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keith1948

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Hi Andy Have you looked at Charlies post above. It seems lots of Volvos use this part number 383472 or part number 38403. There is a Volvo garage in Montpellier - just google "garage volvo montpellier" and it is on Rue Charles Lindeberg open until 7pm tonight tel +33 467 20 99 20 Good luck Keith
  2. Thanks Stuart Excellent answer. I have had round ones on for about 25 years or more so they have done well. However the clearance between the fan extension and steering rack is now only about 3mm so the 13mm thick fan belt won't slide between the two. The square mounts are about 3mm thicker than the round ones I have bought so might try them with a spacer to get a bit more height now I know which way round they fit. However not quite that simple because raising the front of the engine might mean I need to raise the radiator a bit as well and it might also result in a bit of adjustment of the exhaust pipe. Also fitting a spacer or two alters the geometry between the engine mounts since they are on an angle. Bit like a Rubiks cube - alter one bit and it affects other bits. Coming back to the original post (sorry Andy for side tracking) check the rear diff mountings. I had the offside (right hand side) front mounting split once and that caused diff to move about and make a clonking noise. Keith
  3. Hello Stuart Just debating whether to fit round or square engine mounts. Round are easy - no particular orientation needed. However looking at the square mounts.... 1. I assume the U-shaped side fits downwards onto chassis mount. 2. I then assume that the mount fits pointing up and down (long axis) rather than back to front. 3. Next question is, the studs are offset. So does the shorter or longer offset point up? The studs don't line up as on the round mounts (where both are in the centre). 4. Are the square ones better because if they fall apart, the U shape stops the engine dropping too far and causing the fan extension to foul the steering rack? Keith
  4. keith1948

    paint choice

    My 4A is Vauxhall Jade Green - the colour when I got it 30 years ago. It should be the drab Conifer Green. A lot of people go for a different racing green such as Jaguar Racing Green. I have often thought of having it changed back to the Conifer Green but I like the colour it is. I have seen some German TR's a similar colour to mine. From the colour chart above there is a British Racing Green and a Triumph Racing Green used at different times. I find that all the other colours fairly easy to identify but put two green cars together and they are rarely the same. In the 1960's it wasn't unusual to spray a car a different colour but now a non-standard colour is often frowned upon. Keith
  5. Hello Roger Tyres - the tacho/speedo were originally fitted to the car when crossplys were the norm. Now people run radials which have a different rolling radius. If both are under-reading then not the magnets. You can adjust the needle position of the speedo. The speedo can be checked against a gps or satnav. Personally I would try to do some research to try to work out what effect the tyres size are having on the readings before taking things to bits. The speedo will have the number 1185 on the face if it is the cross ply original version. At 60mph in top gear (no overdrive) the rpm is 3000. If that is the case then the instruments are reading in agreement. My speedo reads high. Not a problem because if I believe the readings then I am always below the speed limits. Also putting oil down the cables not a good idea. It usually ends up in the instrument and causes more problems. Different people will have different ideas but I pull out the cable, wipe it clean and then wipe with a lint free cloth or paper towel with thin oil on. Just enough to lubricate the surface with a thin (microscopic) layer. This is sufficient. Also make sure that the cables don't have any sharp bends. Keith
  6. Yes I would echo the above advice from Peter. At a well known car/cycle shop they have Dot 4, Dot 5 and Dot 5.1 together on the same shelf. When I have asked the assistants about them I have been told you can mix them all which is absolutely wrong. I have also been told that 5.1 is a better version of the other two which is also wrong. You can use Dot 4 and Dot 5.1 in your braking system as they are ethylene glycol based. Dot 5 however is silicone based and should not be mixed with the other types. So if you have Dot 5 then only use Dot 5. Dot 4 is fine for road use and I have used it for years. The chemistry experiments are fascinating by the way. The same shop yesterday had never heard of a 2BA spanner. I spent about 15 minutes explaining to the assistant about metric, imperial, BA and Whitworth spanners. I could have been talking in a foreign language. Sign of the times! Keith
  7. Hello Alan Any reason why Lucas decided to use a length of wire instead of a 10 ohm resistor? Keith p.s. Following your advice I also sleeve the 2 long bolts.
