keith1948

Hi Mike Connect one end of the link to earth so that the panel lights work. Without a proper earth, then when the lights are switched on, it will try to make an earth through possibly the speedo or tacho cables or some other unwanted route. All the dials are (should be) linked and the link earthed so all the panel lights work. Keith

Rob has just posted where the UJ's are on the steering column. Coming back to the earth suggestion., the bad earth I had was not on the horn push or relay or lighting but on the horns themselves. Each horn has a plus and minus (earth). Next to the right horn is a body earthing point. One of these was not earthing so when I pressed the horn push, the high beam warning light came on and the horns did not work. The relay was operating but the horns were not. A weird electrical fault. Keith

I had a very similar problem as this on my 4A. The horn is trying to earth through the high beam warning light. I traced the fault to a poor earth for the horns. In my case it was the right hand horn earth. I can't even begin to try to explain exactly what was the logic behind this fault. Check all your earth connections for both horns and see if that fixes it. Keith

Breath suitably held Keith

Just been reading that the Labour government are going to investigate the issue of glare from headlights. https://www.msn.com/en-gb/cars/news/government-will-conduct-independent-probe-into-root-cause-of-rise-in-drivers-being-dazzled-by-headlights/ar-AA1qgv7U?ocid=mailsignout&pc=U591&cvid=00eebf8eee9d4866b74ab7f331dde4e7&ei=28 Keith

I stick to a water based system simply because if you need to top up the system if the system suddenly springs a leak you can usually find some water even if you have to buy a bottle at a shop. Can't say that about glycol. Had a top hose split in the Dordogne area of France. Fitted the spare and topped up the system from a nearby stream. Got another replacement spare hose from a nearby Massey Ferguson dealer. Had a few problems trying to convince the people in the dealers that it was for a car so I took them outside to look at the engine and the top hose on the car. They were suitably impresse

Hello again Inge Maybe you could check the balance of the wheels yourself by doing something along the lines of this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZp__T4KKuA This would be only a rough guide but might indicate where the problem is. Maybe you could also bolt the brake drums onto the rear wheels and try to see what the balance was then. Of course the rear wheels could be positioned in one of 4 positions relative to the brake drums so a bit of experimenting. Also just an idea but if the brake drums were the problem what would happen if you swapped them left to right

Hi Inge Maybe you have excessive play in the wheel bearings. If the problem was at the front I would have expected you to feel the vibration through the steering wheel. Do you have access to a rolling road? Keith

I am with Ian and Jerry on this one. I have had a few crimped connectors come adrift on the TR over the years but never had a soldered connector wires break off as Bob describes. As a result I solder bullets as Ian describes and use the shrink on insulation where necessary. The main issue I have with bullet connectors is the rubber sleeve over the connector splitting over time. Had a few of those and had to replace the connectors. The bullet part was fine. Each to their own preference I guess Keith

Just a thought - check tyre pressures. Tyre pressure affects rolling radius and low pressure could affect mpg Keith.

Hi Roger Don't you mean as long as Possum-able?

Thanks for several ideas. Chris I think the original pipe is beyond repair or re-use. Hi Jerry. maybe a plain pipe might do the job. I have looked at coolers for other manufacturers that might work but nothing obvious so far. Hi Dale. I have trawled the internet all day and the only one that looks like the part is the one priced at £223 but is out of stock. The part number for that one is 1135702 which is described as compatible. The proper part is 1099269 but that too is unavailable. I have tried local motor factors and the main Ford dealer with no luck so could not even book the c

Unfortunately no. Mine is a 1.4 1999 Fiesta Ghia. I saw this but it is nothing like the one I want which is https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393395568586?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAB_7XZzvoYc3-nMqoBvxy2erGlaYz&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338723872&toolid=20006&customid=ByFOzRQgAAAAYyYd51wN17XBookIAAAAAA At an eye watering price but out of stock. Hence my work around solution. Keith

Not for a TR but for a MK4 Ford Fiesta. The power steering cooler pipe that runs in front of the radiator has corroded and is leaking. Cannot find either part number 1099269 or 1135702 that would fit anywhere. So plan B is to fit a stand alone power steering oil cooler (that looks a bit like the heater matrix for a TR but obviously built for pressure) and use some 10mm power steering hose to link it into where the old tube fits. The original is simply a length of pipe that runs across the front of the car in front of the radiator and back to drivers side so nothing particularly special. I did

Hi Telars Always start with simple before worrying about more complex reasons. From what you have said the cars drives ok but the temp gauge reads high. So step one is to make sure the reading is correct. As Bob and others have said - check/replace the voltage stabiliser. Make sure you get the correct one because +ve earth cars have a different one to -ve earth cars. As John has said, the fuel gauge would also be affected if it is the voltage stabiliser because both are connected to it. If that is ok move onto the gauge itself and the sender unit. Simpler to just replace but check co