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About Keith66

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  • Location
    West Mids
  • Cars Owned:
    1972 TR6 Pi
    2003 MG TF in Monogram Celestial
    And an MG Ztt with an unusual number of cylinders.
    Way to many Diesel company cars over last 25 years.

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  1. Hi All Trouble is if you follow Bills link to the bit he quotes it seems to be a regulation update as of JAN 21. I too checked those regs a while ago when i was thinking about changing my old sealed beams and saw the reg only mentioned HID bulbs but not LEDs so I had the option back then but it seems not now. So if we are interpreting the update correctly the new regs def seem to indicate that LEDs as well as HIDs should be an MOT failure. I suppose those who have LED's and have an MOT soon will see what happens and hopefully report back. Whether you would ever get pulled and p
  2. Hi All I'd kind of agree that Vredestein are not a premium brand but I’d put them above the raft of unknown Chinese brands out there. The problem is if you prefer to stay 165 and don’t want a van tyre there is not a lot of choice and the TTrac2 has got pretty positive comments on our forums. I also looked at the classic tyres they still make for older cars like the Michelin XAS or XZX and Pirelli Cinturato CN36, but unless you really want the period authentic look I think the thick of £1500 a set for 1960’s tyre technology is a little pricy for my wallet. The most important
  3. Agree with Stuart and wouldn’t go for a Chinese brand I’d never heard of like Joyroad or Sailwin tyres but things are never simple are they. Strictly speaking our cars (top speed circa early 120’s, maybe but not mine, lol) should have H or above rated tyres. But I wanted to stay on 165 tyres and try buying H rated 165s, really not much choice. Its ok if you fit 195 or above, plenty of choice and cheap as chips, like Avon ZT7’s, Uniroyal Rainexpert or Toyo Proxes all for early to mid £40’s each. But an H rated 165 is a bit more. Ok for £100 each you can get a Retro branded tyre (
  4. Hi All Bit of a long shot as i really don't know the answer. Pretty sure the BMIHT records show it was an export car and which country it went to but do they show dealer destination outside the UK or just the importer? I know its doubtful but you never know the company might just still exist and have old records. I found an owner of a car i photographed in the early 2000's by speaking to the local dealer and they had serviced the car in the past. They kindly rang the guy and he agreed to meet with the view to selling the car as it was SORN at the time. Admittedly it wa
  5. I just have the std baffle plates at the moment but am thinking of adding wheel arch protectors and think keeping the existing baffle plates is a good idea but what is well sealed? Is it just making sure the rubber seals are in place and secure(ish) or really going to town with a sealant so there are zero gaps anywhere? I've already fitted a drain tube from the bonnet channel to outside the baffle plate near the bottom. Cheers Keith
  6. Hi All Mine was just a general question, my car has been back on the road for a while and I did my chassis repairs over 10 years ago but didn't know if TRier fitted a new or SH chassis it is considered ok as I really have no idea. And of course the rules may well be different in ROI anyway. Cheers Keith
  7. Hi All To be fair I don’t think my chassis was quiet as bad as Triers but after blasting I had to do the trailing arms, T Shirts and a few other repairs, but did consider a SH chassis but was unsure about how the DVLA view it and of course getting a good one is not simple. The DVLA website says that for rebuild vehicles (would a body off chassis counts as rebuilt?) “You can keep ots original registration number if you can prove you’ve used the original unmodified chassis or bodyshell” or “a new chassis or monocoque bodyshell of the same specification as the original” So how does
  8. Hi All Unfortunately this could be one of the consequences of leaving the single market. There seems to be lots more rules and new paperwork and it takes time and costs money for each exporting company to set up new systems. Once all of the rules are known and things are in place are in place it might not be too much of a problem for the bigger volume sellers, depending on how much international business they do but for smaller or specialist suppliers it might just be too much of an unknown and thus hassle so as Nigel said people will just stop international supplies. Less of a
  9. Hi Mick, I do agree, but thats the whole question is it advisable to change everything just cuz its all old or is the stub axle 90% of the risk and the hub itself 10% or visa versa? Trouble is new stub axles are about £220 or so but hubs are more like £700 or £850 plus for uprated so the cost is significantly higher. Also as you a driveshaft failure whilst a pain shouldn't be too safety critical, hopefully. And i don't really have to worry about the early 80's damage as my "barn find" was off the road by then but i take the point. Cheers Keith
  10. Hi All Odd one this, is it a common problem and are those poly versions pretty flexible to make them easier to fit? The reason i say odd and ask is that my plenum connectors are the originals i'm pretty sure and are very hard but they fit no problem at all. As my rebuild has only recently got to 95% finished I've taken them on and off loads of times over the last year or so and never even thought about it being a difficult job. Is it i have an odd set thats eqasy to fit or are the odd ones the difficult ones? Cheers Keith
  11. Hi All Sadly i can't quite stretch to a grand + on those CV driveshafts nice as they look, but as Roger rightly say our cars are getting towards 50 years old and the stub axles in particular are quite a high stress items, although less so on my std tune 50 years old engine which no doubt hasn't still got all of its horses present, but. So is the stub axle the main weak point or are other components particularly suspect as losing a wheel is not ideal. And is there a particular supplier that make good quality replacements or are they all cheap low quality versions. Cheers K
  12. Hi Really depends on the look you want, which is entirely personal. I went for what I thought was a more std look in that it’s the original factory veneer varnished in a satin varnish. Unless your dash is almost scrap it is a very simple task if the wooden plank is out. I stripped the old varnish off with paint stripper and gave it all a light rub down and very slight repairs to a couple of damaged areas. Not sure of the coats of varnish, prob 4 to 6 but no more but allow to harden well and do a very light rub down with a very fine grit sand paper (I used foam blocks) betwe
  13. Hi All Got the same light to fit myself soon so looked at this with interest. But as the pivs are real close ups i could really work out exactly where the plinth was placed. So i did a quick search and come up with this thread. Is this the position everyones is in and is the lens angled to the front or rear? Cheers Keith
  14. Hi Richard Yes a picture does indeed speak a 1000 words and the setup can clearly be seen. I absolutely see the value in door bars, after all most if not all newish cars have them, just didn’t realise until now they were an early 70’s TR6 thing. TBH if I had known I I would have mimicked the setup before my repaint, difficult to do now, but given they weren’t present on my UK car and it’s the age it is I really didn’t give door bars any thought at all at welding time. I’ll have to try not to get T-boned. Cheers Keith
  15. Hi Guy's esp Derek I see the US cars def seemed to have the bars, i recognise one of Ed H's bullfire images. So were they just a USA market thing perhaps inline with other USA impact reg's, like the bumper overiders? I know Ed's car is a late-ish one and has overriders. the question is would BL have had two different type of doors, one for export, mainly to the US, it was the main market after all. You bet they would, anything to save cost, i've another late 60's BL thing and there are a number of little almost unnoticable he cost cutting things that were done between the 68 and
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