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keith1948

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Just found a useful site - Transport for London - where you can check if your classic can enter the London Ultra Low Emission Zone https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/ultra-low-emission-zone/vrm-checker-ulez Just enter your registration and hopefully you will find that your classic is exempt. There is also a checker for the T-charge or emissions surcharge. Again hopefully you will find you are exempt. https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/emissions-surcharge/emissions-surcharge-checker However if I understand the rules you do have to pay the congestion charge. Maybe Roger Hogarth who lives in that part of the UK could confirm that. The congestion charge only applies in the centre of London and there are times and days (bank holidays and weekends, and weekdays between 1800 and 0700) when it does not apply. Keith
  2. Good afternoon Keith

    As a former practice manager (of one of the largest in Scotland), a GP practice has a legal requirement to ensure your information is correct.  Don't know who you contacted previously, but suggest you speak to / meet the manager.  They can highlight the "incorrect" information, but will have to have a clinician confirm a medical check before it is deleted.  There should be a note put in your file advising what was deleted & why to avoid any future problems of say insurance companies thinking your records had been tampered with to facilitate a claim.

    Regards Duncan

  3. Good afternoon Keith

    As a former practice manager (of one of the largest in Scotland), a GP practice has a legal requirement to ensure your information is correct.  Don't know who you contacted previously, but suggest you speak to / meet the manager.  They can highlight the "incorrect" information, but will have to have a clinician confirm a medical check before it is deleted.  There should be a note put in your file advising what was deleted & why to avoid any future problems of say insurance companies thinking your records had been tampered with to facilitate a claim.

    Regards Duncan

     

  4. keith1948

    Heater - sealed to plenum chamber or not

    I took apart the heater matrix on an old leaky unit a while ago. The 2 end boxes of the radiator part get filled up with sediment it seems because the design is not very good. Would have been much better if Triumph had done away with the end boxes and the flattened soldered channels between the two and used a coil of copper pipe instead inside the fins. Then it wouldn't silt up at the ends and resistance to flow would have been less resulting in a better unit. Also because of no soldered joints less likely to spring a leak. If I get a free week or two (unlikely) I might try to build a better heat exchanger using the fins from the old unit and some 10mm pipe with 15mm connectors to the heater pipes. If I succeed I will post the results. Keith
  5. keith1948

    Heater - sealed to plenum chamber or not

    Alternatively go to your local building supplies store and buy some extra thick 13mm x 8mm foam black self adhesive weatherstrip and you will have more than enough to last you and your friends a lifetime. Or use the rest you don't use for your house. Here in the UK there is a store called Screwfix - have a look at product code 40425 to see what I mean. https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip-black-3-5m/40425?_requestid=392872 Keith
  6. keith1948

    Anti Run on (ARO) Valve

    I had the problem of running on with my 4A but cured it with the cooler fast road spark plugs. I have an anti run on valve in the garage somewhere that came off an Austin Metro that I was going to fit to the TR but never did. Very occasionally it will run on but nothing like it did before. Depends on grade and make of fuel as well. Had lots of problems with the engine misfiring etc after filling up a few years ago in Brecon at a supermarket. (A friends car had same problem with fuel from same garage). Was ok after fresh fuel from a different supplier. Keith
  7. keith1948

    Dunlop M-Type wheel and TR4A "World" hubcaps

    Thanks Paul for info. Can't imagine my car ever looking as spotless as yours. Your wheels look really good. I did toy with the idea of doing the wheel colour same as the body as on early TR's but decided against it. Keith
  8. keith1948

    Dunlop M-Type wheel and TR4A "World" hubcaps

    Hello Paul Maybe silly question but I was thinking of getting wheels powder coated and using the steel embellishers as well. Did you decide to paint so you could touch up scratches or is paint better? Also my (TR6) wheels are silver grey at present. Don't know what the colour code is though. I like your steering wheel centre. Keith
  9. keith1948

