elclem1

Thanks guys

I agree with comments above but we must now remember the a CP tr6 is the new tr5. And prices have risen accordingly. I have both models undergoing nut and bolt Restoration, but my last CR sold at beaulieu in 2016 for 20k so I reckon they are now around 25+ for a really good example. CP closer to 40k. Sure you can find good average cars that need a ‘bit doing to it’ but if you don’t know the marque be warned you could get bitten. There are loads of people on this website/ club who have masses of knowledge you only need to ask.

Oh moss in Paris?

I thought collection vehicles only were 5% certainly when you import into the EU from the states it is.

Hi All. does anyone know the difference between a TR4/A heater box and a TR5? I have one with two outlets whereas the tr5 has 4. cheers Clem

My wife’s 1969 cp 25198 had chrome screws, hinges, lock when I collected it from the seller many years ago. But strangely black on the windscreen dash bolts? Tr5 I have is chrome on the bolts yet only a year between them and chrome for the rest. Strange. As Stuart mentioned maybe they had run out of chrome for the 6.

I can see the obvious change on the later arm where the fillet has been straightened to avoid cracking in that area. But to my dodgy eyes the orientation looks the same.?

Looks good Dave but why does the seatbelt go into the boot? Doesn’t this compromise the idea of a firewall like wise the wiring loom? I fitted one similar to my hillclimb car but the seat belts are fixed within the drivers compartment and the wiring loom passes under the rear swab and into the boot through one of the many holes left by the injection system when I changed to carbs. Thus maintaining the integrity of the firewall. Am I missing something, I usually do.! Clem

Nick is that why the brackets changed from 1 and 3 notch to 2 and 3 notch?

To hide the rear rails can be done in a number of ways, not all of them are recommended for sure. Check and see if the rear cross member hasn’t been changed at some point and welded up incorrectly so not in the correct angle. But the main thing to check is the cross member t shirt area that imho is the weakest area and is nearly always rotted through under the t shirts so the sides of the rails may look ok but the top and bottom are shot and therefore looses the strength to support itself hence the hogging or sagging and gaps that change especially when on a two post lift.

Brass every time for me

Wiring loom first then heater

Thanks Andy/Roger interesting to look through. I shall spend some time having a proper read through. Cheers Clem

Hi all there was a thread on here sometime ago, which I have tried looking for, which was about replacement motors for a heater unit can anyone recall or has the thread to hand so that I may investigate, or order one please. In hope Clem

Is the filter the correct way for flow to the pump?