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keith1948 last won the day on January 1

keith1948 had the most liked content!

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Sorry Roger - I'm not responsible for your flat battery -honest! I have an old battery in the garage that shows the green spot that says it is ok but it is 7 years old and was replaced by a new one 3 or 4 years ago. I can charge it up and it appears to hold its charge but not confident that it would be reliable in the car. Batteries are usually fine in the warmer summer months but soon show whether they are any good or not when the cold winter weather sets in. Interesting comment from Nigel about refilling the battery with fresh acid to extend its life. Several videos on the internet claim to rejuvenate batteries with epsom salts and coca cola but wouldn't trust that method. And as for this method??? - just make sure you wear your open toe sandals when you spill the acid! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afwO_MZjRjA Keith
  2. Hello Rob, Nigel, John Thanks for your replies. Never thought much about this subject until a couple of days ago. I have since done some more research on battery chargers. Mine is a Bradex turbo fast 10 which is 10 amp RMS max with microchip control. It was bought for my dad back in the 1980’s from Argos but has worked fine for last 30 years. The Fiesta battery is 46amp hour. I have read that batteries should be charged at 10% of amp hour rate. So the battery in the Fiesta should charge at 4.6 amp which is what it seemed to be on the 'high' setting. After charging for about 8 hours on the high setting for the afternoon it said charging complete. A 46 amp hour battery charging at about 4 amp should take about 10 hours so not far off. I could then turn it to the 'low' setting to put some more energy into it. The car turned over and fired up this morning. Whether it will hold the charge time will tell. I also have a very old charger from the late 1960's early 1970's which has no frills - it just charges. That puts out enough power to do the job on an old calcium battery that I thought was ready for the scrap yard. Apparently if your car has start/stop technology, you'll have an AGM or EFB battery. A conventional charger isn’t suitable for these types of batteries and you’ll need a 'smart' charger instead. I often yearn for the days when you could just buy a bog-standard lead/acid battery for the car and put it in and stick it on a charger when it was flat. If you were really flash you could get a 'heavy duty' battery. I agree with Nigel that new technology is not always to the advantage of the consumer. Keith
  3. Help required. Our old Ford Fiesta has only moved once since lockdown and today the battery was unable to start the engine. No problem I thought - just charge it up. That is when the problem started. The battery is a lead acid calcium battery. The charger I have had for years and works fine with standard lead acid batteries. Will it work with a calcium battery or do I need a different type of charger. I put it on the high setting and it seemed to put some charge into the battery - enough to start the car and eventually said "charging complete". However looking in the Machine Mart catalogue there seems to be different chargers for different types of batteries and some that will charge all types and some that won't. Calcium batteries seem to need 'special' charging. Anyone able to advise on what I thought would be a simple operation? Which chargers are for which batteries? Keith
  4. Hello John Just a couple of ideas. I once had the master cylinder fail because the spring inside it broke. Also had problems in the past bleeding the brakes. I now make sure the rear wheel cylinder pistons are pushed right in and held in place with a clamp and the front calliper pistons are also pushed in and clamped. This minimises the chance of air being trapped inside them. Hope you get it sorted and share the cause because I know another TR owner with failed brakes. Keith
  5. Hello Brian Hope you are both well. Only thing I can suggest is copious penetrating oil and a beer or two. (The beer is for you not the bumper!) I had a nightmare job trying to get the back bumper off my 4A so can understand the issues. Maybe email me a photo or two to see if I can suggest something. Keith Brown
  6. Possibly old fuel, maybe sediment from the tank in the fuel lines if it has been stood for some time. Change the fuel filter if it has one and put some fresh fuel in it. This worked when my wife's Fiesta did something similar. Combination of old (thicker) fuel and old blocked fuel filter. Keith
  7. keith1948


    Hello Marco I seem to remember I had a BMW 3 series with the self adjusting mechanism and there was a hole so you could insert a screwdriver to back it off if needed so you could get the drum off. Can't remember though whether it was on the face of the drum or in the backplate - it was some years ago and I no longer have the workshop manual. Just thought it was worth mentioning before you fit it and can't get it off. Cheers Keith
  8. keith1948


