise since they were... the early days.
  5. Is the air intake mouth on that car a wee bit bigger than that of the production tr2?
  6. I think there is probably a number of different-but-similar ideas that really ought to be realised: My own idea of a basic do-and-don't for absolute noobs; a better manual, available online. Maybe even static or stickied such pages hosted here on the sub forum. Teri Ann has got a lot of really great information up, but I reckon her links pages are a bit higgledy piggledy, and not well adjusted for noobs. I say again though, just to be clear, Teri Ann has put a helluva lot of really great content up, much more than I'll ever do. It's hard knowing how another person is going to apprehe
  7. Has the TR register (or anybody else) made a guide for new and totally uninitiated sidescreen TR owners? Can anybody post a link to such a web page? I'm thinking of writing such a web page, but if somebody else has already done it, then I don't want to duplicate their work.
  8. +1 1) Clutch down, and hold it down until step 4 2) Put gear stick into second gear position 3) Put gear stick into reverse position 4) Clutch can then be released. Well worth trying.
  9. That's such a great TR2 John, well done
  10. Thanks very much to all for your replies
  11. Yikes, Castrol LM is discontinued. Has anybody any suggestions on which grease to buy now the venerable product is no more please?
  12. Here are a few pictures (jpegs, up to 2.6mb each) from Motor Sport magazine the month of the RAC Rally of 1954, won by a TR2: http://nike-of-samothrace.net/msp_y1954_m04.html
  13. Thanks again Bob, done that now. : "If the pipe is twisted when tightened then slack the pipe from the other end of the hose at the chassis. Then slack the big nut holding the hose to the chassis" That "big nut" defeated my spanner collection, which only goes up to three quarters of an inch. I reckon that nut needs a one inch spanner. I'll get on ebay then...
  14. Thank you Bob, that's all done now : "PS Do not lose the copper crush washer between hose and cylinder - It is there to create a seal between the two" I've got a tub of Heldite. Has worked a treat for sealing petrol leaks. Is it a good or bad idea to give the copper crush washer a quick Heldite bath before refitting it? Maybe brake fluid (dot4) attacks Heldite, I dunno...
  15. Thank you Peter! : "Remove master cyl filler cap,Fit a doubled over plastic bag over the filler cap hole and screw the filler cap back on - that should stop all the fluid draining out of the disconnected pipework. Slacken the flexible pipe from the cylinder (1/4 turn), Remove the bolt that holds the cylinder to the backplate, Remove the rigid pipe from the cylinder" Yep, thanks, done all that now. Your next step is to pull the cylinder through the backplate. Isn't the micram adjuster getting in the way though: So should I remove the micram adjuster and even the shoe
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