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Motorsport Mickey

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About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

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  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. Motorsport Mickey

    H frame foam - filler?

    Take care to read the instructions on the foam aerosol, I used cavity building foam and from memory it requires water to be present to fully activate the foaming agent. I misted the interior of my TR7 wings with water before spraying them with the foam for crash protection, and it reacted like crazy with it, fully expanded filling in spaces and adhering to panels, After 48 hours I just cut off the excess which protruded from the various holes and seals with the missus's carving knife. If it isn't fully reacted it WILL continue to react as it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere or gets rained on which could be weeks or months later. A fellow competitor had sprayed the foam into his wings without spraying previously with water and every time I saw him that season his wings were taking on a different shape ! finally ending up with a series of stress wrinkles across the surface of the glass fibre wings as it tried to expand the outer wings from the inner shell. Mick Richards
  2. Motorsport Mickey

    Running badly - any ideas?

    Bad air leak on the inlet manifold bleeding air in. Mick Richards
  3. Motorsport Mickey

    TR2/3 FIA Ally tonneau?

    From memory Roger the safety regulations have moved on since ally tonneau covers were used. I seem to remember a Motosports regulation requiring the edge of any hard tonneau being a set distance from the drivers neck helping prevent a severe injury in event of a serious accident and violent driver movement. If it's been changed perhaps a current competitor can put us right on that. Mick Richards
  4. Motorsport Mickey

    Alloy 2

    Somebody who can turn out promised work to schedule and In a reasonable time frame ? I guess you’d have to use the search facility on this site to see which firms have feedback that suggests they could do that consistently. Why not start with the above ? Mick Richards
  5. Motorsport Mickey


    Rich, I suggest it may be better to drop Tony the PM yourself with your e mail address, and delete your e mail from this post. All forums are patrolled with flocks of Autobot computers from hackers harvesting the e mails from those who expose them in the open. regards Mick Richards
  6. Motorsport Mickey

    Alloy 2

    I asked if they could do a body shell in all alloy, including the inner structure. They said sure, and a wire transfer was made to get the process going. 1 2 3 PrevNext About 120 days later, a shiny TR shell showed up, …. are we sure this was North Devon Metalcraft ? Mick Richards
  7. Motorsport Mickey

    I'm getting too fat....need stiffer springs.....

    ….Holy Moley ! … Mick Richards
  8. Motorsport Mickey

    Liege-Brescia-Liege TR Register Rally

    Good press coverage on TRs for his years event https://www.telegraph.co.uk/cars/classic/join-liege-brescia-liege-classic-road-rally/ Mick Richards
  9. In the snow of a late night winter I started my works Sierra with a flat battery by using our commercial workshops twin slave batteries inadvertently connected up for 24v operation...when I disconnected the clamps from the battery posts it sparked blew the end off the battery ! I ended up throwing handfuls of snow into the engine compartment to water down the acids. I realise this is an exaggerated case but ever since I've used the earth connection to the bodywork where possible, otherwise you have to use the battery posts. Micky
  10. Motorsport Mickey

    Weber 42’s on ebay

    Just reading this Weber info from an article As an aside, the prefix number on the DCOE is the diameter of the throttle plate (the throttle bore) in mm; DC means "doppio corpo" (double throat); O means "orizzontale (horizontal); E means it is a die cast carburetor; and the number or number and letter suffix is the variation type. Except there seems to be several variations to most variation suffixes. You want to be very sure that the DCOEs you purchase are indeed matched pairs with matching progression holes. You will never get two DCOEs to work together properly if they are different variations. I don't know enough about Webers myself to easily check these on the bay but there is quite a distance between the carb numbers showing so I would confirm they are a matched pair and not just two separate webers. Mick Richards
  11. Motorsport Mickey

