JochemsTR

Hello Dave, I replaced all instruments with Stack instruments incl. additional Oil Temperature... Jochem

When welding, only few points are required, no need for all around weld. Eliminating the warping of the flange. Brazing is DIY.

Which one did you buy (Brand, Model) and show us some pics please.

The aforementioned pistons have a 16,99 mm piston pin. In lieu of opening up piston, narrowing the rod head is also possible. Jochem

I did those measurements on a test bench using different clutch plates and bearings. The bearing is rather insignificant. Jochem

When welding is not possible, which would be the preferred method, brazing is #2.

In order for galvanic corrosion to work, both materials need to be far away from each other with their galvanic voltage. Combination of Magnesium and Gold is the worst. Aluminum lies directly to steel, but far from stainless steel. The bolt are rusted, but the washers beneath not. If these are stainless steel, then this could cause it. Replace them with zinc plated ones. Jochem

Try this: " The right hand trunnion and vertical link is right hand threaded (like a normal bolt), the left hand trunnion is left hand threaded (reversed threaded). When properly installed on the car, each trunnion will move up on the vertical link when rotated toward the front of the car. "

Hello Richard, adding two bearings at each end may sound great, but the system is not able to compensate any play, bend or tolerances. I installed the TR5, TR6 Throttle Countershaft Bearing Upgrade from Martin https://fredmillturnparts.com/parts-list-and-ordering/ The difference is, that the bearings are self aligning and can compensate for such this. The middle bushing is ignored. No need for Poly or anything else. In my opinion the best solution currently available. Cutting the shaft in half and putting couplings or other connections, I would never do such thing. You can

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Fair enough.... no use pursueing Jochem

I really do not want to overdo it on this topic, but I remain curious. and I am sure I am not the first one experimenting... Any ideas or thoughts regarding the outcome of installing such a fan in the air intake, so actively forcing air into the plenum? The fan would be controlled by the TPS Sensor, so no support during Idle, but rather during driving and WOT. Jochem PS Picture is a sample, ofcourse it runs with 12V

yes, I agree. Such suppliers are not really known here in germany.

no, that is due to the conversion from metric to imperial. 0.001" = 0,025 mm which is considered uncritical according to ORS

Thank you Tom, I called them....they have 0.811" ....they mentioned 0.001" is not considered critical.