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keith1948

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. No one yet has mentioned the Zircotec coatings that are supposed to reduce temperatures from exhaust manifolds. Have thought about doing this on my 4A but wonder what others think? Also I assume that wrapping the manifold simply transfers the heat to the exhaust pipe and then you need to insulate the floor. Changing from a single mild steel exhaust to a twin stainless one certainly increased the temperature inside my car when the roof was up and I had to put a layer of insulation under the carpets. Keith https://www.zircotec.com/exhaust-coatings/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIk7DwvoCR4QIVyr3tCh248wNKEAAYAiAAEgJp5fD_BwE
  2. This is a photo of the Toolzone one and the Silverline one. Both look very similar but are they strong enough? I don't think the right angle drive one will be suitable for what I want to do. The warnings about fixing down the drill was something I was wondering about. I am always careful about trigger locks on power tools. Never use them if I can help it. Too easy for them to get out of control. Not intending to use them for drilling but for wire brushes and small grinders to remove rust and smooth welds. Hello Ian - I'll send you an email. Keith
  3. Just looking at getting a flexible extension for the electric drill so I can access the more difficult bits under the car to wire brush them. So far I have come across one by Toolzone but the reviews are less than encouraging. It seems this one is for "hobby" use rather than serious use. There is another by Silverline (part number 633973). Both are approx a metre long with a drill chuck at the end. Does anyone have any views on what is a good one and which to avoid in their experience? Obviously it needs to be robust enough to last more than a day.... Keith
  4. Of course it won't fly because it's an underwater drone. It's shaped like a starfish silly! Keith
  5. Thanks Peter Found plenty on eBay now I know what to look for. Also found the setting tool. Thanks Keith
  6. Help required. I need to replace the little elasticated straps that clip the Surrey soft top to the A and B posts. I have some elastic (the easy bit) but can't seem to find a supplier of the small rivets that hold it to the top and the clip. These rivets are the same each side (dome headed) and are approx 9mm diameter (5/16ths old money). Anyone know where to get these and what tool is required to attach them. Those holding the clip have to attach the elastic, vinyl and clip together so need to be long enough to do that. Keith
  7. I like Marco's set up of the fuse boxes. Planning something similar myself but also wanting to replace the Moss headlamp relays with original Lucas 6RA type but wondering where I could locate them in the engine bay. Marco what is the colour of your car. The inside looks like conifer green but is the outside the same? As for heated seats? We usually have the problem in the summer of black seats absorbing the heat of the sun and almost taking the skin off our legs when we get in. Don't even think about shorts! Anyone got cooled seats??? Keith
  8. Hello Marco I have posted this advice before somewhere. Never use modern screen wash with the manual screen wash pumps. The ethanol in the solution rots the rubber bellows inside leaving you with a lump of disintegrated rubber. I just put a few drops of washing up liquid (soap) into the wash bottle. Keith
  9. Hello Paul Just had a good look at my Surrey top and I have the same seal around the Surrey as around the doors (furflex with a rubber cylinder). (1st photo) The second 2 photos show the hollow triangular seal at the rear of the vinyl trim inside the rear of the hard top. It is approx 1.5cm x 1.5cm and similar to Woolies SRS14 trim. On photo 3 you can also see the disc of tyre inner tube I stuck onto the raised bit in the centre. The width of the rear of the hard top measured between inside rim of gutters is 107cm. (On photo 2 this is between the bottom outer edges of the rear metal trim). The distance between the rear surrey frame top and rear of front capping is 72.3cm (28 and half inches) measured between where the fixing holes are. (Roughly where the Surrey frame is in photo 1). The Surrey frame is approx 106cm wide between the outer edge of the surrey stepped out bit below the popper in photo 1. It is 103cm between the stepped in portion at the same point. This means the hard top has approx 0.5cm clearance each side of the Surrey frame as in Tom's photo above. The seal going round the doors and the Surrey wouldn't be the cause of your problem now I have had a good look at mine. Just wonder if the gap between the top of the windscreen and top of the Surrey frame is a bit too tight? If you can upload a photo it might help Keith
  10. Hello Paul I was just about to suggest that the seal that goes around the doors is not the same as the section along the front edge of the surrey frame as in the second photo from Tom. There is no rubber flap, it is simply a section of furflex or rubber. Keith
  11. Hello Paul A photo of the problem with the seal would help. On the 3 raised areas I have stuck small pieces of tyre inner tube so that there is not metal to metal contact. You can often get old inner tube from car tyre outlets. It can be quite useful for all sorts of things! The rear rubber seal on the rear of the hard top fits along the rear edge of the head lining. Not sure what your issue is with the seal which I think you mean runs over from the B posts (not A posts?). Just wondering if you have the correct seal? Keith
