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john minchin

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About john minchin

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  1. Thanks gents, the 'O' ring idea is excellent I have found a supplier on ebay already. I'm get my vernier on the gauge and order accordingly. Although the glass domes may need a more conventional approach as indicated by Roger.
  2. I am in the process of cleaning up the 2" gauges for my sidescreen car. When I take them apart there appears to be perished rubber seal between the bezel and the glass plus the one which goes between gauge and dash. Also I am missing a couple of domed glasses. I have being on the internet for some time now to no avail. Please could someone identify where I could get these 2 seals for each gauge + a couple of domes. The difficult bit being the glass to bezel seals. Thanks for your help.
  3. Bob, That is great thank you. Basically behind the battery box for the cross car one. It soon turns into a confusing array once the tacho, temp gauge etc get involved. Thanks for the prompt response, no excuses for hanging around now. John
  4. Hello, I am in the process of rebuilding my TR3a, now a right hand drive. I have a new wiring loom from a trusted supplier so I am sure its is almost mm perfect. I am trying to get the wiring loom fitted, most of the routing is self explanatory however under the dash / bulkhead area is rather a mystery. So relative to the underside of the battery box, heater and the like where does it go ? The sections I am thinking about is the main bit which crosses from the pedal box area to the passenger side, the dip switch extension which appears very long and the dash/gauge extension itself. There are various tags I see under there but it does not make any sense. Pictures would be ideal but descriptions are also good. Thanks in anticipation. John
  5. Food for thought there. Judging by the responses a about 2" or more higher at the front and some of Revingtons rears. Now for the last question about the hybrid car. The bulkhead / gearbox is the same as the 4 cylinder as it is dictated by the gearbox position which is unchanged. The front is where the fun starts, if my memory serves correctly you need to create some engine mounts on the rear of the spring turrets, I used a scrap TR6 chassis for the brackets and measurements. Then the TR6 steering rack needs locating in the TR6 location along with the radiator, once again the TR6 chassis was invaluable. Also TR6 steering arms and lower steering column. I also grafted in a TR6 dished offside inner wing as you never know what I may do with the manifolds/supercharging/ injection. I think the car is excellent as it combines the purity of the original TR4 shape with the sound of the 6 cylinder. See the picture below if I can post it. Do you want any more detail please ask.
  6. I have a TR4 and the ride height is low at the front and high at the back. It is further complicated by the fact it is a deep dish rear spring TR4 with a TR6 engine fitted. It had new deep dish springs fitted in 2002 and since then has done 8500 miles so they have settled as much as they are going to. Following advice I intend to fit standard shallow dish rear springs to sort the back out. For the front I have figured out the relationship between spacer thickness and affect on the suspension height ( following repeated trials several years ago). I have some spacers to turn to the desired thickness. The question I have is What is a good height from the centre of the wheel arch to the top of the tyre tread ? Mine is currently 2cm/1" which translates into about 5cm/2" chassis to ground clearance which I consider to be too low. Concerning the back axle has anyone got a set of axle U bolts + the plates which go under the spring and have the shock absorber bolt holes in. These can either be TR2/3 or 4 items as I think they are the same. Regards, John
  7. Stevson Motors looks like the way forward, thank you for you advice. I'll get them off the car and take them down to see what they think. I am also tempted by the fork oil. If it worked for you then the worst that can happen is the seals leak. Thanks, John
  8. I have a TR4 which suffers from vibrations at various speeds. Large improvements have been gained from tightening the front shock absorber top bushes, carefully routing the exhaust through the chassis and taking excess material out of the hub caps which was put in during the rechroming. The wheels are very recently rebalanced. The rear shockers may not be controlling the back axle enough as although both sides are roughly similar in stiffness I can move them by hand with reasonable ease. I am only after standard perfomancestuff. They do not show any signs of leakage. So 2 questions really. 1. Can I test them by hanging a weight on them and timing how long to complete to the stroke ? If so how much weight and time ? 2. Supposing they are sub standard can I change the oil to stiffen them ? If so what and where can I get it ? John
  9. The test drive showed an improvement, it still shakes a little but is much reduced. To confirm I did 2 things, tightened the top bush of a front damper and also removed a hubcap from the back which had a 'fair bit' of material added by the chrome platers when they improved the surface to enable a successful plating operation. Thank you all for your ideas. John
  10. I have checked all the shockers and the fronts were very stiff and the rears quite easy to move but the same side to side, these rears lever arms were never very stiff I understand. The only potential I found was the rubber bush at the top of one of the fronts was not compressed dispite the nut being tight to the stop. I inserted a thick washer to tighten it all up. Tomorrow night I will hopefully fit in a test drive and try the out of gear / overdrive variances to see if the engine has any effect. (after its rebuild and balancing I should hope not !) Thank you for the advice, the prop shaft wear is a red herring I think as it was the original from a car which was 40 years old and did not have its original engine and gearbox indicating a hard life. I'll tell you the result of my test drive, John
  11. Thanks for the ideas. To clear a few things up and possibly of interest to others thinking of the mod to their cars, fitting the TR6 engine to a TR4 keeps the gearbox in exactly the same place, the engine extends futher forwards requiring the TR6 rack, rack mounts and lower column to be fitted. In answer to the questions: the TR6 engine and 'box is fitted complete with larger thickness flange but no strap or weights, the prop length is standard as the gearbox is in the correct position, I think that the original prop was wrecked when I put it back on during my restoration, I changed the UJ's but ignored the spline. I spent most of the weekend getting the exhaust to pass through the chassis without touching and raising the gearbox 3mm so it is not resting on the removeable cross member. So I will be checking out the dampers, the front ones were new 3000 miles ago, the rears are recon standard lever arms. Any more ideas ?
  12. I have a TR4 which is a deep dish spring rear axle type and has standard steel rear wheels and a set of Verdestien tyres. Ever since it was restored by myself approx 5 years ago it has suffered from vibration / resonance at various motorway speeds. Since then I replaced the propshaft which made a massive difference. The wheels are balanced only yesterday. The car still suffers from reasonances and is only smooth at an indicated 58mph and another above that. I am not expected new car standards but a moderately easy drive like my sidescreen TR. Any ideas as to what it could be causing the vibrations and / or how to test various bits ?
  13. My dad had a TR4 in the 60's and 70's and it broke its crankshaft. He tells me with evident pleasure how he brought a tractor crank and fitted it. It was a daily driver back then and it seemed to work OK. A source of 20 or so crankshafts even with the different seal system on the back should be taken advantage of in my opinion. What is there to lose ? Regards, John
  14. I tried a thinner oil last year, the leak rates were much worse. So I am back to 20/50, Halfords classic. John
  15. I have had a bad rattle on my 4 cylinder, it was the pulley extension - tighten the long bolt. The other time was a piston with the crown cracking off. Good luck.
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