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Everything posted by JochemsTR

  1. Hello Dave, I replaced all instruments with Stack instruments incl. additional Oil Temperature... Jochem
  2. When welding, only few points are required, no need for all around weld. Eliminating the warping of the flange. Brazing is DIY.
  3. Which one did you buy (Brand, Model) and show us some pics please.
  4. The aforementioned pistons have a 16,99 mm piston pin. In lieu of opening up piston, narrowing the rod head is also possible. Jochem
  5. I did those measurements on a test bench using different clutch plates and bearings. The bearing is rather insignificant. Jochem
  6. When welding is not possible, which would be the preferred method, brazing is #2.
  7. In order for galvanic corrosion to work, both materials need to be far away from each other with their galvanic voltage. Combination of Magnesium and Gold is the worst. Aluminum lies directly to steel, but far from stainless steel. The bolt are rusted, but the washers beneath not. If these are stainless steel, then this could cause it. Replace them with zinc plated ones. Jochem
  8. Try this: " The right hand trunnion and vertical link is right hand threaded (like a normal bolt), the left hand trunnion is left hand threaded (reversed threaded). When properly installed on the car, each trunnion will move up on the vertical link when rotated toward the front of the car. "
  9. Hello Richard, adding two bearings at each end may sound great, but the system is not able to compensate any play, bend or tolerances. I installed the TR5, TR6 Throttle Countershaft Bearing Upgrade from Martin https://fredmillturnparts.com/parts-list-and-ordering/ The difference is, that the bearings are self aligning and can compensate for such this. The middle bushing is ignored. No need for Poly or anything else. In my opinion the best solution currently available. Cutting the shaft in half and putting couplings or other connections, I would never do such thing. You can
  10. Fair enough.... no use pursueing Jochem
  11. I really do not want to overdo it on this topic, but I remain curious. and I am sure I am not the first one experimenting... Any ideas or thoughts regarding the outcome of installing such a fan in the air intake, so actively forcing air into the plenum? The fan would be controlled by the TPS Sensor, so no support during Idle, but rather during driving and WOT. Jochem PS Picture is a sample, ofcourse it runs with 12V
  12. yes, I agree. Such suppliers are not really known here in germany.
  13. no, that is due to the conversion from metric to imperial. 0.001" = 0,025 mm which is considered uncritical according to ORS
  14. Thank you Tom, I called them....they have 0.811" ....they mentioned 0.001" is not considered critical.
  15. Layshaft from Rimmer.... Measurement 0.811811" I read the measurement should be dead on and should be 0.812204" so the Rimmer is 0.000393" undersize. Can anyone tell me whether this layshaft can be used, or find another source for this? Jochem
  16. So to summarize: A-Type OD and non-OD: removing towards the front. J-Type OD: removing towards the aft, with removing the diff in most cases necessary. Korrekt? Jochem
  17. Hello Andrew, look at this. He wrote an article and helped me with my 2.7L engine. As you can see, the majority of blocks can be bored upto 76.2 mm without any problems. After 77 it starts to be critical. The matter is not the bore, it is the quality of the material. On my block an ultrasonic test was conducted to make sure the material is in perfect condition. I ended up with 77 mm.
  18. I ordered some custom rods, great response and service. Lead time about 3 weeks. Manufactured in CH. Jochem
  19. I switched to Saab MCs.....but that is another story.
  20. Aftermarket prop shafts have different lengths. I had one where the compressed lenght would just fit between diff and gb. Result: vibration and not able to flex-extend. Cut the propshaft by about 1" - reweld - rebalance. I thought this was due to the gb being too much aft. It wasn't. I compared prop shafts lengths and they did differ. Removing the prop shaft towards the back with diff in place only works when the prop shaft is short enough, since it needs to go thru the t-shirt under an angle.
  21. You would think by cutting corners it is faster and easier....it seldom pays off. I remove the diff completely.....I gave up a long time ago....I now have the diff removed and installed in about 20 minutes---(ok make it 30 :-)) . Jochem
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