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PodOne last won the day on December 12 2018

PodOne had the most liked content!

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About PodOne

  • Birthday 07/26/1964

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  • Cars Owned:
    MK1 MX5's 1.6 standard
    Mk1 MX5 1.6 Turbo
    1969 TR6 PI undergoing a complete restro

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  1. I've used these a bit to do some match porting in the past driven from a powerful mains drill but to be honest there is not that much torque at the chuck end which is also quite poor at gripping anything that well as its hand tightened. If you have a decent compressor you might be better off and safer with a dye grinder and rotary brush As said you need the mains drill well secured. Had mine in a vice or workmate or it will bite! Andy
  2. Thanks both Like an idiot I'd forgot to measure where the nut fits in relation to the bulkhead so probably drill a hole where the time comes and use a nut and bolt, Andy
  3. Thanks people for the info, Roger might be right by the time I've messed about and fit a new one for £60 and use the old one as a paper weight.
  4. Hi Roger The flange didn't look too bad but now its leaked it probably worth sleeving it while I'm at it. No experience of sleeving shafts any idea which size or where to get one from? Cheers Andy
  5. Hi Folks The diff was stripped and refurbed to replace the oil seals which were toast and the diff refitted to a bare chassis. Since then its moved about twenty foot while I work on the shell to the other side of the garage and stood, guess what it leaks. I like to do things once and they last but it seems not this time. I used a synthetic seal from Rimmers rather than a leather one which came out. 1) Can the seal be replaced without dropping the diff out? 2) Which is better synthetic or leather and who sells the best one? Thanks again. Andy
  6. Anyone had this done in UK?
  7. Please don't take this as negative but how long will it last? Is the silver solder is softer compared to the steel it replaced?
  8. Nice spud mashers should last a while
  9. Ta Richard I'll have a set of these good value
  10. Bit of patching and panel making on Sat. The drivers side bulkhead panel had rot and a crack and needed a patch right along its length so the original filler panel from the wheel arch was toast so I remade out of 18 gauge thicker than the original which was thinned by rust. Plan to do the other side after fixing the whole and replacing the battery tray just can't yet decide where to cut its mainly the rear seam and bottom that is really thin.
  11. +1 John I'd try to use what you have. I had the pleasure of fitting a repro inner wing it was half the gauge of the original and lets just say I might as well have made it from scratch very poor fit. I went on to fix the other side and returned the panel. If the chassis is straight a bit of pulling while its on the chassis using ratchet straps/scissor jack and blocks may work well enough. Andy
  12. Sorry to high-jack your thread Steve but same question regarding gearbox mounts TR6 with overdrive. Andy
  13. Unless your mad about absolute originality I'd put it into the boot where its out of harms way from muck, salt, potential damage and easy to get at if required most likely why it got moved by triumph after a short time in production. Mine is an early PI and its going in the boot!
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