Jump to content

PodOne

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    417
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

PodOne last won the day on October 19 2019

PodOne had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

52 Excellent

About PodOne

  • Birthday 07/26/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Wakefield
  • Cars Owned:
    MK1 MX5's 1.6 standard
    Mk1 MX5 1.6 Turbo
    1969 TR6 PI undergoing a complete restro
    BMW 3 series M Sports coupe's, Touring M Sport, X3/5 M sport.

Recent Profile Visitors

654 profile views
  1. Thanks Laurence I'll keep an eye out for some. Andy
  2. Hi all A few more questions. Refurbing the head lamps this afternoon and I have two different chrome finishing bezels. A snap on and a screw on version. Which is the correct one for the year? The headlights are also an odd pair, one is a sealed beam the other a halogen H4 unit. Any recommendations with regard to headlights which look period. Also one of the wiring harnesses has two green and one red heavy gauge wires with bullet connectors but have been cut at the other end . Any ideas? I can only guess they might have been for a pair of fog lights given the gauge. Thanks as ever. Andy PS Hopefully put them on my list for Stoneleigh along with most of the rest of the car!
  3. Thanks all. One less thing to find then! Andy
  4. PodOne

    Noisey Alternator

    Thanks Waldi don't suppose you have a part number?
  5. Hi all As you might know my car arrived in boxes so I'm not sure if I've got everything plus I lost a lot of the pics I had taken when the dreaded IT virus took my lap top out (I known I should have backed it up). Anyway as a change from body work I'm planning on putting the dash back together and I was hoping some kind person might share some pics of the dash lay out for a 69 car and confirm if they had a hazard warning switch as I can't see where it would fit. Thanks as ever Andy
  6. PodOne

    Noisey Alternator

    Thanks Roger I'll have a look. Andy
  7. PodOne

    Noisey Alternator

    So can you still get a genuine 55A LUCAS Alternator form anyone rather than a Chinese copy? Thanks Andy
  8. Get well all soon nothing worse than feeling grotty. Mega dose of Vit C via 4 oranges/day works well for me.
  9. Hi Bruce Had the same issue. The sills aren't stamped to the correct shape and as Waldi says the indent isn't deep enough at the bottom. The rears are even worse and I ended off cutting and letting in metal to deepen them. You could lead or simply cut and shut the bottoms of the wings above the swage line when the door is in place and lined up with everything else. Or before you do cut anything align the door as above and then pull the lower front of the wing out against a straight edge along the sill as I found it reduced the gap. Andy
  10. Thanks Mark, John, CK and Harald perfect info as ever! Bolts ordered. Don't you just love this forum. Thanks again Andy
  11. Hi Folks I was planning to temporary fit the engine and box to the car to check all the panel gaps remain the same with some weight through the chassis before I send the shell for blasting/paint. I've just been reading the post regarding gearbox noise and Roger made reference to "alignment bolts" I was expecting there to be the normal dowels on the box or engine block but there are none so I guess its important these bolts are in the correct position. Unfortunately I've none of the original fitting hardware or reference pics as to where each of bolts (or studs fit which I gather are the top three holes) and more specifically where the two alignment bolts fit in exactly in which holes in the bell housing bolt pattern. The Moss and Rimmers schematics aren't clear and the TR6 Brown repair manual makes no reference to the alignment bolts. nothing on much google images. Don't suppose anyone has any more specific diagrams or sources or tips getting the alignment right? Thanks Andy
  12. Used POR after 18 months of being opened as said above don't get any paint between the lid/tin and as an extra precaution use some polythene. Use cheapish brushes and bin after use as the cost of the thinners is extortionate and use POR metal prep first. Bonda Rust I've used from the can with a brush and spread it well but can leave some shallow spots requiring a second application after allowing it to cure for about a week. Think on reflection its better thinned with cellulose and sprayed on in a couple of applications. Andy
  13. Another opinion in favour. Martin refreshed my old distributor and converted it to electronic ignition rather than points. Given he sells this option it must be as reliable. Plus how many "modern" cars now run on points? I bet none as electronic ignition is inherently more reliable and gives a constant spark. The issue with our cars is that it still relies on a gear and shaft which wears rather than a Hall effect sensor. So its a halfway house with a chance of failure like most things. But if you crave originality and like to play in the rain then fair enough! Time will tell if I choose wisely. Andy
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.