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About PodOne

  • Birthday 07/26/1964

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  • Cars Owned:
    MK1 MX5's 1.6 standard
    Mk1 MX5 1.6 Turbo
    1969 TR6 PI undergoing a complete restro
    BMW 3 series M Sports coupe's, Touring M Sport, X3/5 M sport.

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  1. Just a suggestion to think about. The hole in the metal should be there so why not take the screws out of the dash front and pull it forward and remove one the largest gauge closest to the ashtray if space is tight. Then at each corner of the ashtray hole push up some strong wire and then mark the top of the dash and then cut the hole. That way you will know for certain its in the right place. I would cut it smaller than required and adjust to fit the retaining ring and use a bit of black silicone to hold in place if required. Andy
  2. Strangest looking walnut I've ever seen mine also just looks like "Teak" or are we just used to thinking all walnut should look like burr walnut? Andy
  3. Thanks all for the explanations. So just like EFI where enrichment decreases along with fast idle as water temp increases. So with PI and the cams its reliant on you gradually pushing the choke back in as the engine warms up. Not as linear as EFI and as said wear and slack in the system will mess things up I've had everything reconditioned by Neil and have acquired both after market over and under throttle arrangements to try when the time comes. Thinking Triumph might have considered a single bi metallic strip arrangement to control both cams rather than a cable to give a progressiv
  4. Hi all Thanks for the feed back. You will have to bear with me as I come from the world of EFI but I'm determined to keep the car on the OEM PI so will have to learn. Bob If I'm understanding this right on a early PI for a cold start one cable to the metering unit gives enrichment. The other cable goes to the fast idle cam to control the butterflies to increase the revs until warm. So once started in theory you are using increased revs only to prevent stalling using a single cable until warm rather than enrichment on the other separate cable which is pushed in once engine start achie
  5. Thanks all for the DIY options just what I like as a tight Yorkshire type. Obviously we are not alone! No lathe but I'm sure a mate will help all I need is a broken one to fix as I don't have one to even fix. Anyone got one kicking around? Again thanks Andy
  6. Thanks Brian Joy as ever poor quality replacement parts. I was hoping there would be a choice, from what you are saying get the long one and hope when it fails there is enough length left to affect a repair. Andy
  7. Cylinder head is the best place for the sensor. Andy
  8. Just been checking and getting the sill contours to match the wing bottoms. The A posts are good but I've lost the B posts due to the body drooping off the chassis close when I jack the rear so I'm happy I can get them back. One thing I thought I'd pass on is replicating the hinge positions once removed from the shell. I took mine off before blasting but while the tub was on the chassis, the panels where all aligned and I drilled a couple of reference holes which has made setting everything back up much easier. Andy
  9. As above use 2K spray paint but please use a decent mask like this one from 3M https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-in-1-6200-7502-Paint-Spray-Gas-Shield-Safety-Work-Facepiece-Respirator-Filter/313201560032? as the fumes even out doors aren't pleasant. Andy
  10. Hi all I need a cable for my car. After a look around at the usual suspects they are not cheap for what they are. There also seems a number of types in terms of different lengths, construction in terms of solid or flexible core and the pictorial on the knob. So its a bit confusing what to go for. So before I order can people offer opinion on who makes the best one and is correct for my year of car in terms of the length etc. As ever thanks for advice. Andy
  11. Try soaking with penetrating oil for a few days and heat just bear in mind it will destroy the paint. Or as said cut the brackets, repair later or replace. Andy
  12. Hi Ian I inherited a book from Mullard (along with other period home electronic books from guys like Briggs, Wharfedale) to promote their valve with amplifier designs such as the 510 for use with EL34 and EL84? valves. I built a pair of mono blocks with EL34's about 30 years ago when you could just about find power supply transformers and high voltage caps etc from visiting radio rallies and had the output transformers wound by Sowters not sure if they are still around now. Got me thinking I should dig them out and give them a warming. Andy Wow just checked the web Sowte
  13. Hi Rob Off topic but I'm a bit of a Hi Fi nerd as well! Valves for me never went out of fashion they still outshine the most expensive transistor offerings despite what the critics might say. I've never liked the sound of transistors even when run in Class A. At present running a Conrad Johnson Premier 11 valve amp I found broken propping a door open a few years ago, Quad pre amp and Linn deck as it sounds better than my CD player which has a valve in its output stage no doubt to try and make it sound more natural. I've also got pair of Quad II mono blocks and Leaks which I've acquir
  14. Too modern for me! I'm still using an old valve Armstrong FM radio receiver in the garage it sounds better than DAB. Your right Roger finding people who can understand, repair vintage radio's etc is a rare thing now, long gone are the days you could buy a book of circuit diagrams and build/repair it yourself. The old style radio/tv repair shops have nearly all gone. Andy
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