Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6 - BMW Powered

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi All, just to give the end details to the question I started with. I replaced the connectors and the warm wiring disappeared, so as suggested on here, it was high resistance caused by age etc... I also replaced the foot hi / lo switch with the do called VW relay. So the flash on the light switch now engages high beam if the lights are on or still act as a flash if the lights are not switched on. Very easy to wire in. Each of the three wires on the foot switch have a terminal to go to on the relay. Took the live feed to the flasher to the relay, connected one side of the two wires t
  2. I find keeping my eyes closed helps
  3. Hi Roy, I have the BMW straight 6 M50 engine fitted in mine, together with a BMW 5 speed box. I didn't do the conversion and there were / are a few snags that still need working on - if you are thinking of it, feel free to come and see it. Cheers, Rob
  4. Thank you Stuart - I didn't know that - that would deffo be and end game for the car.
  5. Hi Stuart, You may well be correct. That may be the project for 2022 Winter The main prob with the loom is all the non-standard stuff created by the implant of the BMW engine - so a new look may not be that helpful. After a good day in the garage it is looking somewhat better - hopefully I will get more playtime to further finesse it!
  6. Mike C - first off, thanks for not mentioning the cricket.... Funny enough, when I started to mooch about it felt more than 'sketchy'! - So battery is firmly disconnected. The car is a classic of folk adding and changing and not taking time to re-route wires - so it is all jumbled up - I have plodded through about a third of it and sorted them out- including running a new un-switched but fused permanent live wire, this to remove some wires that were scotchlocked on... I am waiting for new correct sized crimps to arrive before changing the main wire Thank you all - much appr
  7. Tony, Now that is an elegant solution - thank you for sharing the diagram - until I saw your post, I was planning on removing the foot button - but I will reconsider that now. I think I have the standard headlights - not sure if they are halogen, but they are as bright as a NAAFI candle at best!
  8. Thank you Gentlemen - that is more than helpful - unfortunately I am under Management Instructions this weekend, we are off to her Brothers - so unable to attempt this until next week. Steve, totally on that fault, as the fault is the loss of headlight and sidelight, reading other posts, seems likely that connector on the Brown/White wire is the culprit - so I will get a new one in there - I guess common sense would say to do that and check for heat - then change the wiring, so I am sure it is fixed. The reason for loss of overdrive is previous owner replaced the engine and gearbox w
  9. Thank you. Relays it is then! - and I wanted to use the now redundant overdrive lever to use for main beam - so can build it in. I appreciate the idea of putting the relay up front! That should save some effort - you suggest NSF - is the because the wiring to the offside shoots off from the nearside?
  10. Hi, Before I put the dash back on I thought I would look at some intermittent faults - headlights and side lights.. I have noticed that when I move the big lump of wires behind the dash they will come on and go off... As part of feeling my way round I have noticed that the Brown / White and Blue wires are really quite warm when the lights are working - the lights are standard - seems a bit odd to me, would that suggest the wires have had their day and need replacing? Also, they seem to have some kind of crimped metal connector on them which also seems to be on the wiring diagram -
  11. RobRennie


    Don't worry Mate, remember, us Brits are just in awe of you guys speaking more than one language!
  12. Thank you all - problem identified as always. Rich, you are on the money, I have an after market tank that is not sloped. I hope a 195 will fit, my plan is to go to my local tyre place in Shepton and try out one. Good point on Type Approval, I will ask them the detail, for me. I did tell the insurance company about the tyres and the wheels and as they approved the BMW engine, gearbox, rear suspension upgrade and front suspension change.... I think they just wanted me off the phone! Thanks all again.
  13. Thank you all - that confirms what I thought. I think will go down the space saver idea and fit a 185 wheel and treat it as a get me home. Good thought Brian on the pump!
  14. Hi All, I have just picked up a spare wire wheel with 205 tyre and it does not fit into the spare wheel well - unless I am doing something really daft! It seems the wider tyre does not fit under the fuel tank enough and it fouls on the boot rim. Anyone seen anything similar? Any idea what the max size tyre is? Wheel is 5.5 X 15. All the best Rob.
  15. Hi all, I was at the Haynes Motor Museum today and saw their blue TR6. I noticed it had a Kenlow Fan switch on the switch plinth - so kind of assume that this was a common period mod? The reason I ask is that I have one in my box of bits that is of no use to me at all - if any of you have such a switch and would like to retain the period mod I'd be happy to post it to you FOC - be shame for it to go to land fill if it could be of use. Ps. Thanks to Haynes for allowing their place to be used as Covid Jab centre - seemed rude not to thank them by looking around!
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.