Charlie D

+1 for what Rob has just said. I've had this happen on a couple of cars over the years. However it may not lead to a complete re-wire. Cut back (unwind) the binding of the loom from where you see the damage and keep following it until you get to the other end. Almost certain that the adjacent wires (not actually carrying any current that caused the problem) will have also melted. But you will eventually find places where no damage has occurred. You should be able to cut out the damaged wires and replace (using the correct sized wire.) It's a fiddly process, involving

Marley says: “8 out of 10 cat owners prefer Fernox Alphi-11.” (And Marley knows what he is talking about. He's not as daft as he looks.)

But make sure your bolts are not so long that they rub on the propshaft when you go over a bump. I learnt the hard way. Charlie

Oliver, My home made sidescreens don’t have a metal frame inside the lower part so I had to work out a way to keep the very rear of that part attached to the car body (the rest of it attaches to the door with LTD clips.) I used powerful small round magnets (100s on eBay) bolted through the material using M3 countersunk screws with a washer and dome nut on the outside. (Just to look nice.) The ideal may well work for your sound deadening sheets. You would need one magnet about every 9 inches around the edges and a few in the middle (to stop it flopping down.) I think you may

I have found that damp can get in between the rim and the case and "Weld" the two together with rust. Also the swelling the rust causes the two bits stick tight together. I have been told to never try to release the two by bending open the bent bits of the rim as it will never seal tight enough again.

Roger, Has John ever sent you a message via his BT eMail (ie not through a PM) ? It may be that only people in his BT address book are getting the mails. It used to be standard stuff to steal addresses so that malware could be spread to other computers. Charlie.

Jochem ----- URGENT !!! Remove your attachment as it gives away both your and John's eMail address.

I’d be surprised if any glue would stick well to the block in order to keep the pipe in. It would be almost impossible to get the block 100% oil free to make it work. Because the pipe is quite long you can get quite a bit of leverage in a circular movement and with slight pulling outwards from the block. Don’t give up. It WILL come out. That's why the thing is bolted to the sump.

Many years ago I purchased a job lot of TR bits including a 3A radiator. It looked brand new, but it could have just been rebuilt. It had the triangular reinforcement bracket between the filler neck and the main body that has been mentioned somewhere here before, as a way to stop the neck joint from cracking. Mine had a new “Cov Rad” label fixed to it so I guess the reinforcement plate was standard for radiators that came from the company. Well worth asking for one to be added if you need a radiator re-building. Charlie.

I suppose it does offer a quick escape from the car. This was is several papers a couple of days ago. Apparently the driver only suffered minor injuries.

If keyless cars are so easy to steal doesn’t it mean that the system is “Not fit for purpose” and the manufacturers should be held responsible for any thefts that happen because of the system? The shortcomings of the system have been known about for several years, yet the manufacturers still build cars with it. Or doesn't the law work like that. Charlie

We have a very long hedge down the side of our garden and every couple of weeks we used to get “Tree surgeons” knocking on the door offering to trim it. They occasionally became quite aggressive when I said I did it myself. (They also seemed to always have a good look around the front of the property, no doubt looking for something to pinch.) Since we had a Ring Doorbell fitted it has almost totally stopped. I sometimes see them walking through the front gate, noticing the doorbell, and leaving immediately. The Ring Doorbell announces when someone approaches the front door and g

A rough test would be to connect a 1.5v battery across the speaker terminals. (Just a quick on/off with the battery) You should get a "Click". You could also put a resistance meter across the terminals. Check all 4. They should all read the same value. Charlie.

+1 There is quite a bit of space there. Be aware though that Marco might be along soon to say you don't need one . Charlie

Just tried it on XP and it does run, but a bit clunkey. Charlie.

Hello John, Try: http://www.dvandrews.co.uk/ The article (It's actually a program) is 9 items down. Charlie.

Don’t throw away your old bodyshell. Turn it into a bath. https://littleplaceinthecountry.com/the-horse-hut/