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About Keith66

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Mids
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6 Pi
    2003 MG TF in Monogram Celestial
    And an MG Ztt with an unusual number of cylinders.
    Way to many Diesel company cars over last 25 years.

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  1. Hi Sean + All That does look pretty good. I've alway been a bit dubious about those chrome paints in the past but on a small area it looks great. But if anyone does have a RH i can swap it or buy it. Cheer Keith
  2. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi all Yep i wished i had checked my system dry with a Gunson type pressure system before putting any fluid in. But bleeding manually has alwasy worked no prob in the past. But then again not from completly empty system, so we live and learn. Used the Gunson from a tyre, which i doubt has 15psi in it so that seemed ok. I'll give it all another go again tomorrow and see how i get on. Cheers for the suggestions Keith
  3. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi I get what you mean as the pass side branch of the rears is still full of air that is compressible so braking efficiency would be reduced when braking. But using the Gunson I do have plenty of fluid at the DS bleed valve so the single line from the front to the rear must also full to the three way. It will only be from the three way to the pass side drum its air as the DS to the bleed valve is full of fluid. I would assume that fully depressing the brake pedal when the DS bleed valve is open should drive more fluid out rather than compress air in another part of the system. The pressure generated by depressing the brake pedal should take the easiest (is lowest pressure) route which will be via the open bleed valve. But even with the bleed valve open depressing the brake pedal pushed no more fluid through. But I’ll go with the suggestion and will bleed the pass side tomorrow. Would have done today but with a V small garage the side I’m not working on is barely 6 inches from the wall and changing sides without going outside in the rain is V difficult. Cheers Keith
  4. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi All Got hold of a previously used Gunson so have to assume it works as it should. We after a bit of faffing around with it i got fluid at the rear drivers side bleed nipple. Had to do that side to keep out of the rain. Yeah success, or not. So got fluid coming through and closed the nipple off. But as the Gunson seems to push fluid throught at 15 to 20 PSI I decided to get the remaining slightly bubbly fluid out more gently the old fashioned press the pedal way. And there I noticed the problem. Pressing the brake pedal barely moves any fluid through the line to the rear wheel cylinder, you can tell by how much the bubbles move or don’t move. Now I don’t know how much fluid a full brake pedal push is supposed to move but I’m pretty sure it would be more than a couple of mm worth. And even though I now have fluid to the rear DS brake there is zero braking effect on that drum when the pedal is pressed. So a new question is could a brake cylinder fault mean that the fronts work ok but the rears have zero pressure applied to the line via fully depressing the brake pedal? Cheers Keith
  5. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi All Thanks for the replies, there are a couple of things there i will recheck and it also gives me and idea to try to rig up some kind of vacum to "pull" some fluid through or try to see if someone i know has a Gunson or similar. Cheers Keith
  6. Hi All This really is a stupid one and largely my own doing. A while ago (not sure how long but a few years) I bought a new front wing indicator repeater unit to replace my broken rusty one. Exactly as I wanted, UK spec with the chrome edging, great matched the original I still had. But recently when fitting my LED’s I noticed a bit of a prob. I’ve got two LH lenses, so I assume I didn't realise they were different or i just picked the wromg part number, stupid. Ok they both fit and it not the end of the world but now I know I’m not happy, but there is a simple solution, buy a new RH lens. Unfortunately things are never that simple because the chrome edged ones are NCA. So I either have miss-matched lenses or as an alternative I have miss-matched lenses, lol. So two questions, does anyone know who can supply a chrome edged RH lens? And I’ve e-mailed most of the people I can think of but no joy, they all seem to be plain amber. Or does anyone have one to sell or swap. Cheers Keith
  7. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi Guy's I'm with Waldi that as the line will be empty i could take ages for the fluid ot come through. But i would expect to see air bubbles to be being forced out of the line into my container half full of DOT4 when my helper presses the brake pedal but i'm getting next to nothing, the odd tiny air bubble but often nothing and we've done 20 to 30 brake pedal depresses each side, which given other cars i've done is plently. This seems to indicate the air is not being forced out by fluid, which i cannot understand. A block is possible but as everything is new and it all worked 3 days ago i'm thinking that is unlikely. Its as thought the movement in the pedal is not being transferred to movement of the fluid indicating a fault in the master cylinder, but the front bakes bleed and work as expected indicating it ok. As i said i'm stumped. Cheers Keith
  8. Keith66

