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John McCormack

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John McCormack last won the day on December 11 2018

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About John McCormack

  • Birthday 10/20/1953

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  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    Short door TR2 daily driver owned since 1976 and a TR6 daily driver owned since 2016. I have completed restoration of my long door TR2 acquired in Jan 2017 so now have three driving TRs. The S&S34 has sold (with much sadness) but it does give more time for the cars.

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  1. Set it to factory first. Then drive it and advance the timing until you get slight pinging under load or at high revs. If you get pinging then back it off slightly until you don't. Before others argue this method I acknowledge that for some modified engines this might not be the best method. For a stock or nearly stock engine it will get you the best performance and economy without risking engine damage.
  2. 30psi oil pressure when hot at idle is OK. Anything below 50 hot and above 2000rpm is an engine rebuild, if not immediately it ain't far away.
  3. I never knew the TR6 vertical links were made for one side. On the TR2-3 they are the same both sides. A bit of handy information to know.
  4. You will find a generator will regularly charge at over 15 volts. Put your multimeter on it and check. I have seen over 16 volts with a low battery and a properly adjusted regulator. I was told afterwards that the system didn't like more than 14.2 volts.
  5. John, I'm interested in this. I put an Accuspark hall effect in my TR2 and the car ran fine for about 4,000 miles. It then refused to rev above about 3500rpm, missing and carrying on. The supplier sent me a new one free of charge and we overhauled the distributor at the same time. Same problem. I put the points back in and problem solved. The car has a generator/dynamo and I believed that this could be the problem. The Accuspark apparently doesn't like the higher voltages that generators charge at. I didn't change the plugs or leads. Can you expand on the plugs and leads as an issue with hall effect points?
  6. 95% of the time it is ignition. In this case I would replace the condensor first. It causes exactly these symptoms and it is cheap and easy to do. I carry a few spare condensors in my 'TR' travel bag for the TR2s (my 6 has electronic ignition.) If that doesn't sort it the coil is next. I carry a spare coil in the boot so can just swap it over. Then distributor cap for cracks and the centre lead is OK. Replace the points if fitted. Plug leads then plugs. Another one is the alternator, sometimes the car will start and run but if the alternator isn't producing the electrons at revs it can cause these symptoms. It is unlikely to be fuel but if all the above fails start there. Do it one thing at a time so you can identify what has failed.
  7. Yep, things are opening up here. Too slowly for my liking but it is what it is. I wouldn't be too concerned at a lack of oil from the top hole. It is probably because the shaft/rocker is worn and there isn't enough pressure left to get it to the top. If there is enough to keep the pushrod cup full it should be OK. The load on the shaft is at the bottom which should be lubricated. In due course get a new shaft and resleeve the rockers.
  8. TR6s have a common oil leak from the head gasket on the left hand side of the engine. My car has an oily engine on the left side above the PI gear towards the rear of the engine. It is a known issue and I ignore it. It isn't significant in the big scheme of things. You don't want to go into the external oil feed but I can't resist saying that a sound engine that isn't racing doesn't need such a mod. It does take oil from the lower end of the engine which needs it far more than rocker gear.
  9. Yes, oil everything so it is really lubricated as it goes together. When you have it all assembled get an oil can and cover the rocker shaft and rockers AND fill the pushrod cups with oil. Rather than spread oil everywhere trying to see if they are all flowing oil I took my car for a 10km drive and then took the rocker cover off. If all the pushrod cups were full of oil all was good. Or you can use rags to cover the engine and run it while you watch. I am really into these cars and own a TR6 and a couple of TR2s. They are simple to work on and great fun to drive. Belonging and contributing to a club is a great way to enjoy them.
  10. You will find that the pushrods will 'stick' to the cam follower down in the engine block. This is just suction because of the oil in the follower. It is a simple job to twist and rock the pushrod until the suction is broken. If you do lift a follower a bit of perseverance with the pushrod will get it down again. I didn't do anything to my slightly tarnished pushrod before putting it back in. If the cup in the pushrod end is discoloured, or pitted, replace the pushrod. They are cheap. When you replace it you will need to ensure you get the right length pushrod. The two PI models had different lengths and I am sure that there are numerous lengths and yours might be non standard due to the cam. Tappet gaps is also dependent on modifications so if they aren't too noisy and the car goes well they are probably ok. Put the rocker on making sure all the rocker pins are seated properly in the pushrod cups. This is critical. Then tighten it down progressively from the middle towards the ends. I think they are about 20 lb/ft torque. I do mine at 10-15 first and then do it to the correct torque, centre ones first and then the outer ones. I do slacken the rockers off first and then readjust them. Hope this helps. It is a straightforward job. The only problems I have had are a dislodged follower which went back down with prodding and not making sure the pins were in the pushrod cups. That is in 44 years of TR ownership (a TR2 I still have). Get those right and take your time. It is a satisfying task to complete yourself.
  11. Hi Colin, In normal operation the oil flows from the rocker hole down the rocker into the pushrod cup and overflows. With the general oil floating around in there the pushrod should be wet with oil. The blocked rocker oil gallery is probably why it has gone rusty. The pushrod should be ok if it isn't bent and the ends aren't pitted or discoloured. They get pitted and discoloured because of heat build up due to poor lubrication. Check the pushrod cup and if it is ok reinstall the pushrod. By rocker gaps I assume you mean the spaces between rockers along the rocker shaft, not the tappet gaps. I've never checked the gaps on the shaft, I just put the rockers and springs/spacers on the shaft and have never had a problem. Tappets I set to the 10 thou in the manual, a bit of a loose gap as all my TRs have run better with a very slightly bigger gap.
  12. Welcome from an Australian member. You have a very nice TR2 there. I have a soft spot for TR2s. Both are 1954 builds. The BRG (TS5038O) short door is the daily driver. The red long door (TS3732O) was restored over the last 3 years as close to original as I can get it. Both are very nice driving cars. Enjoy yours, they must be rare in Germany.
  13. I know I am repeating myself but it is crucial you have the oil hole in the rocker clear and oil flowing from it. Oil mist and spray in the rocker cover will not lubricate the rocker pin/pushrod cup. If this area is not wet wet with oil the rocker pin will quickly destroy the pin and pushrod cup. Clean the whole lot of the rocker gear and each rocker out with compressed air at high pressure and it will come good.
  14. The local TR Register has been importing shocks from Moss and due to the problems we have had with them we are now exploring other options. We don't have a lever arm shock absorber repairer here who can provide a long term option. While we are looking at overseas rebuilders the difficulty and cost of returning the old shocks makes it cumbersome and costly. We need to look at other non Moss suppliers of quality rear shocks. Can anybody provide good advice on the quality of shocks from other sources e.g. TRF, Rimmers, Revington, TR Shop etc etc.
  15. I must partly disagree with ntc, oil on the shaft is only part of the need for lubrication of the rockers. The pushrod and rocker ball pin need oil. The oil seeps down the rocker from the oil hole on the underside of the rocker. The cup on the end of the pushrod should be full of oil. If this runs dry the pushrod and rocker pin beat each other to death. It has happened twice on my TR6 although I saved the parts the 2nd time because I knew what was happening.
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