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JochemsTR

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    543
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  • Location
    Germany, 88069 Tettnang
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 '73 - EFI

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  1. John delivered as promissed. Damper seems to be in acceptable shape....for a 50 year old part, pretty good. Thanks John!
  2. ofcourse....I sent you a PM. Jochem
  3. I had some trouble with the coils almost binding (1.55)....the "uprated" collars seem to work better but they are made from aluminium. And with the steel ones the collets do not sit deep enough. So I make them myself. The actual series will be made from titanium and/or quality steel with a better fit. The collars are larger in diameter so the spring is completely covered. If any interest, send me a PM. Jochem
  4. How old is your master? If one of the piston seals are worn, fluid is being transferred back into the reservoir.
  5. What is your opinion? 1. Keep it and use it as is, 2. Scrap it and buy a new one? 3. Refurbish it, where? I know Ed had some thoughts about minor damage to the external rubber, which does not really say anything about the internal rubber. I am a little hesitant sending the damper to "Damper Dudes" in the US. Eventhought they have a good reputation. But maybe there are some UK based companies who can refurbish. I am not looking into buying a new one, especially with the quality standards of some of the known suppliers. Unless someone has a true respectable source. Joche
  6. Yes, the original master will fit. The whole thing will shift about 2" forward, so you need to extend or redo some of the brake lines. For a LHD it was the lines from the PDWA to the Master which are just a few inches. Not sure RHD.
  7. The only reason I would buy the "bling-bling" is that most used covers are corroded and warped. I have currently 3 of them on my workbench 1. corroded and warped. TDC marking OK. 2. corroded. TDC marking off. 3. warped. TDC marking OK, slightly corroded. Trying to get at least one of them to match my requirements for my second engine.
  8. I like Gavin's setup too, but it still needs a functioning brake servo. Most issues are not with the amount of vacuum but with the brake servo itself.
  9. Volvo 960-940-740-760 with 8" diameter and 2 membranes. if mounted onto a RHD, you need to check my adapter. it probably needs mirroring. Cut a piece of wood and make a template out of my drawing. Take a piece of cardboard and make a 8" volume. Believe it or not, this is how I did it. Jochem
  10. coming back to this topic... I have a tubing from the valve cover and crankcase (fuelpump) into a catchtank. After reading some more, is there any particular advice on the inside diameter of the tubings? I have a 1/2" coming from the valve cover and 3/8" coming from the crankcase. I am planning to have a 3/8" all around and since valve cover and crankcase are connected with each other thru the internal engine, I do not expect much difference. Opinions? Jochem
  11. one of the best upgrades you can do to your car....I have it in combination with a modern master, larger rear, vented discs and Ferodo pads.
  12. let me know if you end up changing any dimensions so I can update my drawing if required.
  13. In this particular case (1) The volvo brake servo was taken apart, new studs welded and fork slightly offset welded. This is not something easily done, and can only be done with older brake servos.
  14. There are two options (1) Modifying the volvo brake servo to fit TR (2) Modifying the TR to fit Volvo Brake servo In the first pictures I posted, I made an adapter block which would fit onto the volvo brake servo (2). For a RHD the dimensions need to be checked. The installation I also have, the volvo brake servo was modified to fit onto the TR.
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