Steves_TR6

Hi Marco yes the calipers were for a petrol landcruiser of about that vintage they fit straight on apart from the need for a slight trim of the backplate can’t measure the pistons, or weigh them, as they’re on my car ! steve

And for the calipers her is a screenshot of my original order from brakesint.co.uk

If you have the same toyota brakes that i have then this is the pattern, with various manuf. part numbers !

I think i bought mine from classicalfa website, was the cheapest at the time, few years ago steve

Hi Nigel i see your point, i’ll try to dig out the ‘research’ that i based this upon, was a few years ago now steve here’s some interesting perspective, not sure it’s the same as i found previously but similar. https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5c6dec53b10f25d4edf0b3f7/t/5c6ee9b815fcc037d1732d42/1550772664859/Selecting+Brake+Fluid.pdf

My tr6 has had silicone fluid in the brake and clutch systems for 20 years approx. when i replaced the calipers i considered going to dot4, as it is less compressible, but decided to stay with Automec dot5 all has been well for 10K spirited miles steve

Great to hear your health is progressing in the right direction Andrew, and love the pics of the CB I could drop by on the superlight one day and compare maybe ? steve

Glad to hear the problem was sorted and the TR community pulled together to help. this builds my confidence to take my TR6 down to Denia next year, maybe ! steve

Interesting thread! i have the same Racetorations catch tank and also get some ‘gunge’ in it which i coean out periodically, maybe anually..... steve

I think the 3ohm coil is the correct one Mark the 1.5 ohm coil sounds like a ballast coil to me. in a ballast system the coil sees about 9v when the engine is running, and the full 12v only when the engine is cranking. the idea is to boost spark power for starting, esp cold starting. without a ballast a 1.5ohm coil will be dissapating a lot of heat, and won’t last long. for out low use cars this might actually be ok!, but its not right. personally i’d go for a quality 3ohm from bosch or another reputable make. steve

I had a very good experience with a ‘stormforce’ cover from cover-zone my tr6 lived on my drive for 6 years, from 2012 to 2018 when i made space in the garage ! in 2012 i bought a ‘monsoon’ cover made by cover-zone but this failed after about 18 months. i called cover-zone and they asked for photos, and promptly offered me another ‘monsoon’ for free or an upgrade to ‘stormforce’ for a very modest cost. i went with the upgrade and it lasted until 2018 when the TR went to retire in luxury in the garage. i had no issues with ‘chafing’ or anything else really, hence the Stormforce gets a thumbs up from me. steve

Hi Tim there are varying thoughts on the right way to go...... i went with the CDD kit, mainly as it included rental of the taps and jigs, it was very easy to install steve

Roger’s link takes you to a usa site for the correct valve they offer shipping to the uk, with vat its about £42 steve

Imdo mine every couple of years, under 10K probably

my experience is that fitting cv shafts makes a considerable difference to the suspension’s ability to propel and suspend the car independently my test drive after fitting CDD cv shafts a few years ago was a revalation, powering out of a roundabout that had a big camber change the car was significantly more able to cope than with the standard setup. A new set of standard halfshafts with the coated splines might have had a similar effect, but i doubt it. i have had an issue with failure of one cv gaiter, but other than that they have been good. hth steve