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Adam Blackaby

TR Register Members
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    31
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About Adam Blackaby

  • Birthday 11/02/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Charente, France
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4, 1964,
    TR3A, 1960

Recent Profile Visitors

441 profile views
  1. Its Sunday afternoon, peeing with rain, so can play with the TR4, catching up with a myriad of small and large tasks. Does anyone have any suggestions as to where to mount a pair of Retro-Sound Ultra thin speakers? The radio etc were 2020 Xmas present to Liz (owner of said car) but, for many reasons, not actually fitted yet! I really don't want to use the easiest position, on rear bulkhead trim panel, as seats will be in the way, as will the hood as whilst the car is a TR4, the previous owner modified the hood to 4A spec. I know that you won't really hear the radio when driving at sp
  2. Hi Roger, Thanks for yours, yes I'm using the auto-wire diagram. All wires going to correct spades on relay. All I can think is that somewhere there's an earth connection (not thru body of relay as its hanging loose) otherwise why is the solenoid engaging immediately with car in neural and ignition switched off?
  3. Hi Guys, it's Sunday afternoon and yet again another frustrating session in the footwell!! A side issues whilst trying to sort out the overdrive, the relay ceased to work. New warranty replacement speedily despatched by Russ @ Moss with correct paperwork to satisfy the French customs, so no duty payable. Prior to fitting new relay all the wiring was checked, permanent feed from ammeter, ignition controlled feed, earth via column switch, feed to operating solenoid, all working as per spec, all cables good. (All the looms are new as this is a recent conversion to overdrive)
  4. Hi Stuart, Thanks for yours, the car is LHD so my legs aren't in the way!!
  5. Whilst trying again to sort out ongoing o/d problems (thats a separate issue and I'm talking to 'the man' ie PSC on this) I had to yet again remove the support bracket that goes between floor and fascia. Decided this time that it would be more manoeuvrable if I disconnected the heater control cables. Can anyone explain why they cross over? The cable that activates the air distribution flap on the l/h side of the heater is on the right on the bracket, that operating the valve on the r/h side of the engine is on the left. The cables are contorted and having solid inners don't move tha
  6. Thanks Guy's. As expected, you had the answers. I'll see how it goes on the new plugs and revert to 5HS's if needed. I'm sure they they were fitted for a reason, previous owner had the car maintained by Glen at Protek.
  7. Why is Sunday afternoon the time for playing with the TR? Latest issue, decided today to undertake plugs, leads and coil change. As per Moss catalogue I had a set of NGK BP6HS plugs to hand. But, taking old ones out I discovered that they were 5HS versions. Looked on the web but I couldn't find any clear explanation of difference. (The old spare plugs in the boot were 6HS's) Unfortunately its p.....ng with rain so I can't take the car out for a test but it starts and revs fine with the new plugs in. Is there any difference between the two? Thanks in advance
  8. Hi Guys, Thanks for the suggestions. As always, my ex-colleague Peter W had the answer at his finger tips. Rotate the top cover of the motor thru 180 degrees and the spindles operate in the required direction and self park where wanted. What this man doesn't know about TR's eludes me!!! Thanks Peter
  9. Hi Guys, I'm doing something stupid here, but can't figure out what The wipers on our TR4, LHD, started going very slowly. Took the motor and rack out and after several liberal doses of WD40 managed to free up the wheelboxes. There is a cranked arm, on the passenger side, straight on the drivers side As a precautionary measure I've fitted a recon motor to the car All seemed fine, got the rack back in and the wheelboxes moved fine, refitted the motor and all was still good. Then noted that the spindles were rotating in a clockwise direction, when stopped, they went anti
  10. Hi From memory, try hitting the arm on both sides of the taper link at the same time. Sometimes this is enough to break the connection. Heat, or wd40 beforehand might help.
  11. Having been let down by the fuel system yet again (3rd time in 3 months) I'm looking at the possibility of converting to electric pump, regulator and inertia switch. Has anyone done this recently and can advise on location of the various components, plumbing of fuel lines etc. Also, any views on choosing a solid state pump or a Facet unit? Car is LHD if that makes a difference. Living in France I cant just 'pop down' to a local Motor factor to purchase bits of fuel hose etc. Any advice much appreciated. Thanks Adam
  12. I am finally finishing off the installation of an overdrive g'box to Liz's TR4. Its only been over 18 months in the planning!! Can anyone advise as to the positioning of the switch operating relay, the workshop manual just casually says 'mount under dash facsia' If it makes any difference, car is LHD. Many thanks in advance for any guidance. Adam
  13. Thanks RobH. I've just ventured into the 'Dark side' and purchased an MGA. At least I'm not alone in this travesty, one of our previous chairmen had one for many years, albeit I recall a Twin Cam Coupe. Guess what, switch the ignition on and the fuel gauge zooms over to full. Did look at the wsm for the car but unlike the TR equiv which explains how to check for faults in the sender unit, that published by BMC for the MGA doesn't even acknowledge the presence of fuel gauge or sender unit. Your link to MGAGuru was most timely We TR'ists dont know how lucky we are!
  14. Thanks Rob & Peter, What, if anything retains the short shaft on the horn push to the stator tube? Is it just an interference fit. Cant see anything in the catalogue showing a more positive connection I have used my favourite tool, no not a Birmingham screwdriver, but WD40, liberally around the horn push and the retaining plate in case its not moving freely. I will have another go tomorrow to see is the movement is better. I'm fairly certain that the stator tube is locked solid in the steering box . But I will have another look. Fortunately, courtesy of Russ at Mo
  15. Forgive the stupidity, I should know the answer but I've forgotten. I'm having intermittent problems with the horn, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. I suspect an issue with the earthing of the center push. Should it remain stationary when the wheel turns or move with the steering wheel? I'm sure one of you, not least my old colleague PAW, will know the answer and chastise me for my stupidity!! Best Adam
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