monty

Hi Drewmotty, assuming the tap is forgotten what is your system of trying to flush the block?

Hi Marco, Cooling system has always been good, electric fan kicks in when it should etc but have not changed the anti freeze for some while so thought I would just drain, flush & refill. Did not want a major dismantling session if it could be avoided so will drain the rad, disconnect hoses & see what comes out. Last time I did it, some years ago, all I got out was pale blue anti freeze/water & no muck at all! A waste of time really but it is old anti freeze in there so…? Glad I bought one of your locking caps Marco with the price & shortages of fuel these days! Cheers.

Hi Roger, As the block drain cock has been like it for years I am loath to try & force it in case of breakage in the block plus it is awkward to get at with manifolds etc. Definitely Radflush & Bluecol though. No sign of overheating for years even on a track day yesterday! I was just worried about the airlock situation that I once had in the past with lack of real heat from the heater.

I think it about time to drain the cooling system & put in some fresh anti freeze. The block drain plug is seized up closed so I can only drain by removing the bottom rad hose. What are peoples methods to drain & flush the system without getting any air locks?

Stuart, reading various posts I get the impression that R14 is the low pressure version (not suitable for injected cars) of R9 which is a high pressure hose for injected cars & presumably ok for carbs. Getting confused now & worried about the reading of some makes of hose failing. Can you recommend something?

Decided to order some ethanol resistant fuel hose from Merlin Motorsport & wondered what people’s preferences or recommendations are. Standard reinforced rubber fuel hose ok to +50 degrees, a higher spec rubber hose to +125 degrees or probably my preference of fabric braided rated to +60 degrees. All are at least E10 rated & to the din73379 spec for use with fuels.

Just been given an LED 3rd brake light with 2 wires from it for connection. Is it just a matter of connecting say the red wire from it to one of the existing stop light wires in the boot (which colour?) & the black wire from the unit to earth?

We are all in the same situation I guess. Cannot take the cars out for a run to warm everything up etc so what are people's thoughts about just starting up the cars @ home say once a month without a good run? I have always been lead to believe that it is not really a good idea just cold starting without a decent run to circulate things but of course we cannot do this. Better to just leave the car locked away or start up & run the engine for a while?

As I thought it may be the last chance to take a pleasure drive for a long time, I gave both TR's a run of around 30 miles on a glorious Gloucestershire day that felt there was not a care in the World. Did the runs solo & talked to nobody! A couple of great drives with both cars perfectly on song, weather great but an awful situation hanging over all of us. Take care everybody & stay safe & well.

Green Spark Plug company. Usually quite good for spares but when I quoted the item you suggested on EBay they said it would not fit! I will try the one from Intermotor. If it fitted yours it should fit mine!

Hi Roger, Just been in touch with Green SP & they say that switch does not fit a Tr4/4A! I am now a little confused! Moss do a metal one 13H3735X & Rimmers only do the plastic thing 134529. Can you give me the part number & supplier of the metal unit you have successfully fitted? Regards.

My Tr4 has the mechanical switch fitted as my 4A so the previous owner must have done the modification. On that basis I assume the better quality metal switch will fit either car.

Just a thought Roger. Does that switch fit all TR4 as well as TR4A? Didn't they change the switch type during TR4 production?

A similar business, Thornley Kelham here in Gloucestershire, are usually looking for similar people.

Thanks Mike.