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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Hello Nigel Was going to suggest you check the old sleeve with a dial micrometer to see how near circular it is. Also maybe the hole through it might be slightly off centre. Compare it with the new one. 4 thou would be enough to cause an oil leak. Can you fit the cover in situ without tightening it in place making sure the seal is fitting to the sleeve evenly and gradually tightening it up. If it doesn't fit exactly then is it possible to "adjust" the bolt/dowel holes on the cover a fraction with a file? I seem to remember back in the 60's using old corn flakes box cardboard as a gasket for the timing cover on a mini. No expense spared in those days! Keith
  2. Hi Stuart I had wondered why the two rubber pipes were there. I had assumed it was something to do with the way the car was put together on the production line. Still possible to remove the body with the straight through pipe - just disconnect at the tank end and also at the shut off valve in the engine bay. The pipe is only fastened to the chassis on mine between those points. Keith
  3. Hello David I removed the old pipe and rubber connectors and replaced it with a single length of copper/bronze pipe. I wasn't happy with the rubber connectors under the car out of sight with the risk of them being affected by ethanol in the petrol. From memory there was one rubber connector alongside the diff and another near the front of the car. There are a couple of metal clips welded onto the inside of the nearside box section of chassis but that is all. The pipe comes down from the tank and there is a slight s-shape bend between the tank and chassis to the first rubber connector which is next to the diff area of the box chassis member. The pipe then runs along the inside of the box section (side facing the prop shaft) through the holes in the inner brackets. There is the second connector just before the pipe goes up to the fuel pump. I fitted a fuel shut off valve just before the fuel pump. This is just below the level of the fuel tank so I can drain the fuel tank via this valve if needed. I just made sure that there was an s-shape bend in the pipe below the fuel tank to allow for any expansion/contraction of the length of pipe under the car. which was similar to the original This arrangement removed 4 connections (2 for each bit of rubber hose) under the car that could leak. Now the only connections are at the tank and at the shut-off valve in the engine bay. I seem to remember that the tank connection used an olive but I may be wrong on that. Keith
  4. Non-steady speedo needles seems to be a common problem. One speedo I looked at recently had wear on the bearing (bush) on the input drive. This was enough to cause the needle mechanism to contact the spinning magnet mechanism inside. The needle would reach 120mph and then drop back and so on. I have posted this answer before elsewhere on the forum but it seems to be important to make sure the cable is routed without any significant bends and goes through the correct grommet hole in the bulkhead (the one behind the speedo) and lines up as near perfect as you can get it with the input at the back. Then the knurled locknut only needs to be finger tight. One symptom of not getting this right is that the needle doesn't zero properly. I quick fiddle around with the knurled locknut at the back or a slight movement of the cable and the needle drops to zero. Do not put oil or grease into the back of the speedo - it will cause problems inside. Everyone has their preferences but I find some light 3 in 1 oil on a paper towel and just wipe it down the cable inner is enough to lubricate it. Grease in my experience will cause drag on the inner cable and could cause the needle to waver. Friction from grease is higher than oil. Also do not 'inject' oil into the cable - it will be too much and could end up inside the speedo. Just a light smear from a paper towel is more than sufficient to prevent sticking. I think one of the problems is that many speedos are now over 50 years old and the cars have often been once or even twice around the clock. They were never really designed to last that long. Wear on the input bush seems to be a problem point since the spinning magnet will have done millions of revolutions in its lifetime. The moving part that the needle is attached to doesn't have that much movement so is generally ok. The only problem there seems to be a weak spring or loss of magnetism. Keith
  5. Exactly what I found using Colortune on the TR Keith
  6. Hello Rich Here is a link to how to tune Strombergs that mentions the lifting pin to adjust mixture strength. If there is no lifting pin then simply lift the pistons about 1mm with a screwdriver. https://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-a-stromberg-carburettor This is how I adjust mine on the 4A and it seems to work. Keith
  7. Personally not had much success with Colortune on the TR. I usually end up judging whether it is too rich or lean from the way it runs and plug and exhaust colour. I also use the lifting pin on the Strombergs as well to check mixture strength. Not as accurate as a rolling road but ok for general road use. I first used Colortune on a 1967 mini and then it did seem to work well but for some unknown reason on the TR I end up with it reading rich when it is running ok and plugs are light tan in colour. The mini was single SU carb but the TR is twin Stromberg. Maybe Fireman Tom's set up with 4 Colortunes gives a better result. Keith
  8. Hello Dave Maybe cut a screwdriver size slot into the end of the bolt with a junior hacksaw so you can hold it with a screwdriver while tightening the nut. Alternatively there are some epoxy glues that are as strong as metal that could hold the nut but they don't adhere that well to paint. I wouldn't like to spot weld the bolt myself - I have a tendency to end up with too much weld that then needs grinding off. Keith
  9. Interesting observation from Stuart. One of our group has a 4 with a 4A handbrake but seems to need wooden blocks to wedge the car if it is parked on a hill. He has bought the operating lever extenders for the back wheels but not yet fitted them. Moving the pivot point on the 4A handbrake has definitely made a difference to my 4A. TR Bitz or maybe TRGB or London TR shop should be able to supply the parts or ask on the forum as Roger has suggested Keith