  12. Not long ago replaced angle drive on a friends 4A. Problem of it failing I think was caused because the cable had been twisted on a tortuous route from the right hand side of the overdrive to the left hand side of the engine, behind the rocker cover and then through the wrong hole on the bulkhead. Too many twists and turns in my opinion. Mine (and the friends) are now routed along the right hand side of the gearbox and then a gentle arc past the starter motor and steering column through the hole nearest the speedo. No twists and turns. Just clip it with a bit of cable tie to the side of the engine bay to hold it away from the exhaust and steering column. keith
  13. Ah Ian Those nostalgic days of the pea soup fog/smog and the smell of the soot in the air. Driving along with just the foglights on with the driver's head out of the window looking for the centre line of the road and the passenger looking out of the nearside window trying to see the kerb. Driving in Europe I fit the amber beam deflectors to the headlights. Before I fitted the Moss relay kit this reduced the light output to a few candle power. So I fitted fog and spot lights to the car. After fitting the relay kit I was amazed at the difference to the light output of the headlamps so I rarely ever need to use either the spots or fogs now. I still power all this from a dynamo - ok as long as you switch off the heater! At the back I have fitted an LED strip that sticks to the back Surrey window at the top centre. This is connected to the brake light circuit so the tailgaters can see when I'm braking. As you say Ian, driving in the 50's 60's was quite a different experience and like you I wouldn't want to have just one spot or one fog light these days. Mind you there are plenty of cars out there on the roads with only one headlamp working. During one journey of 1/2 hour recently I counted nine of these cyclops. Maybe because the owners can't work out how to replace the bulbs on a modern car or maybe because even if they are replaced the onboard computer says "No - visit your dealer to have the system reset.' Keith
  14. Hello Rob If the lights were fitted as standard at time of manufacture then you are right that new regs would not apply. Iain's photo of the 1957 3A shows a car that would be ok because it was like that in 1957. However not sure how the rules are applied if you fit them today. I decided to try to follow current regs because I was not sure at the time how the rules would be applied or interpreted if stopped by police or involved in an accident. A bit like if your house has old wiring or fuse box - it's ok unless you change it - then you have to follow latest standards. The problem for you will not be the positioning of a couple of lights which should be easy to comply with (equal height and no more than 400mm from the edge of the car. The difficulty will be wiring because the spot must only be illuminated when high beam is on and the fog can be wired so it can come on when just sidelights are on (although with just the one I would wire the fog to be able to come on only when the headlights are on so that you don't have the "cyclops" effect for oncoming traffic.) Personally I would go for either spots or fogs or fit 2 of each as Tim Burgess (and I ) have done - it is simpler. I have one relay for high beam and one for low beam on the headlights. I have another relay for the spots and a further relay for the fogs (4 relays in all). This arrangement means the switches only see low voltage. The lamps get the full voltage and are brighter as a result. I still use sealed beam headlamps which are fine with this arrangement. Your comment re seatbelts is a similar situation. Old cars that had no seatbelts do not need to fit them However there is a cut off date for cars to have them fitted. If you fit seat belts to an early TR then they should be fitted correctly and be working or they will fail the MOT. I have retro fitted seat belts and they are checked at the MOT (but my car doesn't need an MOT just to complicate things - I still have it checked because I think it is an independent check of roadworthiness that might be helpful with the insurance company). Good luck Keith
  15. Just a few bits of advice fitting spot and fog lamps. There are regulations governing both their positioning and operation to be aware of in the UK. The first 3 lines below are from Halfords website regarding fog lamps When fitting a pair of fog lamps you should obey the following legal requirements: Fog lamps should be positioned symmetrically; the same height from the road and the same distance from the sides of the vehicle. The lamps should be fitted so that their outer edges are no more than 400mm from the outer edge of the car. Maximum height above ground 1200mm. Also: Front and rear fog lamps are permitted to operate independently of any other lamps or ignition systems. And: Spotlights should go off when you dip the headlights (i.e. only operate when main beam lights are on) So wire them via a switched circuit via a relay connected to the main beam circuit. Rear fog light lenses should be marked with the letter F if they are genuine rear fog lenses. I remember having some problems working out where to fit 2 spots and 2 fogs on the front of my TR several years ago. I remember a lot of measuring to make their positions street legal. If I find the original info I'll post it. I can switch on the fog lights when the sidelights are on (i.e. independent of the headlights). The spotlights however only operate on main beam via the dip switch. Keith
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