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keith1948

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Hello Paul Not exactly correct - if you read the details which states that although some groups will have limited exemptions, this is what it says for historical vehicles:- "Vehicles with disabled or disabled passenger tax class, motorcycles, show vehicles and historical vehicles - All years" Keith
  2. Yes I think they were walking stick ferrules - I bought them for very little at Tewkesbury market. Don't think B&Q would have them - more likely a hardware shop or cobblers shop or at a market. The bolt head just fitted down a treat so I only had to cut them to length. There are several types out there once you go looking for them. Just take a bolt with you and try a few for size. Keith
  3. Hello David Ok no problem but here are pics of my 'repair'. First pic shows the worn bits below and the 2 rubber ferrules I found above. Second pic shows repair on left and original on right. Not exactly the same shape but does the job. Keith
  4. Hello David Remove perished rubber from metal stud. Go to local hardware shop or market and buy a couple of rubber ferrules used for walking sticks/chair legs. Mine are 1 inch diameter and 1/2 inch deep. I got mine from a market stall for about £1 each. Glue them onto the metal stud. Ok not 'original' but look almost identical and do the job. The ones I got fitted over the end of the stud without needing to glue them. Keith
  5. Just an idea but I once had problems balancing twin Strombergs and it was caused by some play in the connecting rods between the carbs. Move the throttle by hand and watch the 2 carbs. Do the butterfly valves open in unison or does one start to open before the other? Keith
  6. Note that historic vehicles are exempt in the new Birmingham Clean Air Zone which comes into force in January 2020. The car has to be built before 8th January 1979. https://www.birmingham.gov.uk/info/20076/pollution/1763/a_clean_air_zone_for_birmingham/7 Keep on TRucking Keith
  7. Hello again Casar I had a split near the hinge on the passenger door of the TR. I cleaned it up and removed a bit of paint around the split and cleaned the crack as best I could. Then I put a jack under the door to close up the crack and then welded it up from the outside. I use a low setting so not to blow a hole in the metal. Then I ground the weld flat and repainted it. That was a couple of years ago and the weld is still good. I was able to touch up the paint quite easily. If your crack was not likely to be under stress then your idea of an adhesive would probably work. For example to fill a rust hole maybe. However the crack is caused by flexing of the door skin at that point. I would personally do as Roger suggested much earlier. Drill a small hole at the end of the crack. This stops the crack getting longer. Remove the rubber/plastic trim next to the crack. Protect the window glass with some plumbers cloth to prevent heat from welding breaking the window. Remove interior panel and have a water spray handy to put out any fire in case you set alight any wax inside the door. The crack is small so will not need prolonged welding. A couple of small tack welds to start with to stop any distortion. Then do a bit at a time allowing it to cool between welds. Use a small grinding wheel to remove excess and finish off with small files and emery paper. If you are careful and keep the repair as small as possible then it should be easy to touch up the paint. Anyway - whichever way you choose good luck and let us all know how it works out. Keith p.s. I have a similar crack to yours on my drivers door so when I get around to welding it I will post the results
  8. I tried an epoxy to repair a similar crack. Total waste of time because the epoxy only has the thin edge of the crack to adhere to. Only way that an epoxy might work is to glue a patch on the inside. Best approach is to MIG as Stuart describes above. Any decent car body workshop would be able to repair it. Keith
  9. Hello Gordon Before fiddling about under the bonnet I suggest that it is likely to be the fuel. Last year two of us filled up at the same supermarket in Wales and both of us experienced both cars running terribly afterwards. Once the fuel level had gone down and we were able to fill up with fresh fuel the problem went away. My 4A will run on bog standard 95 octane without any additives (it had valve seats fitted nearly 30 years ago) but on this occasion there was something wrong with the fuel. Keith
