Ian Vincent

As a PS on this topic, there was a post on the forum many moons ago by a forumite who had managed to re-install his fuel pump with the lever on the wrong side of the camshaft. It worked for a while until it broke the foot off the lever arm. Ever since then I have been very careful to ensure that the operating cam on the camshaft is pointing down when I am re-installing the pump. I also have a cut down spanner specifically for the task of removing the pump. It came as part of a bunch of spare parts with the car when I bought it so I can only assume the previous owner had problems with the fuel pump at some point. Rgds Ian

You mention that the slave cylinder is on the correct side according to the WSM. Be aware that the WSM shows the early car and in the later cars the slave cylinder should be located on the other side of the gearbox flange. Rgds Ian

The Bastuck steering slip rings will allow you to retain your normal control head with a rack conversion but the indicators won’t self return and the control head will spin with the steering wheel. Rgds Ian

I suspect someone will buy it (even at that price and probably not a TR owner but someone called Trevor) but I have never seen the point of ‘Personalised’ number plates. Rgds Ian

Where's the 'T'? Rgds Ian

Keith, I didn’t make it clear in my post. There is a tube welded into the box section at the rear that forms a path for the slightly smaller diameter tube to pass through and act as a spacer for the rear over rider support. Rgds Ian

I was recently corrected by Wayne on this point, it’s not called the IWE any longer, it’s the “Inter-Club Triumph Weekend”. Rgds Ian PS I did suggest it will be the IWE for me for a long time to come

Hi Keith, Mine pass through a tubular section in the rear box section and butt onto the chassis. I’m pretty sure that is the way it should be done. Rgds Ian

The part number suggests it is a standard TR 4 pot camshaft. Measure the lift and check against the table of cam specs that was recently posted on here by Roger H (I think). Rgds Ian

IIR BSP dimensions are for the internal diameter of the pipe. Rgds Ian

But do you need that extra coolant Bob? When we were doing the LBL Rally last year the temperature was in the high 20's or low 30's for most of the trip and it included going up and down both the Stelvio and the Gavia twice. At no time did the temperature gauge in my TR3a go significantly above the midway point and when it did the electric fan cut in and brought it down. I checked the coolant level every morning and it was always just covering the bottom of the neck. Rgds Ian PS I did have fuel vapourisation problems on one occasion though when I had to stop to wait for a large campervan coming the other way as we were approaching the summit of the Stelvio. PPS I also have a recored radiator with the starter handle holes removed

I have always thought that the extended neck on a sidescreen radiator is the expansion tank. Rgds Ian PS if I overfill mine it dumps the excess until the coolant is just covering the bottom of the neck when it’s cold. (Just like Roger said)

I would retorque it before you go Bob and to be honest it would be no big deal the check it when you come back. Rgds Ian

Noss Mayo? Rgds Ian

They don't need a dedicated 1/2" AF spanner, any 1/2" square drive socket will do. Yes it helps if you have the instructions but for TR's each click represents 2 thou so on my car it is 7 clicks for the inlets and 8 clicks for the exhausts. It does need a bit of practice to use but it is much quicker than feeler gauges, spanner and screwdriver and it compensates for worn rocker faces. I usually set them with the SPQR and then a quick check with the feeler gauge. But.... They are no longer as cheap as chips on Ebay, they are about £50 now. I bought my (admittedly well used example with a cracked case and missing one of the sockets, but including the instructions) for about a tenner a few years ago. Rgds Ian