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Ralph Whitaker

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About Ralph Whitaker

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  • Location
    Pontefract, West Yorkshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Currently 1938 Hillman 14 (awaiting patiently for restoration, been 30 years already), 1948 Hillman Minx (restored many years ago but last used 1990), 1968 Austin A35 van,( restored 2012 and used regularly), 1970 Triumph Vitesse convertible ( restored but not used as often as I should but ready to go), Current project 1960 Triumph TR3a. Also a collection of various grey porrige BSA m/cycles including 4 Bantams (1948 D1, `55 D3, `68 &`69 D14/4s) . 1955 C11G 250, and a few Dandy`s, Beagles, and an Ariel3 thrown in for good measure.

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  1. Get yourself a cone drill, or stepped drill. Very useful. Ralph
  2. A bit late now, but late model 3A and 3Bs for the American market only, had an additional inline fuse in the power supply cable from the light switch which protects the front and rear sidelights and the panel lights, my 1960 3A has it ( USA Import), and would be an easy upgrade. It must have been a US requirement, but why it was never included from the start on all cars I don`t know, after all an inline fuse holder and fuse wouldn`t break the bank I`m sure. The turn signals and brake light wiring is protected by the main fuse box ignition controlled side. Ralph
  3. I would have to shorten the outer cable, otherwise applying the choke would simply move the outer cable until it contacted the clamping nut of the inner cable. Ralph
  4. I am guessing for originality sake, although the rack is not original anyway, and let`s face it, the mechanical fans rarely go wrong. Ralph
  5. I have an original one on my outside light. Yes, it is wired to an infra red sensor so the headlights come on, and a light behind the grill. Now I know they can be restored I may have to remove it. Ralph
  6. Hello Peter, welcome to the forum, In most cases fitting a steering rack also means fitting an electric fan as you have discovered, but usually accompanied by a narrow belt conversion too, the reason being that the original fan and extension turned out to be a very good vibration damper for the crankshaft, and the narrow belt conversion includes a 2 part rubber bonded lower pulley harmonic balancer which does the same job. Having said all that, there are certain rack conversions available ( I think it may be the ones using a Mini rack) which do purport to enable the original fan to b
  7. Mine is fixed to the metal dash and not in the centre panel. Makes removing the centre panel easier and straightens out the wire run. The hole where the choke used to be now used for my windscreen washers. It has placed the choke knob slightly behind the wheel which does not help access, having to put one hand through the wheel and one hand behind the wheel to get sufficient pull on the choke knob. Ralph
  8. Welcome James, I would not think that the holes you suggest would weaken the inner sills, as long as they are in good condition now and you are not closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, so to speak. A bit of preventative medicine now is easier than fitting new inner sills. Ralph
  9. Remember the tank has to vent both ways, you are not only allowing air in as the fuel is used, but on hot days you are allowing pressure out too. Ralph
  10. I think all 3 examples that David quoted at the start of this thread were overpriced to start with. Take the TR3 for example, just because it has cost you £42,000 to restore does not make it worth £42,000, as the owner found out. But then when the price is reduced dramatically to £25,000, I for one start to wonder what is wrong with it, and there becomes a stigma attached. Had it been advertised at the "proper" price to start with it would probably have sold. Ralph
  11. I think they are simply not as desirable as they were a few years ago. The current crop of buyers are favouring a more civilised classic that keeps the wife happy such as TR4s etc. Also a nostalgia thing, there are less buyers around that always wanted a TR2/3 when they were younger. Ralph
  12. Tends to sell bits on ebay, where I found the gaiter (only had 2 left so be quick), but I have heard good reports from him for years, started with small chassis Triumphs years ago. Ralph
  13. Just received a new gearlever gaiter from Moss. Packaged differently with both the invoice address and the delivery address showing, guess which one it went to, yes the invoice address. Different invoicing and no return label, which is a shame because it is going straight back to them. Shoddily made with one side paper thin and the small hole for the lever badly finished and looking like it has already had a repair with some black silicone. It seems there is no quality control anymore. My last one came from Chic Doig and was a perfect fit and well made, so I have ordered another fro
  14. Thanks Guys, lots to consider there. I took the inner wire out tonight and straightened and greased it, and it is now marginally better. Mine is also a turn to lock, a spare from my vitesse. I think I will try greasing the linkages next. Ralph
  15. I have been trying to fix my choke mech so it doesn`t need 2 hands to pull the knob out, I have routed the cable as directly as I can to avoid kinks. When disconnected the piano wire moves easily inside the outer cable, but as soon as connected it is back to being almost impossible to pull out. Am I alone in this, I can`t believe they were like this when new. Ralph
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