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John Bracher

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About John Bracher

  • Birthday 08/03/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Salisbury, Wilts
  • Cars Owned:
    1974 TR6 CR
    Assorted Vitesses.....

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426 profile views
  1. Daz I agree with Harry. If you decide to go for making one, get to your local Agricultural/Farm machinery shop (not a mower shop) and buy a 1m length of (I would suggest) M16 HT studding and suitable nuts/washers etc. The only 'complex' part of the tool is the lower plate, which (probably) the farm shop will have something suitable (scrap metal plate) for use. Grease the threads, and mind your fingers!!
  2. Bu**ers!! What is it they say "Neither a borrower nor a Lender be.........." Aside from that though, Stuart, can I borrow your....... Had to do one of mine recently, when a window regulator packed up! (Anyone got a good drivers side regulator for sale?? mine is still not right!!) Lost one of the pins onto my pea shingle drive , so made a replacement from some 3.2mm Diameter welding electrode .... Lovely!! Then fitted it using a 'tubing' method very similar to Dave IoW. Holding the spring and finisher back is the hard bit!
  3. When I did mine, I left the heater matrix closed off from the main system, and did this seperately. Ran for severla short trips with scale remover, before moving into flushing mode. I used Roger's trick with the coat hanger for 'phase 2' and shifted loads more crud. I managed to rig a hosepipe connection to fit the block drain plug hole after that, and flushed 'upwards and outwards' from there --- more crud!! I then ran the same methodology through the heater system from the external hoses, as I had (in a former life) managed to completely bung up a Ford heater matrix (really thin tubework) with the crud released from the block, thus turning a 'not very good heater' into 'no heater at all' -- lesson learned there! Ultimately, the engine now runs way cooler than it did before, which I take to be a success!
  4. Thanks Gents! Waldi, I have new nuts etc arriving shortly, and have now undergone some grinding/metal removal of the manifold flanges and much 'stud refurbishment' (removal of bent studs, replacements and thread re-cutting) to allow things to fit together without conflict, and (hopefully) not too many tears!! At some time, the TBs and manifolds were 'fitted together' by 'adjusting' with a (presumably) large hammer!!
  5. Gents I am just in the process of replacing my manifold gasket with a 'superior' type from one of the usual suppliers. The old gasket was a 'standard' type, and was stuck to the throttle bodies in places, and clearly showing signs of 'blow by' at the exhaust ports. Wanting (obviously) to avoid air leakage (inwards) on the throttle bodies, and issues on the (tubular) manifold joints, does anyone have any suggestions of sealing compound, or should the gasket be fitted dry, and with crossed fingers?? Thanks!!
  6. I hope it has a brown interior............!
  7. So, Steve On you go, and good luck! Once you have succeeded, please post with the winning method, and I can then get onto fitting mine!!
  8. This works! When I made some templates for an interior 're-trim' a few years ago, I 'found' a piece of @3mm thick clear acrylic sheet to use as a template, so allowing accurate marking of holes where they needed to be from the door metalwork onto the panel. Worked a treat! My boss at the time was furious when we said the acrylic sheet must have been accidentally "lost or thrown away".........
  9. Any advantage in soaking the rubber in a hot bath first? (That sounds a bit suspect, but I'm sure you get my meaning!)
  10. Steve Is it the outer rubber to glass trim you are struggling with? If so, I think there is a tool to push/pull the clips onto the door edge?? Someone will know the answer!
  11. Gents Thanks for the info regarding setting up the TB once the butterflies are secure, all good stuff, but not there yet. I have looked at Revingtons, and see the screws available are priced at something like £3.30 (preumably each??!!)--Will have to ring them So, £39 plus P&P if I want to (while, I am doing it), replace (potentially) all 12! OUCH!! (BTW, Having a trawl around the web, mild steel Cad plated 6/32 UNC screws (as an example) are apparently about £3.50 a packet of 25) Presumably, the 'correct' ones are made form a 'rare earth' metal.......... I work for an manufacturing company, so could probably even buy these screws at 'trade' price, if I can just confirm what size I need! Anything else appreciated!
  12. Gents I need to replace some butterfly screws in a CR type TB I am planning to fit. I have removed all the old (mangled) screws, so need to get some replacements. Anyone know what size they are?? Look like about a # 5 or # 6, UNF?? Are any of the usual suppliers good/bad for replacements?? Thanks!
  13. When I asked about getting my existing original TR6 seats refurbed, that was a "No".
  14. When I had 'Modern' 195s, on mine, it would stick/cling like 'stuff to a blanket' on bends, but then suddenly let go completely with a real 'brown trousers' moment! The 165s are a lot more 'progressive' when stretched, and can be felt to be 'just about' to let go. To me, that is preferrable.
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