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Dave McDonald

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Dave McDonald last won the day on October 14

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About Dave McDonald

  • Birthday 09/28/1947

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  • Location
    Retford, Notts

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  1. I've spent a great day today with my 17 year old Grandson Bailey, on a half day track day at Cadwell Park in my Race TR6. He's been with me to virtually every race since he was about 12 and has been a huge help in both building and preparing the car and acting as Pit Crew at all the races, including at Spa, Belgium. He's been driving the car in the paddock to Scrutineering, etc for the last 18 months, but this was time for him to have the opportunity to try it out at speed on the track. Thanks to the organisers, North Humberside Motor Club, for allowing him to take part. First session was him in passenger set with me driving to find his way around the circuit. Then, in the still damp conditions, him driving with me in the passenger seat. He took to it immediately, with only one minor early indiscretion, which I think taught him to focus and respect what he was doing. Over several sessions, as the track slowly dried and he became more familiar with the cars characteristics, his confidence grew and his pace increased. By the end of the event he was well on it and really trying hard. No misdemeanours and car safely home. Couldn't have asked for more. He had several genuine favourable comments from other session drivers about his conduct. One very Happy young man, grin from one ear to the other, and one very proud Grandad. See photo. Dave McD
  2. I've had an aluminium tank welded in the past. Off the car of course The specialist welder asked me to empty it and leave it for a few days with all connections open for as much fuel as possible to evaporate. Then stick a rubber hose up the exhaust of my diesel car with the engine running with it directed into the aluminium tank filler hole for about half an hour. He was then happy to weld the tank. Dave McD
  3. Dave McDonald


