Jump to content

Motorsport Mickey

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Motorsport Mickey last won the day on April 8

Motorsport Mickey had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

48 Excellent

1 Follower

About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

Recent Profile Visitors

1,640 profile views
  1. I was always taught any offset in the gudgeon pin from the piston centreline should be set towards the major thrust side of the piston. Digging out one of my reference books "Complete Automotive Engine Rebuilding and Parts Machining by Robert Scharff, I see it confirms " A pin offset (it can be up to as much as 0.062 thou) is designed to reduce piston slap and noise that could result as the large end of the connecting rod crosses over upper dead centre," so that's what I would do also. Mick Richards
  2. This is broadly correct, although the toe in reflects the "mushy" condition of the original spec rubbers within the factory build. When replaced with new poly bushes where available the amount of toe in required can vary, however if as previewed on the existing Tyre Pressure posting if ever a truism existed it is... "altering the toe in more towards parallel from about 1/16th toe in...slower." The understeer inherent in factory build autos is essential to give balanced handling when power is applied before corners, if you go into a corner with a car under neutral handling the slightest application of power will change the handling from neutral into oversteer to a greater or lesser degree. That means slower through corners and without the same level of grip. The best bang for your buck is to get rid of Bump Steer, with suitable suspension set up it will allow you to alter your understeer/oversteer purely by alteration of the toe in. If you want a copy of my article of how to do it PM me your e mail address. Mick Richards
  3. Cor...never mind being Hamish, just call him Harpo ! lol. Practice days are better value Hamish, I used to use Mallory Park a couple of times a season running at 90% pace and altering the car settings and cross checking tyre temps to see what was going on at tarmac level. Then a couple of banzai laps to see what happened to the lap times and car feel and the most outstanding truism was if the car felt nicer...it was slower. Less understeer and the car turning into corners nicer...slower, altering the toe in more towards parallel from about 1/16th toe in...slower. To return to the thread the tyre pressures on the road should be altered accordingly to your driving taste, although if you stray too far from what the worthies at various tyre firms suggest, if involved in an accident and a forensic test picks it up you are likely to be accused of contributing to it even though your tyre pressures may be delivering superior traction and grip. Mick Richards
  4. Sprinting is an excellent introduction into motorsport. It teaches the driver pace and lines where he can work it out whilst driving and not have the distraction of cars around him or overtaking. It also allows the necessary exceeding of grip and consequential manoeuvres consistent with regaining control. Amongst these skills is finding the limit of adhesion numerous times, allowing the feeling of being "on the edge" to be logged by the driver in his memory. I fear the 55 section tyres will give you excellent grip until they go, but your reactions will have to be lightening quick whereas a 70 or 80 profile offers much more progressive breakaway and a chance to be caught by a new driver to competition. Remember...if your car corners like it is on rails...you are not driving fast enough. Mick Richards
  5. Contrary thought process works Roger, as posted on Hamish's post, "you are loosing traction by allowing the carcass to deform and decreasing the footprint which increases the slip (not skid) angles on the tyres which reduces the grip." Even on road use on a TR4 the front tyres need to be harder than rear, helps reduce the front end roll (even with anti roll bar) and stops the tyres deforming and increasing slip angles loosing grip. 28 front 26 (or 24) rear. Tr4a with it being an IRS car opposite apply 26 front 28 rear, however driving styles and preferences snooker all technical info, if you like it as is...drive it. Mick Richards
  6. Hamish, Sprinting you are about 10 lbs short, your tyres are in danger of rolling off the rims and you are loosing traction by allowing the carcass to deform and decreasing the footprint which increases the slip (not skid) angles on the tyres which reduces the grip. On road section tyres I've used up to 40 lbs and checked it with tyre temps to make sure they are equal across the width, no rolling of section.
  7. Not normally, a flitch panel is a supporting panel which fits inside a fabrication. It can be as large as a girder or C section shape, if a chassis on a truck or car was cut through, after it was butt welded back up a flitch panel or section would be welded within the chassis overlapping the butt weld strengthening the section (then typically stronger than the original section). Mick Richards
