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barkerwilliams last won the day on August 17

barkerwilliams had the most liked content!

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About barkerwilliams

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    TR6 PI, Stag, Thoroughbred Race Horse, 2 x John Deere tractors.

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  1. My sympathies. As Hamish Above yet your own loss adjuster, Photograph everything, including video of outside. Then start making lists (Spreadsheet best) of everything as you remove it and individual photograph.. Get receipts for everything you buy and write on the back what they are for, perhaps even photograph each receipt.as a record. If you are going to use dehumidifiers then read the electric/gas meters oil tank now so you can estimate the costs etc. You cannot have too much information. If you are going to stay elsewhere get written confirmation from insurance company of the effects of the 30 day unoccupied clause in most policies on any future robbery / damage whilst you are away. Alan
  2. After fitting "traditional" rubber blades that only lasted a few months before rotting and breaking up and never actually moved water off the screen when needed even when new I fitted these to my Tex original style wiper arms. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-28-Silicone-Wiper-Refills-Windscreen-Multi-Colours-Fits-most-cars-8mm-wide/360638508096?epid=1664264853&hash=item53f7baec40:m:mjw6pUrZ-CrixE0PQG4F-Pw:rk:1:pf:0 And they work beautifully and have lasted two years so far. Yes they are 28" long so cut to length and keep the waste bit to make a second blade from when the first ones wear out. Scroll down the web page and the retaining clip between blade and arm is pictured. Four blades for £6 what's not to like? I'm sure other silicone refill blades are about. No connection Alan
  3. Once you start on the engine your wallet needs to be bottomless and possibly you will be several months off the road. Why for a few krone worth of oil? If you still have good oil pressure and do not emit clouds of smoke then just relax and hope you are in such good shape when you are as far past your own use-by date. Alan
  4. Riche, My experience with my PI would suggest a minimal approach to help identify a problem. As Nigel above oil leak is unlikely to be related. Leave car for a few days without starting as when you are getting problems, remove injectors but leave plumbed in, disconnect ignition coil supply ( H&S) Have second person crank engine whilst you hold the injectors over a container and watch the injector spray (or not) If spray is good after ten seconds cranking then it will likely be ignition related, refit injectors if good spray. Check with a timing light on each of the plug leads whilst cranking - a flash will show ignition Ok. If Fuel related First connect a battery charger and leave on 24 hours and leave connected. Try and start the car. - Battery looses voltage as it ages, perhaps down a volt or so, whilst cranking even lower voltage and the pump cannot deliver full pressure with a low voltage a connected battery charger helps identify the problem by providing a higher voltage for the pump. No difference with battery charger and still poor starting and no spray from injectors then suspect the lines from metering unit to injectors are draining down and needs lots of cranking to refill and start spraying into the cylinders, if the car was good previously and there has been no work on the system then start the car and then kill the engine, remove the injector securing plates and restart the car then remove each injector in turn about four inches and check they have a good spray. A poor spray (dripping) will not create a fuel vapour in a cold engine that is needed to fire, later the heat of the engine assists fuel vaporisation. Alan
  5. For my TR6 this was not just a simple case of adjustment. Firstly I bought some Ciebe / Valeo headlamp lenses 471930011 from Europarts - often on special offer. Lens design has changed a lot over the years and these provide a concentrated beam with little peripheral scatter (waste) of light. The look and fit well into the car and fit the chrome trims. These recommended to me on other TRR forum threads. I fitted relays to the lights as any voltage loss from an old light switch is not beneficial. My TR6 on the original loom has the lights earthed to a front loom wire which terminated on body panels. I ran an additional heavy earth wire from this loom to the cars central loom (gauges and such) and back to the rear lights / fuel pump and connected into the battery earth braid. As a minimum connect additional earth between battery earth braid to front (Black) earth loom. I had my lights aligned at the garage where I get the car MOT'd. They did not charge (take the rims off first!!) and took less than five minutes. I am using the original bulbs before I did the above mods and the lights are so much better. No increase in bulb wattage just pointing available light where it is needed. I am sure LEDs would be even brighter but I did not need after the above. Alan
  6. Windscreen washer bottle - strewth. Will that be the most expensive, and probably heaviest bottle ever? Alan
  7. John, I'm not complaining, just reporting an observation. I have a Bosch pump and Bosch filter. The filter is about three years old with perhaps 10,000 miles under its belt. The fuel pipework is about ten year old copper. The electrc cabling is two years old and is really rather large, my car has a new earth bus linking all three of Triumphs earth looms in the car directly back to the braided battery earth.I do not believe I have any undue flow restrictions. Today the car had been driven for four hours and one hundred and fifty miles so the fuel in the tank, which had not been refilled, had circulated many times and was rather warm. I presume all fuel brands are a different blend of fractions which boil off at different temperatures and volumes. so the actual temperature may be fuel brand dependant. Refilling the tank dropped the fuel pump temperature to 29'C, after another twenty miles it had risen to 31'C. As the temperature can be read easily whilst driving I will now keep an eye on the temperature and will regard 38'C as the time to seek out a fuel station and add another few gallons to the tank to enlarge the heat sink. The best part of the fuel-pump temperature gauge was being able to sit in the car by the side of the road and watch the temperature dropping to a point (39’) at which I felt able to restart and drive to a fuel station,, knowing that if it got to 42'C I would have time to pull over and park sensibly without just expiring on busy roads. Incidentally, whilst bored and twiddling my thumbs waiting for the fuel to cool I vaguely remembered that the Latent Heat of Evaporation is massive, so I opened the filler cap and yes the temperature appeared to drop far more rapidly than with a sealed tank filler cap. - Perhaps just my wishful thinking. .....and it only cost less than £10 Alan
  8. OK I know this is an old topic but in my post above I refered to a thermometer I had fitted to my fuel pump. Well today since fitting the sensor my PI suffered its first case of fuel starvation / cavitation. The fuel gauge reading between 1/4 & 1/2 full of Shell's finest. Engine cut out with fuel pump thermometer reading 43.3'C. Now I know how hot I can let my fuel get before problems arrive. Alan
  9. As above I would over-rate a fuel pump cable. Electrical cables are rated by the amount of heat they can dissipate, you will note that "thin wall" cable is rated higher than PVC for the same conductor size. As the pump runs continuously, perhaps for hours on end the heat build-up will be considerable. As the cable heats the resistance increases and the voltage drop increases, and the pump draws more current to maintain pressure so more heat is generated. As per Waldi above, for the few pence extra I would buy large. And what goes down the wire has to come back on a Bl**dy good earth, not just a good earth. Alan
  10. Could I suggest that depending on the materials in the carpets a soldering iron can be used to make nice round bolt holes in nylon carpets and as it melts the carpet it provides a sealed hole through the material with no loose edges to fray. Alan
  11. I thoroughly enjoyed this, beautiful car and interesting people. I thought the morphing into the TR7 was a nice dig at the lifting of some of the design concepts. Many thanks for posting, Alan
  12. I too like ratchet spanners but I find the cheaper spanners have few large ratchet teeth and in a limited space they are difficult to use effectively. I like Wera ratchets which have fine ratchet teeth and can operate with limited access. Alan
  13. barkerwilliams


    Bumpers extra
  14. I'm told the best technique is to use an old wire coat hanger opened up and as you remove a gear slide it onto the wire with the correct orientation. If you re-tie the hanger the set can be washed or put to one side awaiting replacement items and cannot get out of sequence. Each gear is correctly placed for reassembly or replacement as you come to rebuild. Stable doors and horses though in this case. Alan
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