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barkerwilliams

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barkerwilliams last won the day on March 24

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About barkerwilliams

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  • Location
    Hereford
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 PI, Stag, Thoroughbred Race Horse, John Deere

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  1. Steve, I had similar issues on a Stag overdrive J type. I rigged a power lead from the battery, fitted a small switch and connected to the solenoid. Engine off by the way. Then when I turned on the switch, loud click as solenoid operated, then I did it again and again and again, presumably heating the solenoid. Then it stopped working. Left it an hour or so and tried again, worked until warm then stuck once more. I had thought it was sticky after a winter layoff and I was flicking it to free up any corrosion with repeated operation, however turned out to get progressively worse as it got warmer. Fitted a new solenoid and it worked instantly and perfectly thereafter. Later I heard this was a fairly common fault. Incidentally unless you have some very thin spanners then buy a solenoid J type spanner from a TR vendor, with a standard spanner perhaps not possible at all. Probably took 15 minutes to change and there is no oil loss when you remove the old one so a very easy job. Alan
  2. Ah but did you check the resistance of the new sender to compare with the old? Or is it just a presumption of innocence M'lord? Alan
  3. Roger, Can you honestly believe that it is possible / practicable to "allow" electric car ownership on a one-for-one basis with current car ownership? Or will car ownership be restricted, by cost perhaps to a few, with public transport for most people? Alan
  4. Jochem, Start with http://www.fwthornton.co.uk Thorntons are a very long established company with massive stocks of old bearings, not just Triumph. Thorntons had Vendervell stock for my Stag, they used to have massive stocks. When I spoke to them last they had stocks of original sized bearings, but the oversized where either short supply or gone. Alan Barker
  5. Electronic rev counters that pick up the pulse from ignition coil are available for less than £20. Five minutes with a couple of lengths of wire and you can park the car sit in the drivers seat and rev the engine and compare the two readings to determine any discrepancy. Alan
  6. . I don't know the TR7 but Jeeps use a three wire switch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/56028807AA-Oil-Pressure-Switch-Car-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-for-Dodge-Jeep-Chrysler/143094700901?hash=item21511bdb65:g:I8kAAOSwzrBawZET Some Cummins Engines use a three wire switch, and I have vague memories of a BMW three wire switch. Hope it helps, Alan
  7. I have a cair-o-port and the car certainly occupies a large percentage of the available volume of the tent. I always have the fans switched on when parking or removing the car, probably not too much in the way of air circulation but it can only help. I find starting and removing the car has a worse smell than parking as the car starts and needs to run for a short while before it is able to be driven out, but that is just rich exhaust fumes and you are heading for fresh air. Yes I know CO does not smell. Thinking about this tragedy the tent is actually filling with fumes as you reverse towards it and it will only get worse as you drive in. I'm going to have to consider how I park the car, perhaps reversing up to a closed tent then stopping the engine, opening the tent door then restarting and driving in quickly. Or maybe one of those very large floor standing fans, probably a good plan at less than £50 Food for thought, Alan
  8. Now that's strange. However Its only effect will be the angle (or lead position) on the distributor cap. My extract below. Alan
  9. In your picture it shows the distributor drive gear with the slots from 12 o'clock to six. The Repair op Manual 12.41.05 shows the slots as being 2 o'clock to 8 at TDC which is what my car is. If the engine it genuinely at TDC then that drive gear being out will only account for the distributor needing to be rotated an additional 45'ish degrees to "normal". The distributor drive should not have been removed with the cylinder head work. Did you remove no. 1 plug and insert a "depth gauge" to check that when the piston is at maximum rise the timing mark points at TDC or just look at the valve movement? Alan
  10. Came across this advert for 1954 Swallow Doretti for auction 609 CRF. https://www.brightwells.com/classic-motoring/leominster-classic-vintage/leominster-classic-vintage-15th-may-2019/leominster-catalogue-15th-may/ No connection Alan
  11. Its only a simple engine, no electronics to get in the way. If you have fuel in the cylinder, compression and a spark (at the right time'ish) it will fire - perhaps badly but it will fire. Ignition timing only needs to be close. You are using new petrol, not some vintage stuff? - A squirt of Easy Start is a good petrol substitute as a diagnostic tool. Alan
  12. First guess distributor 180' out. i.e. engine not at TDC on the compression stroke but at the end of the exhaust stroke. Easy test just move each plug lead around in the distributor cap, maintaining the firing order. If metering unit was 180' out then it would still run. Are the injectors still spraying fuel when engine cranked? With distributor cap off and engine at TDC then brass end of rotor arm is normally between 8 and 9 on a clock face. (pointing at radiator but down a little from horizontal) Alan
  13. Steve, You ask if the gasket fits a certain way around, I would like to answer that question a slightly different way by not answering directly. The more I see of classic cars the more I see parts that do not fit, as in do not fit at all. Parts that are a close approximation but to all practical purposes are rubbish. The number of times I buy a new item then end up refitting the old item as the new one is a worse fit /poorer quality. arrrgh. So now I do not just fit gaskets (or any thing else), I firstly offer the gasket up and check for alignment between the gasket and the metalwork on both faces, it is surprising how often there are discrepancies. So my advice is every time you pick up a gasket - check in every orientation you could fit it, it's a good habit to develop. Don't rely on what a man said on a forum. Alan
  14. Steve, I guess from your post you have an injected Pi. When the butterflies are adjusted it is typical that the engine will stall from lack of air with the large air admittance screw fully in. The engine will be getting air from somewhere to keep running and unless you have fitted a screw in the stops to keep the butterflies open a little then you will have an air leak somewhere. If all was well then there are a number of places that can leak but as you mention a smell I would firstly look at the inlet / exhaust manifold. If that is leaking you would also be getting the exhaust fumes in the engine bay. Did you fit a Payen manifold gasket such as this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-TR6-2-5-Manifold-Gasket-Inlet-Exhaust-72-to-74-CF1-Payen-Quality-New/233164433299?fits=Model%3ATR+6&epid=1843356634&hash=item3649aee793:g:pm0AAOSwkR9ch40H I find my TR6 Pi will tick over on two cylinders with an air leak / bad-adjustment the remaining four cylinders running extremely rich (and smelly). TR6 butterflies are an absolute pain to set correctly and there are several different throttle shafts and adjusters available which all make the task easier than the originals. I am surprised that with the engine running for five minutes the radiator is still cold, mine is rather warm after five minutes. Alan
  15. Colin, If the oil flow is obstructed the pressure will rise and rise it is indicating a problem somewhere. I would not reduce the PRV unless you have reason to believe it is set incorrectly. Reducing the bypass may give you a good reading but will starve bearings of the essential lubrication and cooling they need. Does the oil flow anywhere or is it totally blocked? Easiest first, does it appear on the rocker assembly? Do you have a drawing showing the route the oil takes around the engine, I believe it was in the Haynes manual, which will show places along the oil path you can check for flow. Alan
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