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keith1948

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. If its not the wrong glass then there is some adjustment on the rake of the windscreen frame. On the passenger side footwell right up under the left of the windscreen there is a tube arrangement and a bracket (best to look at a parts catalogue to see how this fits. You can slacken the nuts and maybe push the top forward a bit. This will also raise the hard top at the front left corner a bit. You only need a small bit of movement at the bottom to give a few mm at the top. This adjustment requires great flexibility lying upside down in the footwell or simply feeling for the adjusting nuts. I use
  2. Hi Bob Yes the mismatch I had was in the early days of Nimh. I used a high charging NiCd charger and the Nimh batteries overheated. Ever since I have been careful not wishing to set the house on fire. So are the newer Nimh batteries able to take the higher charge or is it best to still use dedicated Nimh chargers? Keith
  3. Hi Bob Just checked the Bosch battery pack on my trimmer and definitely labelled NiCd. You had me worried for a minute. As you probably know you need to choose correct battery for charger (or vice versa). In the past I have had meltdown with a mismatch between batteries and a charger. Keith
  4. I have just replaced the batteries for a strimmer DESCRIPTION QUANTITY PRICE COST Sub C 2000mAh 1.2V NiCd - £29.95 Tagged Battery 15 pack for - 18V https://www.batteriesplus.co.uk/acatalog/Batteries_Plus_Tagged_Batteries_26.html Initially they sent only 14 but after a phone call the 15th arrived quickly. Bit of a challenge soldering them all in the correct polarity but seem to work fine. There was a temperature sensor to connect as well. It helped to sellotape them together to hold them in place during soldering. Keith
  5. Mind you I guess that having TR4 or whatever on the keyring narrows it down for the scum so if they get their hands on your keys its just a question of trying the keys in a few car doors of that make. Better to keep the keyring anonymous or if you are really sneaky attach a keyring for a different make to waste their time. Well done Mickey for alerting us to this risk. Never thought about it before. Keith
  6. There seem to be a few different pressings of this badge. The first one posted by Pete is the same as mine but mine has more clearly defined 'milling' pattern around the green bit. Mine also has the solid bottom bar next to where it says TR4. Kevins keyring does not have this solid bottom bar but 3 distinct lines to the left of TR4. Maybe this is like coins where an error in casting produces a really valuable one - but then again maybe not. Now if anyone sees a TR4A keyring..................... And here is another kind of badge... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D15j8ljPQk
  7. A while ago I went from TR4A seats to TR6 with headrests. The 4A seats don't lock onto the runners whereas the 6 seats do. I had to add a bit to the back of the runners so the seat locking mechanism would work. I also remember that I had trouble lining them up with the car and ended up using a forward hole and backward hole where the seat attaches to the runner at the front. If I used both front or back holes the seat would not line up. I find the adjustable TR6 seat headrests too low. I had to make a friction roller because the original ones were missing. I used a rubber rawl bolt to get
  8. Hello David Had a problem with my 4A running on a few years ago now. I changed to a cooler spark plug so instead of NGK BP6HS I went to BP7HS (fast road plug). Problem solved. I figured that the hotter plug was glowing and igniting the fuel after the ignition was switched off. I did think of fitting one of those automatic anti run on valves but although I have the bits I didn't need to. Too lean a mixture will also not help. Look at your existing plugs. If they are black its too rich, white too lean and brown just right. Keith
  9. Hi Kevin I have taken apart and rebuilt a few of these. The bearings have an end float of about 2-4 thou when assembled. There is a collapsible spacer between the bearings. As you tighten the big nut, that collapses the spacer until you get the correct end float. There is then a locknut/washer to hold it in place. If you tighten too much then the bearings could seize so tightening the big nut in your case not advised. With an end float on the bearing, then you will have some play at the edge of the wheel. If there was no play at all then it is possible that the bearings have been tightene
  10. Hello Bob Here is a link to fuel hose spec that I found. The main difference between R6 and the R9/14 is the permeability from the table in the link. R6 is 600 g/m2/day whereas R9/14 grades are 15 g/m2/day. R6 and R14 are both rated 50 psi whereas R9 is 100 psi. So for carbs R14 seems to be best bet whereas for fuel injection R9. Although R6 is ethanol ok, the higher permeability (in a boot area) might give rise to petrol smell. I chose R9 because at the time I hadn't come across the R14. I would recommend stay up floats for either SU's or Strombergs (available from Burlen). I change
  11. Ralph Mine seems to be aluminium with a crimped double seam so neither brass nor soldered. Anyway I have left it as it seems to be ok. I think maybe any component with dissimilar metal parts might be more susceptible to corrosion in presence of water from the ethanol. Personally I would have thought this would take some time except maybe for some of the softer alloys. Time will tell I guess Keith
  12. Hi Charlie Took sender unit out this weekend and discovered it is metal. So now not worried about ethanol on that component. I had to cut a semi circle out of the flange that the boot seal fits to in order to get the sender unit out. This will be covered by the boot back panel but will make removal in future a bit easier. Alternative was to move the whole tank. Keith
  13. Just thought I would share my experience of a problem I have just discovered. This weekend on my 4A I replaced all fuel hoses with R9 ethanol compatible, changed the sender gauge float gasket for Viton, changed filler hose for compatible hose, changed O rings in Strombergs and installed 'stay up' floats. Looking at the original floats (over 30 years old) I noticed one had developed a 'blister' and there was a bit of corrosion just above the lower O ring on the lower jet assembly. In the last few years I have used E5 petrol. Not sure if these issues are ethanol related though. Probably worth us
  14. Sounds easy in principle to download the database but in practice it depends on how the app is set up and how the database is configured. It would also have to be both Microsoft and Apple compatible for those with different computer operating systems. I suspect that there are technical reasons why it might not be possible to download the data in a file as suggested. Keith
  15. Having purchased 'stay up' floats for the Strombergs on my 4A (SU's have similar stay up options), I have now been wondering about the float for the fuel sender. Are these ethanol resistant or are there ethanol resistant ones available? I guess the worst that could happen would be that if holed they would sink or maybe form a gelatinous lump of goo in the bottom of the fuel tank. Since the USA and European continent have had E10 for a while, have they any experience of issues? Second question is what size (i.d. and thickness) is the rubber anti rattle O ring that fits on the float. M
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