  8. Just had a look under my 4A. The front bumper attaches to two extensions to the front chassis. These extensions bolt onto the sides of the chassis and are adjustable. I had to adjust these on mine to get the bumper in correct place. Loosen bolts holding these to the chassis and the bolts for attaching the bumper that go through the valance. There are also bolts holding the valance to the front lower part of the wings. Loosen these. You should then be able to knock the valance down using a rubber faced hammer. Take care this does not rebound and hit you in the face (done that myself). What you need is the Birmingham screwdriver - what the production line workers called the 'big hammer'. Seriously though I would have thought that there is no need for drilling and welding if it fitted previously. Just needs some adjustment. Good luck Keith
  9. Rod My parents had underfloor heating. Not impressed with it at all. We have water filled radiators - much simpler and more effective in my opinion. Also not sure whether - if it is electric - that it is a good idea in houses prone to flooding to have underfloor heating. We removed anything under the floor that might corrode. Also no electric wires in the floor. I know of 2 properties (one a library) that had copper heating pipes under the floor that corroded and began to leak. If you have tile floors there is no reason why you can't have mats, rugs or rush matting on top. If there is underfloor insulation it should be ok. Our floors have no insulation so are cold but we live with it. Would have been a massive job to dig out the floors and we don't know what we might find underneath. I discovered a 12 foot deep well just by the back door. Anyway seems like you have moved on from the despair stage and now into the 'lets get it sorted' stage. As long as your claims from the insurance are reasonable then they will probably agree to what you want to do. Keith
  10. Hello Rod I know exactly where you are with all this. One loss assessor arrived to us (with his dinner stained shirt) and said 'if you look after me then I'll look after you" - in other words expecting a backhander to get us a fake claim. We sent him packing. Back to your situation. Kitchen units swelling = replacement on the insurance. Once wood swells and warps it is ruined. Do you really want to live with flood damaged units when you could have them replaced. Measuring up for carpets now is idiotic. We changed from wood blocks to tiles. If the floor needs replacing then you choose what you want and settle the difference if needed. Loss adjusters turning up 10 days later is not necessarily a bad thing because problems can develop over that time. (Corrosion of our underground gas pipe for example and swelling of door frames etc.). Do not 'clear up' until loss adjuster has seen damage but it is reasonable to pile up ruined furniture and appliances in the garden. Do not worry about appearing to gain betterment. You are in a terrible mess - just do what you need to do. If the washing machine, fridge freezer and oven have been under water then the electrics could well have been damaged especially if the circuit boards have been wet. Replace them. Yes it may seem to others that you are 'improving' but believe me - your premium will go up next year so don't feel guilty. The insurance companies will get their money back. After all you have been paying for years with no claims. Obviously trying to claim for a TR and replacing it with top of range Ferrari isn't on. If boiler has been damaged and is uneconomic to repair replace it with a new one mounted high up on a wall. You can get compact units that take up very little space. Drains in the road not connected - yes been there - road drains outside the house not connected to anything. Took me ages to get council to put a camera down to 'discover' what we already knew. Just keep at them and enlist help of local MP. Lime mortar - it is very important that any builders do not use ordinary mortar on an old building. We have lime mortar. It is softer than ordinary mortar and used on old stone and brick buildings. It also allows moisture to escape from the walls. Cement mortar traps moisture in the walls and will cause problems down the road. It is essential builders use lime mortar on your house. It shouldn't crumble when dried out. Personally I wouldn't replace wooden door frames and skirting with UPVC. It will look out of place in an old building. Just make sure that the walls are dry. Turn off the fans and dehumidifiers if you want a meal. 15 minutes or so silence and peace to make and eat a meal won't make any difference to the house drying out. The people who make claims for betterment doesn't apply to you. You are in a mess, you need help. We know all about living upstairs in a flood damaged house with fridge, washing machine and cooker up on bricks in the 'kitchen' or what was left of it. Try to take some time out to think about what you should do to improve to make the house more flood resilient and incorporate this into the repairs. Boiler off the floor for example, floor tiles instead of carpet (although this does make house colder unless you insulate the floor underneath). Finally go down the local pub for a meal to escape from the mess for a while. All the best Keith
  11. Hello Rod We have been flooded twice but did all the repair work ourselves except for a gas pipe that had to be replaced. Now we have no heating or gas pipes running under the floor where they can corrode unseen, all electric sockets are about 18 inches above the floor and 2/3 of the downstairs floors are flood resilient. Our village has also had over £1 million pounds worth of flood alleviation work done which seems to have worked. We didn't move out but it seems your damage could be worse than we had although the whole of the downstairs was affected. We saved all our furniture and carpets by moving them upstairs or raising them on bricks. You should do all you can to get the local authority to deal with the drain problems and get documentation of what they do. Also contact your local environment agency. Where we live we have obtained a statement from them which says that our house is now at the lowest risk of flooding following the flood alleviation work. Even so you should expect a big rise in your insurance premium. You might even struggle to get any insurance at all. We have had about 5 years of battles with insurance companies following our claims which were not very big at all. This is where you need all the documentary evidence that this is a one-off event and that remedial measures have been put in place. If the house has been flooded in the past then collect information about the flood measures taken since then. Flooded once is bad enough but if there is any history of flooding then in the future you might need to search for insurance companies that specialise in cover for these properties. The government flood-re insurance scheme only covers properties at greatest risk of flooding which our house isn't. Check to see if it includes your house but unless you live in a known high flood risk area then the government scheme will be of no use. Our battles to get the village flood measures went on for years involving our local MP and the secretary for the environment as well as