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Everything posted by keith1948

  1. For info this is my annual check list prior to MOT. It lists service intervals and I fill in the date or mileage when things were last done. I use a similar check list for the more modern cars we have as well. Just find it useful to be able to tick off items on the check list rather than rely on memory. Also has info on settings and part numbers rather than having to search through a workshop manual or parts catalogues. Keith p.s. you need to be signed in to read the attachment TR Service Schedule.docx
  2. If I change from 95 to 97 RON fuel I can get problems because the timing is set up for 95 fuel (4 degrees before top dead centre). Pinking is ignition too far advanced. Rather than points gap checking with a feeler gauge I use a dwell angle meter (57 degrees from memory) because I find it is easier to set spark gap that way. If you have Stromberg carbs then check that the rubber diaphragms are not split. Just remove top of carb and look at the rubbers visually. Make sure the needle in the carb lifts and falls back easily using the lifting pin on the side. Clean off any soot from around ca
  3. Hi Marco You are a star - many thanks for doing this. I shall have to polish the trailing arm to match the parts! I'll report back. Thanks Keith
  4. Hi Marco, many thanks for your kind offer. Can I also have a pair of spacers for my IRS 4A. I might already have some old clutch plate springs. I have just been reading your post on this in Handbraaake from last year and remember thinking at the time that raising the cable would make a lot of sense. I also remember thinking that the Triumph designers probably never had to get at the nut holding the part onto the trailing arm. I have to remove the nut and lift the cable to remove the drive shafts. Cheers Keith
  5. Hi Marco I am happy with your earlier estimate of 26% improvement for the lever extension. Un-modified, the handbrake is not good. The handbrake lever modification was an impressive improvement during the annual MOT test. Well the examiner said it was better then a number of modern cars which begs the question as to why designers cannot get this right. Maybe the newer 'press a button' systems are not so good after all and just a gimmick. Of course with additional force with the possible modifications it is important to ensure the pivot point and mechanism around the brake cylinder an
  6. The mark one version of the extended brake levers were simply longer but still with same angle. The main issue was that in order to fit them, you had to extend the handbrake cable to get them to fit. The mark 2 version shown in the 2nd diagram below was angled towards the cable so there was no need to alter the length of the cable. The arc of movement is now the same as the original lever but further away from the pivot point X but retaining the arc of movement of the handbrake cable. In theory this should increase the leverage. I have both the mark 1 and mark 2 versions but never fitted eithe
  7. attached is how to do 4A handbrake mod (you need to be logged in to see the attachment) Improving TR4A.doc
  8. Reading experience of Hamish above is why I have replaced original fuel line on my 4A for a single pipe with no rubber connectors under the car. Years ago my father had a Triumph Vitesse that also had rubber connectors on the fuel line. When the copper pipe had been pushed into the rubber pipe it had peeled off a piece of rubber inside and this acted like a one-way flap valve reducing the flow of petrol from the tank. Took the garage a while to find that fault. As for intermittent running etc, one of my friends with a 3A had a similar problem caused by 'bad' petrol from a supermarket gara
  9. Hi Richard In my experience, odd electrical faults like this are often due to a bad earth connection somewhere and not necessarily on the indicator circuit. I remember one where pressing the horn push resulted in one of dashboard warning lights coming on because of poor earth on one of the horns. Try tracing all your earths. Keith
  10. Make sure you have the correct voltage regulator as well. The more modern solid state ones are either + or - earth. The older ones based on the heated coil innards work on either + or - earth cars so don't need changing. Also check any accessories that may be fitted. I once tried fitting a + earth clock to my - earth car but trying to insulate the earthed metal case from the car body proved near impossible. The electric motor inside the clock also could not be reverse connected without lots of electrickery either. Check the radio as well. Keith
  11. My 1965 4A is a USA import and has only had the square type with no push button since I got it 30 years ago Keith
  12. Here is a link to the instructions on how to install the Moss headlamp relay kit that I fitted a few years ago to my car https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/media/pdf/117-515_instructions.pdf Hope it helps Keith
