PodOne

Hi David If on a stand. Remove all the studs if possible and then replace two with a couple of nuts on the studs turn the engine upside down and let gravity help while you tap around the head which with a bit of luck should come away. If some of the studs are stuck drop some penetrating oil down then over a few days and try again as you don't want to be shearing the studs while taping the block. Then as above. I sure other old hands will have some more tips and advice. Best of luck with it. Andy

Thanks Roy. Double cooling before and after never thought of it that way. Where have you placed the cooler and pictures? Andy

Imperial set normal and stubbies. Couple of spare long HT leads, coil, condenser/points and a length of wire and some zip ties.

So it is

Hi Paul Only leads worth buying in my opinion are the Black Magnacore set. Expensive but well made with quality connectors which will out last the best of the rest. Buy once as they say! Andy

Just a thought. Modern EFI's often have the PRV on the injector fuel rail and then back to the tank. I wonder if the TR PI PRV could be fitted below the MU and the return act as a cooler on its way back to the tank? Would the Bosch pump have enough pressure over this distance to deliver fuel at over 110 psi? Has this being tried. Andy

A rare breed of a shop!

Yes it is but the proposed changes will destroy the very asset that may attract potential members! Andy

Buy the best you can afford body wise unless you like welding or fancy a project. The mechanicals are easier and cheaper to fix.

Out of interest how would you do the same with the Pertronix set up? Andy

Hi Jason Suspect the previous owner had difficulty getting the PI to run well but they can be made just as reliable if you want to learn - I'm still learning but its fun! Converting back will cost more than finding a PI that already runs well. Plus if you want originally find one to start with. PI is slightly more bhp but some will likely dispute its more. In short go PI the support is out there and on here. Carbs are just as problematic and need careful set up. Andy

Fuel, spark should start. Firing order correct? Try a blast of easy start.

All I can say Jim is the tank definitely gets hot to the touch especially in the summer. That said I think the majority of the heat is transferred from the exhaust which sits directly below the tank. Fitting the heat shield as above has made a big difference to the boot temperature and the tank using nothing more scientific than my hand. But if you say you have had no problems why worry about it? I only intervened because the tar within the sound deadening was melting and sticking the spare tyre to the boot floor! So it was a bit hot!! Andy

Well said Richard. MT anybody listening yet? Andy

Used a Citeron C4 diesel cooler from the PRV return to cooler then back to the tank. The cooler was fitted outside to the boot floor. Did a thread somewhere on here but cant find it so here's a picture instead! Suspect it helps but making a exhaust shield seems to have had the biggest impact in reducing boot temperatures. Andy