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jah

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About jah

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    Northamptonshire

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  1. jah

    Engine out

    Hi John I assume you mean the hump in the red square in picture 2 below. The engine does miss this when you lift it out. To refit the engine make sure your clutch plate is aligned with the bearing in the crankshaft. Place a piece of timber under the gear box & jack up the gearbox till it comes into contact with the bulkhead. The timber needs to protrude just enough to let the bottom of the rear engine plate rest on it as in the red square in picture 1. You may need to juggle the amount the wood sticks out. Lower the engine allowing the mainshaft to enter the pressure plate rest the bottom of the engine on the wood. This will keep the engine plate level with the bottom the gear box & with a bit moving the engine side to side & up & down it should slide up to the gearbox. Then you can lower the engine & gearbox together a bit to get your bolts in. This method as always worked for me so I hope this helps. Regards John
  2. jah

    Engine out

    Hi John If you remove the engine mountings you can lower the front of the engine making it easier to get at & remove the upper bell housing bolts. You will still have to remove the bar between the suspension turrets & the radiator. I don't remember dropping the steering rack when I did it. John
  3. PodOne

    Hi Jah

    Interested in the exhaust where are you located?

    Thanks

    Andy

  4. jah

    Limora Starter

    If you shorten the stud you can use a normal socket
  5. This happened to me turned out to be the rubber seal in the fuel cap did'nt have a breather hole. with a full tank engine would cut out after about 10 minutes of driving. the lower the fuel level in the tank longer the engine ran. Made a hole in the rubber seal & this cured all the the cutting out.
  6. I used a moss windscreen seal which fitted perfectly & a plastic trim from TRGB which fitted well. I also renewed the frame seal at the bottom this was from Tr shop & it was also a spot on fit. John
  7. jah

    Ignition wiring issues

    Try this :- 2 brown/white wires to No.3 tag. One goes to the ammeter & one to the column light switch. 3 White wires to No2 tag. One goes to ignition light, one to oil pressure warning light & the other to the fuse box. 1 White/red wire to No.1 tag. This feeds the the starter solinoid. Tag No4 is for a radio feed. John
  8. jah

    Ignition wiring issues

    I think there should be :- 2 brown/white wires to No.1 tag. One goes to the ammeter & one to the column light switch. 3 White wires to No2 tag. One goes to ignition light, one to oil pressure warning light & the other to the fuse box. 1 White/red wire to No.3 tag. This feeds the the starter solinoid. Tag No4 is for a radio feed. John
  9. jah

    Camshaft removal

    Hi Ian If I remember right, you do need to remove the MU and the dizzy housing in order to remove the drive gear. Then remove rad and front grill, slacken & remove engine mount bolts and jack engine up a bit so cam shaft clears the bottom of front panel. I think you also need to remove the cross bar between the turrets. You may have to undo the steering rack & move forward to remove the timing cover. John
  10. Andy If its an injection car check choke lever is not stuck on, the one at the back of the metering unit. John
  11. jah

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Ian Check your fuel cap has a breather hole in it John
  12. jah

    Coil Spring Rates?

    Hi Phil Could the rears be by Revingtons "650lb/in 81/4" (210mm)free length. Application TR2-6 Front. Coded with one YELLOW and one GREEN stripe.Modified Hillclimb, very Fast Road, and Race. These springs are offered in various lengths, as vehicle weight will influence ride height." The part numbers are also listed by Rimmers but are for standard springs with green marks to both sets. John
  13. Steve These were copied of the original steel pipes. But this is a 73 so may be different. John
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