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Dave McDonald

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Dave McDonald last won the day on October 14 2019

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About Dave McDonald

  • Birthday 09/28/1947

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  • Location
    Retford, Notts

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  1. Andrew, The 300mm long PVC bar was only £4.00, so not an expensive experiment. Good luck. Let us know how you get on. It will be a long time before my car is restored and back on the road to try it out fully. Dave
  2. Graham, I had all the panels, including the bonnet, for my TR5 Soda Blasted late last year. It wasn't as rusty as yours but I was satisfied with the results and importantly no deformation of the panels. They are at Wolverhampton. See link below. https://www.sodablastingltd.co.uk/ Dave McD
  3. Rich, Those tiny screws are the sort of thing that Dave Gleed stocked on his stall with all those odds and sods on it at the International and Stoneleigh. Dave retired last year but I believe he sold his business and stock to Mike Papworth at Coventry. I don't have contact details for him but I'm sure someone on here will come along with them soon. Good hunting. Dave McD
  4. I also got a 2nd hand Morris 1000 drive shaft from a scrap yard together with the diff in 1970 to make a quick fix to my 1961 Riley 1.5 back axle. Everything fitted but the diff ratio was very low compared to the original Riley 1.5 unit. Driving up the M1 from my first full time job in Bedford to home in Wakefield the engine was very busy and fuel consumption alarming but it got me home. Dave McD
  5. Nigel, Looking at the CCD website for the kit details it appears that it comes with a new crank damper with double pulley to drive the hydraulic pump, new front tubular cross member, presumably to provide extra clearance to the thicker damper, a new steering rack and new steering column to suit that rack. Is that all correct? Also, from the photos both on the CCD website and yours above, it appears that the standard fan extension from the damper will not clear the hydraulic ram on the new rack. Is that correct? I will be interested to hear your views of the system when you have completed the installation and start driving with it. Dave McD
  6. My TR5 has that style of mirror, on the drivers door only, when I bought it 23 years ago. Fine in the UK. I fitted one to the passenger door before my first trip to the Continent about a year later but have failed to get it adjusted correctly ever since. There just isn't enough rotation/tilt on the ball section. I've tried rotating the stalk in the door hole, I've tried the arm curved upwards and curved downwards. Makes no difference, can only see either sky or the hedges 10 feet away from the kerb, not what I want when I want to pull out on the Continent. Car currently under full restoration with doors, like everything else, soda blasted and primed. Considering having the 3/4" dia holes welded up and fitting something more workable but also looking to maintain period look. So how do the Tex mirrors fix? Dave McD As above, I decided to sort out the N/S Wingard door mirror alignment problem while the car is in primer. I realised that the mirror base needed to be rotated to give the correct alignment down the side of the car but that, due to lack of rotation range on the ball fixing on the mirror back, this resulted in it looking up into the sky. It needed tilting backwards/downwards to give the correct elevation. The technical assessment of how much tilt involved pieces of cardboard Shredded Wheat box. I found that about 4 mm of tilt was enough. I purchased a 30mm diameter bar of hard black PVC from a local plastics company drilled the centre and cut 2 wedges tapered from 2 - 6mm thick, one for the outside and one for the inside. See photo. This left just enough thread on the mirror stem to still get a secure fixing. This seems to have worked better than I could have imagined so I will persevere with the correct Wingard mirror. Dave McD
  7. I learnt to drive and passed my test in the family 1957 Hillman Minx, Reg ULB 856. 1390 cc 4 cylinder with column change with very low ratio first gear and handbrake on right side of drivers seat. My driving instructor (Dad) felt very uneasy about having absolutely no contact with any brake whatsoever during our early lessons. Ours was a series 1, like the one below. I think that's a series 11 above. Dave McD
  8. Iani, What air filter are you using with that air box? What is the small diameter reddy brown hose teeing off the servo vacuum pipe and curving back out of the picture towards the bulkhead area? Dave McD
  9. The photo of the other Healey, 3897 MX has a formidable looking triumvirate sat on the rear deck, particularly the lady behind the driver. I wouldn't want to pick a fight with her down a dark alley at night! Great period photos. Dave McD
  10. Michael, The finish on the assemblies looks good. Are they painted, if so what paint, or powder quoted? Going by the coating covering the bolt heads and washers have they been coated as a complete assembly or individual components? Dave McD
  11. I checked the Langlow product information on the tin which states it contains Dichloromethane and Methanol. Means nothing to me but it worked ok. Dave McD
  12. Hi Roy, Snetterton I believe? What year was that? Dave McD
  13. Richard, The only really clever bit that Goodparts supply is the hub adaptor plate to carry the calipers. The calipers and pads are standard Wilwood available from Rally Design in the UK. The rotors are from a road car I believe but can't remember which. To be fair, having put the engineering time into designing and manufacturing the adaptor plate, I can understand why Richard Good is protective of his business opportunities. I put them on my race car, 240 bhp and 890 kg, because I was changing rear drum linings virtually every race. I have Wilwood 4 pot calipers on the front with pads approx. 2.5 times bigger than the standard TR6 on 12" diameter vented discs and a brake bias bar to enable putting more brake onto the back axle. This was causing the rear drum linings to overheat and the lining surfaces were breaking up and crumbling, rather that wearing out. Changing to the rear discs hasn't particularly improved the actual brake performance dramatically but a set of pads, which are actually quite small, lasted for over 3 seasons and allowed me to stop worrying that the rear brakes might fail one day. So for the peace of mind I'm happy with the change. However, I would question whether they are of much benefit on a road car. I'm restoring my TR5 road car at the moment and will fit a front set of AP 4 pot calipers with vented discs, retain the standard master cylinder/servo and retain the rear drums. From previous experience with the race car when it wasn't developed to it's present level with quite a lot less power, I'm satisfied that will be fine on the road. Another relatively cheap front brake upgrade if you don't want to spend on AP or Wilwood systems is to fit 3 pot calipers from a V8 Rover P6. They fit direct onto the TR6 caliper mounts, take a pad approx. 40% larger than standard TR6 pad on a disc 11.5" diameter instead of the TR6 10 15/16" diameter, so a significantly bigger swept area. I ran these with standard m/c & servo for several seasons with good results, both performance and costs and with standard rear drums just with a harder lining. If you're still intent on rear discs see this link to another system using Nissan calipers and rotors and with a detailed drawing of the required adaptor plate. http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/TR6-Rear-Disc-Brakes.htm Dave McD
  14. Nothing more than I deserve! Dave
  15. Richard, There was a recent thread on this topic in the General Technical section - see link, also started by a Richard. I fitted them to my race TR6 several years ago and contributed to this thread. Have a read and if you have any more queries send me a PM. David McD
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