    Hi Marco At the weekend I spent some time getting the handbrake to work on a BMW Mini. The footbrake worked but not the handbrake. There is a single piston operating a calliper on the rear disc brakes. The calliper slides on 2 guide pins which in turn slide through 2 rubber sleeves which fit inside 2 holes on the calliper. Over time, moisture creeps between the rubber sleeves and the alloy calliper and you get some corrosion. The corrosion expands, pushing on the rubber sleeve and the guide rods are then a tight fit. I dis-assembled it all. There was minimal corrosion, less than about 0.5mm, but this was enough to stop the handbrake working. After cleaning it up and silicon greasing moving parts, the handbrake worked perfectly. Couldn't believe how such a small increase in friction completely stopped the handbrake. And this on a modern BMW Mini. Looking at your photos I can't see any grease on the moving parts. I always put copper grease or brake grease on the 3 dimples on the backplate that the shoes slide on. Also the adjuster faces and the piston faces as well the sliding mechanism for the piston. In the experience I had with the Mini brakes I would recommend ensuring all moving parts are suitably greased. As I say I couldn't believe what a difference it made on the Mini. It sailed through the brake efficiency test at the local garage MOT a couple of days ago. I must say I am very impressed with your engineering and look forward to the next instalment. Good luck Keith
  9. Yesterday was terrible. I spent all day trying to work out why the footbrake worked but the handbrake didn't on a Mini One a few days before the MOT. Decided to put the wheels back on and sleep on the problem. Today success. The callipers (single piston) slide on guide pins which are located inside rubber tubes fitted into the callipers. Over time moisture works its way between the rubber and the aluminium and corrosion sets in. This expands and constricts the rubber sleeves which in turn stops the callipers sliding on the guide pins. Today I pushed out the rubber sleeves, cleaned up the very slight bit of corrosion and refitted with silicone grease, More silicone on the guide pins and the callipers slide easily now and the handbrake works a treat. Who would have thought that such a small problem could stop the handbrake working completely. I have stored this useful bit of info in the old grey cells and made a metal note that when it comes to brakes - make sure everything that should move does. Maybe now I can get back to the TR and the long overdue gearbox removal. Keith p.s. I read with envy the posts on page 51 about those of you with 4 post lifts and garages that are enormous. I will have to take the door off the TR to get the gearbox out. Last time (I was younger then and fitter) I lifted it over the door as I stepped over the door and scratched the surrey top frame. I won't do that again.
  10. Hello Lee Had a similar problem years ago that turned out to be loose/dirty contact for power connection to starter motor. Cleaned it up and made sure it was tightened up and back in business. Also agree with others above that old grease on Bendix doesn't help. Keith
  11. keith1948


    Regarding debate on double vs single piston brake cylinders. I have a MK4 Ford Fiesta with self adjusting rear brakes with a double piston. When the brake pedal is pressed, pressure is applied to the system and one piston moves before the other. They never move together. Over time the one that moves second seizes up. Had many happy hours freeing up the second piston on the rear brakes of this car. The TR single piston achilles heel is that it must slide on the backplate. It is vital that this is checked regularly and copper grease/oil is smeared onto the sliding face. I have done Rogers suggested mod of moving the pivot point on the handbrake of my 4A. I moved it 11mm and the difference is incredible. No more white knuckle moments on steep hills. Keith
  12. What green indeed. There seem to be as many shades of 'British racing green' as there are cars on the road. The colour also looks different depending on whether the sun is shining or it is a dull day or it is indoors under different types of lighting. It is almost impossible to photograph a green car and end up with something that looks the same on the photo. I have a 4A that was originally conifer green. However this has now acquired a different shade after 55 years in those areas of the car with still the original colour. The Jaguar racing green is a nice colour but more green than the Triumph equivalent. Conifer green is more of a blue-green and not used on the cars before the 4/4A as far as I am aware. My 4A is Vauxhall Jade Green which is a nice colour but not original of course. When I bought the car the salesman said it was American racing green - as if! I am torn between going back to the conifer green to preserve originality (but I don't like the colour), going to Jaguar racing green which is a nicer colour (but again non original) or saying to hell with it and respraying with the Jade green. In the end it is what shade you are happy with and does the car look good or not. Keith
  13. Get a piece of aluminium cut to same size as the badge and thickness same as the gap each side between badge and plinth. Then gradually file away the aluminium from the centre to the outside so the middle is thinner than the outside edges. Eventually you will have shaped the piece of aluminium so when it fits between the badge and the mounting plinth it will fit without having to bend the badge. If you try to bend the badge you will almost certainly crack it. Polish up the edges of the aluminium and you won't notice it has been modified. Keith good luck
  14. Hello John I was told you picked up the TR4 grille (not bumper as I mis-stated above) from Ian that I left on the Register stand. I kept coming back to the stand from time to time but it seems each time I was told you had disappeared to find a bacon bap. Not sure how many of these you consumed during the day? Not as many people there as usual probably because of the weather. Just glad that everything was indoors! Keith
  15. Hello John I have the TR4 bumper from Ian to give to you tomorrow at the Register stand. In relation to whats where, I contacted the organisers who had a list of exhibitors (with no locations) and a map (with stand numbers but no idea who was where). I got them to list the exhibitors with their stand numbers so you could then cross reference with the maps. You would think that was logical but.... anyway they updated the web page so exhibitors are now listed with their locations. Anyway to answer your question, you enter into hall 2, then turn left to hall 1 and then go to the right down to the end of hall 1 and there is the entrance to hall 3 which is where the club stands are.. Also hello to Conrad - I'll see you tomorrow as well to pick up Ian's light fitting Keith
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