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Cars?
I’ve had a few.
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In the 1970s my wife and myself used to live in a flat where the bathroom, toilet and kitchen were all in one small room.The cooker was an ancient rusting Baby Belling electric job and it was possible lay in the bath and open the oven door to see how the Sunday lunch was going. My wife frequently used an electric hair dryer whilst in the bath. It's funny how all of us of a certain age just took it all for granted.
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That was my understanding of the regulations as well, but I thought that going inside the consumer unit to do wiring was deemed beyond the DIY skill set and you had to get an electrician to do it. However... I'm sure I read here somewhere that if an electrician has to do ANY work on a consumer unit, and that consumer unit was made of plastic, the whole unit has to be replaced by a metal one. So a £100 job to add a new 16Amp socket could end up as £500 job to replace the consumer unit. Never ending is it... Charlie
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Andy, Back in the 1970s I was an electrician for a while. In those days all you needed to rewire a house was common sense and no one bothered if you had any sort of qualifications. The problem you face today is that I don't think you are "Allowed" to wire into a consumer unit unless you have the relevant qualifications. As for using red and black wire you may well find yourself facing 10 years in Wormwood Scrubs for using such cable. My personal view is that none of this really matters, but the problem comes if ever you have a fire or any sort of accident where an insurance comp
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How to…. Drain and flush hydraulic brake system
Charlie D replied to BlueTR3A-5EKT's topic in General TR Technical
Thinking about it logically, if you are going to replace all the seals it means that you will have to take out all the pistons in the MC, slave cylinders and calipers. Easy enough to decontaminate them while they are on the bench. Then all that is left are the pipes and cylinder bodies. Compressed air, and block up the cylinders one at a time until each one is free of fluid. Then maybe blow through some liquid to finish off the cleaning process. Maybe meths. My dad used to run a pub when I was a kid. (Old school stuff with "Beer engines". ) He used to put a small plug -
As I mentioned in this thread last year I reballanced my wheels and it made a difference, but still not 100% vibration free. I spotted a "rebuilt" propshaft on eBay for £60 so decided to buy it and give it a try. Similar to what Ian has just said, the last of my vibration issues disappeared. So in my case I think it was a combination of wheel balance AND prop balance. It's amazing how much more fun/relaxing the car is once you get rid of vibration.
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I did wonder about that myself when I was told I had to repeat the phrase when I initially set up the security. I understand that voices can be copied by using AI, but I think that with a specific phrase it's not just the "Sound" that is being checked, it's the spacing (timing) between the words as well. I would guess that it is quite easy to recreate the sound of the individual words, but not so easy to exactly (to the microsecond) recreate the time it takes to say each word (and the gaps between the words) in a specific sentence. This is especially so if, when you are initially asked t
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Glad to be of service. If you drop this in the eBay search box ("tr2","tr3","tr3a","tr4","tr4a", "tr5", "tr6") -yamaha and specify "Vehicle parts & accessories" in the categories box you can find just about all the TR stuff on eBay all in one go. Also specify "Used" to narrow things down otherwise you get lots of references to moderns that have those letters somewhere in the description. (The -yamaha bit is to exclude any Yamaha items that might fit the search. There are some Yamaha bits that are called TR something of other.)
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Hello All, I've got no connection with this, but as I know these don't come up often I thought I'd mention what I just spotted on eBay in case anyone is interested. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205141698800 It seems to include ALL the bits needed. Charlie
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Here are some simple mods you could try. https://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr4-tr4a-prototypes.html Charlie.
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I got fed up with the bands breaking and haven't used them for a while but I have a feeling that I found Silverline better than most. A lot of people advertise bands as Silverline but they don't come in a Silverline box, just loose. The ones I had came in genuine(?) boxes. Maybe worth getting a box of 5 and seeing how they go. I don't know how people feel about the quality of Silverline products in general, but I have a Silverline mini tool (Dremel type thing) at a fraction of the price of a Dremel and it has been excellent over the past 10 years of use. Charlie.
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I've always reckoned that the person who decided the diameter of tyres must have been British and the person who decided the width of tyres must have been European. Why else would you have a diameter of 15 inches and a width of 165mm ?
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Retronics wiper delay kit for DR3 wiper motor
Charlie D replied to qkingston's topic in TR4/4A Forum
I guess they are now classed as a "Collectors item" going by the price. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vellemen-Windscreen-Wiper-Control-Kit-/124824476841 Charlie. -
Voltage stabiliser + or - identification
Charlie D replied to keith1948's topic in General TR Technical
There is one for sale on eBay with that number , says it's for a TR4A , so I guess its Neg earth. However the pic of it looks like its electro mechanical. Maybe yours is the later version. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR4A-Voltage-Stabilizer-Smiths-Gauge-TR4-Spitfire-GT6-Herald-BR1300-01A-/276680386373 There should be no problem to bench test it. Charlie -
There are a lot more things that you can do with those LEDs than just dim them. Each one consists of three individual LEDs and a controller. You can set each of the three colours to any one of 256 brightness levels, thus being able to create millions of different colours. A strip of 150 LEDs and an Arduino Nano (to control them) will cost about £20. The whole lot just need one wire to connect them to the Arduino and a +5V supply and ground. Each LED is daisy-chained to the next and the position that the LED is in the strip is the reference number you use in the software to switch that
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Even if you did decide to go ahead and change the colour I have a feeling that it could be one of those things that seemed a good idea at the time but ends up with the feeling "I wish I had never started this..." (I have had many such projects.) You may end up with a patchy, un-even finish. You would probably need to do it with the roof on the car, and then you risk getting dye in places where you would not want it and would never be able to get rid of it. I'd leave well alone, if I were you. Charlie.