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Dave McDonald

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Dave McDonald last won the day on October 14 2019

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About Dave McDonald

  • Birthday 09/28/1947

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  • Location
    Retford, Notts

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  1. PJR, Depending on which version of the cube pump you have, it could be struggling to feed your carbs. See link https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/facet-solid-state-electronic-fuel-pump-kit-243225/ there are 3 versions with different flow rates/pressures. A filter between the pump and carbs is a good idea. My car on triple Webers uses this Facet pump https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/facet-interrupter-electronic-fuel-pump-kit-243227/ which also has 3 versions but the lowest performance version is equal to the highest cube pump. This pump has an internal filter. I also run a variable fuel pressure regulator to fine tune the fuel delivery which also incorporates a filter. Hope this helps. Dave McD
  2. I can confirm that my race TR6 has no heater. The heater control valve at the back of the cylinder head has a plug and similarly a plug in the back of the water pump housing where the long steel pipe would connect to feed the heater valve. Dave McD
  3. We've got a sub forum for "Build Diaries" - it's called Owners Blogs - back to main TRR website under Communities. Dave McD
  4. During the strip for my current TR5 restoration I found that the assembly of vertical guides had corroded and become partially detached from the bottom locating bracket and were offering very little control in glass position during raising and lowering. This could only be seen with the door cards removed. BTW, I'll be looking for replacement metal guides at Stoneleigh if anyone can help? With regard to the rubber/furflex replaceable guide in the metal vertical guide try this Woolies product. https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/product/1649/small-window-channel Dave McD
  5. The LHD cars have a dip switch mounted on a separate bracket. The RHD cars dip switch is fixed with 2 No 3/16"unf screws directly into the bulkhead. I would have to check mine but I think it is mounted ON the carpet with the screws through the carpet. Dave McD
  6. Dave McDonald

    Heater fan

    Mark, You could try Clayton Classics for a heater fan http://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/112-heating Dave McD
  7. There was a thread on the Forum around 3 months ago (but I can't find it) about a Rimmers new chassis where the front main diff bridge had the semi circular recess incorrectly located in the centre causing problems with the diff fitting. Not a good recommendation. Dave McD
  8. Tom, PM sent. Regards Dave McD
  9. Dan, At a guess that could be from something like a Standard Atlas van. You could try Revington TR, I think they had one replicating a period Works Rally/Race support vehicle. They MIGHT have a spare. Worth a call. Alternatively, try Canley Classics who have also restored one in Works livery. See link https://www.canleyclassics.com/our-museum/atlas-van/ Good luck with your search, though for the life in me I can't imagine why you would want it in a TR6? Dave McD
  10. Sorry but I don't think that's a TR5 mirror. Should be P/No 622352 I believe. Dave McD
  11. Having noted all the comments in this thread and speaking to several companies I eventually decided to go for the same solution as David above. The West of Scotland is a bit far for me but I ended up using Soda Blasting Ltd in Wolverhampton, https://www.sodablastingltd.co.uk/ also not exactly on my doorstep but worth the trip. They have carried out work in the past for the TV show Car SOS. The website shows numerous car case studies. From the start of telephone contact I felt confident that they would do what they said they would do, including removing what I believe was the original stone chip on the inside of the wings. They used soda on the external panels and glass bead on the majority of the shell except the scuttle and both front and rear valances and rear deck, i.e. all the panels that actually show on the finished car. There are no signs of rippling/distortion on any of the external panels. They also applied a coat of holding primer to prevent flash rusting during transport home and the inevitable welding repairs that are necessary. I took it to them on 11th November with a 3 week projected programme and collected it 4th December. The price quoted over the phone was exactly what I paid without any "...oh it was more difficult, we'll need to charge you more..." They were very helpful with offloading and reloading onto my trailer. I took it on a makeshift trolley made from a large wooden pallet, begged from my local Travis Perkins, with some bogie wheels on it which has made moving it around so easy. In summary, I'm very pleased with their service, no connection just a satisfied customer. Other projects on their premises during my visits were an MGB, E Type and Mk Escort. Now preparing a rotisserie to turn the body over for weld repairs and painting. Dave McD
  12. I've used that method with all the rocker gear and head stud nuts removed to break the bond of a cylinder head gasket so that I could remove the cylinder head which stubbornly refused to shift. A quick turn over on the starter motor and boom, job done. That was at a race meeting when the head gasket blew in morning qualifying and I managed to get it sorted to be able to take the start at the afternoon race. I'm also wondering how to remove that front crank nut on my TR5 engine which is now out of the car on a stillage ready for a full rebuild as part of the car restoration, see below. I meant to use the "someone else on the brakes and chocks under the wheels" method as Mick mentions and I've used successfully before - but I forgot before I took it out of the car. I was considering removing the clutch and bolting a flat bar approx. 500 - 600mm long to two of the flywheel bolts with one end on the floor to resist the undoing torque. I've recently treated myself to a 20V battery impact wrench, so I'll give that a try first, as recommended above. Dave McD
  13. Harry/Ian, I'm interested in the air box arrangement. I will be fitting triple Weber 45DCOEs to my TR5 which I'm currently restoring and had been considering an air box myself. I know you're both using EFi set ups but are the main air box back plate fixings to the "lookalike" EFi throttle bodies identical to the Weber carb bodies where the trumpets fit? Who manufactures these air boxes and are they readily available or made to order? I had thought I would have to have something made bespoke. How does the curved outer cover fix to the vertical back plate at the bottom? It's a bit tight for room under there. Are the fixings similar to what looks like self tapping screws on the top? If they are, that looks as if they could be awkward to fit. I have the original short indent wing which you say is a problem Ian. Is the problem that the connection for the flexible hose conflicts with the short wing indent? I have seen a Revington air box in the past which I think had the hose connection angled from the front end, presumably for exactly that reason. Alternatively, with my bodyshell at the just back from blast cleaning stage, I could consider having the inner wheel arch short indent/recess cut and reshaped to the long indent recess configuration, along with all the other weld repairs. Interested in anything else that you can add please. If it's easier to discuss by phone, drop me a PM with your telephone number please and I'll ring either one or both of you. Dave McD
  14. John, You have a PM. Dave McD
  15. Happy Christmas to you and yours John and all other Forumites. Dave McD
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