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John McCormack

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About John McCormack

  • Birthday 10/20/1953

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  • Location
    Sydney Australia
  • Cars Owned:
    Short door TR2 daily driver owned since 1976 and a TR6 daily driver owned since 2016. I have completed restoration of my long door TR2 acquired in Jan 2017 so now have three driving TRs. The S&S34 has sold (with much sadness) but it does give more time for the cars.

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  1. A drip or two is normal. The pipe is venting crankcase fumes so a bit of oil collecting in the pipe and dripping out after stopping is to be expected. If it is more than a drip or two it still might be normal. One of my TR2s has a new engine and after a long fast drive it will drop a drop or two. My daily driver might drop a drop or three.
  2. Even with electronic ignition the first place to look is ignition - coil, cap, leads and plugs plus all the connections. My TR6 had similar missing problems and it was a corroded connection on the electronic ignition. Previously it was been the coil and (on the TR2) condensor (the latter not relevant in your case). Replace the coil first as a likely culprit.
  3. Thanks all. I'll replace it for aesthetic reasons.
  4. Does anybody recognise this battery clamp bar? It came with the car and was on the car when the 2nd owner bought the car in 1966. I am the 3rd owner and believe there is a good chance it is of an original type.
  5. Thanks Tim, I suspect I had a similar problem with dirt and oil creating a gunge in the unsealed solenoid. The old solenoid cleaned up is working perfectly on the bench, I replaced the broken wire. I can't think of a logical alternative for it staying on. After the staying on experience the previous weekend it didn't do it again on the road. The dropping out was probably a coincidence occurring at the same time as the staying engaged. The connections were in poor condition and were the reason for it dropping out on bumpy roads. I took the car up to our regular coffee at Pie in t
  6. Back to my overdrive issue. Although it worked OK to start with it proved to be intermittent and would drop out on some bumpy roads. Sometimes when testing statically in the garage the overdrive did stay on. It never stayed on when driving. Off with the tunnel and after 20 or so years without attention there were a few suspect connections and the solenoid wire insulation was broken at the solenoid. The wire was so brittle it broke off from the solenoid when I tried to disconnect it at the bullet connector. In with a new solenoid. The rubber seal interfered with the operation wh
  7. Hi Bob, Am I to assume that chassis numbers were used at different times, or does the attachment examples indicate a later chassis has been used in a restoration. Z28 appears from TS2169L up to later 3As. Likewise Z24 has been used from very early to very late in sidescreen production.
  8. Thanks Ralph. I'm not good at electrics but I think I see your point, and I should have checked the wiring diagram rather than rely on my failing memory. I had forgotten that the switch and interlocks actually make the earth to complete the circuit. If it earths between the fuse box and dash switch the circuit will be made permanently. Further, if it shorts between the switch and interlocks it will stay engaged whenever the switch is made. Obviously a danger if you leave the switch in the engaged position and select reverse. Very valuable advice indeed.
  9. Thanks again Neil. The solenoid appears clean inside but I flushed it out with wd40 to make sure. The seal is long gone, I don't recall seeing one there for at least 10 years. I just googled images of the solenoid and it should have a seal as per your diagram. I can't see a seal listed separately. I can get a new solenoid through the Australian Register for a very reasonable price. As this one has been used for at least a decade without the seal a new one is warranted.
  10. Thanks Neil. My solenoid is open at the bottom, any rubber seal that might have been there is long gone. I suspect the solenoid has been there for 20 or more years. Further thinking on the issue also raises the possibility the od is sticking internally preventing the actuating arm dropping under its own weight when disengaged. Again, not likely as it would drop on bumpy roads, but a possibility.
  11. I'll keep that as an option thanks Ralph. The circuit should still be broken by the isolator switch when the box is out of 3rd or 4th. By my thinking there would need to be a power source between the isolator and the solenoid to keep the solenoid engaged electrically and there is no such source on that short wire to the solenoid. I haven't take the tunnel off yet, just been working from underneath. If I need to I will check the wiring throughout as you suggest.
  12. Hi Tim, I've been sailing for a few days so will play with it over the next few days. Unfortunately, it can't be a short in the solenoid wiring. Any short will cause the od to disengage. This problem was the od staying engaged when disconnected at the dashboard switch. The od needs power to stay engaged and there are no power sources downstream of the dash switch. I think Bob (Lebro above) and a few others theory of the solenoid being kept up by debris in the solenoid (which is open from the bottom) is most feasible. I have washed it out with WD40 so will see what happens o
  13. In Australia many of us use Castrol VMX80 for the box. It is excellent.
  14. Have you centred the jet? If not, probably best to look it up in the manual and do it by the book.
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