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15eren last won the day on October 24 2018

15eren had the most liked content!

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  • Cars Owned:
    Peugeot 206 (still have)
    Toyota Paseo (still have)
    Triumph TR6 (still have)
    Mercedes SLK (171) (still have)

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  1. I also had a pair from CDD and I am sorry to tell, that I was not impressed. There was a little play in the bearings in one of the alloy-hubs and there was a significant play in one of the CV-joints. The end of the story was, that I had to rebuild one of the hubs and one of the shafts myself, after finding new parts. But after that, I agree, the CV-jointed half-shafts are an improvement. Tage
  2. 15eren

    Gearbox issue

    Hi all Thanks for your reply so far. I am using Penrite GB-40 gearbox-oil for GB and of course OD. Specification is API GL-1. That should be OK. And Roger: I am aware of the interlock in the top-cover of the Gearbox. Would it be possible that this interlock could fail now and then? Cheers Tage
  3. 15eren

    Gearbox issue

    Hi e Sometimes when I make a quick change from 4th to 3th I have a little resistence and a noise as if the synchro is not doing its job. But only sometimes. Normally it is OK. I have checked the clutch and it seems to be functioning perfect. Could it eventually be because when moving the shaft for the 3th and 4th selector, it also engages just a bit either the shaft for the 1th an 2th selector or perhaps the shaft for the reverse selector? I have come to the idea, because the fealing in the gear lever is as if it is trying to engage 2 gears at the same time. I know that there are some bullits to ensure that only one shaft is operating at the same time, but is it a possibility and have others had the same issue? About 6 months ago I had the same problem and removed the top-cover and inspected what could be seen from the top. I found nothing and after putting all together the problem disappeared. But now and then I now have the same problem. That made me think that it could have something to do with the interlock. Regards Tage
  4. Hi Rich Place the steel-sleeve in the lathe and polish inside with steel-wool and the edges at both ends with something that can make them a bit less sharp. And also polish the shaft. And do not forget to align the gearbox with the back-plate with the two dowels, that fits tight. That should do it. Cheers Tage
  5. Hi Rich I have just made a measurement on an old shaft and sleeve (steel). The shaft is 42,75 mm and the sleeve is 43,15 mm. Tage
  6. Hi Jochem I have the same stub-axle-kit and I am very satisfied. You can ajust to no play and the inner races of the bearing don´t rotate. Tage
  7. Hi all Thank You very much to all. I will installl the hinges on the door and I have a friend help me support the door. Cheers Tage
  8. I am replacing the door hinges on left side door on my TR6. The door is off and the new hinges are painted bodycolour. Can anybody tell me how the mounting will be most easy. Put the new hinges first to the body or first to the door? Cheers Tage
  9. Hi Pete Yes You have to turn the shocks 180 degrees. But thats an easy job :-). Cheers Tage
  10. Hi Mine are Spax and they have a plasticcover over the rod. And they are mounted "upside down". Have You measured that the bump-stop hits before the shock is fully compressed? Cheers Tage
  11. I refurbed mine last winther. Cleaned with high pressure hot water and made some alloy-modifications. Painted with a silver-paint called "motor-paint". Cheers Tage
  12. Hi Pete Yes they have commented several times. But their final conclusion is, that some play in the shafts is normal. They also agree, that there should not be play in the alloy-hubs. They are right about the hubs and perhaps they are right about the shafts. But as I have written before, the main reason to buy these expensive shafts and hubs is to get rid of clonking from the halfshafts. No recommendation from me. Cheers Tage
  13. Hi Andreas I see Your point. But in the gearbox and in the diff unwanted sound is partly eliminated, because everything is rotating in heavy oil. With the shafts it is different. I know that You loose less power in CV-jointed shafts, but in my opinion the main reason to install these shafts is to get rid of the annoying clonk from worn splined halfshafts with UJ´s. And my opinion is, that these CDD-shafts in no way are better than good, well-maintained splined shafts with UJ´s. I am also aware of the fact, that perhaps the problem is donor-parts of a too low quality, but I do not think that You have to accept that. At least I think that eveybody should consider what You may expect, before You buy these shafts. Cheers Tage
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