keith1948

Just for info we have a couple of old phones that won't work on 3G here since it was switched off. However I have discovered that they still work on 2G so your tracker may still work if it was 2G/3G Keith

Bearing in mind that the triplex code suggests maybe 1960 or 1970 my guess would be a saloon from 1950's or 1960's something like a Humber Sceptre as already suggested. Could be either front or rear screen. Again I am with Stuart that this is not a TR screen, front or back. It is way too big. Keith

Hi Ian Just measured my surrey screen and it is 44.5 inches wide so 12 inches narrower than this one. It is also less than the 19.5 inches high. Would not fit my 4A Keith

You can date the glass from the triplex logo https://www.mgexp.com/article/triplex-window-date-code.206#:~:text=Triplex Window Date Code Decoding&text=One dot above T%2C R,letters in the word TOUGHENED. So my guess would be (possibly) manufactured April/May/June 1970 or possibly 1960. It is also quite a bit bigger than my surrey rear screen so not a TR part. Keith

Hi John Here is an article about these clips https://www.1978mgmidget.com/odometer_repair_on_a_1978_or_1979_MG_Midget.html Doesn't help in locating a supplier though. There are lots of Jaeger and Smiths speedometers on eBay that will most likely have these parts. Can't help thinking I have seen these somewhere else - on old clocks maybe. Keith

Thanks Rob and I hope Richard has resolved his wiring issues now. Meanwhile I have looked at changing the wiring to allow main beam flash. On paper it is easy but I have a RHD car that was LHD ex USA but with a LHD loom that was 'modified' by the previous owner to work on RHD. So the loom connections for the light switch and dip switch are on the left not the right. They also used the wrong wire colours to extend the dip switch wires from right to left. I also have headlamp relays so need to figure that out as well. So not exactly a 5 minutes job. First step is to get some wires of correct siz

Just one question - if the flasher is rewired to dip switch so main beam is activated by flasher switch while the dip beam is switched on by the light switch, will this overload the headlamp bulb or in my case the sealed beam unit by having both filaments on at same time albeit for a short time? Keith

Yes Stuart. I think it makes sense if you think of the flasher as a separate switch to the main light switch with its own separate wiring. It is kind of piggy-backed onto the main switch just to confuse us all. Keith.

Interesting variations for wiring the flasher. While looking at my 4A wiring and light switch in helping Richard I also discovered that if the headlights were already on then the flasher would not flash main beam. I have also been looking at various wiring diagrams. The Haynes Manual shows a circuit diagram for 4 and 4A but is in fact only for the 4. The TR4 workshop manual only has the 4. My Autobook manual only has the 4 even though the manual is described as for 4 and 4A. The only book I have with the 4A wiring (as on my ex USA 4A) is the owners handbook. The Advance Autowire shows 4 and 4A

Do you mean the flasher does not work now?

Yes dip switch wiring looks ok. Looks like flasher unit is stuck in the ON position from what Rob has posted. Roadside temporary fix would be to disconnect white/blue and or brown wires from bullets under steering column. Would mean you had no flasher. However you might have other problems inside the switch. Looks like a new switch that comes with the wires ready to install but it is a fiddly job getting the wires fixed under the steering column behind the cover plate. Care needed not to trap any wires. Personally I (and probably Rob) would have a go at mending the switch but if electric

Hi Rob has just beaten me to the same conclusion Brown/blue to red/green should give continuity on position 1 and 2 as you have so ok Brown/blue to blue gives continuity on position 2 headlights as you have so ok The brown wire is one side of the flasher. The other side (depending on how yours is wired) should either be coloured blue/white or possibly a different wire that is brown/blue. Whichever, it plugs into the bullet connector that has the 2 blue wires. The flasher should make the circuit from the brown wire to this blue/white regardless of switch position off/1/2. I

Just been into the garage to find a spare dip switch. There are 3 terminals. 2 are opposite each other. These are high or low beam terminals. The terminal on its own is the supply. So first check blue wire is to the one on its own and the blue/white and blue/red go to the 2 terminals facing each other. To test with a meter, remove switch, put one probe on the terminal on its own and then try each of the other 2. One should bleep and the other should not. Press the dip switch and the one that bleeps is the opposite. There should be no circuit between the 2 terminals facing each other. Kei

Sorry Richard, should have said to disconnect the 4 bullet connectors from the opposite side to the light switch so switch is effectively isolated. You don't need to actually remove it just isolate it. The continuity check is then testing the switch. I think I am maybe making things more confusing if you are finding wiring diagrams unhelpful and also meter tests. On the dimmer just make sure the wiring is as per diagram. It is basically blue supply wire and the switch either connects this to the blue/white and high beam or to blue/red and dip beam circuits. You can again disconnect this a

Thanks Rob I did wonder if the TR6 one was the same or not. There seem to be a lot of electrical gremlins around targeting TR's lately. Too many electrons I guess. Keith