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Charlie D

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    Hereford (UK)

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  1. I mentioned that I was going to record the “Gushing” sound that my engine makes (made…) on start-up. I’ve started it about 10 times since (with a few days between each one) and the sound is no longer there, yet after the initial rebuild it was there every time. I have not put more oil in or done anything different. It’s a mystery ! Charlie.
  2. I think what Bob says will be the only way to do it. DO make sure you wear eye protection and a GOOD face mask. You may need to do it with a constant flow of water over the cutting area to keep things cool. I would guess even a small amount of local heat could cause a crack to run out from where you are cutting it . If that does happen, it’s bound to be on the very last cut, when all the rest have worked perfectly. Charlie.
  3. +1 for what RobH said. Just search ebay for “12 volt test lamp”. I’ve had one of the pencil-like metal bodied ones for 20 years. A blunt cap at the end can be unscrewed to reveal a sharp point. I guess it can help identify 99% of electrical problems like the one you have. Charlie.
  4. As mentioned previously, I have a similar noise, so I can give a couple of answers to what some have suggested. Z320 said: “Could the fan be slightly loose on the pulley?” I have an electric fan, and removed the mechanical fan, so no, not in my case. NTC said: ” You waste your time, engine knock from cold start = only one thing oil starvation.” The sound (to me) is not “Engine knock”, it is a “Gulping sound without engine knock”. But maybe there is another sound that I’m missing, and the “Gulping sound” is just a Red Herring. (How a Red Herring has got into my sump is a bit of a mystery though…) I shall be starting my engine again in a few days time, so will try to record the sound. Charlie.
  5. Hamish, A hard top and interior lights ??? What next, air conditioning? To answer your questions, I see no problem with earthing the lights locally to the hardtop, but for reliability I’d put an earth from the hard top, via a 3 pin plug, to some reliable earth on the car body. Yes, in theory there should be an earth from the hardtop to the body via all the fixing screws, but because they will be disturbed each time the hard top is taken off and on, I’d go for the belt and bracers approach. It will do no harm. Is the fuse/wiring man (“Person“) enough for two extra lights off the sidelight circuit? I would guess so, but if you go for LED lights then the extra consumption is negligible. Just realised that Ian beat me to it. Charlie.
  6. Here is an idea. (Yes, please tell me it’s a load of bowlex if you think so, because it is a bit way out…) When the engine is cold and not been used for a while, ALL the oil will have drained into the sump. When the pump starts up, oil is dispersed all around the engine. Being cold it does not flow so well, so it takes a while to make it back to the sump. Could it be that the oil level in the sump goes down just below the inlet pipe, and so sucks air in as well (Although I have said the oil pressure remains constant…). Once the oil is hot it drops back into the sump faster and so does not cause starvation. (I suppose you could run the engine for five seconds, switch off, and check the dip stick to see the state of affairs.) What did Sherlock Holmes say? “When you have eliminated the impossible, whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth” Charlie.
  7. My engine had new pistons and liners, so I assume it would not be piston slap. To be honest it was the “Gurgling” sound that struck me the most. It was not in time to anything like engine revs. Like sucking up a liquid into a pump, and every so often the level of the liquid would go down so air would be sucked in, and then it would be sucking liquid again. It hinted (to me) something to do with the oil pump pickup, but the pressure remained rock steady, and the dipstick showed ¾ full. Stan, do you hear more of a "Gurgling" or more of a "Taping"? Charlie.
  8. Stan, This is interesting to me too. I rebuilt my engine about 6 months ago and have only run it on a few occasions for about 5 minutes to check for leaks and suchlike. I got EXACTLY the same noise when I ran it. I was going to ask about it but felt it was a bit difficult to describe. The recording does the trick. I was really downhearted because, having just done the rebuild, I was certain it was something I had done wrong. (Especially as I had already pulled it apart TWICE due to the fact I'd put some of the piston rings in upside down...) To me it sounded like a liquid bubbling through pipes, with a mixture of air, somewhere towards the back of the engine, (near the fuel pump), but like Roger says, it has a tapping metallic sheet sound as well. I’ll be getting the car on the road soon, so it would be nice to find out exactly what the noise is, although now that I hear other people with the same problem I feel bit better. Charlie. (Car is a '59 3A)
  9. Bill, Not sure if the reasons for going from black and white to reflective were for safety reasons. I think it was more to do with the fact that they stood out better on speed camera pictures. Charlie. (Black plates on a “P” reg TR3A)
  10. I’ve got a 4 box in my 3a and I found that it’s slightly longer than the 3/3a box. (Either that or my engine is too far back, or my body is too far forward.) What has happened is that the speedo cable comes out at the very rear end of the cutout in the gearbox cover. Not a major problem, but worth mentioning. (No right angle drive by the way. Cable routed as per the excellent pictures provided by Bob.) Charlie
  11. If you don’t like your sidewall pattern, just attack it with an angle grinder: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JnwevOfIUqA Or turn them into Goodyears: https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/lovebugfans/got-goodyear-no-then-make-some-t9360.html Do people REALLY do this? Charlie.
  12. Brian, Don’t know how well you know these engines, (and apologies if I’m telling you something you already know). When you take the head off don’t forget to clamp down the cylinder liners (just look it up on this site, lots of advice on how to do it.) otherwise a worn cam will be the least of your problems! Charlie.
  13. In 1969 I had a brand new Hillman Imp as a company car. I proudly took it out to show my mates who had gone to a pub near Aston Cantlow (Stratford Upon Avon area). It had been raining heavily and I came to a low bridge and there was flooding just up to the level of the footpath. I guessed there was about 3 or 4 inches of water there, so I slowed down and carried on. The steering got strangely light. And then I noticed water coming through the door seals and the car began to sink… Then the engine died… What had happened was that the footpath had been raised up about 2 feet above road level (to allow pedestrians to pass in the event of a flood)and I’d foolishly assumed that it was the same level as the road. The Hillman, being rear engined, floated at the front, giving the impression that all was well. When the water level reached the top of the gear lever I was able to open the door and escape. Almost knee deep in water… I’d come straight from work and had an almost new suit on… I walked the last half mile to the pub to ask my mates for help (They insisted in finishing their drinks first!) and eventually towed the car out. Turned the starter and water poured out the exhaust. As Tim says: “always check the depth of large puddles before you drive into them” Charlie.
  14. The rear over rider brackets have a long bolt that actually goes through a tube in the body. In order to get that bolt in the over riders need to be removed, so I guess they would need to go on after the body was fitted But I may be wrong… Charlie.
  15. Tom, Ahh… A long time ago (40 years?) I took the clips off and blocked one end of the matrix with my finger and put a mains pressure hose pipe in the other to test for leaks. There were no leaks But the matrix expanded like a concertina! It never did go back together properly. You only do it once… Charlie
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