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About dpb

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  • Location
    isle of man
  • Cars Owned:
    GT6 mk3 swing-spring - Magenta, 1973
    Herald 13/60 convertible - Saffron, 1970
    TR4A IRS - Royal Blue, 1967

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  1. Thank you everyone. I'll worry about something else instead (dodgy horns).. Dave -===
  2. Hello, My car goes from cold to normal within a mile, then happily stays at normal for ever. My question is that this seems very quick to get up to temp, and suspect a stuck open thermostat. If it was stuck shut I would expect it to go over normal pretty quickly. What do you think? Is it normal? Thanks Dave ===
  3. dpb

    starter motor 4a

    Indeed it is Huddersfield. I will be watching from behind the sofa.
  4. dpb

    starter motor 4a

    good news - Forest won 3-2 on penalties - traumatic but exciting, wife thought i was having a heart attack. car news ---I read the article, makes a lot of sense. Quick check of my engine to chassis/body earth cable - bit frayed, very oily and dirty, and hard to get at. Other tests to be done this week. Thanks for all your help Dave ===
  5. dpb

    starter motor 4a

    Thanks all, I will check out the earthing connections, and maybe put a wire from battery to engine - I read that in some or other thread. My "chug" is such a slow sound - like it is barely struggling to lift a piston, but miraculously seems to start the engine. I will read that earthing article. Busy with Nottingham Forest on the telly at the moment. Cheers Dave ====
  6. Hello, An old topic I know, and have trawled through various past threads, but still have some questions. My starter motor/engine goes "chug" once, and the engine starts. Sometimes it takes three "chugs", as though the motor or battery is struggling a bit. I'm guessing this is not normal, I expected more of an engine turning-over sound. So I am thinking of getting a new starter. From the old threads TR shop sounds like a favourite supplier - is it still open? Their website looks out of date. And how about a nippon denso, they seem popular. Is there a particular
  7. Hello I just fitted a new calliper as the old, and original-looking one, had a stuck-out piston, and from earlier threads a new pair of callipers seemed the best option. My old pads had a bar through them and the calliper with a retaining clip. The new callipers came with long split pins where the bar would normally go. Is this a new thing, or should i use the old bars and retaining clips? Cheers Dave ====
  8. Not sure about the bearing carrier, but I have never changed it. Dave ====
  9. Did that test. As before, graunching stops when pedal depressed, and starts when let back up. The oil pressure did not change either way. Dave ====
  10. Well good news I guess, the cover plate is on the right way round. Still investigating.
  11. blanking plate --- well I guess its possible, but I haven't done it. Is there a way to check?
  12. thanks all As a first step I'll try the spring thing. Easiest first.. Dave ====
  13. Hi Dave Thanks very much for your reply. Definitely sounds like the gearbox then. Dave ====
  14. Hello I have a graunching noise when the engine is running, but the gear in neutral. if i press the clutch down the noise goes away, when i lift my foot up the graunch returns. I thought i would have a go at adjusting the clutch slave cylinder rod, hoping that it may have something to do with the noise. Just now I notice in the old haynes manual that it shows a spring from the slave cylinder to the fork. My car does not have one of these. So my multiple questions are a) what is the graunching noise caused by? Any ideas? and b) - should i have the spring? Seems
  15. I thought I would give this a try as I am heading to France in the summer. But, on trying to download it said "not available in your area". I am only in the isle of man. Who can fix this issue?
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