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Charlie D

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    Hereford (UK)

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  1. Ian, Fact is stranger than fiction. A guy I used to work with makes a living from selling prints of parts of burnt out cars. http://johngarghan.co.uk/about-the-work/ Charlie D.
  2. Roger, +1 for what Rob says. DO NOT USE THAT COMPUTER UNTIL YOU HAVE RECOVERED THE DELETED FILE. Normally all that "Deletion" does is replace the first character of the file name with a different character (I think it used to be "$".) That means that with quite easily available software you can recover deleted files. But... if you keep using the machine, and there is not a lot of spare space, you could over write those "$" files. I'm off to have a bath just now, but if no one comes up with the answer before tomorrow, I'll try to point you in the right direction. (I've done it before myself, when I've deleted things and they have gone from the waste bin.) Charlie.
  3. Hello All, Not sure if any of you have seen this site before. OK, it’s not a TR, but look at the pictures and you will recognize a lot of the parts. (Skip down the first 20 odd pictures until you get to the car arriving at the workshop, on the back of a transporter.) It just shows what you can do if you are determined to do it, without a perfect workshop and probably a limited amount of tools. https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/post-war/168366-1958-standard-vanguard-phase-iii-restoration.html Charlie
  4. Ian, Mine is a 1959. When I bought the car it was not modified in any way as far as I could tell, so I would guess it came out of the factory like that. Hmmm…. Come to think more about it, it did have a chrome gear knob, so maybe a previous owner put a fancy handbrake grip on at the same time. Charlie
  5. Ian, Not sure when the change came, but my handbrake has a metal grip. If you are not too bothered about originality for the year, maybe you could find a metal one . Charlie.
  6. Charlie D

