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Keith66

TR Register Members
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    450
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About Keith66

Profile Information

  • Location
    West Mids
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6 Pi
    2003 MG TF in Monogram Celestial
    And an MG Ztt with an unusual number of cylinders.
    Way to many Diesel company cars over last 25 years.

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1,031 profile views
  1. Hi Richard Yes a picture does indeed speak a 1000 words and the setup can clearly be seen. I absolutely see the value in door bars, after all most if not all newish cars have them, just didn’t realise until now they were an early 70’s TR6 thing. TBH if I had known I I would have mimicked the setup before my repaint, difficult to do now, but given they weren’t present on my UK car and it’s the age it is I really didn’t give door bars any thought at all at welding time. I’ll have to try not to get T-boned. Cheers Keith
  2. Hi Guy's esp Derek I see the US cars def seemed to have the bars, i recognise one of Ed H's bullfire images. So were they just a USA market thing perhaps inline with other USA impact reg's, like the bumper overiders? I know Ed's car is a late-ish one and has overriders. the question is would BL have had two different type of doors, one for export, mainly to the US, it was the main market after all. You bet they would, anything to save cost, i've another late 60's BL thing and there are a number of little almost unnoticable he cost cutting things that were done between the 68 and
  3. Hi Trouble is they really do deteriorate with age, although the exact age they are “unsafe” is a bit of a lottery. I acquired my project car with early 80’s tyres and mid restoration some time ago I decided to get my wheels shot blasted and powder coated as they were pretty rusty. The car was not ready to go on the road so rather than putting new tyres on for it to sit in the garage for a couple of years I decided to put the old tyres back on until it was road ready. Similar to you there were no cracks or other signs of aging and they had plenty of tread. But when one of th
  4. Keith66

    Door Cards

    Hi All Can't remember what the inside of the doors looked like when i got it but either there was no or little plastic sheet there or i binned it if it was horrible and nasty without thinking much about it. Up to that point i'd only played with newer cars, late 70's or 80's which as far as i can recall had a single moisture barrier on the inner door skin. And thats what i'd kind of planned to do. Searching for a suitable image to show what i mean i can across this. https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/door-panel-moisture-barrier-645-470.html Which is what i'd planned to do bu
  5. Hi All The odd thing with mine is that once warmish it starts no prob on the main car battery. Only when cold or not started for a while does it need the "help" of the boot battery. I'm going to try a temp direct earth to see if that improves things but the battery earth strap to the body has been checked and as everything has been done and its a new harness i was hoping things would be ok. But i've got a few other electrical tasks to do, like a weak horn so i'm going to be playing electrics for a few days, yeah. Cheers Keith
  6. Keith66

    Door Cards

    Hi Stuart I'm keen to get things as correct as possible, within reason, but i really can't picture it. Any pics or are there any reference diagram out there to help me see what i might be aiming at? Cheers Keith
  7. Hi Steve A similar but not quite same problem. So I struggle to get my car to start as well, also its running on all original refurbed Lucas. Now my car is just out from a, well fairly lengthy home restoration by me so that probably explains it all. But the battery is good, fully charged and about 12.6 or more V on the multi-meter and i've checked the earths as well. Testing the V at the pump I’m getting 1 or more V less. Well that’s the prob then, voltage drop via the new (quality) harness. So def worth checking that. But the solution is simple direct feed (via relay) to t
  8. Keith66

    Door Cards

    Hi Stuart Sounds overly complex, but hey what do i know i don't design cars. Think i'll get rid of the sheet inside my door as i can't see it performs a useful funcation these days. But i'll ad a sheet stuck to the inner side of the door so its between the door and the door card to stop the door car getting wet. Cheers Keith
  9. Keith66

    Door Cards

    Hi All Funnily enough I have exactly the same staples problem so the link is a great help. Another Q though. Couple of comments about the T50 stapler being ideal. Does that go for any similar style staple gun as I’ve got an older all metal draper staple gun looking almost identical that takes 10mm wide staples, or does a T50 do something special. Also what was the original door card inner made from? It just looks like compressed card so is the hardboard sheet (4mm) the normal option to replace it with. Not sure about having a go but mine are a little tatty its probably either g
  10. Hi Andrew My advice is find a local good independant paint and bodyshop materials wholesaler and get the to mix a can. The best way is to take a body part in they will scan it and mix a colour to match that colour, so your aeroslo will match the colour of your car faded or bright and not simply be what the factory painted back in the 1970's. I took the front air vent off my 72 into Sparaywell paints in the mids and they mixed an aerosol and the match is so close to perfect i really can't tell. It wasn't expensive and took maybe 10 mins. But you need to find someone tha
  11. Rich Sorry never thought about any pic's. Easy enough if abit of a faff, but bear in mind my door is bare, so no door card or plastic sheet so i can get bits out. I unbolted the winder mech and eased the glass out from the runners and removed the mech and then unbolted the lock side glass channel. There is then enough play in the parts to ease the glass out of the channel then that out of the door. Then the glass is loose enough to get to the seal channel from the bottom. I pushed the clips partly on and then used a home made J shaped tool to pull them on tightly. As R
  12. Hi All Bit of a coincidence as I’ve fitted my seals today, well the drivers door anyway. It was a bit of a pain but as I wasn’t following a guide I was kind of working it out as I went along and it will be easier doing the pass side. But I’ll have to disagree with Roger on one point. You can fit the glass into the channels inside the door. I’m near the end of a rebuild so I’d assembled the door ages ago so it was all working ok, but without seals. I thought I could just pop the seals in and easily hook the clips into place, how stupid am I. I did try installing th
  13. Keith66

    Hood Fitting

    Hi Peter Hope your memory’s better than mine, as me forgetting to measure the originals is what got me here. A 12mm M4 is about equivalent to a half inch No8, so I shouldn’t be a million miles out. Cheers Keith
  14. Keith66

    Hood Fitting

    Hi Took mine apart a while ago and negligently didn't do that as i should, hence the question. I'm thinking M4 or M5 and about 10mm or so long but thought someone might know they correct size rather than me guessing. Cheers Keith
  15. Keith66

    Hood Fitting

    Hi Waldi I was thinking of M5, but as you say could be M4. Recall how long they were? On the low head thing i might try some Allen type heads as they seem to have very low heads Cheers Keith
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