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Dave McDonald

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About Dave McDonald

  • Birthday 09/28/1947

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  • Location
    Retford, Notts

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495 profile views
  1. Chris, North London Group of the TR Register. Good Luck at Brands Hatch. Dave McD
  2. I completely agree about Pagid pads. I use RS29 compound with 4 pot calipers and vented discs. Yes, more expensive but have excellent performance, are extremely durable and very kind to the discs. I just bedded a new set in yesterday ready for the Spa summer Classic. For a track day car with standard brakes you could do worse than speak to Carbotech http://carbotech-europe.com/ who have a range of compounds for "Fast Road" to "Extreme Race" conditions. I used their materials for many years with standard calipers. Dave McD
  3. Probably the same two Trabants that were at Spa Summer Classic 2 years ago which received enthusiastic applause every time they went past the pits. Dave McD
  4. Hi Christian, It will be good to see you at the Spa Summer Classic. I thought your European series was racing elsewhere that weekend? I think Chris Edwards will be there in his TR4 as well. Dave McD
  5. Ian/Tom, No need to remove the gearbox cover or cut such a large section of the cover away. The top mounting bolt of the starter motor should be captive with a spline in the motor fixing flange. You just need a 1" diameter hole in the gearbox cover in the correct position so that you can fit a long socket extension through it to remove the nut. Re locating the washer can be a bit of a faff but the nut can be re offered up in the socket and tightened without removing the tunnel cover. Just reseal the hole with a 1" dia rubber grommet. Dave McD
  6. qkingston (or whatever your name is?) You mention cones so I assume you are referring to the front mounts. The top "convex" bush seats into a dish in the steel diff cross mounting bridge while the lower "concave" bush seats up against the same steel dish. When bolted up tight with the correct large dia steel washer underneath they all centralise naturally around their relevant parts and form a rigid fixing. I wouldn't be too concerned that they are a little loose on the pins. As Pod One (or whatever his name is?) says, that helps with manoeuvering the diff into position. If it's the rear mounts with the steel sandwich plate they should have a steel sleeve down the centre to make them a reasonably tight fit on the diff mount pins. Dave McD
  7. Kevin, I also never saw Blyton advertised. Dave McD
  8. Eddie, The floor is in a unit that I rent. It was reasonably robust from the "drillability" point of view but only approx. 90 - 100mm thick, hence the need to break out locally and upgrade. The new concrete will be compacted with a vibrating poker and reinforced with A393 steel mesh, carefully placed and fixed in advance, with a template of the post base to avoid drilling through it for the new HD bolts. Dave McD
  9. Rich, I just carry a fairly basic scissor lift which can be stored alongside the spare wheel under the plywood boot floor. Ok for changing a spare wheel in the event of an occasional puncture. Dave McD
  10. Hi Mick/Eddie, Thanks for your concern/comments/advice. I went into this with my eyes wide open. I'm both aware of and acknowledge the need for a substantial foundation. I drilled holes in the floor before my purchase and established that I do not have the recommended min 200 mm slab. I have saw cut the floor and will be cutting out the concrete at the main post positions and excavating to a depth of c.250mm. I will be undercutting the edges of the remaining slab so that the bending moments exerted by the loaded posts will be resisted by the surrounding existing slab. I will be drilling and grouting dowel bars into the edges of the surrounding slab to create a composite new/old construction. Concrete will be site mixed in a concrete mixer with mix proportions to min C30/20 strength at 28 days. I was a Civil Engineer throughout my whole career and am perfectly happy with what I will be constructing. Additionally, as a further belt and braces solution to the potential for the main posts overturning under load, with the tops of my posts being virtually flush with the garage ceiling (i.e. top height to which I can raise a car) I will be installing a 100 x 50 PFC steel channel between the posts to act as a strut, which will not limit my raising height. I trust this convinces you that the TRR will not be publishing my obituary resulting from a demise under a collapsed car/2 post lift any time soon. Dave McD
  11. Rob, Like you, with my advancing years, I have become less and less enamoured with crawling under the cars on axle stands and trying to work in limited space. I've just bought a 2 post lift by Twin Busch. It's German with a UK depot at Kettering. Saw it at last Novembers' Classic Car Show at the NEC. £1200 inc VAT. Operates on normal domestic electrics via 16Amp supply. Very substantial construction. Still got to finish installation but looking forward to the ease of using it. I also have limited headroom so I've had to position it so that the car cockpit area fits between 2 roof joists to maximise clearance. I should end up with approx. 1500 mm max. under the chassis, ideal for working from a rotating stool on castors. Dave McD
  12. I can confirm that my early USA TR6 (CC25332 L, Oct 1968) had 5 1/2 J wheels with the three studs for the Rostyle trim location, but no trims with it, when I bought it in 1997. Dave McD
  13. Michael, You have a PM. Dave McD
  14. Michael, I have a new CTM chassis to put under my TR5 restoration that I'm about to start. It is reinforced in all the places that I could see that need it and can't think of anything else that the USA chassis might have on it to further improve it. Be aware that CTM will want you to supply a pair of front turrets to build into a new chassis for you Dave McD
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