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Opie

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About Opie

  • Birthday 06/01/1948

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  • Location
    New Hanover County, North Carolina, USA
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3A

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  1. Please wait while image is uploading... I wanted to show my transmission cover hole that I cut to get to the stud on my new LMS006, WOSP, high torque starter. I can not possibly be more pleased. I needed the quick revolutions to start my old engine. My TR3A feels like a kid again. (on edit, I can't get pic to load. I will read the forum rules and get back here later.)
  2. I ordered a high torque starter, LMS006, by WOSP. I finished my carb repairs. The TR3 starts like a showroom modern auto. High speed starter revolutions make my starting woes a thing of the past. I did the Italian tuneup and no better results. My engine is just plain worn. But, this is the conclusion of this thread for me. I won't use all caps to say it, but imagine me doing so. "My low compression TR3A engine, with a new high torque starter, solves 100% of my problems. I still have plenty of power for the road and a quick starter button push, cold weather tested, gets me going
  3. old topic. .... but, here's my question. Bought a WOSP LSM006 for my TR3A. There is a fitted stud on the topmost side that requires a nut and washer once installed. Can anyone tell me how to get the nut tightened? I can not figure out a way to get a socket or wrench on the nut to tighten. The transmission cover is right on it and access from below seems impossible.
  4. Mick and Rob, et al, I am still planning to do the hard run. But I fiddled with the carbs for bad reasons and got bad results and finally messed up the cork gland washers inside the jet. So, that has delayed me. Yesterday, after putting the new carb bits back together I tried to start and my starter froze up with a loud clank. Smoke started billowing out. I have three fire extinguishers but in my frantic frame of mind, I couldn't find them. My wife had a half-full 3 gallon garden bucket on the driveway, so I grabbed it and poured it into the engine over the smoking starter because I
  5. Stuart, I have taken your TBH recommendation. I will use a standard needle and seat from now on. Thanks.
  6. Thanks Rob, I measured my lid and pin and know what I have now. My pic does not show it maybe, but I have been using Gross Jets instead of a needle. I researched tonight and found my problem. I must have thrown away the washers that GrossJet sends along with the Jet. The washers are to be used to raise the jet upwards to match your carb. Huh! I didn't do that and that is why I had to bend the dickens out of the fork. what I found --- """"3. To compensate for the short valve, the mfg includes 4 fibre washers in each valve envelope. For the long ear float lid, use all 4 washers
  7. I was going through a carb issue when I decided to go back to basics as many of you recommend on all issues. My TR3 owner's manual shows a needle and seat assembly that is taller than the one I bought 15 years ago from Moss. I am ordering new ones today. This post is just to state that the vertical dimension of the seat assembly may have different sizes that cause the owner to bend the fork too much.
  8. Feb 3. The trouble with open forums is that a shade tree mechanic like me can get something wrong and then think he is right and boast on-line that he "discovered" something. Well, when I threw away the good SU practice of setting the float level at 7/16", I thought I did something wonderful. The TR started easily and idled great during a 10 minute tick-over. But, today, on the way to the petrol station to fill up prior to a hard run, the TR could barely run on the open road. I did get it home and I won't go into the details but I was seriously flooding the engine. So, I will go back
  9. Question to Mick, Tomorrow is warm here. Would it make any difference if I hit-it-hard on a 45 mph road in third gear or will it take going on a 70 mph road in 4th gear?
  10. Sorry. I am afflicted with I-like-to-talk-a-lot syndrome. My wife reminds me often. I'll hold off posting anything more until I fulfill Mick's hit-it-hard on the highway request. Opie
  11. One more observation: Over the years, I set my carb mixture setting very carefully. Before I began the float level adjustment, the mixture setting was exactly per the book, then lifting the pin on the carb piston, etc, etc. In my recent text above, entered this morning, I adjusted the float to cause the fuel level to move up between 3/16" and 5/16". That increased height of fuel helped my inadequate air flow to aspirate more fuel into engine and my car cold started on second try whereas it had not done so for years (about 40 deg F). The observation I want to make now is that I assu
  12. Mick, I knew I was not getting enough fuel, but I thought that the "other side" of low compression meant "low suction" on intake stroke and, because I had "low suction," the manifold was not negative enough because of the bad rings and that in turn caused insufficient pull on the fuel aspiration. So, yes, spraying would have started my car but that is no way to live. However, I now have reason to believe that I now can both, start car and have low compression.
  13. Peter W, I will do the Seafoam treatment. thanks
  14. Edited because this is WRONG. Sorry. I hope I did not mess up anyone. I still thank Rob. It is all my fault that I over analyzed the issue. Rob H, I owe you a pint of Guinness!!!! I have posted two videos to prove how smart you are!!! I adjusted the choke linkage to get the jet down as you suggested, but the over-riding issue was my fuel level was way way down the jet tube as viewed from above with carb piston removed. I never would have checked it without your suggestion. I bent the lever in the carb bowl so that the fuel level was per SU specs. And the rest is histo
  15. Rob, (regarding choke) I kept looking and found one answer: from ( https://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetters-introduction """Operation of the cold start mixture control (7) will lower the jet down the needle (maximum movement 7/16" or 11 mm) exposing a large annulus and so providing the rich mixtures required for the cold start and initial 'warm up' period.""" Since mine is 3/8", it needs a 1/16" more lowering. I can't believe that will make much difference, but I will try, and also check fuel level inside jet to specifications: """The fuel level on an S.U. is not critical,
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