elclem1

I have spax fitted 4 clicks front and back with 185/65/15 fitted on wires smooth ride IMHO.

Yes find the reason why it toasted itself first before you fit anything otherwise you run the risk of buying several looms.

I will see if I can find the info but it was some time ago and the car is no longer with me. Clem

I fitted twin 13/4” su carbs from a saloon car to a US cc engine without any dramas, I set the nuts underneath to 2 full turns open disconnected the linkages and started the car. With a gunson air balancer, balanced the air flow into the carbs and refitted the linkages with a gunsun co2 meter I adjusted the mixture on both carbs a flat at a time until I had a reading of 4.5% then reduced the tick over speed on one idle screw to 850 rpm. She ran fantastic afterwards

Dear all, just to feedback the work I have done, I changed the diff for a standard 3.45:1 one and have just been for a quick run, flipping heck it’s a new car! No noise no straining just a beautiful smooth drive my french friend will be impressed when he comes on Thursday to collect it. I am 100% sure the diff has had it, so now just got to get it back to the supplier in the UKand await the reason why. Maybe it’s time to leave Quaife diffs alone.?

Hi all thanks for the replies, Stuart I thought about the oil and asked the question of the builder and supplier of said diff. The e mail I received that the oil to be used was normal diff oil, also on the quaife website it says 75/80 so I don't think the oil is a problem, but I know there are other diffs that require special LSD oil. Having removed the diff yesterday and left it overnight in the garage. it is now as tight as a drum! almost too tight. So it has gone from rattling and noises coming from inside when I arrived back to being so tight it is difficult to turn by hand. I am going to call the supplier to see if I can take the back off and have a look inside to see if the oil has turned to slurry or if there are any bits in the bottom of the housing. My concern is that I did not get a report from the first time it went back to explain why there were noises coming from the diff, just a "well all of the bearings and seals were replaced and we couldn't really find anything wrong" No dimensional checks, no list of items replaced no mention of whether the unit had been mis-assembled. My friend now is really concerned that he paid a lot of money for something that has failed twice and in his eyes is likely to fail again. first failure after 1000 miles second after 100 miles. who wouldn't be? at the moment I have replaced the diff with a standard one and we shall go from there. Nick - Nissan conversion? where do I get some good info on that, it may be the way ahead after this is resolved. Thanks again all for inputs, hopefully I can update after a call this morning to the supplier. Clem

Thanks Steve, that’s good to know. For me I think it’s a matter of setting the shims inside. I worry that the work was done by the person that did the diff in the first place. This time I think I will ask for an independent report of the failure. Of course I am unable to contact the supplier today as they are closed.

Good morning to everyone. Has anyone fitted, or has had fitted a Quaife limited slip diff to their tr6? Last year I fitted one that was supplied by a well known supplier in the TR world. I fitted it to a friends car here in France. The car is an early CC model 1969 fitted with a completely rebuilt PI engine and j type overdrive gearbox. Together with standard drive shafts and UJ,s from the same supplier. I fitted the diff last year and thought it was a fit and forget, boy was I wrong! My friend has just covered 1000 miles when there were some horrible sounds coming from the back end. The diff upon inspection had a serious amount of play and two of the UJ,s were also rattling. So I changed UJs and did a test run. The noise was better but still bad so I decided to send it back under guarantee to the supplier. The turn around time was superb and the supplier was very helpful and said that there was a problem( not really specified) but they had changed bearings had a look at the lsd and rebuilt the diff at no cost. When I got it home here it was tight and I and my friend were very happy. The diff was tight when turned by hand etc etc. I refitted it and on the test run out about 10 miles everything was ok. However yesterday I was at the Grand Prix de Pau about 50 miles from where I live and on return the car was acting very peculiar, it felt like it was always trying to slow down and a noise returned to the drive train transmitting through the gear lever at first then to the engine. At first it felt like the car was running on 5 cylinders. When I arrived home it was straight on the car lift and I checked the engine first, no probs but the the diff now has quite a bit of backlash and acts like a normal diff as in the right had wheel spins freely when turned fast by hand the left is stationary when the left is turned the same speed the right hand turns at the same time? The noise in the diff is a clunk and is inside the rear of the diff, but more than that one of the brand new UJs has now a lot of play - coincidence or diff related I wonder? When I replaced the diff the first time with a standard unit the car ran fantastically well. I am now a little stumped on why this would happen on a diff that has done just over 100 miles. Can someone give me any suggestions please. Clem

Had the same problem this weekend at a hill climb, I reset all of the timing, valve gaps and carbs hey presto everything ok. One thing I did notice was the overfuel unit at the back of the carbs one was leaking so as I don’t use them I blanked them off now at least I have no random fuel leaks or overfueling.

5/16 copper pipe.

Hi Colin, looking very nice a great credit to your skills.

Ah shame that, but I understand completely thanks graham. But the offer still stands for a visit.

I have used ST Marc or as the uk would say Flash the stuff that cleans floors without scratching ( Scottish accent) mix the crystals in a bucket of warm water until dissolved, empty the rad and engine of existing water as best you can usually by the bottom rad hose. Put the mix into the rad and top up. Run the engine until at operating temp making sure the heater valve is open, After 20 -30 mins leave to cool down and drain the system. You will be amazed how much stuff comes out sometimes slurry like. Top up with fresh water and repeat until the water is clear that is being drained, or if you have access to a hose put it on the heater hose and another pipe from the heater valve and flush that way until clear. I usually remove the thermostat to ensure good flow and to move all of the muck. When you are happy that all of the crud has gone top up with anti freeze of your choice. Simples!

I didn’t realize that we could do it in the club, how does that work for an imported into the uk tr6 but about to start a restoration in France?Do I need to pay mileage and lots of wine for graham to come and look at it?

They will fit but beware of quality, the new ones are a bit rough around the edges and flimsy, ask me how I know!