Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

13 Good

About monty

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    1966 TR4A, 1963 TR4 & Audi TT @ present. In the past modified & tuned Mini, MG Midget, Mini 1275 GT, Cortina 1600E, Golf GTI X 2, MGB GT, Mini - Cooper, Porsche 911 X 3, Golf R32, MGC GT, Abarth Fiat 500 & various 4 X 4 work vehicles.

Recent Profile Visitors

569 profile views
  1. They were into TR5 production in 1968 Phil!
  2. You should be able to quickly see Roger by looking down into the engine compartment.
  3. Put them on Ian, they will look great!
  4. Chris, I have had negative on the fronts (between 1 & 2 deg) since having the car & driven around 20k miles with no real uneven wear on the front tyres. Have just replaced with a new set so will see how these wear. Not really a problem as due to mileage covered my tyres tend to get 'old' before worn out! A little stuck with the camber as on a recent full alignment check we found no shims present on one front so could not therefore reduce shims (& camber), so just made sure both sides matched.
  5. I have 1 deg negative on the rears & 2 deg negative on fronts with an anti- roll bar fitted. Car seems to run ok!
  6. I have the Racetorations unit fitted on both my cars which seem to work well & drawing out a lot of gunge & oily muck from the rocker top & block. Glad this stuff is not going back into the inlet manifold!
  7. Kop Hill yesterday (Saturday). A glorious sunny day & close to 40 TR's on the Chilterns Region stand who provided breakfast rolls & unlimited tea/coffee followed by lunchtime burgers along with cakes! Superb event as in the past with the great friendly members of the Chiltern Region. Thanks to all of you.
  8. Having spent some time looking @ around a couple of dozen TR4s & TR5s @ Kop Hill yesterday I found a huge variance in front camber so who knows what is correct! As an example 4VC had noticeable positive camber & mine & some others were quite negative. Mine appears to drive as well as it has done for the past 12 years apart, from pot hole reaction, setup precisly with laser equipment & suspension thoroughly checked, so remain confused!
  9. Recently had laser alignment done, really to check the toe-in but found the rear camber/castor/toe needed adjusting with the shims & found the front camber was 3 degrees adverse on offside & around 1.5 on near side. Could not adjust the offside as there were no shims present to remove so put a couple of shims in the near side to bring it the same (3 degrees negative). Toe in is 1/16th. Car seems to drive ok & feels pretty well the same as it did before adjustment. I guess the front tyres may wear a little more with 3 degrees adverse but as my tyres time expire before they wear out I can live with it.
  10. Yes Steve I have been guilty in not cleaning it out regularly but shall do annually like you from now on.l
  11. I mentioned in a recent post the gunge that ends up in my Racetorations catch tank & glad it does not go back via the inlet manifold as the standard specification. In an idle moment I decided to check the catch tank & give it & the associated hoses a good clean out. I was very surprised at how much gunge in the form of creamy coloured greasy oily substance I removed! The hose from the rocker cover to the tank was almost blocked & the one from the block almost as bad. What is this stuff & how is it caused? I assume it is really just a mix of oil, water & combustion material? Mileage covered has been around 15K since the system was fitted & this was a first clean out.
  12. If you saw the oily liquid gunge that goes into my catch tank you would be dumping any system that puts it possibly back into the inlet tract via a PCV, inlet manifold or air filters! I have the TR4 block breather system either pushing straight out or into the catch tank & then exiting out (depending on which car) & both rocker covers venting also into the catch tank. (The Racetorations system). I do have leakage from the rear oil seal on one car which is due to the awful original design of crankshaft scroll & weak oil seal. The other car has, I suspect, the 'Mad Marx' type of seal that gives no leaks at all on my car. Frankly the original design of these cars gives huge probability of engine leakage & even rear oil seal (usual cause) replacement can still give leakage unless meticulous replacement & quality improved seal is used.
  13. monty

    TR4 Water Loss

    As Roger said filled too much & expansion lost some water. Done it myself!
  14. As you will recall Rich we have had a couple of chats & dealings & I am surprised that Stratford was a disappointment. Quite frankly I thought the event could have been better & I found it all a bit disjointed & I have to confess I missed your stall & would have liked to have introduced myself in person. I never did find TR Enterprises who were listed in the programme! Were you listed? You are on my list of suppliers & when required again I shall be in touch but in the meantime keep going! You know how I feel about some of the junk we sometimes find ourself with but of course some people are happy to pay cheap & accept it. Good luck.
  15. Spend the most you need to on the chain. No point fitting cheap Chinese or Indian junk. I would also put a new quality oil seal in anyway while you have everything apart. Having said all that the seal on mine is seeping again despite all being replaced only a few thousand miles ago!
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.