  13. Hello Paul Maybe remove door seal rubber and furflex and then try to close the door. With the rubbers removed you can see better from the inside whether door is fitting evenly. Slacken off striker screws a fraction and also hinge adjustment nuts and then with a bit of luck you can push and pull door into some sort of approximate alignment. Then replace door seals and push and pull a bit more and again with a bit of luck it will fit. I have had similar issues in the past and this was the only way I could get a reasonable fit. Don't slacken adjusting screws/nuts too much - just enough so yo
  14. Hi Richard When the battery is on charge it will warm up a bit and so condensation won't occur. When it isn't on charge it will be cold. Recent weather patterns have been cold spells with warm humid weather between. This will cause condensation as you probably know. The plastic tray stops any battery acid getting onto the bodywork and causing rust. Had a similar problem with condensation on the engine recently producing some 'liquid' in the drip tray underneath the car. Ventilation of the garage doesn't help much if the car gets very cold and then we have warm humid conditions. Car might
  15. Yes leave it if you are happy with it. Only purists will worry. I have a left hand drive wiring loom in a RHD car. It even had right hand dipping headlamps with an MOT when I bought it. Soon changed that though. Cheers Keith
  16. I think jpmf might have a LHD light switch fitted to RHS. If you think upside down then if switch was on left side then you would switch downwards for sides then headlights and flasher and plastic end would be ok as well. Don't think my switch has a flasher. Will have to reconnect battery and give it a go. Keith
  17. My 4A (originally left hand drive) has 3 switches on the column. On the right is the light switch with 3 positions. Up = off, 1st position down = sidelights, fully down = headlights. The reply above has the switch on upside down I think. Also on the right is the overdrive switch. Down = on and up = off On the left is the indicator switch. Centre = off, up = right indicators, down = left indicators. Note that LHD and RHD cars have indicators and lights on opposite sides of the column. There is a circlip on the column that you can see if you remove the 2 plastic cowls from ar
  18. Hello all Just been reading this article on BBC website, Here is the link https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-london-56085529 Scroll down a fair way down the article about plague and smog masks and there is a photo of a driver in a TR4 in London in 1971 wearing a gas mask to protect against the smog. Does any one recognise the driver or maybe you recognise yourself? Keith
  19. In theory changing polarity should be simple but as you have discovered there can be unforeseen problems. In addition to comments above I would also suggest you check the voltage regulator. The old wire type are ok but the newer solid state ones are polarity dependent. I also once tried connecting a metal bodied clock that was positive earth to my negative earth car. Spent ages trying to insulate it and gave up in the end. Keith
  20. As for the car it was once owned by a James Inder in 2007 if you search on t’internet for reg number and TRDC. It comes up with a report on Register website. Keith
  21. But who has the car now because it is still on the road? And what happened to the couple who were driving it then in the 1950's/60's? Keith
  22. Is it possible to reduce size of photos posted months or years ago because I ran out of space a while back. I know I could delete each photo individually and then try to reduce the size of the original and put that back onto the post. Is there any way of doing it on the post itself? Keith
  23. Was browsing the internet when I came across this 1960's cine film of UYM 990 in Scotland. The car is still on the road so if you own this car then have a look at this film of your car back then. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dllwl8Iz8FI Keith
  24. I have wondered whether you could improve the tail lights using relays in the same way that the standard headlights are improved while retaining the original filament lamps. Has anyone tried this? Keith
  25. Just glad that I 'improved' my original sealed beam headlights by simply fitting a Moss relay kit. The difference was significant. When I have driven in France in the past I have used clip on yellow beam deflectors. Once upon a time all cars in France had yellow headlamps and those with white stood out like a sore thumb. Now no cars have yellow headlamps in France except my TR. How things change. Not sure how French police would react to yellow headlamps these days. In the interests of originality and simplicity I have stuck with the original lighting as far as possible. Makes life s
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