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ChrisR-4A

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Everything posted by ChrisR-4A

  1. Be carefull if you have removed the bushes that the bores don't end up oversize especially if fitting poly bushes as they don't expand as much as rubber and could end up a loose fit. Chris
  2. Hi Paul, worth checking if it is the vinyl top which is causing the problem or the webbing straps which space the hoodframe hoops out. The webbing often shrinks when old if it has been wet. it can be extended or replaced. Chris
  3. Opie Oils, that’s where I get my Millers pistonease 20/50. Check out their EBay shop, (not always that easy to find) usually cheaper that direct and free delivery! Chris
  4. Yes Roger, mines an all steel UJ at rack end but can still get loose on splines if bolt is not tight enough. Chris
  5. The spigot on the rack has a scallop where the bolt that clamps the splined joint fixes, if the bolt is worn and is not clamped tight enough then the column can move in and out about 4/5 mm. Due to restricted access it’s not always easy to get this bolt tight enough. Also use a shouldered bolt not a screw and grade 8 if possible, you don’t want to snap the head off as the joint won’t come off then and access to drill it out is dire. Chris
  6. Great stuff, but if you go to the trouble of having the crank, rods, pistons, flywheel and clutch balanced don’t forget the prop shaft. They were balanced originally by Triumph but that was a long time ago. Also on a 4cyl TR either remove the fan and long extension and go electric or include these items to be balanced. That awful extension is frequently out of Ballance and I have seen many which due to errors in mounting run far from true. Chris
  7. Hi Keith, not sure where your 1/8 front toe in figure came from but in the 4A wsm which I expect is the same as tr5/250 it gives 1/16 toe in front wheels and rear wheels. This usually means a total of 1/16 measured between the wheel rims on the centre line which is half the 1/8 you mention. This agrees with Waldi's comment of 1/32 for each wheel on the rear. Chris
  8. Hi Roger, while talking wipers, have you tried the PIAA blade refill reference SKR52E from www.tdcautomotive.com. I recently fitted to my 4A and was surprised how much better than the rubber ones they are. Chris
  9. ChrisR-4A

    Wiper Blades

    Hi Phil, the Piaa blades come with two metal strips either side the rubber which make them the correct width to fit the original arms, the metal channel in your photo is not required and is discarded with the old blades. Your car may not have original length wiper blades fitted as the PIAA blade refills fit standard length blades. Chris
  10. All standard engines will benefit from having an advance/ retard vacuum connected to the distributor, only the injected engines had this removed and that was because with the fuel injection there is no vacuum in the inlet manifold for a suitable take off. Chris
  11. I may be missing something but, the oil pressure gauge reads 60 or 70 psi and it has a small inlet, I would of thought it’s the outlets back to the sump which determine the pressure at any given point. Therefore pressure at the rockers is determined by clearance between the rockers and the shaft and any other outlets like the endcaps, too many oversized/unwanted outlets would result in a drop in pressure to the rockers and your in trouble! Chris
  12. Hi Willie, don't drill them out, the roll pins are split along their length which provides tension to hold them in place, the end you can see is probably the end it was knocked in from. Remove with a hammer and suitable punch from other side. Chris
  13. There flat in one plane but usually have a right angle return edge about 6mm wide opposite the welded sides. This stops the flat plate flexing and adds strength. Chris
  14. At least with the cardboard and cissors Iain you will know there going to fit. When you do have a valid steel bracket make sure you position it so you have access for the welding nozzle from both sides.
  15. Hi Iain, before you look elsewhere check out this previous forum content : http://tr4a.weebly.com/chassis-strengthening-kit-welding.html The exact dimensions of the reinforcing brackets is not as important as the basic principal, if it ends up looking similar to the video then it should be ok. Having said that if someone has precise drawings then please add them. PS: I made my own, rule of thumb, 15 years ago and there ok so far. Regards Chris
  16. The above video suggests that the liners will all stick up the same amount, I supose it could happen but not very likely? Chris
  17. That’s surprising and worrying! Strange airflow. Maybe the Triumph design engineers knew best. Chris
  18. Mike, check the adjustment of the operating lever first it does need a small amount of play, more than spec rather than none to operate; also did you have any additional electrical load, ie: lights on for return journey. On a 4A all the power goes through the ammeter and if the wires on the back of the ammeter are not making good contact then not enough current will pass to operate the solenoid. Also check the rubber cover is not binding, add bit of grease to solenoid shaft. Chris
  19. Hi Pete, was that the bottom of the windscreen or the top! Chris
  20. My 65 UK TR4A doesn’t have one either and I can’t see as it’s really needed. The bonnet hinges at the front so the faster you are going the more the wind pressure is keeping it shut. I suspose if you could do 20mph or more in reverse then maybe it would blow open! Chris
  21. Hi James, sounds a good plan to me. If they end up driving well I would keep them, save your money on the Stromberg rebuild you may need it for something unforeseen. As they say, if the toast tastes good who cares who made the bread. Chris PS: Keep us posted with your progress, some photos would be great.
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