Ian Vincent

Peter, If the head has been modified to remove the shroud around the inlet valves, (perhaps because bigger inlet valves have been fitted) and the liners shaped to suit then the TR shop gasket won't fit and you need the Racetorations one. Rgds Ian

Agree, the Racetorations one does work well but at £150 by the time you have paid the VAT and had it delivered they are quite a lot of extra quids. Rgds Ian

It’s easy enough to measure the lift on each lobe of the cam with a dial gauge and then decide what to do. In the cost of running a car a cam isn’t expensive anyway. Rgds Ian

Maybe Tom posts here because the Alec's Inn area is for members only? Rgds Ian

Pete Cox would probably be a good place to start. PM me for his contact details. Rgds Ian

Bondarust is supplied by Bondaglass Voss Ltd, 156 Ravenscroft Road, Beckenham, Kent. You can find their contact details via Google. It is a resin based paint and I think it is water activated but it doesn't come from the same manufacturer as POR15. To the best of my knowledge it is only available in orange. It also contains zinc which means it is still effective when the paint film is broken. Rgds Ian

Agreed, when I rebuilt my engine I fitted a replacement tensioner only to find that when I had camshaft issues after very low mileage that apart from the camshaft the new tensioner was showing significant wear. Fortunately I still had the original and with a bit of grinding was able to replace it such that the chain was wearing on a previously unused area. Rgds Ian

I have a similar inlet set up to Andrew, although it is not as shiny. I have a 4a inlet manifold with HS6 carbs and a pair of chrome pancake air filters from a company called ANG. There are no inner wing problems and the set up seems to work well. My exhaust manifold came from Phoenix with a standard 24" rear box and I fabricated the 2" diameter pipework myself from a collection of bits I picked up at the International many years ago. I welded 3mm packers onto the clamping plate of the exhaust manifold to bring it up to the same thickness as the inlet manifold so that the clamps would get a good grip on it. Rgds Ian

And a belated Happy Christmas from me. Rgds Ian PS Where was the photo taken Iain?

This is how I attached my home made bracket. I don’t know how correct it is but it works for me.

It is attached to the RHS of the glovebox aperture (in a RHD car). There are two holes for the fixing in the return lip. I can post a photo later today. Rgds Ian

FWIW Bob, I balanced my flywheel and clutch myself. I bought a bronze bush that was an interference fit in the centre of the flywheel (I had to put the bush in the freezer and the flywheel in the oven to get it to fit), and a couple of small ball bearings that were a snug fit in the bush and had a 1/4" bore. I could spin the flywheel by hand and depending on how fast I spun it to start with it would keep going for up to 10 minutes before stopping. I was able to get a consistent reading for the heavy side and drilled a couple of holes to balance it. I then attached the clutch cover plate and repeated the process making sure I marked the alignment of the clutch cover plate. It seems to have worked. Rgds Ian

If Moss don't list it any more, it is the same box as a Triumph 2000 or 2500 Saloon. Chris Witor is specialist supplier of parts for those cars, he lists the clutch cross shaft as being available for £20. He also used to offer an uprated pin. Chris Witor website Rgds Ian

To answer your original question, I soda blasted my carbs and fuel pump and they came up a treat. Search on the forum do instructions on how to make a simple soda blaster. Rgds Ian

I drilled my holes in the sides of the chassis and sealed them with self tapping screws. I also drilled and tapped the front of the inner sill members so that I could insert the Lance in there as well. I didn’t use waxoil, I used the Bilt Hamber equivalent. Rgds Ian