    Tr4a handbrake lever extensions

    Hello Roger - Merry Christmas If only the job was that simple. Had several discussions with Phil Barnett on the design of the extension lever. The lever pivots on an arc on the pin in the backplate. The end of the brake cable also pivots on an arc from the fixing point on the trailing arm. Any extension of the lever arm needs to take this into consideration so that the extended lever can simply be connected to the end of the brake cable without any adjustment to the length of the cable. The mark 1 version simply extended the length of the lever which required quite a bit of adjustment (lengthening) of the cable. The mark 2 design was a slightly cranked lever which didn't need any adjustment. Here are a couple of diagrams I did at the time that hopefully explains it all. Hope you can open the pdf files. Keith img003.pdf img004.pdf
  10. There are 2 types of relay - normally closed and normally open. You should use normally open so when you operate the switch, the current to the relay switches it on and headlights should then come on. I did see once someone who had wired up a Ford Escort Mexico with normally closed relays but don't know how he got that to work. Headlights would have been always on until he switched the switch to switch them off - i.e. back to front. So power would have been on all the time through the switch - not a good idea at all. Hello to Ciao - in the UK it is a MOT test fail if main beam warning light isn't working correctly. Once I had a problem with my 4A. The headlamp main beam warning light came on when I pressed the horn. That turned out to be a bad earth on the horn and somehow it was earthing through the warning light. Took some time to figure that one out. Happy Christmas Keith
  11. keith1948

    Tr4a handbrake lever extensions

    Seems as if you can open the pdf if you sign in but doesn't open as a guest (i.e not signed in). Thanks Stuart for extra info. I'll look for the groove in the backplate when I get around to fitting the lever extensions. Keith
  12. keith1948

    Tr4a handbrake lever extensions

    Not attached a file before but hope this has worked. This is (hopefully) something I wrote a while ago for a TR friend who was having trouble with his handbrake. It is the handbrake mod on my 4A which works very well. Still haven't got around to fitting the lever extensions. It goes into how I set up the rear brake cables so it now sails through the MOT (and more importantly holds the car on steep hills) Keith Mmmm seems you might have to log in as a member to see attachment. Maybe someone can try this to see if they can open it. Not sure what I've done wrong but as I say - first time doing this. Just tried dragging word file across to see if that works. Ok that didn't work either so now trying it as a pdf file. Aaargh no luck with that either. Says I don't have permission to upload file either .doc or .pdf - Any ideas anyone? Improving TR4A.pdf
  13. keith1948

    Dunlop M-Type wheel and TR4A "World" hubcaps

    Hello Paul I have a set of the early TR6 5.5 inch rostyle hubs with shorter prongs fitted so was very interested to see your final result. Haven't got around to getting them powder coated yet though. I was also considering fitting the stainless wheel trims that were not fitted to the 4A. I have standard 5.5 inch TR6 wheels at present on the 4A with the stainless trims. Only concern I have with hubcaps is that they are easily removed by thieves and can fall off if you hit a pothole. Just wondering if anyone has invented a cunning anti theft device for hub caps (other than wiring them up to the mains). Also where did you find the centre for the steering wheel? Keith
  14. keith1948

    TR4A Wiper Wheel Boxes Refit

    When I first had my 4A (a 'converted' to RHD California car) it had 2 cranked arms resting to the left of the car. That arrangement we had for a while before I changed it to RHD format with one cranked and one straight resting on drivers side. I think the LHD arrangement seemed to be better at clearing the screen than the RHD. Either way the wipers are pretty useless. As Roger says whatever you do there seems to be an unswept part of the screen. Modern cars have generally flatter and larger screens which helps. Just had to 'adjust' the wiper arms on a Mini One to stop them making terrible noises. Using a couple of adjustable wrenches on each wiper arm, I bent the arms so that the blade was more at right angles to the screen and solved the problem. A dollop of Rain-X cleaner also helped remove the grease from the screen. Oh and I agree with others that the cranked arm is on the passenger side. Roger will remember the Colin Boother memorial run earlier this year. On the way back from that event we had a duck fly into the windscreen. Fortunately we were only going slowly so the duck flew off but one of the small rivets that hold the cranked arm onto the bottom part of the wiper arm had sheared off. After searching for a replacement rivet I eventually managed to source one. I used one from a broken guitar capo that just fitted and it is all back together now and wipers working again albeit in a different key - (musicians will get the joke!). Keith
  15. keith1948

    TR4 hardtop

    Just had a look at the U section metal strip that fits on rear edge of hardtop. Mine is 15mm deep, 8mm wide (outside measurement) and approx 5 or 6mm wide inside measurement. It is approx 1140 mm long. It just pushes on to the rear edge of the top. (When I say 'pushed' I mean it is a tight fit and is tapped on with a soft faced hammer.) You might be able to use the type of plastic "chrome" effect strip similar to that used on the old mini for the vertical seams. That simply pushed on as well. Problem will be finding this size of U channel since most seem to be smaller (e.g. Carbuildersolutions do one that is 12mm x 5mm). Good luck with that one. Keith
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