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barkerwilliams last won the day on October 11

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About barkerwilliams

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    TR6 PI, Stag, Thoroughbred Race Horse, 2 x John Deere tractors.

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  1. barkerwilliams


    Mike, The usual forum advice in some sort of order for the Pi is Fit a relay to the fuel pump circuit to remove load from ignition switch and to improve current and voltage to fuel pump. Fit heavy duty new wiring to fuel pump and a new earth wire to pump to improve available voltage / current to fuel pump. Get the battery with the largest CCA that you can fit into the battery tray (072 from memory CCA 550 ) Here is a Bosch 044 pump spec which shows the rise in amperage needed as voltage reduces. http://www.bosch-motorsport.de/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data sheet_67896971_Fuel_Pump_FP_200.pdf Injectors need about 50-55psi to open and then as much pressure as possible (105'ish) to atomise the fuel. A cold start the injector squirts a slug of fuel into a cold manifold where it trickles down into a cranking cylinder when the engine is only rotating at 200rpm not exactly drawing in a blast of air to evaporate the fuel. If it does not atomise then when the spark occurs nothing happens as the mixture is not explosive. When the engine is running and hot the fuel hits a warm inlet manifold and is drawn with a powerful suck of air into an engine running at 500 to 4,000 rpm the turbulence of air and the heat ensures an explosive mix. So the battery CCA and a good battery ensures the highest possible cranking speed to get the best possible drawing in of air, the better the battery the higher the voltage at the pump and the higher pressure the fuel pump can deliver. Typically a battery drops to 9'ish volts whilst cranking, with a few losses in poor wiring to the fuel pump it might only be getting 8'ish volts. The engine cold starting is never wonderful. Usually the advice is to turn the ignition on and turn off anything such as cabin fan, wipers lights etc. and leave running for 30 seconds to allow the plumbing to pressurise as much as possible. Then crank the engine to get some fuel flowing into the cylinders. Then a short crank seems to kick off the engine a really long cranking on my car seems to do little good, presumably a long cranking drops the voltage and a suitable explosive mixture never happens. Pi's will never start from cold like a modern car it is a security feature to deter the would-be car thief!! A relay, wiring probably costs £15 and is easily fitted in a couple of hours, and a new battery £100'ish (Tanya are good suppliers) but these cannot overcome dribbling or sticking injectors. Once running the more often you drive the car the better it starts. Alan
  2. barkerwilliams


