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keith1948 last won the day on January 1

keith1948 had the most liked content!

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About keith1948

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    Cotswold Vale

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  1. Possibly old fuel, maybe sediment from the tank in the fuel lines if it has been stood for some time. Change the fuel filter if it has one and put some fresh fuel in it. This worked when my wife's Fiesta did something similar. Combination of old (thicker) fuel and old blocked fuel filter. Keith
  2. keith1948


    Hello Marco I seem to remember I had a BMW 3 series with the self adjusting mechanism and there was a hole so you could insert a screwdriver to back it off if needed so you could get the drum off. Can't remember though whether it was on the face of the drum or in the backplate - it was some years ago and I no longer have the workshop manual. Just thought it was worth mentioning before you fit it and can't get it off. Cheers Keith
  3. keith1948


    Hi Marco At the weekend I spent some time getting the handbrake to work on a BMW Mini. The footbrake worked but not the handbrake. There is a single piston operating a calliper on the rear disc brakes. The calliper slides on 2 guide pins which in turn slide through 2 rubber sleeves which fit inside 2 holes on the calliper. Over time, moisture creeps between the rubber sleeves and the alloy calliper and you get some corrosion. The corrosion expands, pushing on the rubber sleeve and the guide rods are then a tight fit. I dis-assembled it all. There was minimal corrosion, less than about 0.5mm, but this was enough to stop the handbrake working. After cleaning it up and silicon greasing moving parts, the handbrake worked perfectly. Couldn't believe how such a small increase in friction completely stopped the handbrake. And this on a modern BMW Mini. Looking at your photos I can't see any grease on the moving parts. I always put copper grease or brake grease on the 3 dimples on the backplate that the shoes slide on. Also the adjuster faces and the piston faces as well the sliding mechanism for the piston. In the experience I had with the Mini brakes I would recommend ensuring all moving parts are suitably greased. As I say I couldn't believe what a difference it made on the Mini. It sailed through the brake efficiency test at the local garage MOT a couple of days ago. I must say I am very impressed with your engineering and look forward to the next instalment. Good luck Keith
  4. Yesterday was terrible. I spent all day trying to work out why the footbrake worked but the handbrake didn't on a Mini One a few days before the MOT. Decided to put the wheels back on and sleep on the problem. Today success. The callipers (single piston) slide on guide pins which are located inside rubber tubes fitted into the callipers. Over time moisture works its way between the rubber and the aluminium and corrosion sets in. This expands and constricts the rubber sleeves which in turn stops the callipers sliding on the guide pins. Today I pushed out the rubber sleeves, cleaned up the very slight bit of corrosion and refitted with silicone grease, More silicone on the guide pins and the callipers slide easily now and the handbrake works a treat. Who would have thought that such a small problem could stop the handbrake working completely. I have stored this useful bit of info in the old grey cells and made a metal note that when it comes to brakes - make sure everything that should move does. Maybe now I can get back to the TR and the long overdue gearbox removal. Keith p.s. I read with envy the posts on page 51 about those of you with 4 post lifts and garages that are enormous. I will have to take the door off the TR to get the gearbox out. Last time (I was younger then and fitter) I lifted it over the door as I stepped over the door and scratched the surrey top frame. I won't do that again.
  5. Hello Lee Had a similar problem years ago that turned out to be loose/dirty contact for power connection to starter motor. Cleaned it up and made sure it was tightened up and back in business. Also agree with others above that old grease on Bendix doesn't help. Keith
  6. keith1948