questions in parliament. Unfortunately flood damage from storms are not treated by insurance companies the same as flood damage from a burst pipe even though the end result is pretty much the same. It is a very traumatic experience when it happens but it is possible to get the house sorted out relatively quickly. You say that the walls and skirting have been stripped out. I removed the skirting and wood block floors myself and then we waited for the dehumidifiers to reduce moisture levels before doing any more work. As a result we didn't have to remove hardly any plaster. Get a moisture meter so you can check what is happening. Try not to worry. If you can do any of the work yourself then that may speed things up. Claim for materials used. That is what we did. Also try to incorporate measures to prevent it happening again or reduce any future damage. We replaced 2 wood block floors for porcelain and ceramic tiles on the insurance. I also constructed a new drain in front of the house and constructed path edgings and flood barriers to keep water away from the house. You might be able to include the cost of flood resilience measures in your claim since you could argue that it would reduce any future claims. At least there should hopefully be some summer weather left so open all the doors and windows on dry days and turn the dehumidifiers off but keep the fans running. The dehumidifiers work best with the doors and windows closed (i.e. on wet days). At least that will give you a bit of respite from the noise. It can take a long time for moisture levels in the walls and floors to drop to an acceptable level so don't rush to re-plaster or lay floors. Also contact the local area council to see if they have a hardship fund for people who get flooded - ours did. See if you can get a rebate on your council tax - we did. If you have to move out because it is deemed 'uninhabitable' then get a reduction on the council tax. Anyway all the best. It does get better. 'Things' can be replaced. You will feel nervous for a while during heavy rain storms but this feeling goes away and if there is a 'next time' you will be better prepared both mentally and physically. Best wishes Keith
  12. Hello Roger From years of 'experience' of losing data I always back up important stuff on 2 separate hard drives. Why 2? Lets just say....'From years of 'experience' of losing data. Secondly I ditched Windows several years ago because I spent many long hours trying to recover information, wrestling with antivirus software that never seemed to work properly (one locked me out saying I was too young to surf the net) and performing 'defragmentation' that used to go on for hours. I have a Mac and everything works and has done for several years. Only had a couple of glitches but they were my own fault. I still back up though. Another tip is to have an organised filing system (says he who hasn't!) so you don't overwrite stuff you want to keep. Unfortunately it doesn't get any better as you get older and you accumulate more and more data. I thought I was doing well to get my email inbox below 1,000 recently but it is creeping up again. However I do know people who have over 40,000 emails in their inbox and others who have tens of thousands of photos- be warned. Keith
  13. My car is a USA import and the registration document therefore dates from date of import although somewhere it does state it is historic. To avoid any misunderstandings I got it FIVA registered so no arguments. Just wish I hadn't fixed the FIVA sticker to the windscreen though in case it ever gets broken. Would have been better to fix onto some perspex and fitted it into a licence holder fixed to the screen. However any policeman or official should be able to distinguish between an old TR and a modern Eurobox. In the past I have found that the police in France are more interested in looking the car and engine bay over and discussing horsepower and how much petrol it uses than booking you (always assuming you are not drunk or been driving dangerously beforehand - which I hadn't before you ask!). Friends I know who live in Germany and France don't have stickers for their cars. The exemptions for classic cars are not very well publicised. Keith
  14. Hello again Roger The 2 speed wiper circuit must be one of the most confusing. RogerH and Tony have both said different. Roger has both wires for fast when on mine both are for slow. Tony has the link to an article written by Alan Turner where he has the fast wire connection as brown/green and both as slow. I'll just tell you what I have on my car and it works fine. There are 4 wires exiting the loom next to the wiper motor. The green wire route is from the fuse box to the voltage regulator in the right hand drivers footwell on the right side wall. There is a double connector. The green wire continues from that connector to a double bullet connector that appears out of the loom above the steering column. (a bit hard to find) It then continues and appears as one of the 4 wires next to the motor. This is the +ve supply from the battery. The 2 wires coloured red/green and brown/green connect the motor to the switch on the dashboard. The switch has 2 positions. On my car the first position of the switch connects the red/green to earth for fast speed and the second position connects both the red/green and brown/green to earth for the slow speed. However NOTE that I have seen circuit diagrams that say the brown/green is the fast wire. To check you have the correct wire for fast, remove the end of the motor and look to see which wire connects to the self park wire. In mine this is on the right as you look inside. The red/green and red self park wires are soldered together. The brown/green connects to the field winding on the left. Do not connect only the brown/green (in my circuit) to earth for slow speed or you will burn out the wiring. If in doubt connect both red/green and brown/green to earth together to give you the slow speed. There is a black wire from the switch that is the earth wire. Confusingly this also emerges as the 4th wire next to the motor and this is earthed to the bodywork next to the motor. On mine there is another black wire that goes from the end of the motor to the bodywork. This is the earth for the self park mechanism. The red wire on the motor itself is the self park circuit. The motor self parks on fast speed hence the wire connected to the red inside the motor is the fast wire. Hope this makes sense Keith
  15. Hello Roger Thanks for tip of using caustic soda. Don't worry I have used far worse chemicals in my time so know the precautions. I shall look online to see exactly how you burnish out the scratches. I might even be able to use my panel beating dollies. Not sure if I can get them re-anodised with the steel spring clip still attached. Will be nigh on impossible to remove it without ruining it so might go for the chrome paint finish. Will have to see how the first one turns out. Hello Kob If you have originals how would you describe the finish? I would say it is like a dull brushed chrome finish. Not exactly a matt finish but not as shiny as the stainless steel version. Have a look at Ed's photo above and between the scratches you will see what I mean. Keith
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