Ralph Whitaker

Quite right, also TR7/8, TR6, Dolomite, Spitfire, and 2000 saloon range according to my research. Widely used in the seventies. I don`t know which my chap mixed for me. In some light it looks a perfect match for my sample, in others not so much. I once re-sprayed the bonnet of a Vauxhall viva for a customer. Looked fantastic, perfect match for his green paintwork, till it was parked under the old sodium street lights when it changed colour completely and turned an odd shade of yellow.

Please John, I had been browsing the 4/4a forum and forgot before posting, but it was intended for the 3a forum.

Hi Roger, the panel is a piece cut from the bottom of one of the doors during re-skinning. I compounded it to death to get back as far as pos to the original colour and have been using it as a colour chip. All the other paints are over the original green, but you are quite right in saying that the final colour can be influenced by the choice of primer colour, which I think should be dark grey for dark green.

Just about at the tearing my hair out stage (what I have left anyhow), I am unfortunate to have a 1960/61 3a in the mythical shade of Triumph Racing Green, the one where no codes or formulas seem to exist. I think triumph just mixed a load of odds and ends together and made up the name. Not being able to find anything online I went to my local auto store and went through the paint aerosols till I found one that appeared close, indeed I bought it and did a test piece and was quite happy with the match, a little darker but allowing for faded paint on my car, and as I am doing the whole car anyway I thought I had found a winner. It was supposed to be a match for Jaguar/Rover Brooklands Green, so I got a half litre mixed and ended up with the almost black offering on the left on my sample below. Missed by a mile. Next using Ral colour chips found 6012 (Black green) which looked very close, so had a half litre of that mixed, see light greyish tone on the right of sample. Another miss, though I have sprayed the underside of the shell in it as a base coat, and I have to admit it looks better on a big area. Today I went to a different paint shop, being too embarrassed to go back a third time to my original supplier, and the helpful chap there took some time and mixed me up Triumph BRG, code HAA/ or 75 depending on year you look at, and ended up with the colour centre top of my sample. A bit too green really, but pretty close to the model TR3a I sit opposite in my display cabinet. Interestingly the touch up paint that Rimmer Bros do (RX4030A) is the same for all versions of BRG from 1953 till the end of the TR6,Stag, Dolomite, and 2000/2500 ranges, so they must know something we don`t. Anyway, can`t afford to buy any more sample paints, so unless someone out there has found a definitive match for Triumph Racing Green, circa 1960, I am going to go with HAA/75. At least it is a Triumph colour. And to cap it all I have just realised I have posted this in the wrong forum, doh!. Not been my week.

Sorry to hijack this thread, but I was intrigued to see the paint chip sheet and list on this page. My car is a 60/61 3a, and the heritage build sheet lists the colour as Triumph racing green, which I had been led to believe was the same as British racing green. However it is clearly listed as a different colour as both appear on the sheet and look very different, although there is a slight discrepancy in the years. I am going to get some paint tomorrow to spray the underside of the car so will have to see what I am able to find out, although from what I can tell on the computer screen it looks very similar to Valencia blue as used on Heralds and Vitesses in the 60s. I have put a picture on which although the paint is badly oxidised does seem to have a bluish tint to it.

Thanks for the reply Russell, I was going to come to Stoneleigh but changed my mind due to the weather forecast. I hope those brave souls that do go today get back home safely. I will have a look at the other spare door in the back of the shed and see if there is anything left on it, if not I will be in touch for some of your re-pro items. Many thanks, Ralph.

As I thought. Bet this is one of those parts you can`t buy new. Might have to make it and file the square hole. Thanks guys.

Hi Guys (& gals), attached is a photo of all I have left of the inner door mech. I assume that I am missing some kind of teardrop shaped piece that fits the hole in the remaining lever but I cannot find any picture or reference in Moss etc. Handles are there with the shaft but don`t show any of the inner parts. If anyone can supply a pic of a complete mech for my reference I would be grateful.

Hi Roger, it looks as though I might have to make them. Even in the original parts book it only lists them as an assembly with the A pillar. A bit of a tricky folding exercise though. I might make them out of solid on the Bridgeport and bolt them in from the back.

No, not the straps themselves, but the attachment on the pillar. Its a little folded bracket that fits in from the back of the pillar. Want to do mine whilst the wings are off. Ralph

Hi, any one know where I could get the A pillar check strap brackets, both of mine are broken and look a bit awkward to make. Looked in Moss and Rimmers but all they seem to sell is the complete A piliar. It`s a 3a but I think the same bracket was used on many cars. Thanks.

If it is any consolation, this has also happened to a friends Mercedes and Merc have acknowledged its a problem affecting a certain number of their cars and have offered a full re-spray. So even they get it wrong sometimes.

Thank you Waldi for the quick reply, the engine is from a TR4, and I have just checked the parts book and it shows 4 half circle thrust bearings, 2 with locating tangs and 2 without sold as a set, so I am assuming that +5 thou of an inch must be the total for the set, in which case I can use half a standard set on one side and half an oversize set on the other (clutch side perhaps) which will bring the float down without going too small.

Hi guys, a bit of advise required please, just checked the end float on the crank with new standard thrusts and I have 8 thou (0.20mm) checked with a dial gauge. Workshop manual (Haynes) says between 4 and 6 thou is OK., so obviously a little too slack as it stands. Replacement sets come only in +5 or +10 but I am unclear whether that is the total for the set of 4 (ie 2.5thou per side) or whether all 4 in the set are 5 thou thicker. Would you leave them as they are, or use a +5 set which reduces the end float to 3thou, or ideally if the thrusts are 2.5 thicker in the set use standard one side and +2.5 on the other to give 5.5thou end float. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

The bracket is a cast ally one, Carl at TR Trader sells them, and the rack is modded TR7 with 1/2 inch UNF threads. I bought Classic Mini track rod ends which fit the rack, but I wasn`t happy that they fitted the taper in the steering arms correctly, however Mike says they do, so I will have another look at them. I was thinking that Spitfire (or Herald/Vitesse) might be more likely to have the same taper as the TR3. I do have a Vitesse so might nick a rod end of it to try.