    Regarding debate on double vs single piston brake cylinders. I have a MK4 Ford Fiesta with self adjusting rear brakes with a double piston. When the brake pedal is pressed, pressure is applied to the system and one piston moves before the other. They never move together. Over time the one that moves second seizes up. Had many happy hours freeing up the second piston on the rear brakes of this car. The TR single piston achilles heel is that it must slide on the backplate. It is vital that this is checked regularly and copper grease/oil is smeared onto the sliding face. I have done Rogers suggested mod of moving the pivot point on the handbrake of my 4A. I moved it 11mm and the difference is incredible. No more white knuckle moments on steep hills. Keith
  7. What green indeed. There seem to be as many shades of 'British racing green' as there are cars on the road. The colour also looks different depending on whether the sun is shining or it is a dull day or it is indoors under different types of lighting. It is almost impossible to photograph a green car and end up with something that looks the same on the photo. I have a 4A that was originally conifer green. However this has now acquired a different shade after 55 years in those areas of the car with still the original colour. The Jaguar racing green is a nice colour but more green than the Triumph equivalent. Conifer green is more of a blue-green and not used on the cars before the 4/4A as far as I am aware. My 4A is Vauxhall Jade Green which is a nice colour but not original of course. When I bought the car the salesman said it was American racing green - as if! I am torn between going back to the conifer green to preserve originality (but I don't like the colour), going to Jaguar racing green which is a nicer colour (but again non original) or saying to hell with it and respraying with the Jade green. In the end it is what shade you are happy with and does the car look good or not. Keith
  8. Get a piece of aluminium cut to same size as the badge and thickness same as the gap each side between badge and plinth. Then gradually file away the aluminium from the centre to the outside so the middle is thinner than the outside edges. Eventually you will have shaped the piece of aluminium so when it fits between the badge and the mounting plinth it will fit without having to bend the badge. If you try to bend the badge you will almost certainly crack it. Polish up the edges of the aluminium and you won't notice it has been modified. Keith good luck
  9. Hello John I was told you picked up the TR4 grille (not bumper as I mis-stated above) from Ian that I left on the Register stand. I kept coming back to the stand from time to time but it seems each time I was told you had disappeared to find a bacon bap. Not sure how many of these you consumed during the day? Not as many people there as usual probably because of the weather. Just glad that everything was indoors! Keith
  10. Hello John I have the TR4 bumper from Ian to give to you tomorrow at the Register stand. In relation to whats where, I contacted the organisers who had a list of exhibitors (with no locations) and a map (with stand numbers but no idea who was where). I got them to list the exhibitors with their stand numbers so you could then cross reference with the maps. You would think that was logical but.... anyway they updated the web page so exhibitors are now listed with their locations. Anyway to answer your question, you enter into hall 2, then turn left to hall 1 and then go to the right down to the end of hall 1 and there is the entrance to hall 3 which is where the club stands are.. Also hello to Conrad - I'll see you tomorrow as well to pick up Ian's light fitting Keith
  11. According to gov.uk website the TR is now listed as green in colour and taxed until July and was first registered September 1964
  12. Very interesting airflow simulations in the earlier posts above. I was once involved in computational fluid dynamics (CFD) looking at air movement in clean rooms. The comment that centrally placed exhaust pipes may result in better extraction of exhaust fumes is particularly interesting. When I bought my 4A it had a crossbox with the pipe exiting near the nearside over-rider. I often had to clean the soot off this. I then changed to twin pipes that exit more towards the centre line of the car. I still had some issues until I extended the tail pipes beyond the bumper. They are now 13 inches apart (centre to centre) and extend 4 inches beyond the bumper. Sounds a lot but looks ok. The extension pipes also to some extent direct the gases down towards the airflow under the car shown in Kev's simulation. This would appear to be better than the fashionable open ended pipes seen on many TR's The first simulation by Kev also shows the vortex behind the windscreen when the top of the car is down. This explains why, when driving through drizzly rain with the top down, the inside of the windscreen gets covered in rain as well as the outside. Fascinating stuff - thanks to the tech guys Keith p.s. this would make a really good article for TRAction!
  13. Hello Robert Glad you have recovered the door plate. Re alignement - as Roger says a fiddly job. When I was trying to line up my drivers door I slightly loosened the hinge bolts and door catch so I was able to push and pull the door into position. I also loosened the bolts holding the front end of the rear wing because that can move in and out a bit as well. If the various bolts are not too loose then you can then open the door once it is in line and do up the bolts. It may also then be necessary with a hammer and piece of wood to 'adjust' the lip of the door opening to get the furflex to fit properly. There is also some in/out movement on the rear edge of the front wing. It may also be necessary to add or subtract from the packing between the rear of the body shell and the chassis. Once you have the door in the best fit you can achieve then wind up the windows and look at the gap between the glass and the windscreen. Again there is some adjustment on the brackets under the dashboard each side that hold the windscreen on. Curved spanners are useful to get at the nuts holding these brackets. Altering the angle of the windscreen will then have altered slightly the fit of the hood, surrey or hard top so that might need some adjustment as well. It's all a bit like a giant Rubik's cube. Good luck Keith
  14. The back of the TR6 is more square than earlier TR's. This may cause the exhaust fumes to swirl around the back of the car more than a TR4 or 5. The solution may be to experiment with the length of the exhaust tailpipe. Having a good boot seal and good rear light seals is obvious. It would be interesting to put a 6 and a 5 in a wind tunnel to see how the exhaust fumes behave. Failing that maybe stick some Redex into the carbs, drive along with someone in a car behind and see where the smoke goes. I used to demonstrate air flow around doorways in clean rooms using a portable smoke generator. It was amazing what we learnt about air movement using this simple technique. I extended the exhaust pipes on my twin exhaust on the TR4A. Before I did that the back of the boot and the bumper would collect water droplets and soot particles from the exhaust. Keith
  15. Has anyone any experience of using a two pack resin primer on wheels? Keith
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