PodOne

So is Shell V Power any better for our cars? Andy

The plugs are likely sooted up. I think a fresh set of plugs and fuel will sort it. Andy

No joy from Tex. Not interested as they were purchased over 12 months ago so not impressed as they have only been fitted 6 months and not seen any rain yet! Any other quality options or are we stuck with Tex? Andy

Or like me you can take the old motor out and with a bit of grinding fit a modern pump for £5 and no one will ever know. Andy

Hi David Given the work involved to repair it you could consider removing it and using it as a pattern to make your own loom with as many fuses and relays as you want and with better terminations with separate earths for each circuit rather than using the body for earths . I did this for my TR6 after finding the old loom had being on fire in a few places and repaired badly plus the cost of a new loom was too rich for me. The modern wires carry more current for the same diameter but as Stuart says thinner insulation. The overall thickness of my loom wasn't too thick in the end even wi

Hi all I thought I would update this just in case it might help someone else. For the clarity the system is all new or reconditioned as follows Ali tank -- 10mm outlet -- 10mm fuel tap -- Pre filter -- Pump -- MU -- PRV -- Fuel Cooler -- Back to tank along with MU return. Work done. 1) Tank out emptied and checked for **** - none found and both returns to the tank were clear 2) Fuel tap checked its 10mm ID no restriction 3) From tap to Fuel filter the inlet drops to 8mm - so some restriction here a 10mm pre filter would seem better but then its outlet is 8mm as is

Hi Tony Have a look at the clutch slave cylinder beneath the car just behind the oil filter most likely the seals have failed and lost its fluid. Andy

Thanks all for your feedback never given it that much thought until now. As Jonny suggests I'll drop Martin an e mail just to check that it is in fact redundant. Andy

Hi folks 1969 PI distributor which I think is original which has being reconditioned by Dizzy Doc and fitted with electronic ignition. On examination it has a small knurled adjuster wheel I presume for advance/retarding the ignition. There is no vacuum connection/diaphragm. Does this actually do anything or do you have to turn the whole body to adjust? Thanks Andy

+1 for Rogers Logic Box works a treat. Andy

Hi Mike A sneaky solution like it - an adjustable air choke. Likely easier to set the fast idle than the current mechanical set up with all its potential for wear/play in the linkages. So does this replace the air bleed screw ie is it full open to allow base idle to be set as well with the heater valve. Any more pics and what heater valve have you used? Andy

I suspect the quality will fall to the lowest of the pairing while any competitive pricing element will disappear on the back of increased profits. Or they load it with so much debt it folds and they move on to the next family business to feed on. On the plus side the remaining supplies of quality parts might see and increase in demand if they can hold fast. Andy

Moved response to another thread.

Hi Roger worth a go I suppose although it was around 2 years ago. Andy

Hi folks My wiper arms from TEX which I bought a long time ago but only recently fitted have unfortunately begun to shed the chrome finish from the caps which is disappointing. Anyone suggest better quality alternatives preferably in stainless steel? Thanks Andy

+1

Hi Mike Can't enlighten as to the adjustability of the original set up but clearly there was some changes made across the years to improve the handling albeit with some difficulty now in achieving any changes. What I can say is the adjustable brackets make it much easier to adjust the camber using a camber gauge. Setting the toe in isn't too hard. The front for me has been more problematic. Andy

Thanks all There is no pre filter to the pump. The filter is after the pump maybe this is something to think about adding but I understand there are lots of cars without a pre filter. I'll report back when I have done some further investigations. Andy

Hi Mike I blew though the return from the MU to tank when the MU was off to replace the seal between the two halves of the MU. (forgot the name). On removing the cap there was no vacuum so guess its venting ok. The gauge is tapped into the feed just as it enters the MU. Ive no picture of the gauge but it does read 108-110 psi prior to developing the issue. I'm going to see what she reads tomorrow from cold and physically check the fuel level in the tank as although the fuel gauge reads 50% I wonder if it's a true reading hence fuel starvation. I'd just returned following a blast

Hi folks Looking for some pointers as to the current issue. The car has covered over 500miles and after a decent run today with no issues or prior I thought it was time to see if I could make the idle a little more evenly as she was oscillating between 600 - 1000 rpm ( I accept they are always bit lumpy) and improve the pick up on accelerating esp in 2nd which after 3000rpm she goes well and not too bad in 3rd & 4th. Tank 50% full of fresh fuel. The whole PI system was refurbished by Neil Ferguson and is running a Bosch pump to an original PRV all fed from new Ali tank with a 10m

If the replacement repro panel are as poor as those for the TR6 I would suggest you repair what you have. I ended up going this way when I couldn't make the repro fit after which I simply cut it up to repair the original. Andy

You need to learn how to drink correctly

Thanks for the warning Rob nothing is simple is it? Both cars are of the CAN NOT TOUCH variety!!

Thanks for the advice Alan I'll be giving it a go on our cars as both require the brake pedal to be pressed. Andy

Thanks Rob interesting read, 20L it is then.