    I have found best injector diagnostic with my Pi car is to … With a cold engine (stood overnight). Take a piece of old cardboard box a couple of feet long and 6 or more inches wide place along the air intake plenum and remove and place all the injectors along the cardboard. Remove live wire from coil so there will be no sparks. Turn the ignition on and wait. perhaps two minutes. Don't crank. Can you hear the pressure regulator operating? Even small dribbles from injectors will show on the cardboard. I always seem to have one random injector dribble and even if replaced the new item still dribbles and I assumed that the metering unit is aligned with a pathway through the MU. More than one injector dribbling then they need attending to. Then crank the engine for perhaps twenty seconds. Do all injectors blast a fuel mist - easy to see and also spot any dry injectors? Leave ignition i.e. fuel pump on and gently lift injector tips on any dry injectors. Do they blast a mist of fuel or just vent trapped air? By now all six injectors will have sprayed some fuel and vented any trapped air so crank the engine again - do all six spray mist? If they do turn ignition off and refit all six back into their correct!! inlet manifold - don't go by any stamped number follow through to the correct metering unit port!! Reconnect coil and start engine does it fire within a few seconds? When cold some injectors seem to stick closed and need a high pressure to break them open but are then OK. Highest pressure is not available until the engine is started and the battery voltage starts to rise and the pump is able to work correctly. On my car this results in starting on four of five before they join in within a few seconds. After a few days driving sticky injectors seem to improve presumably with use. At some point get under the car with a torch and the ignition coil disconnected and the fuel pump running and look up at the metering unit past the oil filter and then a little more forward to see if you can see any drips of fuel. From either the injector hose unions or between the metering unit / distributor flange. When the car is running small leaks evaporate away before they hit the ground before they are apparent. Fuel pressure is critical whilst when the battery voltage is low on a cold start whilst cranking and drips and dribbles do not assist in maintaining enough pressure to pop the injector open and create a really good mist of petrol that is needed to fire without the assistance of the heat from an inlet manifold and cylinder. It is an easy task to set engine to TDC and remove Number 6 injector union and check metering unit timing if you suspect it is out. Alan
  3. John, A "Glowing" exhaust manifld says spark retarded. Or were you using the word, for effect? Mine glows dark red. AFR o2 wideband sensor / meter shows mixture at about 13.5, richer - 8'ish during acceleration. Manifold Phoenix SS. Engine PI runs really well. Alan Harrie, Just seen the request for photo on Stag water pump. Difficult to get a camera in there. When I fitted mine I removed the alternator to top left of engine and the new EWP fits lower right where alternator was. The pump could then move / vibrate forward and catch the power steering belt / pulley so I fitted the 90' btacket from the old alternator bracket - it has arms about 100mm long to the original alternator mounting bolt but had the lower arm vertical'ish which just misses the EWP but would hold it away from moving parts if the EWP tries to move forward. It could have been made for the job. Incidentally I used E J Wards kit which has all the parts you need and fits easily to Stag (no connection) Alan
  4. Harrie, I have an EWP in my Stag and works very well but I would have to think hard about one in my TR6. The TR6 does not have a mechanical fan just an electric. The Stag engine warms slowly and even a bit of spirited driving seems to take a while to get the engine really hot. The TR6 on the other hand gets to temperature very quickly and even a short burst on the throttle will get the exhaust manifold glowing and presumably the internals very hot very quickly. The EWP is not throttle / rpm related only basing its pumping speed from the coolant sensor in the top hose, there will inevitably be a time lag between a rising rpm and coolant temperature at the sensor when the pump is on a reduced duty cycle. A mechanical water pump is of course rpm related and reacts instantly to increasing rpm though it will not of course have an ideal match between heat produced at a given rpm and the water flow rate. From my limited experience with the pump I installed in my Stag I would never be sure that my TR6 engine would not have hot spots due to fitting a EWP and its designed pumping lag. Why does my TR6 engine get so hot? Perhaps I have a few extras that work the engine a little harder particularly the right foot, the Stag is much more of a gentleman's cruiser. I am perfectly happy with the original pump in my TR6 it works well, is cheap and easy to replace but seems very, very reliable and efficient. In my Stag the original pump was badly sited difficult to replace but the EWP came at a fairly expensive price but replacement was a no-brainer. By the way the EWP is mounted in the bottom hose on the Stag and does not mount onto any hardware, just "dangles" although fairly rigid. Alan
  5. Is there such a thing as a high pressure in-tank pump? I have only seen low pressure pumps for carbs, but I have never researched other pumps as my Bosch works well (chassis mounted). Alan
  6. Compressed air line, gradually open the pressure regulator found on most compressors. Injectors set to about 50-55 psi. If you point the injector at a bucket of water you can see by the pattern on the water surface if the injector is opening evenly or one-sided. As the pressure is reduced it is really important that the injectors shut off 100% - again pointing the injector at a bucket of water will show if injector has fully closed. Don't blast water about just hold away from surface.. I would not recommend attempting to adjust but if you feel you have a sticky injector give them a quick test before committing to send off to a specialist. Alan
  7. I agree with Andy 125 (assuming your pressure gauge is correct) requires the pump to work much harder drawing more current and thus running hotter. As heat in the pump is a problem and needs to use the fuel in the tank as a cooling reservoir more heat cannot be good. As the system is designed to run at 10% lower pressure than you are using it will not bring any benefit, only the potential for grief and expense. Strange though if a pressure relief valve "moves" its adjustment and is probably more likely to be stuck closed and the pump will be running at its maximum. Alan
  8. Better to have loved tried and lost than never to have loved tried at all. Whatever the result you will be coming out of the experience a better, more skilled man than you went in. You will also know your car and the components and functions and so much better equipped to diagnose any future problems. If you had simply paid to have it done how much poorer you would have been in both meanings of the word. If it was easy we would all be doing it. Alan
  9. barkerwilliams


