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Motorsport Mickey

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About Motorsport Mickey

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  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. Marco is correct. If you were an experienced restorer and would enjoy the process of months and years of stripping and refurbishment all along paying out wads of money then great, carry on, that's what lots of us do. However the most fun I ever had was buying a classic that was in great condition which I could afford. Somebody else had all the problems and costs, and for the price I paid I would never managed to build it for that money. Whichever your choice, good luck, we are here whatever you decide. Mick Richards
  2. Stick the cork gasket to the alloy cover using hylomar and do not use ANY sealer on the engine surface. On that surface give the gasket a light wipe with fresh engine oil, it will allow the gasket to easily part when you wish to remove the cover. If done correctly the gasket will seal well and Remain on the rocker cover for many multiple removals and refittings. Mick Richards
  3. +1 White or Blue ? Also why was the engine rebuilt ? and “The bore was 100% round and on size as standard but had new rings fitted.” ??? Does that mean the engine when stripped had new rings fitted already ? Or did you fit the new rings ? What size new rings were fitted if by you ? Did you check the dimensions and what they were described as on the packaging ? Did you check the piston ring clearance against the piston ring grooves in the pistons… all of them ? Did you check what piston ring gap there was by sliding the piston rings into the bore and measur
  4. Thanks for the correction Kevin, yes Hex sockets. I’ve corrected my post. regards Mick
  5. Mechanic and engineers tool preference order. Single hex socket driving on the flats. Double hex socket driving on the corners. Ring spanner driving on the corners. Open ended spanner driving on the corners. . . . Obstruction wrench…Some hopeless piece of **** only used by plumbers….Lol. C’mon Rich, would you really use even an open ended spanner when you are putting 105 lb ft through it ? You can see the jaws spreading as the torque is applied ! Mick Richards
  6. Depends upon cam used Willie. Just do what a racer does. Set the tappets cold go on a nice run to get the engine nice and hot ( at least 20-30 miles). Then check the tappet settings whilst it is stinging hot and average the set of inlet tappets and the set of exhaust tappets ( some camshafts demand different settings) and make a note for when you need to do them hot. Mick Richards
  7. Never used, means never confirmed that the head converter didn’t go too far, and hole the waterway from inlet or exhaust passage. Even worse no identification means no comeback against the converter, and will the seller (to you) allow a return if the head is U/S when fitted and tested ( especially if it’s going to be a while until the car is back on the road)…care needed. Mick Richards
  8. Crikey, there is a novel on this in the search function ! click on any of the 4a/5/6 forums and type in “trailing arm studs” or “hubs” ( because the studs are prevalent there), and all the options are available to you. I could do it for you but…” teach a man to fish”. Mick Richards
  9. The attachments flanges on the tank are slotted, it’s only the body which has secured fastenings to it. The tank is designed to be a stressed member, the TR is a single skin car with the exception of the front scuttle, inner and outer sills and a and b posts. Without a tank securely fitted it compromises the across car stiffness at the rear considerably. The inner shell at the rear without outer wings and fuel tank fitted will flex if you lean heavily onto the cockpit rear deck or forward extension arms (a fitted rear backlight for the Surrey helps here markedly). So the tank needs to re
  10. That’s an option that won’t work. If these cars get hit from the rear or has a side impact which “ lozenges” the cockpit area the fuel tank, which is a stressed member ( it bolts across the car width) sometimes splits. The disrupted rear fibreboard doesn’t hold fuel back. Having 10 gallons of petrol gushing into the cockpit is not funny. You need a metal panel there welded preferably, but the motorsports association accepts an alloy panel riveted ( I use 25mm spacing for rivets) across the rear of the cockpit. You may think it won’t stand an accident but it’s what the RAC has ruled
  11. I’ve noticed the same Marco, and it’s sad such a basic and universal courtesy is being neglected. I don’t just see this on this forum though. It is across many forums on the internet, maybe an erosion of face to face courtesy caused by a screen and a keyboard. Mick Richards
  12. The tyre pressure has a major affect upon the tyre footprint under cornering forces, and that contributes to the tyre “slip” ( not skid) angles. Maximum grip under straight ahead motoring is compromised massively as soon as the steering input causes side loads to be input to the tyres. That’s why a very coarse way of changing the cars handling can be achieved by increasing or decreasing the tyre pressures. However under competition after the tyre pressures are established at optimum ( no where near the pressures commonly “recommended” by the manufacturers), by measuring the across tyre tempe
  13. If it’s in your TR4 it will be different anyway, but I used to use 36 front 34 rear in mine. It stops the tyre rolling off the wheel. Mick Richards
  14. If you are thinking of 205 tyres just be aware they’ll kill the handling of the car and put more strain on the front wishbone brackets on the chassis. Make sure yours had been reinforced and drilled for the extra bolt. Mick Richards
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