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ChrisR-4A last won the day on September 28

ChrisR-4A had the most liked content!

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About ChrisR-4A

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  • Birthday 06/10/1946

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  • Location
    Rochford Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A, Audi A3
    In the past, Alvis TD21, Jaguar MK2 3.4 Jaguar MK7 Turner 1200 Sports

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  1. I usually drive along with 1 or 2 other cars and flashing headlights in the mirror or a call over the CB does it for me. As long as I'm not tail end Charlie, but then as far as I know I never leave them on Chris
  2. Having read all the posts and conceeding to the opinion of the professionals who say new tyres on the rear I am left with the following observations. 1. Fitting new tyres on the back is good. 2. Moving rear tyres worn flat onto the front is bad, awful steering low grip. 3. Regularly changing all the tyres round to equalise the wear is the way to go so then no problem moving the rears to the front. Just a pain to do! 4. Alternatively always buy and fit 4 new tyres, ouch ! £££ Chris
  3. Roger, back to your original post, One of the mail reasons for build up of contaminants in the rocker cover and that creamy yellow sludge, is an engine running at too low an operating temperature as when used on frequent short journeys. The TR with the original crank mounted fan was under cooled when driven hard or in high ambient temperatures and over cooled on short trips and in winter. That’s why the TR will benefit from removal of the existing fan and the fitting of a thermostatically controlled electric fan. Chris
  4. Ref Z320 post (quote omitted) Agreed, but all modern engines use fuel injection, either direct or indirect and more often than not utilise turbocharging all of which combined with ECUs allows them to run with hitherto unheard of fuel to air ratios and higher combustion temperatures. These features render them far more capable of digesting the much smaller amounts of contaminants that they produce mainly due to modern synthetic oils with additives and finer engine build tolerances. Chris
  5. Maybe you are, but to understand how the PCV evolved you need to understand why it was designed in the first place. The TR4 would not meet the new US emission regulations so for the TR4A Triumph designed the PCV so the TR4A engine would digest its own pollution. The downside of this was that the engine was fed with all the corrosive gunge which the PCV separated out to the detriment of polluting the Engine instead of the Atmosphere and not helping the control of the fuel/air mixture. Interestingly for all competition applications the first thing to be removed from the engine was the PCV valve which was replaced with the snorkel tube from the TR4,block fitted to the TR4A block next to the fuel pump where the original hole is sealed by an easily removable core plug. When regulations were changed the snorkel and the rocker cover outlet were routed to catch tanks. The PCV valve contributes nothing to the performance or lifespan of the engine and is just another item which can fail (split diaphragm) and leave you stranded with maybe a clutch flooded in engine oil which will need replacing. Chris
  6. Or you could do yourself a favour and get rid of the awful pvc valve by venting the rocker cover either to atmosphere with a pipe down just past the chassis or to a catch tank. One less thing to go wrong and problem solved Chris
  7. Worth checking that the 2 accelerator pumps are both still squirting fuel otherwise the couple of pumps before starting is doing nothing. Chris
  8. Thanks for that Pete. I thought they looked and felt like it but as they seemed to be working and were in good visible condition I wasn't going to cut one up to check. Chris
  9. The question is are the floats hollow and capable of absorbing petrol, or are they a foam molding and will always float? Chris
  10. I could be wrong and stand to be corrected but I thought that if fitting 2 new tyres these should be fitted to the driven wheels, so in the case of all TRs this would be on the rear but for more modern front wheel drive cars then on the front. Chris
  11. Just to expand the above,. the shock absorber should have sufficient movement so when the swinging arm goes up it hits the bump stop before the shock bottoms out. If bought with a conversion kit the shocks should be ok but if replaced later may not be.there should be minimal stress on the part of the arm where the shock is, the spring pan should take most of the load. Chris
  12. Be interesting to know what it costs to get them set up for the triumph. Back in the mid 70s when I had a pair of 40s on a 1100 cc Honda bike I spent a load of dosh on main jets, air jets, choke tubes and venturis. Chris
  13. Hi Guys, I just fitted two new ones which are a perfect fit, came next day first class post from Moss and were only slightly more expensive than the ones I bought 5 years ago from a smaller London shop. What surprised me was how well the car was running with the damaged ones fitted, it still accelerated well up to 3ooo-4ooo rpm, I don't use much more very often and cruised at 65-70. Only the uneven tickover made me think something was wrong. I hope the new ones last longer than 5 years but if they do last 15-20 years that will be for someone else to discover. !!
  14. Hi Monty, some years ago I tried 1.7 deg on front of my 4A but reduced it down to 0.5 deg after 2 years, 7500 miles as tyres had excessive wear on inside edges. It drove fine with both settings. Have yours done many miles? Chris
  15. Hi all, I fitted two new Diaphragms to my CD 175s in 2015 . The carbs are in good condition as were bought as NOS in 2004. Since 2015 they have done nearly 15000 miles and following a spate of erratic tic over investigation found the rear diaphragm had a small 8mm vertical split. The front one was the same but while removing the front one it virtually fell apart. So the question is how long should they last, how long did yours last. Thanks, Chris
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