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About oxf2

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    Oxford, UK.
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  1. Here are a few pictures (jpegs, up to 2.6mb each) from Motor Sport magazine the month of the RAC Rally of 1954, won by a TR2: http://nike-of-samothrace.net/msp_y1954_m04.html
  2. Thanks again Bob, done that now. : "If the pipe is twisted when tightened then slack the pipe from the other end of the hose at the chassis. Then slack the big nut holding the hose to the chassis" That "big nut" defeated my spanner collection, which only goes up to three quarters of an inch. I reckon that nut needs a one inch spanner. I'll get on ebay then...
  3. Thank you Bob, that's all done now : "PS Do not lose the copper crush washer between hose and cylinder - It is there to create a seal between the two" I've got a tub of Heldite. Has worked a treat for sealing petrol leaks. Is it a good or bad idea to give the copper crush washer a quick Heldite bath before refitting it? Maybe brake fluid (dot4) attacks Heldite, I dunno...
  4. Thank you Peter! : "Remove master cyl filler cap,Fit a doubled over plastic bag over the filler cap hole and screw the filler cap back on - that should stop all the fluid draining out of the disconnected pipework. Slacken the flexible pipe from the cylinder (1/4 turn), Remove the bolt that holds the cylinder to the backplate, Remove the rigid pipe from the cylinder" Yep, thanks, done all that now. Your next step is to pull the cylinder through the backplate. Isn't the micram adjuster getting in the way though: So should I remove the micram adjuster and even the shoe
  5. My front left wheel cylinder is leaking fluid all over the brake shoes, so I'm replacing it: ... but as I've tried to show with the pictures, the brake pipe turns along with the nut, thus, I take it, stressing the pipe unduly. How do I stop the pipe turning with the nut?
  6. Have you got a link for the documentary you were watching John?
  7. Thank you Peter and Bob for your posts The instrument lights do work after all -- I hadn't pulled the panel light button on, doh! Thanks for the reminder Peter. (All the white letters on my dash buttons have worn off, causing me to forget what that top button was there for.) Yes I had spotted the loose nut on the steering column clamp, that's fixed now. Since it's not clear to me what this cable's for, I'll do some more research. I have a wiring diagram (below) from the old S-T service manual suggesting cable '19' or '29' might be the one. Well it obviously isn't cable 29, and
  8. Right you are Peter, the instrument lights do not work at night. Does the cable just need to be connected to any metal point on the dashboard?
  9. Hello all, I've a yellow and green cable hanging loose behind the dashboard--TR2, 1955, rhd. The fixed end of the cable goes into the rev counter (see photo). The other end is just hanging though. Please can somebody tell me what's the best point at which to attach the loose end?
  10. Ah yes, I've done that already Peter! And it's reassuring to read that owners are finding this mid-mounted plate holds well through the decades. Still, the thought of getting an original spec reg plate is appealing.
  11. Thanks again for this. The reg plates I have are non-original and are a rather weedy 3mm thick aluminium. There is already a crack forming around one of the bolt mount holes. I will replace the reg plates with some more robust ones. But how many mm thick were these registration plates back in the 50s?
  12. Dear Graham, Mick, Roger, James, Thank you for your speedy input there.
  13. Hello all, The bolts holding the top of my front registration plate to the centre of the bumper can't hold the plate steady, and this is compromising the strength of the metal around the small holes in the reg plate, through which the mounting bolts pass. Well, I want to shift the plate upwards so that the middle of the reg plate is level with the middle of the bumper, see this image for clarity: So, I want to know if any owners who have their reg plate centred like the plate in the black car have problems with reg plates flapping around? If so, are there any solutions?
  14. Thank you for all your replies! Rodbr, I've pm'd you
  15. Hello all, Time to get a replacement dynamo for my TR2's old Lucas C39. Moss sell the GEU3101 copy of the Lucas C40, but it's unbranded, which doesn't fill me with confidence. Has anybody fitted the GXE3101 unit, which is also a Lucas C40 replacement? Both Rimmer and Revington sell them. Rimmer describe it as being a Dynalite product, but Dynalite products are made by Powerlite, who say all Dynalites are alternators in disguise, and Revington is hardly glowing about the product: "Revington TR prefer to sell [... other products]". So... has anybody any experience of a good q
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