Jump to content

John McCormack

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    507
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

John McCormack last won the day on December 11 2018

John McCormack had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

21 Excellent

About John McCormack

  • Birthday 10/20/1953

Profile Information

  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    Short door TR2 daily driver owned since 1976 and a TR6 daily driver owned since 2016. I have completed restoration of my long door TR2 acquired in Jan 2017 so now have three driving TRs. Sailing my S&S34, which is for sale to give more time to the cars.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I'd love to have a 4 vent bonnet for my short door TR2 which has had a two vent bonnet since I bought it. Unfortunately it is a bit difficult to put it in a suitcase to Australia.
  2. I find the book adjustment gives too much play in the slave pushrod resulting in the symptoms you describe. I adjust it so there is just a very little amount of play in the slave pushrod, just enough so that the thrust race isn't touching the pressure plate with the clutch released.
  3. Don't laugh. You didn't put some diesel fuel in the tank by mistake. We had a TR3 that did this. The engine did run but backfiring and terribly rough. The plugs were all white.
  4. Difficult gear changes are most often caused by clutch adjustment. Bleed the clutch again and again. Air is often trapped in the top of the pipes. Adjust the clutch so that it has good pedal position at take up. Then get underneath and check pushrod clearance. If you still have changing issues then look further.
  5. I'm down under. Where and when do you need a hand?
  6. A fair price I think. I paid $8600 US for my long door in similar but dismantled condition. My car came with a beautifully rebuilt engine and lots of spares. My car now owes me net $43,000 US.
  7. The long door TR2, UK Reg PZ300 Comm No TS2321, that the late Jan Pearce rallied extensively is for sale downunder in Sydney. It is the car Jan used to preserve the actual Le Man car PKV374 when he felt it was getting too much use. I believe PZ300 is mentioned in Bill P's books. It is advertised on the TR Register Australia website and I am helping the owner, Jan's daughter, with the sale (purely as a favour). Someone might like it to return to the UK.
  8. My TR6 has Pertronix. It works fine. I installed electronic ignition on my TR2 and it worked well for a year or so then failed. They sent me a new set free of charge, it also failed. If your distributor is worn electronic does improve performance. The points gap and therefore spark and timing vary when the distributor spindle moves laterally. This can really reduce performance if the distributor is badly worn (as my TR2 one was). Electronic removes that issue. As Stuart says, if the distributor is in good condition there should be very little or no performance change between the two systems.
  9. Hi Roger, That is my aim. I can't see why it shouldn't work, the helicoil outside diameter is 8.334mm. I'll try to insert the helicoil without drilling the hole, do you think that would work
  10. Unfortunately with some use the bolts have lost their tension. It is still better than before I did anything but helicoils will be necessary on the front two bolts. On the positive side, those front bolts are the main source of the engine oil leaks. Once done it will have fixed 90% of the oil loss.
  11. After a couple of attempts I got the JB Weld to hold enough to get torque on the bolt. I have done a few 5km drives on a hot day, mainly city traffic but a few runs up to 4-4500 rpm, and it is dry. There was no torque at all on these bolts before so it should be improved. I'll see how it goes over the next few days.
  12. On one front one I used an M8 tap first and it didn't work well, not enough metal left to grip the bolt. I then used a generous amount of JB Weld on an M8 bolt which I screwed in, left for a few minutes and then gently unscrewed. I let it set until firm then put the M8 bolt back in but not tightened. Tomorrow I will see if it has set firm enough to give a reasonable torque. The other front one and the rear one torqued up reasonably (no torque wrench, I did it by feel as I have for the last 45 years) with an M8 bolt screwed in without any preparation. Previously these three bolts had no torque on them so this should improve things but I don't expect this will be a permanent solution (unless it works well).
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.