Jump to content

JochemsTR

Registered User
  • Content Count

    379
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

20 Excellent

Profile Information

  • Location
    Germany, 88069 Tettnang
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 '73

Recent Profile Visitors

670 profile views
  1. Hi Carsten, that is the problem....there is hardly any warning..... Groetjes Jochem
  2. Carsten, if you feel the hub might be the source, I would NOT drive the car before knowing the exact cause. I have seen broken hubs during track days and the driver was lucky not loosing its wheel. Could have been much worse. Jochem
  3. Hi Ed, not sure about the range....however, I would adjust the spring inside the PRV to open between 72 - 85 PSI.... maybe Ralf can give his input on this one.... Jochem
  4. Pressure Relief Valve in the engine: is located parallel to the oilfilter and should open around 72 PSI/5 Bar. Opening the valve gives way to the oil sump. So with a cold engine or high rpm the pressure remains under 72 PSI/5 bar. An Oil Filter with a Bypass is exactly as Ralf described it. Note the comment "...blocked due to neglect.."
  5. JochemsTR

    Handbraaake!

    this is what I meant....the pushrods have an aluminium tube (left side) and SS threaded slider with adjustment knob. Every few 1.000 mls the adjustment needs to be checked and the knob is turned pushing the pads out. The size is 6-8 mm in diameter...this sufficient... this push rod can be attached to your lever with a bolt (as you currently have it. and has a fork shape. It just needs to be a 2-piece design with a threaded adjustment knob.... If this does not work....then I am out of ideas... Jochem
  6. JochemsTR

    Handbraaake!

    Marco, I believe you can easily grind some few mm off from the lever to have more space to the hub. When the push bar, is actually a 6 mm push rod, you can make it adjustable and eliminate play. 6 mm rod should still fit. In modern cars a similar adjustment is required each few 1.000 mls. Try it? You are so close. Jochem
  7. yes, Phoenix 6-3-1.....in combination with ZS Strombergs and now EFI....
  8. before anyone asks....the shoe retainers were not forgotten
  9. John, I can only speak for the Fulllift Method. How did you locate the cam in its Fulllift position? You need a dial gauge on the cam follower, timing disc and approach the cam from both lobe sides. Are you sure you have Fulllift position? After Fulllift you turn your crank to 110 degrees. Now hang up the chain und turn around 2 times. Measure Fulllift again and check whether you are within the 110 degrees with a maximum offset of 2 degrees. If you have done all this, and there is still a retard.....your cam may not be to spec....is it a used cam? new from known suppliers? Jochem
  10. Hi John, from Kent Website: use your 110 degrees in following example: “What is 'Full lift' cam timing method? For many years the most commonly used method has involved establishing top dead center (TDC) as a datum (zero degrees) and positioning your camshaft with its inlet valve at maximum lift at a given position relative to this datum. For example take our Ford x/flow camshaft number 234 which has a quoted figure of inlet timing @ full lift = 103 degrees. This means that the inlet valve should be set to be fully open at 103 degrees after top dead center. Therefore using a protractor or timing disc you can establish 103 degrees after TDC and it is at this point that your inlet valve should be fully open. Minor adjustments from the standard timing point can be made with the aid of adjustable timing kits or an offset dowel. “ I hope this helps, if not let me know. Jochem
  11. I use the Fulllift method...which is at 105°.... try that.... The timing numbers are always considering VC. This actually means, reducing VC you can change your timing. Jochem
  12. JochemsTR

    Handbraaake!

    The cable running against the trailing arm is not so nice.....
  13. If you think there may be more wiring affected, replacing just one of them is not going to help you. Since you cannot be sure about the quality which is hidden behind the wrapping. You did such a great job with the EFI, why stop there? If you are not sure, replace the loom. Add some mods such as additional relais and replace the original fuse box with a modern fuse box. I spent about 120 hours on my loom, but I added three additional relais/fuse boxes, and replaced a few connectors. I have no worries anything electrical happening.....that is a good feeling driving around..... Jochem
  14. JochemsTR

    Handbraaake!

    The rear brake cylinder only has one piston pressing either to the rear or front (not both) (Left/Right), thus the need for sliding back and forth, regardless of the handbrake mechanism. If you want to get rid off this sliding feature, you need to replace the brake cylinder with a 2-piston cylinder (such as the Corsa or Citroen C1). But by doing this, you need to move the handbrake mechanism too, as modern cars have it. Jochem
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.