Ralph Whitaker

+1 I would take the jet tubes out and check they are clear. Problem starting sounds like classic weak mixture, will start but as soon as it does the pistons lift and lets more air in and the mixture goes weak. Ralph

I would think that would be OK. My own is a Clarke Industrial from Machine Mart, 3hp, 50litre tank, 14cfm. Cost £450 ish pre Covid, but see it is now over £700 for the same one, yikes. I find that with the smaller tank it obviously switches on and off more frequently, but is quicker to fill the tank again. I did all the painting on my car using this compressor and it kept up with my spray gun well. On the limit when using air tools though, only short bursts possible, but when using impact wrench it is generaly short bursts anyway, but the DA sander drained it. Ralph

Rob beat me to it, I had just been looking on ebay and came up with the same Durite relay. Or go with Rob`s other suggestion if you want the original look. Ralph

I can add to that Mahle OC21. A short filter that fits on my TTR3 spin on adapter. Good quality filter made in Austria and an OE supplier to auto makers. Have been using them for years on all my vehicles .

I had a brand new relay from one of the main suppliers, which looked original from the outside and was quite expensive. When it failed after 12 months I took it apart and found that inside was a tiny modern cube relay about the size of a sugar lump. The outer tin container was just to make it look like an original. I went to my local auto store and bought an accessory relay for about £5 and fitted that. Has been working fine for the last 3 years, and my overdrive gets used a lot as a 5th gear as I have the low 4.1 back axle fitted. Ralph

On the early type control box as shown above the fuse is not "in" the control box, it is quite visible on the outside connecting 2 terminals. To my knowledge there are no changeable fuses inside later control boxes.

Bin the Grosse jets. Caused me no end of flooding problems which were all sorted when I went back to standard . Ralph

Most filter elements are bonded in to the cases, there is a good chance that the drop has broken away some of the adhesive so it is probable that your filter has become partially detached. That would be like poking a hole through the filter element allowing unfiltered oil through and into the engine. Do you still feel happy leaving it on?, I know I wouldn`t. Ralph

Yes it is close but the sidescreens just miss them. Ralph

I never realised that there were different covers for the hood sticks. My car is a 3a and I was sent a cover with the long ears, so just added the missing peg to the B post. Ralph

Had a run on Sunday to my first show of the year at Elvington Air Museum. Great day and entry included to the museum. Lots of aircraft to drool over, but I had to take a photo of this. Surely designed by Gerry Anderson of Thunderbirds fame. Ralph

Mine has 12. In fact 14 if you include the ones under the corners of the hood sticks, though these were impossible to use with the cover I bought so I used them along the back edge instead, about 18 inches apart, to stop the cover billowing up. The pic makes it look as though these extra studs are right in the corner but they are not, they are 9 inches either side of centre. I attach these first, then put the hood sticks down and wrap the cover up and over to attach the back studs. Ralph

+1 That plastic plinth is the same as the fitting used on the Tex mirrors as seen on the red car. I just fitted one on the passenger side of my Dolomite. The plastic block and base gasket are held to the door with the self tappers and the mirror is then attached to the block with a grub screw. The originals had an alloy mounting block which was much better, but now we have these cheap plastic items. Somewhere I did read that they now have to be able to detach in case you hit a pedestrian which is why they are plastic, but I think this is just an excuse for cheapening the kit. Ralph

I would hesitate to use anything magnetic, the reason being that I used to use a couple of magnetic strips, the type usually seen in commercial kitchens for holding knives etc, on the inside of the back doors of my van. Very useful for holding screwdrivers etc. However it was not long before the shape of the magnets on the inside could be seen on the outside as they attracted minute particles of metal, presumably cast iron from brake drums and discs, which started to rust. Also could not be simply rinsed away with a hosepipe without first detaching the magnets from inside the panel. Just

I will check later but I am sure I have a picture of the tunnel mounted stalks, as I stated before the outer mounting I used one of the body mounting bolts which is a smaller diameter than ideal, certainly smaller diameter than the bolts supplied with the seat belt kit, but at least picks up on a stronger area. I had the advantage that all my body mounting bolts were new as I had only just put the car together, however I found later that it does interfere with the seal travel with standard seats and I cannot slide my seats fully back, by about 2 inches. As I am a shorty it doesn`t really both