  10. Hello again Rod Glad to hear things are progressing albeit slowly. Now I remember why we did most of the work ourselves to rid ourselves of the shoddy workmen and stress. We had Rainbow with their de-humidifiers as well. Noisy things running day and night. Never did quite understand why the 2 chimneys open to the sky were not blocked off during all this since we were effectively de-humidifying the rest of the planet but what do I know. Good luck with the local authorities. At best you might be able to get them to sort out the drainage issues around your house. It took us months (years?) to get the local council and the Environment Agency to admit that the drains were blocked. Actually worse than that - they didn't actually connect to anything but just ended under the road. Maybe you can get Ms Sturgeon to concentrate on issues that actually affect people instead of banging on about indyref2. (good luck on that one). Back to another tip - before you fit the skirting boards make sure the walls are absolutely as dry as they can be or you could get problems. I mounted our skirting just off the wall with small spacers and left a small gap above the floor (a couple of mm) to allow air to circulate behind. I also screwed them on with brass screws so if ever I need to remove them again after a flood I can do it without wrecking them. Finally I got a quote for my house and contents last month and the price had rocketed. According to the insurers it was because of flood risk. They said we were in the highest risk based on postcode. We are actually in the lowest risk based on Environment Agency survey results. Post codes are so the postman knows where our letterbox is as I keep telling the insurers. Well after some work I have now gone with Direct Line and saved 50% on my premium. They were also very good because our house is an old listed cottage and has been flooded twice. No problem. Other insurers wouldn't even quote. Keith
  11. Hello John Suggest you heat up the pulley with a blow lamp and as it cools run penetrating oil around the washer. Repeat this a few times. Also tap the washer with a hammer as it cools to try to shock the joint between the parts to help the oil get in there. I am told that diesel is also a good penetrating fluid but not tried it myself. It will most likely then suddenly come free and you will be left wondering why it was so hard to move in the first place. Keith
  12. Hi Andy Have you looked at Charlies post above. It seems lots of Volvos use this part number 383472 or part number 38403. There is a Volvo garage in Montpellier - just google "garage volvo montpellier" and it is on Rue Charles Lindeberg open until 7pm tonight tel +33 467 20 99 20 Good luck Keith
  13. Thanks Stuart Excellent answer. I have had round ones on for about 25 years or more so they have done well. However the clearance between the fan extension and steering rack is now only about 3mm so the 13mm thick fan belt won't slide between the two. The square mounts are about 3mm thicker than the round ones I have bought so might try them with a spacer to get a bit more height now I know which way round they fit. However not quite that simple because raising the front of the engine might mean I need to raise the radiator a bit as well and it might also result in a bit of adjustment of the exhaust pipe. Also fitting a spacer or two alters the geometry between the engine mounts since they are on an angle. Bit like a Rubiks cube - alter one bit and it affects other bits. Coming back to the original post (sorry Andy for side tracking) check the rear diff mountings. I had the offside (right hand side) front mounting split once and that caused diff to move about and make a clonking noise. Keith
  14. Hello Stuart Just debating whether to fit round or square engine mounts. Round are easy - no particular orientation needed. However looking at the square mounts.... 1. I assume the U-shaped side fits downwards onto chassis mount. 2. I then assume that the mount fits pointing up and down (long axis) rather than back to front. 3. Next question is, the studs are offset. So does the shorter or longer offset point up? The studs don't line up as on the round mounts (where both are in the centre). 4. Are the square ones better because if they fall apart, the U shape stops the engine dropping too far and causing the fan extension to foul the steering rack? Keith
  15. keith1948

    paint choice

    My 4A is Vauxhall Jade Green - the colour when I got it 30 years ago. It should be the drab Conifer Green. A lot of people go for a different racing green such as Jaguar Racing Green. I have often thought of having it changed back to the Conifer Green but I like the colour it is. I have seen some German TR's a similar colour to mine. From the colour chart above there is a British Racing Green and a Triumph Racing Green used at different times. I find that all the other colours fairly easy to identify but put two green cars together and they are rarely the same. In the 1960's it wasn't unusual to spray a car a different colour but now a non-standard colour is often frowned upon. Keith
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