Jump to content

keith1948

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    318
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

keith1948 last won the day on January 1

keith1948 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About keith1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Cotswold Vale

Recent Profile Visitors

568 profile views
  1. Very interesting airflow simulations in the earlier posts above. I was once involved in computational fluid dynamics (CFD) looking at air movement in clean rooms. The comment that centrally placed exhaust pipes may result in better extraction of exhaust fumes is particularly interesting. When I bought my 4A it had a crossbox with the pipe exiting near the nearside over-rider. I often had to clean the soot off this. I then changed to twin pipes that exit more towards the centre line of the car. I still had some issues until I extended the tail pipes beyond the bumper. They are now 13 inches apart (centre to centre) and extend 4 inches beyond the bumper. Sounds a lot but looks ok. The extension pipes also to some extent direct the gases down towards the airflow under the car shown in Kev's simulation. This would appear to be better than the fashionable open ended pipes seen on many TR's The first simulation by Kev also shows the vortex behind the windscreen when the top of the car is down. This explains why, when driving through drizzly rain with the top down, the inside of the windscreen gets covered in rain as well as the outside. Fascinating stuff - thanks to the tech guys Keith p.s. this would make a really good article for TRAction!
  2. Hello Robert Glad you have recovered the door plate. Re alignement - as Roger says a fiddly job. When I was trying to line up my drivers door I slightly loosened the hinge bolts and door catch so I was able to push and pull the door into position. I also loosened the bolts holding the front end of the rear wing because that can move in and out a bit as well. If the various bolts are not too loose then you can then open the door once it is in line and do up the bolts. It may also then be necessary with a hammer and piece of wood to 'adjust' the lip of the door opening to get the furflex to fit properly. There is also some in/out movement on the rear edge of the front wing. It may also be necessary to add or subtract from the packing between the rear of the body shell and the chassis. Once you have the door in the best fit you can achieve then wind up the windows and look at the gap between the glass and the windscreen. Again there is some adjustment on the brackets under the dashboard each side that hold the windscreen on. Curved spanners are useful to get at the nuts holding these brackets. Altering the angle of the windscreen will then have altered slightly the fit of the hood, surrey or hard top so that might need some adjustment as well. It's all a bit like a giant Rubik's cube. Good luck Keith
  3. The back of the TR6 is more square than earlier TR's. This may cause the exhaust fumes to swirl around the back of the car more than a TR4 or 5. The solution may be to experiment with the length of the exhaust tailpipe. Having a good boot seal and good rear light seals is obvious. It would be interesting to put a 6 and a 5 in a wind tunnel to see how the exhaust fumes behave. Failing that maybe stick some Redex into the carbs, drive along with someone in a car behind and see where the smoke goes. I used to demonstrate air flow around doorways in clean rooms using a portable smoke generator. It was amazing what we learnt about air movement using this simple technique. I extended the exhaust pipes on my twin exhaust on the TR4A. Before I did that the back of the boot and the bumper would collect water droplets and soot particles from the exhaust. Keith
  4. Has anyone any experience of using a two pack resin primer on wheels? Keith
  5. What about the area inside the wheel (inside the tyre). Red primer? or silver top coat? Keith
  6. Hello Darran I would also like to have views on this as I have a set of wheels ready for painting. First step is to remove old paint and neutralise any rust. With powder coating then if you scratch the wheel then it has to be sent for powder coating again I believe. With paint you can touch it up if scratched. Haven't made my mind up yet which route to take. As for tyre fitters not damaging the finished surface - it depends on how careful they are. Biggest problem seems to be attaching or removing balance weights around the rims. Looking forward to views of others Keith
  7. Erik The spring with varying diameter I think will only be available if you buy a new slave cylinder. Unless of course someone has an old cylinder with a good spring inside that you could use. If yours is ok then no problem. Item 64 hooks onto item 63 - a small plate that is held on item 61 - the pivot pin. The other end of the spring hooks into a small hole in item 49 (as in the post above). Suggest you take out the innards of the slave cylinder to see what is required. Most likely it is the rubber ring seal that has perished or been deformed. I think you should be ok if you remove all the oil tomorrow. It takes a while for the rubber to be attacked by the oil. Problem will be removing it all. Keith p.s. make sure you get the seal the correct way round with wide diameter facing inwards as in Rimmers diagram.
  8. Couldn't get onto Moss site but here is the part (item 47) on the Rimmers site https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID200013 As you can see there is also a spring inside which can break but I don't know if this part is available separately. As for using Cognac - best to drink that to celebrate once the job is done Keith
  9. Or turn the car upside down and it will fall back into position Keith Sorry - too much Christmas spirit!
  10. Erik The rubber seal for the slave cylinder is available as a kit. Just pull out the rod (after removing the pivot pin from the lever) and you will see the seal on the end of the rod (may need to blow it out by getting someone to press clutch pedal slightly). If the bore of the cylinder is ok then new seal will work. Clean out the system by flushing through with fresh brake fluid dot 4. Don't use any other type of brake fluid (dot 5 is silicone and not compatible with dot 4). I would also advise lining up the cylinder with the push rod (mine is on next hole up on the lever arm). With the rod at the angle as it is now then the cylinder is pushing the rod at an angle which is maybe the cause of the seal failure. It should work ok (mine works fine) in the different hole. On question of new parts it is a matter of choice but my 'new' master brake cylinder has worked fine for a few years now. I keep some spare seals etc handy all the time after rebuilding a friends car braking system on a trip to the south of France. A spare can of brake fluid in the boot can also be useful. Keith
  11. Yes agree. Wrong fluid. EP80W is for transmission. What you need is dot4 brake fluid. At least it has proved what the problem was. You now have a new problem of removing all the EP80W oil that you have put in but looking on the bright side at least you know you don't have to remove a gearbox. Keith
  12. More info........ The pushrod on my 4A is on the next hole up compared to yours. Just makes it line up better with the slave cylinder. Not sure now that it is anything more than just loss of hydraulic fluid caused by faulty seal inside the slave cylinder. Hopefully that is all that it is. keith p.s happy new year
  13. This part of your information indicates that the seal inside the slave cylinder (in the photo) needs replacing. The fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir should be about 1cm below the top. There should be no air in the system. Use brake hydraulic fluid dot 4 to refill the system. Make sure you don't get it on the paintwork. It is not oil but hydraulic brake fluid you need. Keith
  14. Yes item 136 is the spring. I must have misread the number. Reading the various posts above I think maybe there is a problem inside the bell housing as well because pressing the clutch pedal should disengage the clutch so might be a broken taper pin item 16 on original link as suggested by RobH much earlier. This can be difficult to extract if broken and also requires gearbox out. Do the slave cylinder issues first as that is outside the gearbox and simpler to fix. Keith P.S. Read my next post below as it seems like loss of fluid might be your problem..........
  15. Referring to last post above mine, item 15 spring does not return the linkage but just takes up side to side play on main operating shaft. Keith
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.