    Triumphtune front springs

    + 1 with Bob. The worrying thing is that a retail organisation selling bits for TRs can think that a damper which only works because it's attached at either end and rubber mounted can affect bump steer ! It would make me question how deep their expertise is in other areas. As long as the damper cannot inhibit the suspension or steering movement it can't affect bump steer...I've never yet seen one that could. The bump steer was built in originally by Triumph, they didn't do correct geometry...just cheap, it was their marketing platform and for many years it worked, however the integral failings can be sorted with just a little of your application and about £1 spent in shim steel...how reasonable does it get ? ( and why didn't Triumph build them correctly ?). If you or any other TR owner wants a small artical I've written on the subject complete with a " how to " on your TR just drop me a PM with your e mail address on it, and I'll forward it. Just to be clear, removing the bump steer will give you the best, cheapest more bang for your buck handling modification to the TR ...bar non. Multiple piston brake callipers with vented discs and race material disc pads costing £1200 as used in racing TRs...must have it, Magnesium wheels costing £1400 as used in racing TRs...essential, Roller rockers which cost £400 and nobody knows you have, they can't even see them, used in racing TRs...to die for, Sorting your bump steer to cure many of your handling problems and as used in ALL racing TRs and EVERY race car that needs to win and will cost you £1 and you can sort it yourself...err what's bump steer again ? Drop me a PM, like over 150 other TR owners have done and when I explain bump steer to you it will become apparent why the dampers don't affect bump steer. Mick Richards
  12. Motorsport Mickey

    Cylinder head

    Looks like a 4a head, valves out and bead blast the whole caboodle before anything else to expose cracks. Then measure using Terrianns TR head website with excellent info on it as to where to measure from so you can get an idea what's left and of course how aggressive you want to go with it. Here it is http://www.tr3a.info/FAQ_heads.htm The figure is 3.330 as standard (doesn't say from where) measure with Vernier from the head face and see which area is measurable and comes about that area, then measure from there. If it was a race head .170 off is not unusual and still useable but of course making a high compression unless the chambers are dug out to reduce it. Mick Richards
  13. Motorsport Mickey

    Impact Driver

    Certainly NEVER use an impact driver to do the final tightening on wheels, always a torque wrench, but if you're having wheels off and tyres fitted at a tyre centre good luck with banning them from using impact wrenches to remove the wheels. A commercial organisation will always use the quickest methods, unless you are using fragile nuts (and if so should you be using them ?) they should come off easily with minor impact application. Triumph standard OEM nuts are good quality and should not be affected. Mick Richards
  14. Motorsport Mickey

    Camshaft refitting

    No dumb questions David, ask away as they come to mind...Oh trust no one, measure everything yourself, then you know. Mick Richards
  15. Motorsport Mickey

    Camshaft refitting

    They don't, the asymmetric action (off centre) helps the camfollowers to rotate as they travel up and down, that's normal. On the other hand take the opportunity to check the crankshaft for straightness as you fit it. Place the crank onto the oiled bearing mains of the block, WITHOUT CAPS and measure the run out with a DTI on each main journal as you spin it. With luck each journal will run true, then bolt the centre main bearing cap on by hand just nipping it, and measure the run out again on the front and rear mains journal. As each journal continues to run true nip up the mains caps on each (don't mix the caps up !), then if all is well torque up the caps SINGLY to the full torque amount, and spin the crank with your fingers, it should spin easily on the oiled bearings. I measure the turning torque by using a small torque wrench that measures torque in inches per foot or if you don't have one use fishermens scales and a socket "T" bar with the bar pulled across to one side. I think all sets are made with the square drive to bar inset ball bearing at 12" spacing, set your scales at the end next to the ball bearing and vvwwwalluh you have a lbs or oz or grams whichever you prefer per foot scale. The turning amount for each journal isn't initially important, you are looking for an incremental increase in torque (which is drag) for the crankshaft as you torque each main journal cap which is in line with the first journal ie 31 grams -64 grams - 96 grams which shows the drag is incrementally increasing as you turn the crank...ie the crank is straight. Bottom line is the when torqued up as per Workshop manual the crank should spin with purely your finger action on the nose... BSF...(British Standard Fingers) equates to about 1/3rd of 1 lb ft (well mine do anyway). Mick Richards Ooops...Ian beat me to the post because of my loose lips.

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