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brian -r

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brian -r last won the day on February 12

brian -r had the most liked content!

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About brian -r

  • Birthday 06/08/1951

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  1. Only for the call of nature Tim PS .and maybe a beer
  2. Have a good day folks, I can't now join in the fun, hurt my back Friday and can't get in the car let alone out of it Brian
  3. Hoping to be there if it's not pee'ing down. May not get there before 11.30 - 12.00 though , dog must have his walk first . Brian
  4. Hi mickjj1 I recently replaced the static belts on my 6 with the same type as you are fitting ,you do have to bend and twist the stalk to fit the bolt also at the side of the seat. As long as you do not use undue force ( they will adjust with hand pressure) then that will be fine. The original Britax stalks that came off were bent in this way. Brian
  5. Sean, I have never bettered 22mpg with my 1970 6 in the 7years I've had it and it came with all new injection equipment. 800mls is not a lot on a new engine it may well be still a bit tight. I can remember the day's when cars of this era were new and many in the trade would not consider the engine's properly settled in until they had done at least 1,000 to 1,500 mls Brian
  6. Mixing it with all that high powered machinery in a Trabant takes some thinking about and a sense of humour . Must be fun. Great to see and more power to them Brian
  7. Tim That sort of picture is not allowed , it's abuse of a poor harmless TR most upsetting Bri
  8. It might be worth getting the metering unit and injectors overhauled and set up. Modern fuel can play havoc with the seals in older units. Neil Ferguson is the man, can be contacted as K Raven Smith on here. Brian
  9. Me neither, the only advantage of getting old is being yourself. Do as you please and say what you think ( for those of you in the UK:- VICTOR MELDREW RULES OK) Bri
  10. Thanks for posting Stan I really enjoyed that. PS. Hope you're not totally snowed in Brian
  11. Hi Peter Adding relays with an independent fused supply reduces the current flow through the switches and with a suitably rated relay allows maximum power to reach the lights. Old switches tend to have a resistance to current flow which causes heat and reduces available power, so the lights do not perform as well as they could. Brian
  12. I would disconnect the wires at the door switches first .The feed to the lights is permanently live and the circuit is made by the wires from the bulb to the switch being connected to the negative supply by the switch earthing to the body. For the lights to stay on the negative wire from the bulb must be connecting with the car bodywork at some point. If the fault was in the live positive wiring the fuse should blow. If disconnecting and insulating the wires at the door switches does not fix it , your problem will be in the wiring between the lights and the switches. Brian
  13. Hi Andy. The register have a brilliant disc available through the shop of a seminar about lead loading , It features our very own Stuart Edwards and has some very useful tips on what and what not materials to use. You will also find details in the members section of the register web site. The only people who to my knowledge supply a kit are Frost but there may well be others brian
  14. Lots of discussion and advice about it on here. Far more reasons not to use it in a classic than for. +2 for Bluecol. Brian
  15. Hi Gents Thank you all for your help. adhesive of any type is out so I will look at using just the plate or the stainless rivet option if I can find a supply in small quantities. Thanks brian
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