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Everything posted by ChrisR-4A

  1. Hi Westy, the multi strand cables do not like being put into compression and in this respect are not as good as the solid type. Yours has obviously seen better days as it's well unravelled at the end. If removed from the outer I doubt you could ever get it back but the outer could be too long and is kinking when pushing the knob in. Get someone to look under the dash when you push it to check if there are any tight bends causing it to move and stop the cable from pushing in. Chris
  2. Great to see committee focussing on the important things, can't comment on Stafford but return to Malvern is most welcome. If only they would leave alone things that dont need any more meddling like the Forum, latest changes were unnecessary and retrograde. Chris
  3. This is clearly a bad move as far as new forum members are concerned. For those of us who have been on here for some time we know all the regular posters and their approx reputation score. Generally this score is taken as an indication as to the reliability of opinions an technical advice given by that member. Some advice often from low ranked contributors can be of doubtfull technical verification and may just be a personal opinion which could cause problems for the uninitiated. New members seeking help will now not have a clue as to what they reading is good advice or not based on the reputation of the poster. Posts risk becoming a slanging match between those with a solid background and sound knowledge and those with their own likes and fancies. Chris
  4. I also have Konis which came with the original conversion kit some years and miles ago and are still fine. If purchasing replacement shocks be sure they not only have the same fixings but the same dimensions. If the suspension bottoms out on the shock instead of allowing the spring to compress and it to eventually hit the bump stop this could snap the swinging arm. Chris
  5. Does anyone know the weight of the Daimler V8 compared to a 4cyl TR engine? Turner also designed the Triumph Bonneville twin hemi, another classic. Chris
  6. One point to consider is, all modern vehicle cigarette lighter sockets are hard wired into the vehicles electrical system and can provide quite a few amps output which many 12v accessories like vacuum cleaners, electric Jack's and electric tyre inflators may need as they can easily take 4-8amps on startup. Therefore if fitting a lighter socket to a TR you need to decide what it will be, or could be used for and rate the wiring directly from the battery with an independent fuse if more than 3/4 amps are likely to be needed. If however only a couple of items running off a USB converter are planned then linking to existing wiring should be OK with its own inline fuse of say 5amps. Personally I ran mine from a new take off from the aftermarket battery isolator switch with a 5amp inline fuse thus avoiding any extra load on the original car circuits. Chris
  7. Hi Rich, there have been many posts on the forum regarding the PCV, the majority in favour of removal. Mine went in the bin over 15 years ago and the engine breathes well using a straight pipe off the rocker cover and a TR4 Snorkel in the Crankcase below the fuel pump. The main reason not to fit the PCV is it improves nothing but adds about half a dozen extra parts to the engine of which the failure of any one of these parts could lead to a breakdown. Reliability is king. Chris
  8. An expert will be along any minute and correct me if I'm wrong but I think it works like this, The advance weights open to give more advance at higher revs for economy and performance modulated by the two small springs and the vacuum unit retards the ignition at low revs when engine is under load, like on a hill to prevent pinking. If a fairly standard engine runs ok without the vacuum unit then it must be set retarded to avoid pinking Chris ,
  9. Bad seal on inlet manifold to cyl head causing air leak when cold which seals itself up as inlet manifold expands. I had exact same on 4A a few years ago, it was the gaskets, got new ones and had to retorque the nuts 3 time over 2 weeks until it finally sealed
  10. As log as you have the one you want as a guide it's not too difficult to either swap the A/R weights and springs over or modify the weights to suit. May involve a bit of welding to increase the size of the weight if less advance is needed, or grinding if more. Chris
  11. Interesting, but it doesn't take much air in a home central heating system to make a radiator run cold, it's like turning a tap off, so a similar airlock in a car could easily stop the flow. The very small about 1cm bore hand pump for the suspension on my bike easily pumps 180 psi and that pressure will take a 75 kg rider! Chris
  12. There are some very cheap and poor quality fuses around of the old glass type, a search on the forum should show where to get the good ones. They are 3 or 4 times dearer than the cheapest but have the correct rating. Chris
  13. Until you can get a split pin through the hole, by which position the spring should be just tight enough so it doesn't rattle, I think. Chris
  14. Nothing wrong with using the earth side for a basic cut off, however I used the positive side so I could run a separate wire from the switched side of the cutout to a CB radio and a cigarette lighter socket with an inline fuse. This allows items to be powered when ignition is off but cutout is still on, then when leaving car with the cutout key everything is off. Chris
  15. ChrisR-4A


    Hi Jase, I've used my 4A in temps from zero up to 36 deg in France and never needed any form of heat shielding for the Strombergs. I do still run a Dynamo but with mostly LED lighting have never found this a problem. Chris
  16. Thanks Roger, that's the power of advertising, we never know we need something until we see it, Chris
  17. Hi Roger, ounds a really usefulI cheap mod, assume you fitted the flap while the heater was out the car, do you think it could be done in situ retaining the larger flap with some super strong Gorilla double sided tape or similar. How much larger is the new flap is 6cm all round enough? Chris
  18. Hi Jeff, do yourself a favour and whilst adding further complication to your set up, ie.the brake servo, remove a totally unnecessary item, ie, the PCV valve. Let the rocker cover breathe with a plain rubber pipe taken down to a point just lower than the sump in the airstream. Then you can use the PCV take off for the servo. One other point, a decent set of front disc pads, Hawke for example will give more gain than a servo, the currently available "standard" brake pads are pretty hopeless. Lots of info on this, just search the forum. Chris
  19. Hi Roger, I thought you used the smaller all metal UJ on lower end of column, or is that on your other car? Chris
  20. Hi David, if you check all above and still get water in footwell it could be the seals between the plenum and the air vent at rear of dash, this lines up closely with the drivers right knee. Chris
  21. Airlines on assembly lines are normally 1/2 ins but where high powered airtools are used like 1 ins drive impact tools or multi head tools then 3/4 ins airlines are usually specified. A normal garage compressor would not provide sufficient cfm at 90psi to feed the 3/4 line so a 1/2 ins line with standard quick connectors would feed most garage tools. If you increase the size of the compressor and the working pressure/cfm then more air can pass through the same hose. Roger is right as with an airline only about 20ft long there will be no benefit. Chris
  22. Hi Rich, +1 for the better servo as suggested by Stuart, also what brake pads are you using, I have a servo on my 4A but didn't appreciate how good the brakes could be until I fitted the Hawke brake pads, not cheap but a vast improvement. Hawke part no HB169F.560 Chris
  23. The top adjustment Strombergs were used on Stags and other later cars. 4As only had the bottom adjustment and solid needle. Chris
  24. Hi Dan, welcome to the forum, most items are covered by the above posts I would just like to add, 1. Make sure the rad cap has a large rubber seal where it seats on the upper rad lip, some being sold by Moss a short while ago had this missing, they promptly replaced one I bought but without the top seal the "draw back" will not happen. 2. Check the expansion pipe is clamped to the rad neck and there are no leaks or holes in it. As above draw back will not work Chris
  25. I can see that would do it John, but it would create a hell of a mess. The vibrating scraper with a heat gun will remove plate sized pieces with very little mess . Chris
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