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keith1948

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About keith1948

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  • Location
    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Hi Jim Yes they were glass. Keep your eyes peeled at auto jumbles. I found one at a car boot sale and got it for 20 pence a couple of years back. The owner didn't know what it was for. Plastic will do the job though. Good hunting Keith
  2. I have an original Amco boot rack made in Hollywood California. Don't know what its load capacity would be except that it was strong enough when in Spain a few years back a child decided to use it as a 'ladder' to climb over the boot, up and over the Surrey screen and into the car. Apparently this is normal there since its parents stood and watched as he did it. Unfortunately for them (and the child) I could speak enough Spanish to tell them off. I would guess he was well over 3 stone (42 lbs) in weight. I think the weakest parts are the flatter middle bars that connect to the round side
  3. On the rear brakes the wheel cylinder has to slide on the backplate and the piston in the cylinder has to move. Check the cylinder is sliding freely on the backplate. If not then some WD40 or similar and you should be able to slide it from side to side by hand on the backplate. Best way to adjust rear brakes is to jack up rear of car so both wheels are off the ground. You can then get the adjustment 'balanced' so each side locks up the same. Move handbrake up one click at a time and try to rotate wheels by hand and you should have resistance each side more or less the same. To tighten as state
  4. Could be plug leads shorting onto inside of bonnet or dipstick. Happened to a friend of mine. Car worked fine when bonnet was open but not when it was closed. As the car turned corners I think the engine was moving slightly from side to side and was just enough to move the plug leads and cause the fault. Keith
  5. One of my TR friends had no self cancelling. When I investigated I discovered the clip with the blip on was pointing to the opposite side of the column to the indicator switch. Probably a previous owner part converting from left to right hand drive and forgetting to change the clip to the other side. It was possible with a couple of screwdrivers to rotate the clip to the other side without major disassembly but disconnect the battery first! Fortunately it lined up to be midway between the two activating arms of the switch. It is also possible to move the switch a fraction closer to the column
  6. Mine did that for a time. Might be caused by the cable being bent slightly. It should follow a route that means there are no sharp bends and should go through the hole in the bulkhead nearest the back of the speedo. Also pull the inner cable out and give it a good clean. I use a bit of thin oil for lubrication - just enough to thinly coat the cable (use an oily rag). Grease can go hard and then the inner cable can bind slightly especially if the cable isn't routed smoothly. If any grease has got into the speedo in the past then it can get onto the spinning disc inside and cause erratic re
  7. Hello Andrew The 2 speed wiper circuit must be one of the most confusing. Others have both wires for fast when on mine both are for slow. There is an article written by Alan Turner where he has the fast wire connection as brown/green and both as slow. I'll just tell you what I have on my 4A and it works fine. There are 4 wires exiting the loom next to the wiper motor. The green wire route is from the fuse box to the voltage regulator in the right hand drivers footwell on the right side wall. There is a double connector. The green wire continues from that connector to a double bu
  8. I have a spare fan belt fastened with cable ties next to the pulley so I can change to the spare without jacking up the engine. I have a spare coil fastened in the engine bay as well. I picked up these tips after looking at a rally car modifications. I like the modified extension tube idea though. I am also looking at raising the front of the engine a bit on the mountings to see if that would work but I would have to raise the radiator by a similar amount to reduce stretching of the top hose. I have checked and I have some clearance to do this. Obviously the Triumph engineers had an off d
  9. Hello Roger After contacting you directly I understand you have purchased some new stay up floats because your old ones began to sink because of a pinhole. The question was how to set float height. I am assuming this is for Strombergs. Invert the carbs and the highest part of the float when the needle is against its seating should be 18.5mm or 0.73 inch. I made a tool out of a bit of perspex to do this accurately. This is best described as E shaped but with the centre bit cut off (making a square U shape). The ends rest on the body of the inverted carb and the cutout is exactly 18.5mm. Ea
  10. Hi Roger Never had to remove prop shaft or exhaust when removing gearbox and overdrive. Once disconnected you can push prop shaft back a bit on its splines. The bit that takes away any enthusiasm for this job is removing seats, H frame, tunnel, carpets, radio - the list goes on. The first time I removed gearbox I made a list as I went along of all the things I removed or disconnected. Then when refitting I went through the list in reverse. In that way I didn't miss anything. Enjoy your day! Keith
  11. Make sure the 2 cone shaped rubber pieces that fit into the 'dimples' at the 2 corners of the bonnet at the windscreen end of the bonnet are correctly located and adjusted so they touch the bonnet. Up and down adjustment is achieved by the screw that connects them to the car. You can put washers as spacers to get the correct height. Once you have the height correct then with the nut slack, close the bonnet and open again. The cones should now have moved in line with the dimples in the bonnet. Tighten the nuts and then they should stop that end of the bonnet vibrating/squeaking. There are
  12. Hello Ian In my experience problems with horns sounding when they shouldn't is because the steering wheel boss is too close to the column. Back it off a fraction by the top clamp on the column where it enters the engine bay. This can only be done if the central part of the inner column can slide up and down inside its sleeve. I have wrestled for many a day trying to release the central part from the tube of the inner column. Plenty of penetrating oil and patience (and a bit of hammering) eventually prevailed. I could only do this by removing the top part of the column by releasing the to
  13. Hello Les Welcome to the forum. For info I removed my non adjustable 4A seats without headrests for TR6 seats that are adjustable and do have headrests (although a bit too low for me). When fitting these I had to extend the back of the runners so that the locking lever held the seat down. The TR4A seats do not have a locking lever at the back. Rebuilding the TR6 seats was a bit of a challenge though especially the friction mechanism that holds the headrests in place. This part seemed to be unavailable so ended up modifying some rubber threaded rawlplugs that seem to work. I had the 4
  14. Hello Vic Agree with TT above regarding hot wires. However a new loom changes things because anything may be different to 'standard'. Earthing each headlamp to the inner wings has resolved the headlamp problem. This means the 3rd wire from the bullet connector is not earthed as I thought. Now the live black wire. Black wires are earth wires and will show voltage on a meter if the item they are connected to is 'on' because the meter is simply completing the circuit. On my car with an original loom, both headlamp earths go to a bullet connector on top of radiator cowl and a thicke
  15. Hello Vic Oh dear. Back to basics. Each headlamp has 3 wires. The centre pin connector is the earth. Try connecting this on each headlamp to earth with a temporary connection. Take a wire directly from battery terminal to the 2 dip switch outputs. By battery terminal I mean the terminal connected to the starter solenoid. Blue/red is dip and blue/white is main beam and warning light. Headlamps should work. If they do then disconnect temporary earth. If they then don't work then the fault is the earth. If they don't work with the temporary earth then look for the bullet connectors on top of
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