    Well Neil, it would be fair to say that few of your sometimes brief, robust statements in the past have aligned with my own views, but I have to say that on this occasion I am entirely in agreement with you. Dave McD
  4. Hi Dave, Can't say that I agree with Neils' opinion on the rod and bell crank system that you have with your kit. I've used it successfully on my race car for several years now without ANY problems at all. Just ensure that the bell crank fixings are securely tightened onto the rod. I'll try to remember to photo mine and post it tomorrow. Yes, the rose jointed rod mounts need a lock nut to secure them once they are all aligned, but it's only a straightforward 5/16" or 3/8" UNF nut, so not a problem. You will need to provide a "buttress" on one of the carbs to secure the end of the throttle cable so that it has something to pull against when you depress the pedal. I made up my own as I couldn't find anything in the Weber standard parts list. I provided 2 cables just in case one broke, but that was really belt and braces for a race situation to avoid being unable to finish a race. Don't forget to adjust the bolt stop on the back of the accelerator pedal to avoid stretching the cable and breaking it. Yes, Misab plates which are a metal plate with an O ring between each carb and the inlet manifold, are better than the flat gaskets supplied. They allow the carbs to be inclined/rotated on their mountings to provide a good seal, while enabling the rod mounts to be aligned properly so that the linkage rod rotates freely. See link - https://fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/search&search=Misab Plates If you do decide to go for a cable option see link https://fastroadcars.co.uk/store/index.php?route=product/product&path=60_80&product_id=528 I'll try to post a photo of the cable system tomorrow. Before assembling anything together on the car it is advisable to :- Offer the carbs to the inlet manifold, which looks like a TWM in the photo. There are sometimes slight misalignments which just need opening up to allow full orifice flow. Offer the manifold to the cylinder head. Sometimes the fixing holes need slight relieving to ensure a good fit. Depending on what type of exhaust manifold you have, check that you can fit all the nuts on the projecting studs. With a tubular steel performance manifold the nuts on the bottom studs at cylinders 1 & 6 cannot fit on. Remove the studs and use a Cap Head Screw (Allen Key Screw) instead, which can go in after the inlet manifold is fitted. It has even been necessary sometimes to grind down the sides of the head of the cap head screw for clearance. Consider the need for a choke. The TR6 starts fine without a choke. Just press the accelerator pedal 3 or 4 times before you turn the key to pump fuel in and it starts ok. If you are happy doing that you can cut off the triangular plate from the inlet manifold under the back carb which forms the mount for the L shaped bell crank in conjunction with the long turnbuckle to operate the choke. With that plate cut away it is VERY much easier to get to the bottom manifold fixing bolts with the "slugs" which fix both inlet and exhaust manifold. Ask me how I know??!! Don't take my word for this before you start cutting. Ask others for their opinion. After this I found it best to assemble the carbs onto the inlet manifold and set up the linkage rod mounts, etc on the bench. I then offered that whole assembly to the cylinder head to bolt it into place. Depending on what length inlet trumpets you have, you may find it easier to remove them at this stage to enable access to the bottom studs/nut/"slug" fixings underneath and then put the trumpets back on later. Hope that helps. Dave McD
  5. Alan, As several people have said above, it depends how far you want to go with the build. I've just finished removing the underseal from my TR5 which I had always intended doing a full restoration on. The shell went for blasting yesterday. I believe the underseal on my car was probably factory original. It had the original factory colour paint underneath, while the car had been restored in a different colour everywhere that showed 25 years ago. I used a 1" flat wood chisel with no heat, sharpening it now and then as required. A 1/2" and even 1/4" chisel was useful in a few tight corners. The recent cold weather probably helped. It was quite a task to remove it from under the floor pans, rear diff shelf area and all 4 inner wheelarches and it did leave scrape marks in the underlying paint, but as this is all to be blasted off and repainted I was not concerned about that. The outer wings had stone chip on them, not underseal. Dave McD
  6. Me too, rendezvous at 12 00? Will be there with my 17 year old Grandson. Dave McD
  7. Alan Ross Jones has been around for many years. He won the Fordwater Trophy at the Goodwood Revival in the same TR4 a few years ago. Mark Hales is also a well known race driver with many years experience. The whole event sounds great Ian. Thanks for the photos. Dave McD
  8. I have same fittings on my race TR6. Been on for 20 years and still functions well when strip engine for refreshing every 4 - 5 years. I will install similar on my TR5 road car which I am currently restoring. Dave McD
  9. My TR5, bought in 1997, only had an external mirror of the 622352 type on the drivers door, which I believe is correct, as per Toms' TR250 above. Before my first European trip in 1998 I fitted a passenger door mirror to assist rear views when overtaking. I placed it in the same position as that on the drivers door, which I believe to be the original location. I have never been able to get it into a sensible adjustment. There is insufficient range on the shallow "ball" joint fixing on the stem/mirror back plate to turn it where I would like it for horizontal adjustment. I've tried rotating the stem in the door to alter this but that ends up with it affecting the vertical adjustment. So I have the choice of looking at the hedges alongside the road I'm travelling on or up at the sky. I have also tried the stems rotated round to be curved both convex upwards or concave downwards. Made no difference at all. I have yet to perceive the area behind and alongside my car where another vehicle might be coming alongside me. I've resolved to solve the problem during the full restoration that I'm doing while the existing holes in the doors can be welded up and repositioned before paint. I'd like to keep those mirrors for originality and have considered a circular tapered wedge shaped plate under the bottom of the stem, in stainless steel to avoid rusting, to bring the stem round to where I'd like it to bring the mirror into it's normal adjustment range. If that won't work I might have to change to different mirrors altogether. Has anyone else had similar problems? Dave McD
  10. I agree that servicing the TRs is part and parcel of the enjoyment of the cars. At my advancing years I've grown tired of crawling under them with them up on axle stands to change the oil and filter, grease drive shaft, prop shaft, remove and replace diff. etc. Earlier this year I invested in a 2 post lift by Twin Busch, a German company that I saw at last Novembers' NEC show. Together with a hydraulic transmission jack it has made some of those jobs so easy. Dave McD
  11. I asked my MoT garage on Thursday if he would pass my TR5 with LED headlamps, explaining the reticence that has been highlighted on here by some testers. He said that he would have no problems with passing them as long as the alignment was set up correctly. I'll be looking for some at next weekends Classic Car Show. Dave McD
  12. I could be on the TRR stand at 12-00. It would be good to put faces to some names. Let me know. Dave McD
  13. I don't have personal experience of their engines but I've followed their TR5/TR6 race engines on many occasions when they've shot off into the distance if that's anything to go by. Have bought Quaife dog box gearbox bits from them in the past. Dave McD
  14. I'll be there with my Grandson on Saturday from opening time. Dave McD
  15. Did a search last night after my post above, including a query to Harrington Direct about whether their website prices include VAT or not as it wasn't mentioned. TR Shop sell them for TR5 at £850.00. Had reply from Harrington at 0800 hrs this morning! All taxes are paid and their normal web price direct, including shipping is £795.00 all in. To make it better, they have a sale until end of October with 10% discount inc on Shipping. Price delivered to me £716.00. I've had quotes for re chroming my existing bumpers and over riders ranging from £580.00 + VAT(questionable), £700.00 + VAT and up to £1100.00 + VAT. No contest. Order placed with Harrington awaiting invoice to pay. Dave McD
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