    Brake Problem

    Hi All This should be a simple thing but it’s gone wrong and I’m puzzled as I do not know what the problem is. Getting an all new brake system up and running. Everything is new, never been used so I filled it with DOT4 and bled the back and front. All seemed ok’ish with the brakes stopping and wheel spun by hand. Until I discovered the 3way at the rear was leaking where it joins the flexible pipe on the pass side. So I had to remove that and renew the copper seal washer. As I didn’t have one it did get left overnight unconnected, but put it all back together today but as I disconnected it the fluid in that main front to rear line leaked out. Well to be expected, wasted a bit of fluid but got some spare so no issue. Just re-bleed the rears then all ok I thought. But its not, I cannot get the rears to bleed. When depressing the brake pedal, no air bubbling through and no fluid at the bleed nipples, either side, no activation of the wheel cylinders, nothing. No being sure of the problem re-bled the fronts and no prob, all working as expected and the brakes stop the fronts turning when the pedal is depressed. I cannot detect any fluid or air coming out of the three way where the original leak was and there were and are not any other visible leaks so I just cannot work out what might be wrong and what to try. I’ve bled brakes before on other cars and not had a problem and it should be a fairly straightforward process, even for me. But this has got me stumped. I’m sure its going to be something simple but I’m at a loss and just can’t figure it out. Any suggestions? Cheers Keith
  9. Hi All Reading around on this subject as i've had some starting issues which were helped by using a dedicated 12v Batt in the boot for some initial starts. Seems once started and been running for a few mins it will start ok. But if left for a while, weeks, it struggles. So I’m going to go the dedicated 12v feed to the pump (Lucas on mine). I absolutely get the theory behind the wiring but not being an auto-electrician I’d rather follow a wiring diag than wing it. There was a post which referred to one but the link seemed to link back to the same post so I’m a little lost on that and was hoping someone had a diagram. Q2 is what spec Relay do i need. Again fine with the theory of the Ign wiring telling the relay to connect the direct feed but all relays are not the same and i have no idea what spec I might need. Cheers Keith
  10. Hi All Been reading this thread with increasing concern. When i got rebuilt my engine errr cough cough years ago i well just bought a new oil pump from one of the big outfits and just bunged it in. Didn't think much about the old one, well a new one is it bound to be better right, although it seems maybe not. Well I'm going to check them both now, not having binned the old one. So something else to do now, but it also brings to mind a question. When did Triumph stop using the pump with square type oil pickup with the internal wire gauze filter As mine is a very early 72 reg date it would have been built late 71 so curious as to what it would have had. Cheers Keith
  11. Hi All Thought I would update everyone with the latest developments on my dodgy reverse lights. So I was convinced that either the switch actuator section of the reverse gear selector wasn’t moving far enough out of the way or was just too big. Hence my threat to the gearbox to get my angle grinder out. But I decided on caution and ordered a new bit as it was surprisingly cheap and better to have a spare if I ruin one with my angle grinder skills or lack of. Well my new bit arrived today and sorted all of my problems. As you can see from the pic the high part of the step that actuates the switch is just shorter (top one), so the switch works perfectly. I bench tested it, its fine, I dry fitted and tested it, its fine so now fitted with new gaskets etc and its all fine. Lights on when in rev and off when out. Yeah And from the pic of the switch hole you can immediately see why. In my original pics the switch actuator part was in the centre of the switch hole, in the new ones it’s there in one but in the other its far enough out of the way. I also tested the OD switches and can hear the satifying clunk as the solenoid operates so everything in that bit looks like it works as it should. Just got to get on and finish the rest now, before my possible new charge arrives Cheers Keith
  12. Bruce To be honest better chance than average that maybe they did, afterall they build new and repair the whole range of TR chassis so i'm sure they've seen pretty much most of the likely problems and would design mods with that in mind. Alan, now I'm def no chassis or mechanical engineer but my feeling would be that i wouldn't want to put any more forces through the lever arm mounting on the trailing arm. A coilover with that as a bottom mount just seems like it could be too much to me and I'm sure i've read somewhere this is a known failure point. But someone with more knowledge than I maybe able to comment more knowledgably than I can. Cheers Keith
  13. Hi Bruce And i think the vast majority like you won't have any problems at all, esp if the appropriate shock unit is fitted. But all our cars are old and they fail for many many reasons. Modifying from std spec is one, not modifying is another. After all i doubt the expected design life expectancy of a not hugely expensive 1970's car was ever going to be 50 years. They why we kepp having to mess with them. And to be honest restoring and keeping them going is half the point. Cheers Keith
  14. Hi Adrian I considered converting from lever arms and dismissed type ones as a bad idea, as you say due to the stresses they exert on the bodyshell, which was never designed to cope with direct suspension stresses, but I thought type 2’s were a good idea as they bolted directly to the lever arms chassis mount points, I even bought and fitted a set. But there is a thread on here showing the result of a chassis failure with a type 2. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/66376-rear-shock-conversion-what-not-to-use/ I suppose the failure is down to the chassis not being designed to take the kind of high vertical loads imposed by telescopic shocks rather than lever arms and or an incorrect or incompatible model of telescope being fitted. But I don’t suppose it’s an exactly common occurrence and will probably have been contributed to by hard shocks and errr, spirited driving over rough surfaces and even chassis weakness due to age and corrosion, although all TR6 chassis are now old, so there is a a risk. And I’m sure lots have fitted them with no issues and that they offer benefits over lever arms so each to their own. Cheers Keith
  15. Hi Tony I have two new switchs and one old original that came with the car. With the known history of my car and its errr, extended time off the road i'm pretty sure that is either original or early 80 replacement not a modern one in todays money. and all three switch perform the same. just waiting for my new reverse slector fork so i can try it all agian amd modify if i need to. Cheers Keith
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