    4a Rebuild

    I’m sure that many people will disagree with me, but personally I would not do a “Major” rebuild. I’ve just finished my 3A .I took it down to the last nut and bolt in the early 1980’s and now wish I’d just done bits to it as and when. What ever you do it will cost you 3x what you thought it was gong to cost and probably take you 5x longer than you expected. Depending on your personality it might even drive you insane. Just fix it all bit by bit. Start with the safety things (Like the brake cylinders) and then go on to the cosmetic bits. It means that you will still be able to drive the car (with just a few weeks gaps while doing the work every so often). That alone would have made me a lot happier if I’d done it that way. And don’t forget, if you do a major rebuild you will almost certainly never get back the money you have spent when you come to sell it eventually. I shall now duck down behind the wall. Charlie.
  7. A few months ago I was sending a parcel and the “Youth” behind the PO counter said: “What’s in the parcel?” I said: “A Sony Walkman” I was expecting the next question to be “Have you taken the batteries out?” but instead he frowned and said: “What’s a Sony Walkman?” I said: “A sort of tape recorder.” Youth said: “What’s a tape recorder?” I replied: “A musical instrument.” Youth said: “Oh, that’s OK.” I guess that you just need to tell them that it’s something that they understand and will be happy to accept and all will be fine. Charlie.
  8. Hello, Just be aware that something that I, and other people, have mentioned before is that all “Early” TR steel wheels are not all the same. They may look the same, at first glance, but there is a ½ inch offset difference between some wheels. I’ve looked at the forum archives about this and never really come up with a date/reason for the change. All I know is that I once bought a set of four second hand steel wheels and one of them had a different offset. In my case it was really annoying because I used the outer part of the wheel as a reference to get the body centralized on the chassis. Fitted it all up. Took all the wheels off and put them back in a different order and the whole bl**dy thing was sque-wif . If you buy second hand wheels just hold a bit of 2x2 (or 50 x 50 as you are in Holland) wood across the outer part of the rim and then measure down to the bit where the nuts fit. Make sure that anything you get has the same measurement as your original wheels. Charlie
  9. Roger, I had a similar problem and only managed to find one in the “£1 odds and ends” basket at an auto jumble. Be aware that if you go along that route there are a couple of different sized glass bowls, which look similar, but have different sized clips. Charlie.
  10. Hello Niclas, You say that you sent them to a wheel “Specialist”, but the result was not perfect. The idea of using 15 inch VW rims seems feasible, but I would have expected a “Specialist” to have done a similar reconstruction before, and known it would work. I don’t know the “Terms and conditions” you were given before the work was carried out, but if they said, “We will try but it may not work”, then, OK , it was a gamble. If they said, “Sure, of course we can do it”, I hope that they did not charge you for the work. The older I get, the more “Specialists” I meet that don’t have a bl**dy clue. (I’m not just talking about car “Specialists” I’m talking about people like “Accountants” and “Solicitors”…. Please don’t get me going…) Charlie.
  11. Laurence There is a place just down the road from you in Hereford. https://www.tech-hose.co.uk/ They stock just about anything you can think of that has a use in hydraulics. They claim to have a catalogue of over 48,000 products. (If you visit their trade counter they seem to have them all on display!) The biggest problem is trying to find what you need on their site.Maybe try here first: https://www.tech-hose.co.uk/products/adaptors-fittings/brass-adaptors/ Charlie.
  12. Rod, You asked: "Question 1 what size and shape of socket is required to remove internal nut from the clutch tube.?" Not sure of the size but the only spanner I could find that worked (perfectly) was a "Box spanner" Worth getting a set as they are quite cheap and once you have them you will wonder how you ever lived without one. Charlie
  13. Thanks for that Drew. I used the method you mentioned and found that with a stick just fitting at the front of the wheels there was no way it would fit at the back. I know it’s no way accurate, but I’m guessing it was more than ¼ inch toe OUT ! Spent half an hour to get it to where it was definitely toeing in by a bit (made sure that the ball joint to ball joint distance was the same on both sides) and took it for a drive. It’s a different car…. Amazing what a simple adjustment can make. I actually feel safe in it now. I’ll fit the Revington top plate in a few days as there is some play in the steering (I did not expect the tracking to make any difference there.) Bob, I’ve read before that you made your own top plate. Now seeing the real thing I realize it would not be that difficult. I admire your trust in your engineering. I just felt that I’d pay the money for peace of mind. I’ll also re-do the Silentbloc that I tightened up in the full lock position. Looking close at it I can see why I put it on full lock. It’s not easy to get a spanner to it in the straight ahead position. I would not be surprised if most people who replace them do them on full lock.(Of course, with the modified versions it would not make a difference.) Thanks again everyone for all the help. Charlie.
  14. Thanks all for the comments. I haven’t tried the car at more than 50 at the moment. I feel there is more that I need to do to get it feeling a bit better first. The Revington top plate arrives today so I’ll see what happens when I fit that. I've heard both good and bad reports... I’ve already changed the idler as the one I had originally fitted had a bit of play in it. The replacement seems almost as good as new as far as wear is concerned BUT when I fitted it I was on full lock to the left and when I took it for a test drive I “Thought” that it pulled to the left, hence my question about tightening up in the straight ahead position. I will also check the toe in. I used the method of measuring from rod end to rod end (7 point something inches.) I remember Don Elliot seemed to believe in that method. I’ve never really understood how you can measure toe in with a bit of string between the inside of the wheels. Whenever I’ve tried it the engine seems to get in the way (Although that may well be a subject for another thread…) Drew said: “Early cars in particular are very sensitive to steering alignment” Mine is a ’59 so not early by a long way. Any idea what was different with the front suspension between early and late cars? Charlie
  15. Hello All, Just taken my 3a around the block for the first time in 40 odd years. Nice feeling of achievement, but I’d forgotten how difficult the car was to drive. Main problem is that the steering seems to have a mind of it’s own. I’ve read dozens of pages of advice in the archives of the forum and I’m sure that I’ll get it sorted eventually. However there is one thing that intrigues me. I know that both Moss and Revington do their own version of the Silentbloc bushes at the end of the central arm (drag link), but my query concerns the original bushes. In the Silentbloc the pin does not move freely inside the outer part. It is bonded to it with the rubber. This means (I think) that if you hold the outer part solid and twist the pin it will return, when you let it go, to the original place. (I see it a bit like Indespension rubber suspension units used on small trailers as springs.) Does this not mean that, as long as the bushes have been tightened up with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position, they have some effect on the “Self centering” of the steering? (I believe that the 2/3/3a has no caster angle so there is no self-centering in the normal sense of the word.) If that is so then if the bushes were tightened up with the wheels on full lock the spring action of the Silentbloc would try to pull the steering over to that side. Was the Silentbloc intended to offer some degree of self-centering, an if so the “Improved “ versions would not have the same ability. How do people with the improved bushes find self centering (If indeed it exists)? Charlie.
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