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About Bobbie

  • Birthday 07/03/1960

Profile Information

  • Location
    Coggeshall, Essex.
  • Cars Owned:
    1964 Austin Mini
    1970 Ford Capri MK1
    1968 Ford Escort MK1
    1975 Ford Cortina MK3
    1954 Triumph TR2
    1971 Triumph TR6

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  1. Hi Everyone, If any of you should be looking to buy a TR3a, be aware I have just listed on classifieds my newly completed car. Many more photos available on request, car comes with old log book, and invoices for parts and labour that are eye watering...... Regards Bob
  2. Thought I’d give an update, if only to help others in the future. I took the gearbox and overdrive out of the car, then separated them. within ten minutes established that: the operating valve is bent, the accumulator piston is stuck, the two metal strips holding in the operating pistons have both been bent, a large circlip, now in two pieces, dropped out. Finally, there was bronze coloured filings in the residual oil. Put all that together with the split solenoid mounting bracket, and something very bad has occurred...... I spoke with Dave at Overdrive spares in Rugby, who had seen all this before. Apparently if an overdrive is overhauled and then not used, or stored dry for a long time, mine was in excess of ten years, this can happen. The accumulator sticks, the clutches stick in the engaged position, the pressure continues to build, sometimes to well over 1000 psi. The weak point, before the casing splits, is the solenoid mounting bracket.....thankfully. Dave says that for some competition use pressure up to around 700 is not unheard of, but in my case whether the solenoid was energised or not, once switched in, however briefly, it stayed there. i took the overdrive to him, and now have it back, repaired, checked and adjusted. I just need to summon the motivation and get it back in the car! regards Bob.
  3. Hi everyone, Many thanks for the replies so far, I thought I would update with progress so far, and perhaps obtain more advice given what is now known. I have removed the gearbox tunnel, which has revealed that the od operating lever cannot be moved with the hand. The solenoid mounting plate has split, there is a gap of 5 maybe 6mm on the back edge lower down. No wonder there was a large oil leak, I suspect that all oil has now run out, as it continued to weep when parked up. Although the solenoid can be seen attempting to move the operating lever, this only occurs in 2nd,3rd and 4th gears, which electrically I find reassuring. The solenoid smells burnt, I suspect one of the coils may have overheated/failed. Initially I have ordered a replacement mounting plate, solenoid and associated O rings and gaskets. I will this afternoon remove the plate, Spring etc and hope no nasties are inside. Assuming not, my plan is to replace the mounting plate and adjust the solenoid correctly, something I initially didn't do, just checked the solenoid was working the operating lever. So, here's the question, could all of this be because the solenoid was incorrectly adjusted, and I attempted, albeit gently, reversing with the overdrive on. Regards Bob.
  4. Thanks for comments thus far everyone, I have unbolted the propshaft to enable pushing the car where I need it, basically out of the way of the front of my garage so I can get the up and over door down! The solenoid is drawing power as indicated by noise and the ammeter flicking. Reassuringly perhaps it will only do this in second third and top gears, not first or reverse. That said I think the overdrive may just be on all the time. When driving about today for the first time, it seemed much higher geared than my tr2. Something occurred as I reversed out of my drive onto the road, but once back can't move in reverse as reported. the overdrive, and indeed gearbox with engine were restored by a very well known tr restoration company, that said it was 10 years ago, I brought the car 3 years ago as an abandoned project, a huge meccano kit if you will. so huge oil leak from overdrive, and it is maybe stuck in engaged mode, any suggestions as to course of action? Regards Bob.
  5. Good evening everyone, reaching the end of a long restoration on my 1959 tr3a, I went for my maiden drive today, and all things considered not bad. bit more air to come out of the brakes me thinks, throttle sticks, oh dear the carpet is in the way, that aside it went well, and frankly seems much more refined than my 1954 TR2. However once home I noticed there is a large oil leak from the gearbox area, this appears to be where the solenoid housing joins the side of the overdrive, ok I'll add it to the snag list. I hasten to add, that although the solenoid clicks the overdrive doesn't work. worse is to come however, as now just manoeuvring the car in front of my garage, it won't go backwards! If I jack up the rear end, with one wheel off the ground, the other won't go rear Wards! Both off the ground and they will rotate, the other going opposite to the one turned. whats gone wrong, I've heard somewhere that the overdrive can lock, so I won't force anything as reverse gear does engage, but it is locked, any ideas? regards Bob.
  6. Brought my 3a interior from skinners last year, excellent quality, but quite a lengthy lead time for delivery.
