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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. I have wondered whether you could improve the tail lights using relays in the same way that the standard headlights are improved while retaining the original filament lamps. Has anyone tried this? Keith
  2. Just glad that I 'improved' my original sealed beam headlights by simply fitting a Moss relay kit. The difference was significant. When I have driven in France in the past I have used clip on yellow beam deflectors. Once upon a time all cars in France had yellow headlamps and those with white stood out like a sore thumb. Now no cars have yellow headlamps in France except my TR. How things change. Not sure how French police would react to yellow headlamps these days. In the interests of originality and simplicity I have stuck with the original lighting as far as possible. Makes life s
  3. We saw Gerry and the Pacemakers in their later touring years. They were very good but thought that the name 'Pacemakers' wasn't the best name for the old rockers. One of them came on stage on crutches and had to sit down. I guess none of them ever thought they would still be playing into their old age. Very sad to hear that Gerry departed this earth though. Will have to get their 45's out to play again. Keith
  4. Hi Andy I think the beauty of a TR is that you can get the battery to fit with either terminals at front or rear and there is plenty of room to fit different sizes. Terminals on mine are at the front nearest engine. It is useful to have the battery label showing. In your case it looks like whoever fitted yours used one with the earth on the left as viewed from the label side. To get the terminals at the engine side you need one with the earth on the right as viewed from label side. Doesn't really matter though unless you are going for concourse. In the past I have used batteries with the
  5. Hello Alan Had a similar problem a while ago which turned out to be a loose connection for the fuse in the fuse holder. Suggest you start there, then check common connection on voltage regulator as Roger said. Then up behind the steering column there is a connection on the loom (look for green wires poking out) and then from there to motor. Check the black earth connections around the wiper motor. Then check the wires that go back to the dashboard switch which in turn earths via one of the black wires next to the motor. Make sure you have some water on the screen or remove wiper arm
  6. Hello Allan Just found a series of 4 videos on youtube about wiper motors that might be useful. Here is the thing to search for on youtube Rolls-Royce Silver Cloud III Wiper Motor Repair Part 1 of 4 I tried pasting the link but didn't want to work. I don't think kick back should happen at all but don't know how to fix it. Keith
  7. Hi Roger Had a problem with the wife's MK4 Fiesta. Hardly any use in lockdown and fuel a few months old. Not sure if that was the cause but the fuel pump packed up completely and had to replace it. Maybe just a coincidence or maybe not. A few years ago at a Welsh weekend, two of us filled our TR's up at the same garage and had problems with our engines misfiring and running badly afterwards. Fresh fuel cured that problem. Maybe the brown colour was rust or maybe oxidation of fuel components? As to question of do you fill up the tank or drain it for storage, I think maybe fill up
  8. Hello Steve I had this problem with my 4A for a while. Tried everything you have. Solution was to fit NGK BP7HS fast road plugs that run cooler than the standard BP6HS. Plug gap is 0.025inch. A cooler plug is less likely to cause run on after switching off the engine. Keith
  9. The answer is...................... Mirror sunglasses!!!!!! Keith
  10. Thanks for finding those Ian and Stuart. Just found similar from Demon Tweeks with same part numbers. Anyway main thing is that they are readily available and we now have the part numbers. Maybe treat the car after it passed it's MOT this morning. Thanks Keith
  11. Hello John I would echo what Howard has put. I had a long chat with Kevin Nicks, the designer and driver of the fastest shed on wheels about a year ago. He wanted to fit rear fog lights to the back of his 'shed'. He told me there are regulations apparently concerning these. I have 2 designs of rear fog that can be fitted under/above rear bumper. One is simply marked 'halogen'. The other EEC approved is marked F [E11] 007 on the lens. The F designates an approved fog lens. This one has a 12v/21W bulb.I don't know whether the halogen ones are road legal or not. I haven't fitted either as ye
  12. Hi Aridon Check the wiring to the radio and around the ignition circuit area. The radio feed wire comes off the ignition switch. See this link to TR6 wiring diagrams and look at the 1974 version. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf According to that there is a white/pink wire off connection 5 of the switch. You normally then have an in-line fuse between the radio and ignition. Sounds like a power surge when you start the engine or maybe more likely a dodgy earth connection somewhere. If there is a dodgy earth wire to the engine or battery or alternator for example the
  13. Hello Roger The body of the master cylinder is Ali as you say but the caps are attracted to a magnet so must be steel/iron in there somewhere because aluminium isn't magnetic. The brown stuff looks like rust. Aluminium oxide is white and fluffy in appearance (as you will know) and looks completely different. Also dot4 is reported not to affect aluminium but is hygroscopic but it contains corrosion inhibitors. I might try cleaning up the inside of the caps and then using a rust passivator to neutralise any remaining rust. Can't paint it obviously since dot4 is quite good at stripping paint
  14. Just found the original caps that were on the car when I got it 30 years ago. They are steel and very rusty inside which is why I replaced them. Problem seems to be the dot4 fluid in contact with the metal. Can't understand why during manufacture they didn't treat the inside of the caps as they do on the inside of tins of fruit or tomatoes to stop rusting. Mind you there is less oxygen inside a tin of fruit so less oxidation potential for the iron. Thanks Pete - that would maybe work on the threaded part but still leaves the corrosion between the rubber seal and the inside of the lid.
  15. Hi Roger, Andy, Stuart, Rust seems to be on the caps rather than the cylinders. They look like aluminium caps but something is iron somewhere. There is brown 'stuff' under the rubber seals inside the lids and it looks like rust. I think I might have seen ally ones on sale before. I have what might be original caps somewhere but I replaced them because of rust inside. The cylinders aren't rusting. Andy's point about the size of the plastic caps is a good one. Not much of a gap between the cylinders. On a different note just looked at mileage done this year in the TR - 5 miles! Ju
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