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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Hi Stuart you misunderstood what I was saying. If thread on bump stop is too short through spacer then make another spacer with a threaded hole so you can screw bump stop into one side and threaded rod into other side. As I understand it the spacer simply has a hole through it (not threaded). You could also helicoil the spacer to take the bump stop thread and again put an extra bit of threaded rod the other side to fit to the body. Keith
  2. Just an idea but make an alloy spacer. Put a threaded hole through it. Screw bump stop into threaded hole. Screw bit of threaded rod into other side of threaded hole and use that to attach to car. Use lock tight as well. Keith
  3. Yes through the engine bay but the gearbox and overdrive if fitted can be separated and dragged out from inside the car after removing the H frame and tunnel to get at it. You would have to remove the bonnet and disconnect a lot more to remove engine with the gearbox. I have removed the gearbox with and without overdrive fitted and the procedure is basically very similar. I found it easier to pull it out than to get it back. You have to turn the box to one side as you feed it towards the engine and then line it up perfectly or it won't slip back together. Bolts in some of the fixing holes as p
  4. Hi Rob Just found this Lucas document https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/imgytr/pdf/lucascourse6.pdf On page 7 it says earth cable comprising 37 strands 20 SWG tinned copper wire for earth if starter motor current does not exceed 400 amps. That size of wire is also equivalent to 25mm2 and is rated at 170 amps. So my original feeling that 170 amp rated wire was the one seems to be the one chosen by Lucas. Lucas also mention a thicker wire but that seem to be overkill. Not sure what the rating is for the power cable to starter without measuring it but I agree the size of the ea
  5. Hello all I have been following the thread on the TR4/4a part of the forum and have taken off the earth strap that goes from the front plate of the engine to the left front chassis to clean up the connections because it was looking a bit 'tired'. It is now back on the car. I have decided, following various comments, that it is prudent to have another earth cable from the engine to body to avoid using the choke cable as a 'hot wire' earth. Next question though is what size earth wire to buy? Looking on the internet there are a variety e.g. 16mm2 = 110A, 20mm2 = 135A, 25mm2 = 170A and
  6. Hi Jim Raising the front of the engine 1/2 inch also raises the fan 1/2 inch so in theory the radiator should be raised 1/2 inch as well. I have just measured the clearance between the top of the radiator cap on my car and the underside of the bonnet. I stuck a bit of glazing putty on the top of the rad cap and closed the bonnet. I reckon there is about 1 inch and 1/4 clearance. In theory then it should be possible to place shims under each side of the radiator where it bolts to the chassis. It might also be necessary to raise the cowl a bit. I don't know if anyone has done this before bu
  7. Just measured some square vs round engine mounts and the square ones I have are approx 5mm deeper than the round ones. I have read that the square ones are better but don't know if this is true. They would give a few mm extra. I have made a cross bar that fits into the channels each side of the engine bay. Using some threaded eye bolts, I can hook one of these under the front nearside lifting eye and the exhaust side with some thick wire rope and lift the front of the engine enough to change the fan belt. I also carry a spare clipped in place as many others have suggested - got me out of
  8. Hi Marco On my 4A looking down at the cross tube mine is not bolted onto the cross tube bolt. Look down at the end of the left of the cross tube and approximately 1 inch (2.5cm) to the right of the top bolt of the cross tube and then 1 inch down is where it is bolted onto the chassis. However I agree with Roger that it would make more sense to connect to the body but then again on my car it has worked ok for last 55 years. You could run an extra bit of earth cable from the engine to the body or chassis to body to be sure. Keith p.s. Hi Roger hope you are well
  9. Hello John After 30 years driving the TR around UK and Europe I have had to fix several things such as dynamo in France (got one from a tractor garage), fan belt twice in France, Stromberg diaphragms after Shepton Mallet meeting years ago, radiator top hose (France - got the top hose for a Massey Ferguson), rebuilt a friends rear brake system (France again) which required clean brake shoes not soaked in brake fluid, new piston seals and dot 4 fluid in a remote village, repaired horn wiring in lakes using soldering iron, used up spare oil in remote French village in friends car. Just a few
  10. Hi Ron Where to start? If you are driving in the UK then your tool kit can be smaller. If you are in continental Europe or Ireland then I carry loads of spares such as dynamo, fan belts, fuel pump, points, condenser, coil, brake parts, UJ's, electrical wire, Stromberg diaphragms, brushes for starter and dynamo, light bulbs including sealed beams, spare fuses, fuel pipe, radiator hoses, rear light lenses, spare wheel nuts, etc the list goes on. Also a bottle of dot4 brake fluid. Useful to know that tractor garages often have parts that can fit a TR. WD40. Radiator stop leak. Small can of e
  11. Hi As you will see from my original reply to you I thought it might be that the switch and the cancelling clip were just too far apart to work since I have had this as well. Rather than shim the cancelling clip I moved the switch towards the clip. The cancelling clip locates in a 'slot' on the column to keep it in the correct position. I would be concerned that the shim might fall out as you are driving along depending on how you have fitted it. Keith
  12. Hello Rich Mmm I have a small trolley on casters that is quite robust so maybe I can use that as a starting point to make something as you have suggested. I have already made an adjustable support that fits into the bonnet bay channels similar to Clarke CEC500DS Dual Hook Engine/Gearbox Support from Machine Mart. (Product Code 020112912) https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cec500ds-dual-hook-enginegearbox-suppo/ I was planning to use this to lift engine at front to change engine mounts (after moving battery out of the way first). But I can also use this at the rear of the eng
  13. Hi Keith, I see you have the job of refitting the gearbox.

    I copied and then enhanced the crane to make this a simple, safe, one man operation, and it works very well.

    wondered if it might be possible to get it to you for the job, it might depend on how soon you need to refit.


    Send me your email, in the meantime, and postcode and I,ll Mail you the detail, and we could see what could be done on getting it to you?



  14. Hi Roger Looks very good. Can you specify exactly what size beading you have used. There are several sizes available on eBay. Definitely gives the Surrey top more of a 60's feel. I have a 1960's roof rack that fits onto gutters as on the Surrey. Never fitted it to the car though. My dad used it on a Herald and a Vitesse then. Perhaps that is a project to clean it up and try it out. Not sure how much load it would take or even if it is a stupid idea since the top is only held on by 4 bolts. Keith
  15. Thanks Paul I don't think it can come out from below either but thought I would just make sure. I have seen the cranes that have been on the forum which look very useful. I have found one of the transmission jacks on offer so was hoping someone else had experience of whether these are any good or not. Thanks for swift reply. The Register forum is really useful. Keith
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