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DaveB66 last won the day on January 28

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  1. DaveB66

    MX5 seats

    Hi Andy Yes they do, you have to remove a lug at rear of the MX5 seat runners (angle grinder). You also take the MX5 seat belt fitting off as you have to continue using the original triumph mounts for your seat belts. At least this is how I fitted mine. Dave
  2. DaveB66

    MX5 seats

    Hi I have MK1 seats in my 6 and MK2 in the 4 and to my mind they are as comfortable as each other, so I really think that it's down to personal preference, and budget. Before we first did the RBRR my wife and co-driver gave me an ultimatum to fit some comfortable seats, despite having had the original seats recently rebuilt. Having had a MK1 MX5 we knew how comfortable they were and it was an easy choice when I found out they fitted TRs. Both of the cars have the TR Trader brackets and as Chris says earlier it's worthwhile using spacers to lift the seat base from the floor, try different heights and see what fits you best. Dave
  3. Hi Rich Are you looking for a twin spindle radio or is it a more modern DIN fitting? I think I may have a couple of 1970's twin spindle radios in the garage. Dave
  4. How have we come so far with this thread without anyone mentioning one of Tunnocks selection of biscuits, plain chocolate tea cakes have everything, dark chocolate for nibbling off, marshmallow for indulgence and biscuit to round it off. Dave
  5. Hi A trip through the Peak District using C roads to Edale, then a walk up onto Kinder Scout and hopefully finished off by eating fish and chips from Stoney Middleton watching the sun go down from Curbar Edge Dave
  6. Tim TR owners might not be using cars at the moment, or at least not publishing the photos! Others are not so bothered saw this rather nice Bentley in the local Coop yesterday. Dave
  7. Andy, I fitted my LEDS without taking the instruments out a bit of a fiddle but possible. The water temp and oil pressure are illuminated by a shared single bulb in between the two and the other two, fuel and amps are the same. For these I found it best to use bulbs with leds around the circumference rather than the ones with them only on the top. the attached photo shows the led between the fuel and amps. No such problems for the speedo and rev counter. I also used Duncan at Classic Car LEDs. Dave
  8. Hi Thanks once again for the help, most useful. I found out that the ammeter is working Ok but no power is getting from it to the ignition switch. I then decided to clean all the connections through from the battery to the ignition switch and i'm pleased to say that this has solved the problem, not sure how but it's all working now.
  9. Hi Thanks once again for the suggestions. I've been out and swopped the battery over for the one from the TR6, that I know is working, and the situation remains the same in the TR4. The one out of the 4 runs all of the circuits on the 6 and starts it OK. So I think I can now discount the battery. Came in for a cup of tea, it's bitterly cold here today, before going out to tackle the ammeter.
  10. Thanks once again. Marco - the voltage across the A terminal of the regulator is 12.1v Chris - I'll tackle the ammeter when I can get time in the garage. It probably needs a good clean as my 4 is an early one (mid Jan 62) and still has it's original long needle gauges, also it's next to the speedo so should be reasonably accessible. Dave
  11. Hi Thanks for all the various suggestions. I've been out and done some checking with my multimeter on the under bonnet circuits. The battery has a good 12.8volts and this remains the same across the earth point on the body and the end of the feed to the solenoid. There's a slight drop to 12.1v across the fuses and similar from the voltage regulator outputs, it's still running on a dynamo. I think that the next step is to get at the wiring behind the dashboard
  12. Thanks, should have said that nothing electrical is working, lights, wipers, washer etc, including the hazards which don't run through the ignition switch.. My 4 does have remote starter solenoid and it doesn't work either, although it did.
  13. Hi Parked up my 4 last week after a good run and when I came to try to start it a couple of days ago the ignition light came on and then went off as I turned the ignition switch and has remained off since then. The battery is only a couple of months old and has a full charge and the terminals are tight, I've checked all the fuses and they're all ok, but replaced them with new. The connections to the starter motor are good and there are no obvious disconnected wires under the bonnet. The loom is old (?original) with various modern additions adding in relays for lights, electric fan and wiper/washers. Any ideas where and what to check before I begin the laborious task of checking through the loom. Dave
  14. Hi The Ordnance Survey publish a map of Roman Britain (£6.25), including roads and is a great starting place for anyone wishing to trace them today. Dave
  15. Hi - I've fitted a Phoenix 6-3-1 manifold without any heat protection last year and no problems with it, including playing in the Alps at the end of last summer and long blast on the Autobahns at speeds well over the UK limit.
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