  7. Hi peeps, When I restored my TR2 ts1067, I went for the original one window style. Motto build at Epsom created the entire interior and weather kit. The hood is burgundy mohair, and looks superb, I dread to think how much it individually cost to make. I've found in the last few years, that with good mirrors, I have never found a blind spot that has put me in danger on the road. Regards, bob.
  8. To confirm, my car is an early tr2 with the deeper mouth. What we felt was that the driving lamps and badges whilst reducing the facial area so to speak to direct windflow, moreover the effect was that these things deflected the wind up and over the bonnet. The difference was huge on my car. With a 74 degree thermostat fitted it actually ran too cold on a cool day with the heater on. I have now put the driving lamps only back, this has brought up the temperature by an average 15 degrees. My temperature gauge now sits between the lower intermediate line and the 185 degree marker. For me this is perfect, even in stationery traffic it takes a long time for the electric fan to come on. With the tr3a's air flow is obviously as critical, not deflecting and not restricting should both be scrutinised. Regards Bob.
  9. Some very useful advice already given, most of which I checked when my then recently restored TR2, overheated with almost no provocation. It used to drive me nuts, recored radiator, ceramic coated manifold, wrapped exhaust down pipe, water wetter et-al made almost no difference. On the advice of a fellow enthusiast, I removed my driving lamps and badges from the badge bar, hey presto! Instant resolution! I appreciate this is a TR3a with different shape apron, but check the cardboard cowl to the radiator is intact, and remove any obstruction that may interfere with wind flow. Regards Bob.
  10. Hi graham, I have the Remington kit fitted to my early TR2 and fitted the mini stalk like Tom. I have indicators, horn and dip/main beam on the stalk that I find very convenient, also an mgb gt LHD cowl will fit over the gubbins making it look very neat. Some cutting/fettling may be required but overall very satisfactory. Although you will need an electric fan, you can keep your Dynamo and wide belt if you wish.. Regards Bob.
  11. My early TR2 pipe was exactly as Stuart describes and affixed with clip to side of chassis. But in use I found that with a full tank I could chuck out what appeared to be the best part of a pint of fuel onto the road on a left hand bend and the general whiff from that vicinity was strong at times. I removed the pipe and simply capped the outlet hole on the tank, then drilled a small, probably 3mm hole in the filler cap rim underneath. Never had any issues, and no whiff anymore. Regards Bob.
  12. Hi Chris, Like you on my car TS1067 I found that many drivers simply didn't understand flashing red indicators and only one brake light. I drive my car all over Europe, as far down as Italy, and wanted some confidence that other road users would know my intentions. I drilled and affixed chrome motorcycle flashers to the overiders, they are close to the light clusters on each side. I have also wired the ex-indicator lamps up as brake lights and therefore under braking have three red lights now. Additionally I have changed the centre light and side light clusters for LED, any fellow TR driver behind me always comments on how bright they are, and unusually how instant they are. If I could ever fathom how to post a photo on here I would, but if you pm me your email address I'll gladly send you some pics, I think my additions look very, well original and in keeping with the general style of the car. Regards Bob.
  13. Had the same issues, removed gear-lever, clamped locating end in vice, using blow torch heated until cherry red, used extension pipe, bit of 22mm copper from memory to bend to angle and direction of my choice. Didn't crack the chrome, worked for me. Regards Bob.
  14. Hi Tony, I've done these a couple of times, but not the most experienced on here. Firstly cleanliness is everything, the liners MUST seal at the base and therefore the seating area cannot be too clean. Do not use any lubricant, the outer surfaces of the liners are after all surrounded by water when engine ready to go. Use well seal to seal onto the figure of eight gaskets, I have always used this, but some will recommended a loctite product they like. The protrusion of the liners above the block is critical, and this may influence which gasket you go for, the manual will give you the protrusion height, but they must all be within a strict tolerance, five thou was the height I recall but do check, when dry before final reassembly. I have used the steel gaskets, but I am told these can break down after time, maybe decades as the steel eventually rusts, where as this is not the case with the copper ones. In short, be scrupulous, don't use any lubricant, get liner height correct and consistent. Good luck! Regards Bob.
  15. Great photos, and interesting under bonnet shot...... My early long door TR2, Ts1067 has the double thermostat housing, but just a plain plate on top, with the radiator cap on the elongated neck of the radiator. I've not seen another with the cap mounted on the thermostat housing top plate, when did they change? Does this mean the early radiators had no upper access for filling etc? Bob.
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