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PodOne last won the day on March 20

PodOne had the most liked content!

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About PodOne

  • Birthday 07/26/1964

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  • Cars Owned:
    MK1 MX5's 1.6 standard
    Mk1 MX5 1.6 Turbo
    1969 TR6 PI undergoing a complete restro
    BMW 3 series M Sports coupe's, Touring M Sport, X3/5 M sport.

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  1. Would not be without them have straight, flexible heads and stubby ones. Halfords where possible but would not recommend cheap as they are generally larger increments and harder to use in tight spots where fine is better. For the odd tight spot I grind a decent ring spanner down.
  2. Thanks all My old one was like the one in Stuarts pic. I thought maybe the new one with a curve at both ends was possibly a way to replace the panel while leaving the valences in place rather than a universal panel for a number of TR models. Now I know I'll trim it down as required after I've knocked it into shape its not the best of pressings as it has lots of ripples near the edges and will need holes cutting as per the old panel. Andy
  3. PodOne

    Pressure regulator

    I used to run the pump in the tank to keep it cool and braided lines well away from the exhaust on the outside of the shell, safer in the event of fire. To keep injectors inlet side cool use polyprop isolation gaskets on the throttle bodies I was surprised just how much difference this made, while you could not touch the cam cover you could keep your hand on the plenum even after a thrash on a track. The other benefit is that the fuel returned to the tank remains cooler as the rail is on the cool side.
  4. That's a lot of wear John over a short time? Makes me wonder the release bearing has been completely disengaging? Either that or the fingers are of poor quality. Andy
  5. Hi folks Removed the old boot floor, RH side/floor and inner/outer valance and untaken quite a few edge repairs and fitted a new RH side/floor and repaired the LH one from the remains of the RH. I've temporarily placed the new floor in position and it will need quite a bit of knocking into shape. There is quite a bit of droop looking from the from the two side panels. Do I need to brace the and support the panels from the inner wings or will the inner lower valance pull it all into place? I've no spot welder and reproducing the plug weld looks like it will be a pain as I can't see a way of clamping the edges together to do a good job of it other than pop rivets which I can't see been that good at pulling the panels together unless putting them in every few inches. Any suggestions or tips appreciated. Thanks Andy PS Oops forgot to ask. The new floor has a curved lip at the rear unlike the oil one is this to facilitate replacing a floor in situ and should it be cut in my case?
  6. Hi Mark Nice web site which gives me inspiration to keep cracking on! I'm still welding, welding and more welding, 3 square meters of steel and 5kg of mig wire. Andy
  7. Just to add to Stuarts list if replacing the sills is to extend the downward floor outer sill up to be sandwiched between the inner and outer sill so in effect you have three tubes running the length of the sills. I also found adding a flange to where the bulkhead meets the flat panels under the front wheel arch made a big difference in reducing twist to the front inner wing's and seals up a muck and rust trap (mine was rotten). I also have seam welded the floor pans. Given the above comments I have a steel tank but while the shell is bear is it worth adding a fire wall now if so I have a few questions; 1) Can this be 1mm metal sheet welded in? 2) Or is Ali sheet pop riveted into place better? 3) dose it need to be removable to allow for future maintance? Lastly anyone got any pictures? Andy
  8. Hi Waldi Suppose you could make it so it bolts in. Not quite as stiff but at least removable only thing is the floor panels are like "wet rags" even with the corrugations. Or why not brace the bulk head and triangulate from there to meet at the metal tunnel attached to a welded in half hoop, just make the brace a bolt in affair but again the floor pans are still able to flex! Where do you stop? If I had the space I'd buy another MK1 MX5 put in the V6 lump it was designed for and watch it run rings round a 6 but then I'd be divorced after promising not to mod anymore cars and have to be happy with Nissan Micra! Just no fun around here Besides the old girl needs to be kept old. Andy
  9. The chassis design was probably the best that could be achieve in terms of what the engineers were allowed to spend at the time and evolved from what went before, I think trying to radically alter it now would simply bring up the next weak spot the main ones of which are known as said through long term ownership and can be addressed. Major alterations take away too much of the originality and some of the charm of owning one of these cars for some. If you want to improve it and make a modern chassis I'd scrap the old one altogether and consider using front and rear sub frames with dbl wish bone multi link suspension built around two ladder frames and a torque tube linking the gearbox to the diff. Only problem is IMO is that its no longer a TR but more of a kit car. Simple things I've done to improve the current chassis and tub stiffness is to seam weld some of the seams, seam welded the tub mounting brackets, and extended the downward return flange on the sills up to meet the inner sills ie sandwiched between the outer/inner sill so you have effectively two tubes down each side. I also plan while beefing up the steering column mount is to weld a brace across bulkhead to cut down scuttle shake all of which will be invisible. In the end each to there own! Andy
  10. PodOne

    Torque wrench

    Another here for Halfords plus you get a life time guarantee against breakage. For the bottom end ranges I went for 1/4" Teng . Andy
  11. PodOne

    Air temp sensor

    Hi Rob Before the throttle body so its measuring the actual air temp which the ecu can apply to working out the fuelling for all six injectors. If you put it in the plenum the air will be hotter due to heat being transferred from the engine which will cock up the fuelling. Andy
  12. Dish washer and a buff with tooth paste. On the dish washer front I once put a cylinder head and other oily bits into ours when the Mrs was out for the day. Only thing was she came home early and discovered my dirty little secret and boy were my ears sore! Andy
  13. You need a younger model KOB they don't tend to sag as much!
  14. After removing the rear outer and inner valences last week the boot floor was repaired along it rear edge but after attacking a few more scabby areas the metal was really thin and the back third of the RH boot floor/side was also very rusty. So rather than spending loads of time trying effect repairs I bit it the bullet and cut out the boot floor and RH boot side/floor panel and made some edge repair patches. Off next week and the wife's away so I should be able to make some progress with been nagged to death Happy days!
  15. +1 and anything else with their name on it
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