  8. Sorry Brian but I think there will be filings lurking within oilways and in the sump. I'd regard it as a small investment and drain the oil and put in new filter before new camshaft is run, and then stick with the 200 miles running and again drain off and new filter and retorque the head. Up to you what oil you want to use but I'd do all I could to get those shavings and metal slivers out, the longer inside the engine the more associated damage to bearings crankshaft etc Mick Richards
  9. "Before I discovered this problem I'd just changed the oil. I'll consider a higher zinc content oil next time! " So you are leaving the same oil and filter complete with camshaft and follower iron filings in the engine when you are just about to fit a new camshaft and new followers ? That may be taking thriftiness to unheard of levels . Mick Richards
  10. As regards new camshaft and tappet fitments it's a given that they are fitted with the correct assembly lube. That's not to say the same used in every case, I'm a strong believer in using the lube supplied or recommended by the supplying camshaft firm. You can be assured if you use a different product to that supplied or recommended and experience ANY problems with camshaft or tappets the immediate response will be "AAAaaahh that's not what we use/say and that's the reason you've got a problem". Just as using a camshaft from one supplier and cam followers from a different supplier, it's like putting 2 cats' in a barrel, "it's their fault,...no... no, it's your fault" etc... etc, entirely normal reactions from opposing firms and you are stuck in the middle, don't do it. For the record when I build ANY engine race or road I use the combined products of one camshaft supplier and also their lube or recommendation for lube, I also use a good quality oil of correct ZDDP and after 200 miles using no less than 2000 revs (strange looks are garnered at traffic lights from other road users) and no more than about 3000 revs do an oil change to remove any contaminants flushed from the engine system, and carry out a head retorque at the same time. Then refill with the same high ZDDP oil and you are good to go, whatever remains of the camshaft lube is still adhered to the camshaft just as when you stop the engine normally, and I'm sure mixes in with the high ZDDP oil. I can't honestly tell you that this is the correct way to fit camshafts and break in engines, it's the way I do it after taking various advice from firms and other builders and I've never had a camshaft or cam follower failure in multiple race engine (4 cylinder and V8) and over 20 road going 4 cylinder rebuilds. (No...I don't wear out engines quickly, but back in the 80s/90s I built a number of engines for other people/entities). Iain, Difficult to give a comparison because I've not run a roadgoing TR for some considerable time, (my everyday classic is a Stag), but when I raced a TR I used either Millers or Penrite, again because of the high ZDDP content. The Stag I used to run on common or garden 20-50 oil and Halfords was amongst the mix at oil changes. When I discovered the Classic Oils product (some years ago) and I moved onto that, the oil pressure remained at normal levels on the Stag and I never noticed a variation in pressure, not that I'm too bothered about pressure. Flow is what I demand from the engines and as long as the pressure remains broadly within the original range I'll run with it, driving is more fun than fixing. Mick Richards
  11. I'm puzzled now Roger "I am aware of no difference between the above two products but who knows what is going on underneath." Saying it as you have there is no difference between the products, yet the picture of the Classic Oils container shows it quite clearly, " c1300 ppm expressed as Zinc in the ZDDP" whereas the Halfords (and Comma) products are acknowledged by the Halfords specification (which has been enquired about many times before, because they don't quote it otherwise) when questioned as being circa 700ppm expressed as Zinc in the ZDDP. That's as much as a difference (nearly 100% more) in the Classic Oil Heritage Zinc amounts at 1300ppm which has always been acknowledged as being one of the main anti scuff ingredients (important for our flat tappet engines) available to manufacturers to avoid scuffing and camshaft/tappet wear. That was one of the reasons I decided to move onto the Classic Oil product 3 years ago. Previously the oil manufacturers high Zinc specification (almost all oils had it) has been proved by 60 plus years of "in use" testing. Whereas these days it's a common thread amongst the older car fraternity to experience advanced camshaft and tappet wear on the newer oils...hhmmmm. Mick Richards
  12. Halfords has about 700 PPM Zinc in it's ZDDP, (same as Comma) recommended amount is between 1100 and max of 1400Zinc in it's ZDDP, I don't know if that's why you have your problem but it's why I don't use it anymore. Mick Richards
  13. 'ita vero'...if you say so. Mick Ricgards
  14. "Stricto sensu" ... love it, which other car forum exists where you can stray into Latin and have people understand what you mean. Mick Richards
  15. Yes ok Monty, just remember if only 2 tyres are being fitted, to fit to the rear so you may have to swap around. Mick Richards
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.