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Dave McDonald

TR Register Members
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About Dave McDonald

  • Birthday 09/28/1947

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  • Location
    Retford, Notts

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  1. Peter, Thanks very much. Just what I was looking for. Dave McD
  2. Can anyone give me the measurements to locate these lights so that I can drill the wings correctly please. Dave McD
  3. Well, I did say I wasn't an electrician! Sorry. Dave McD
  4. Rob, I'm no electrician, but yes the purple/white wires are for the interior lights, etc. You do have the car lights turned on don't you? I don't think the door switch and cubby box/interior light will work without that. Sorry, if that's a bit obvious for you and I'm afraid my knowledge does not extend beyond that. Dave McD
  5. Hope I've attached the correct link. Bought these 4 dollies recently for £60.00, inc p & p. Came from Germany in only 4 or 5 days. Well pleased with them. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-Car-Wheel-Dollies-06161-Skate-Car-Van-Vehicle-Positioning-Trolley-Dolly-450kg/372485192522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872. Dave McD
  6. Jon, That all sounds positive. Based on your experience, I'd better start to contact DVLA/SGS to inspect my USA TR6 in the near future before I go too far with the strip down. Please keep us informed of the continuing progress from here, both Registration wise and dismantle/rebuild wise. Dave McD
  7. Jon and Ed, thanks for clarification of the two bars. I guessed it would be something like that, but just hadn't seen them before. Other than for connecting snow clearing equipment, I can't see any need to reinforce the rad shield like that. Jon, Who are/is SGS exactly? Presumably art of/attached to the DVLA? Are you saying that they will allocate a new age related registration number to your USA car prior to it being dismantled and rebuilt? I ask because I have a USA TR6 to start rebuilding. The last time I did a USA TR6, twenty years ago, I rebuilt it, got it MOT'd using the Commission plate as an identity, got it insured with that MOT and identity and then had to trailer the rebuilt car to a DVLA office in Nottingham for inspection before a number plate was issued. Dave McD
  8. Jon, 1. - That's an interesting front radiator protection shield. Looks to have been reinforced with a downward flange at the front and several gusset plates. Is there an obvious reason for that? I've never seen one like that before. 2. - What are the two bracing bars sticking out of the front of the valance for? Again I've not seen those previously. Dave McD
  9. Peter, My March 68 TR5 and Oct 68 USA TR6 are both tax exempt so your car should be exempt. I'm about to start a full restoration on my TR5 and knowing you're not too far away from me I may contact you to come over and pick your brains if you don't mind. Dave McD
  10. David. As mentioned by Stan above, boxing in the front bridge diff mount pins and welding top reinforcing plates on them is an easy fix giving security against the often found O/S diff pin mount cracking in the bridge and eventually pulling through in extreme conditions. Not easy to fix with the body shell in place. The rear diff mounting bridge was originally a thin gauge pressed steel open inverted U shaped channel which is quite flimsy. You can press the bottom of the 2 flanges together with relatively modest hand pressure. Apart from providing mounts for the diff, the rear shock absorbers are also mounted on this bridge. The bridge stiffness benefits from welding a plate across the bottom of these 2 flanges to make it into a closed box. Brand new chassis from CTM come with this modification as standard. Also the means by which this rear bridge was attached to the main chassis side rails is worthy of inspection. The original factory welding can be a bit hit and miss but is easily rectified if needed when you have a bare chassis. At the front end check to see if your chassis has the reinforcing plates on all bottom wishbone brackets. Available from all the usual TR parts suppliers, either separately or in a kit if you need them all. With regard to suspension upgrades it all depends what you want from the car. There are a variety of opinions about whether changes improve a car or detract from it. I'm a firm believer in poly bushes in all suspension items, other disagree. Coil springs - Moss have a choice of 6 or 7 for front and back ranging from standard to full race, with incrementally increased spring rates and reduced heights. See page 111 of Moss 2018 catalogue. Some years ago I fitted slightly lowered and increased rate springs all round to my TR5 (can't find record of exactly which items they were.) The car handling improved greatly, i.e. it cornered very well. However, on anything other than good quality smooth trunk roads, the ride was awful, banging and clattering on even minor ripples on side roads. You pays your money and takes your choice. Brakes - You could fit a full system of 4 pot calipers with vented discs but these are expensive. Sticking with standard brakes you can fit harder front pads and rear linings but, depending on how extreme you go, be aware that they may take a second or two to reach optimum temperature after you apply them. I have in the past fitted Rover P6 3500 V8 calipers which fit standard mounts, take a bigger pad and bigger disc and are a definite improvement. However, I cannot remember for the life in me where I got the discs from. PM me if you want to discuss anything else. Dave McD
  11. Hello person with no name and welcome to the TR Register forum, 78mm pistons by JE, giving 2725 cc are available at Cambridge Motorsport www.cambridgemotorsport.com Tele 01462 684300 You will need a special oversize head gasket. These are available from a well known TR Specialist in Lincolnshire but much cheaper at Wishbone Classics in the USA, even including the shipping and import taxes. wishboneclassics.com Dave McD
  12. Waldi got in first. I believe the 1/4" UNF welded nuts are quite a generous external size and can be drilled out and tapped to 5/16" UNF without difficulty. Dave McD
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