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dwaters

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  1. I too used to use chloroform. The surfaces to be glued were polished absolutely square and flat and held in place with tape, then the chloroform applied using a syringe and needle, capillary action would “suck” it into the joint. David
  2. While still trying to sort out the front panel and door fit, my TR3A has had many many “nicknames”. Sadly none of which are postable! David
  3. I’ll be there in a few mins....
  4. Oliver I had exactly the same problem recently (but on a 3A). The original dash was covered in vinyl and there were no clearance issues but with the glove box lid and capping rail now being clad in a thickish leather, the capping is very close to the glovebox lid as there are several thicknesses of leather involved that have resulted in the glovebox lid moving up towards the capping. There was a 3-4 mm interference. I “solved” this by dismantling the glovebox lid, unpicking the leather and slightly re-profiling both the plywood and the aluminium backing plate. I also had to reduce the th
  5. My main beam indicator (with red lens) uses an LLB987 but I had to try several bulbs before I got one with the right diameter and the correct thread profile to fit in the pressed screw threads on the 60 year old bulb holder. Yes, it’s classed as an E10 or MES thread but manufacturing tolerances seem to vary. Most of the new ones I tried had too large a cap diameter and too poorly defined threads to fit. And very unhelpfully I don’t know which supplier the successful little green box came from, so I’ll have to go through it all again next time! David
  6. Hi Mick Yes, you’re absolutely right, I stand corrected Dum-dum caulk is not obsolete as it is possible to get hold of an old tub and it’s still widely considered as the best product to use. But, my understanding is that it’s manufacturer, who I can’t afford to mention here, had “problems” with its Dum-Dum products due to the alleged inclusion of asbestos and stopped making it. I’ve been trying to find an equivalent for years and the 3M product is what I use now but fully accept it doesn’t have the same qualities of the Dum-Dum I used to use in the 80’s. David
  7. I use 3M 08568 body caulking strips instead of the obsolete Dumdum and find they work well, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3M-08568-Body-Caulking-Strips-6MMx300MM-Pack-60/113883903858?hash=item1a84027772:g:ZS8AAOSwanhdeAdm David
  8. Thanks Ian, that’s my evening sorted! Rgds David
  9. Hi Ralph When looking for BRG shade to paint my TR3A a few years ago I contacted Leonard Brooks Paint who I think are based in Essex. They very helpfully mixed up several different paint codes and sent me sprayed up samples on flexible cards which I took to one of the International Weekends in Malvern to try against all the 3A’s basking in the sun. The paint that in my opinion was the best match to the BRG TR’s on display was their (Brooks) 1970’s shade of cellulose BRG, Jaguar 254. It took 5ltrs, applied on top of a white primer filler and although perhaps not absolutely original, I’m
  10. Many thanks for the info Bob, the photos are really helpful. David
  11. Actually, this web would seem to be from a sheetweb spider and correct me if I’m wrong here, (and I’m sure someone more knowledgable will)but I think 1959 3A’s should have the later araneus diadematus garden spider fitted as standard between the dashboard and gearbox tunnel. I think Rimmer do a GUJ200 which might fit? David
  12. Most of you have probably already seen this film but just in case anyone hasn’t, CLTV ( the UK Sky and Freesat channel not the Chicago version) have been broadcasting archive Le Mans films. Last night I happened across the 1955 race featuring the TR2’s of Richardson, Dickson and Brooke. This was the year overshadowed by the horrendous tragic accident. Last nights film was a Standard Film Unit PR film whIch I hadn’t seen before and well worth looking out for on Catch-up if/when they repeat it. David
  13. ? Yes, for details please see my reply to your earlier posting on this. David
  14. I used Maldon Shot Blasting http://www.ctc-powder-coating.co.uk/contact-us/for the centre panel on my 3A dash and was really pleased with their quality and turn around. In my opinion the coating is much more consistent and more durable than anything I have ever managed to achieve using a rattle can. David
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