    Can I give you a method rather than a value? Start with a base value of perhaps £17,000, then start deducting repair parts and labour costs. The major price of any car is the state of the metal work, if yours is as solid as you say then leave value as is. A genuine 100% rust free car is a rare beast, a badly rusted car can end up at zero value surprisingly quickly. Deduct £600 for new seats. Deduct £2,000 for gearbox and overdrive overhaul. Deduct £700 for a replacement hood. etc, etc working down though your list of issues then you end up with a reasonable value. What price you can sell for depends on what time of year and how soon you need the car gone. Ensure your advert details all the problems, then any potential buyer cannot argue that an area needs addressing which reduces his offer (but they will try) and ensure you have built a margin of perhaps a couple of thousand to haggle. Put the hood up now and leave it up, a few months under tension will ease its fitting as the fabric stretches and settles. When you come to sell gloss the tyres, polish the car and chrome work and remove all odd junk (Easy start, oil thickeners, no-smoke snake oil etc.) from the garage to reinforce your status as caring careful ownership. I have even heard that a tartan blanket folded nicely on the rear seat gives a favourable impression to prospective buyers, you are not just selling a car your selling the lifestyle the car can bring. Alan
  10. £54.85 strewth, I think you need to sell up and move west young man where £30 -£35 is par for the test. But yes worth having at any price. The only objection is that is was compulsory and now it isn't so yippee that's better, or perhaps not. A couple or three serious accidents with non-MOT'd cars and watch public opinion change. Alan
  11. You have not mentioned the fluid leaking from the MC - servo connection. Is that water or brake fluid? If you are not using Dot 5, just "regular" brake fluid then as a priority I would pour lots of warm soapy water down over the servo & inner wing to try and mitigate brake fluid contaminating and stripping the inner wing paintwork. Whatever other issues the brakes may have that leak must be a priority. Fix an obvious fault and other unexplainable issues often miraculously are also cured. If it is leaking fluid that has to be a seal possibly together with the MC cylinder lining. dumb question - the MC will not fit correctly back to the booster / servo; is the brake pedal returning correctly back to its position, is the pedal return spring still fitted and returning the pedal? How far does the actuator rod protrude from the servo? A good source of information:- https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/brakes Alan
  12. Ok try https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-tr5-tr250-and-tr6-1968-1976/carburettor-fuel-injection-and-air-filter/fuel-injection-inlet-manifolds-and-air-filter-tr5-tr6-p-i-to-september-1972.html#18 or is your car https://www.scparts.co.uk/sc_en/british-cars/triumph/triumph-tr5-tr250-and-tr6-1968-1976/carburettor-fuel-injection-and-air-filter/fuel-injection-inlet-manifolds-and-air-filter-tr6-p-i-from-november-1972.html#23 Alan
  13. Have you tried Malcolm? www.prestigeinjection.net He supplies spindles. Alan
  14. I agree with Andy above, hot solenoids get sticky. No cost test. Raise car, take a 12 volt line from battery, (fused if your a purist) Ignition off get under car connect to solenoid, clunk, disconnect and reconnect, clunk, repeat 40 times as it heats the solenoid has a smaller "clunk" with each energisation. Helped me diagnose my J type solenoid problem. - By the way if you need to replace a solenoid Buy a purpose made J type spanner from one of the suppliers, or cut one down and thin the jaws of an old spanner. Swapping is a genuine five minute job with a correct spanner but a real PITA trying and failing when using your regular spanners. Alan
  15. Yes OK tractors and TRs not that similar however using a tractor it is really, really apparent even a couple of degrees off square a UJ has marked velocity changes. A CV joint as the name implies has a constant velocity. One of the drawbacks of the original design is the sliding centre splines lock up with UJ's and release with an unpleasant bang. The Triumph Stag suffers from the same UJ shaft spline lockups but I understand from a supplier that the Stag Owners Club has changed the splined shafts so that lock-ups do not occur. Presumably the original design of the UJ shafts accommodated enough parallelism in the flanges and angle change and torsional load in the sliding splined shafts to work "reasonably" throughout the suspensions designed operating movement, however what years of wear together with lowered suspension and some owners quite extreme camber angles together with increased HP do to the smooth running under load of UJs is a different matter. Returning to the original question from Angus I would suppose a new TR with original spec HP, suspension etc would have very little difference to a CV joint. But wear and suspension changes make a difference and the 20 minute swap out to CV joints is a no-brainer. Fit and forget. Alan
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