  10. Hi 'Geko" You have obviously not lived in Manchester. He had some other friends who were burgled - or should I say there was a knock at the door and when they opened it there was a gang standing there with sawn off shotguns. They held my sons friends at gunpoint while they took what they wanted. When the police finally arrived the only help they could offer was to say to his friends they should move to a different area. I was once in a phone box there with my son phoning a landlord to find a new place for him to live. Outside the phone box someone was being robbed at knifepoint while we were on the phone. Fortunately the robber ran off and left us ok. Another occasion there was a gun battle between drugs gangs nearby. I also remember driving down one road where gangs of youngsters were throwing bricks and stones at passing cars - nice! It's not all like that before someone points that out but there are definitely some areas to avoid. Oh and the story of the car without the steering wheel being stolen is actually true on this occasion. Keith
  11. When my son was at Manchester University, someone he knew used to remove the steering wheel to stop it being stolen. However it just proved to be a challenge to a thief and the car was stolen. When it was found some time later there was a wrench attached to the steering boss. Go for more than one device such as has been suggested by others above - concealed switches, battery isolators and a visible deterrent such as a steering wheel lock. If you leave it anywhere with the top down then wind up the windows to stop people leaning inside to have a look at it. You could always fit a wheel clamp but they are a bit big and bulky to carry around. Keith
  12. Hello Smyllie Your car is a nice colour - what colour green is it? Also on question of pinking don't rule out petrol. Last year a couple of us filled up at a supermarket petrol station and both cars run terribly afterwards. No power, popping and hesitating. Fresh petrol made all the difference. I have standard points system and pinking usually due to dwell angle (points gap) wrong. My static timing from memory is approx 4 deg btdc. Stromberg pistons should lift up and down on lifting pins easily (remove dashpot filler caps to check this). If they don't then needle misaligned with jets. Also there seem to be some thicker rubber diaphragms on sale. Get the ones from Burlen - they seem to be better. If you have the standard vacuum advance then attach a piece of pipe to the disc shaped vacuum advance unit and suck. If the diaphragm inside is ok then you will feel resistance. If you don't then the innards are shot and you need a new one. You should also see the vacuum advance mechanism move inside the distributor when you suck on the pipe. Re whistling from carb area check the end of the vacuum advance pipe is secure at the carbs end and not a loose fit. Also make sure both carbs levers move together. If not loosen one of the 'curly' connectors and adjust so both sets of carbs rods move exactly together. Sometimes the one at the front will start to move before the one at the rear so take up any slack. Problem is you can spend ages trying to sort out these things because it seems to be never a case of only one fault. Good luck - let us know how you solve it. Keith
  13. Hello Gareth To me it looks like the plastic bush has jammed inside the knurled cap that holds it into back of speedo. The cable has continued to turn and 'unwound' the plastic bush. The plastic bush should fit inside the knurled cap but to get the position right first make sure the cable is properly pushed in as far as it will go (so it fully engages at the gearbox end). A thin smear of silicone grease on the plastic or a drop of thin 3 in 1 oil would be enough to stop it binding again. Also the knurled nut only needs to be finger tight. Your cable looks 'dry' compared to mine. Pull the cable out a couple of inches and if the inner cable doesn't spin easily by hand inside the outer then a touch of lubrication is required. People have their own views on what to use but I prefer a thin smear of a thin oil like 3 in 1 oil on the cable (withdraw cable carefully and make sure you don't get it near anything like the carpet where it will get covered in dust and fabric - don't ask how I know). Some oil on a bit of kitchen roll is enough to lubricate the innards. You should be able to turn it easily by hand as it is re-inserted. When it reaches the connection to the gearbox/overdrive, that end of the cable should then slot in and prevent you being able to turn it further. You should also aim to get the cable to run in a smooth arc alongside the gearbox and up through the engine bay, through the grommet hole nearest the back of the speedo and then into the speedo. I have seen cables routed in many twisted pathways and all this does is create friction points. If the cable gets hot because of friction then the plastic bush will heat up and expand (coefficient of expansion of plastic is quite high). This will cause it to jam. Hope this helps. Keith
  14. keith1948

    DIY Waxoyl

    Hi Peter You have seriously awakened my inner tightness as well. £400 to £800 could buy you between 18 and 36 gallons of Waxoyl - enough to last you a lifetime. I use Dinitrol as well as Waxoyl. Dinitrol do a thinner wax for inside cavities and a thicker one for exposed areas. If you do the job yourself then you can see whether you need to treat any of the underside with rust treatment and paint before the wax. I have used a garden sprayer to do the job with a long lance to get into nooks and crannies. Best time to do the job is on a hot day when the Waxoyl flows better. As well as inside the box chassis try to get into the thin gap between the chassis and floor panels. Inside the wheel arches is one potential rust area especially inside rear of rear wheel arches (in front of rear lights). You can thin Waxoyl with turps. Yes it is a very messy job but think of the beer money you are saving by doing it yourself! Keith
  15. Personally I would have fitted rubber bushes on the diff rather than the harder polybush mounts. I would be concerned that the harder mounts would lead to problems with cracked chassis mounting points. The harder mounts would in my view transmit every vibration up through the mounting pins. Just my thoughts. I would be interested in other views on this. Keith
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