brian -r

Pete What a great read , I hope you soon get on the road and enjoy TR driving there's nothing like it. How nice to also hear what a great bunch of folks are in the Essex Group. Brian

Keith Have a look for MICC (mineral insulated coper cable) tools , electrical factors or fleabay. There were several sizes about which were hinged on one side with rollers that could be screwed down. The small current non PVC covered cable's were quite small so may fit your pipes. Alternatively we would drill a suitable sized hole in a block of softwood cut it in half and screw the two halves together over the cable, where working space was limited. Brian

A great site ,easy to navigate . Nice to see what you all get up to down south, well done folk's . Brian

Only for the call of nature Tim PS .and maybe a beer

Have a good day folks, I can't now join in the fun, hurt my back Friday and can't get in the car let alone out of it Brian

Hoping to be there if it's not pee'ing down. May not get there before 11.30 - 12.00 though , dog must have his walk first . Brian

Hi mickjj1 I recently replaced the static belts on my 6 with the same type as you are fitting ,you do have to bend and twist the stalk to fit the bolt also at the side of the seat. As long as you do not use undue force ( they will adjust with hand pressure) then that will be fine. The original Britax stalks that came off were bent in this way. Brian

Sean, I have never bettered 22mpg with my 1970 6 in the 7years I've had it and it came with all new injection equipment. 800mls is not a lot on a new engine it may well be still a bit tight. I can remember the day's when cars of this era were new and many in the trade would not consider the engine's properly settled in until they had done at least 1,000 to 1,500 mls Brian

Mixing it with all that high powered machinery in a Trabant takes some thinking about and a sense of humour . Must be fun. Great to see and more power to them Brian

Tim That sort of picture is not allowed , it's abuse of a poor harmless TR most upsetting Bri

It might be worth getting the metering unit and injectors overhauled and set up. Modern fuel can play havoc with the seals in older units. Neil Ferguson is the man, can be contacted as K Raven Smith on here. Brian

Me neither, the only advantage of getting old is being yourself. Do as you please and say what you think ( for those of you in the UK:- VICTOR MELDREW RULES OK) Bri

Thanks for posting Stan I really enjoyed that. PS. Hope you're not totally snowed in Brian

Hi Peter Adding relays with an independent fused supply reduces the current flow through the switches and with a suitably rated relay allows maximum power to reach the lights. Old switches tend to have a resistance to current flow which causes heat and reduces available power, so the lights do not perform as well as they could. Brian

I would disconnect the wires at the door switches first .The feed to the lights is permanently live and the circuit is made by the wires from the bulb to the switch being connected to the negative supply by the switch earthing to the body. For the lights to stay on the negative wire from the bulb must be connecting with the car bodywork at some point. If the fault was in the live positive wiring the fuse should blow. If disconnecting and insulating the wires at the door switches does not fix it , your problem will be in the wiring between the lights and the switches. Brian