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Motorsport Mickey

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Motorsport Mickey last won the day on November 4

Motorsport Mickey had the most liked content!

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About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

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  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. Try reading the reviews for an insight on how they perform, lots of complaints on a variety of other outside "canvas" garages of heavy condensation, just what most people are trying to avoid. Here's one https://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/yaf_postst105504_Machine-Mart-Clarke-Garage-problem.aspx Mick Richards
  2. Well done to Bailey and also to you Dave for the encouragement you've given him. He impressed me at Donnington at the Swinging 60s race the other week, he applied himself to the jobs he'd been set and completed them before coming back for a chat with us "old uns". I'm sure he'll have a great time with you and look forward to seeing you both around the circuits. Mick Richards
  3. I thought this was a great car until I saw the rust on the chassis and on the underfloor panels from the footwells backwards. Very strange the front underfloor and chassis to just behind the front wheels is well presented (although I wouldn't bet it's just been sprayed on over rust), I just can't work out who would do that or take pictures of it and put it for sale ! Mick Richards
  4. Hi Rich, Sent an hour ago, check your PM list to make sure you are not full capacity. Mick Richards
  5. Polizi... ...... well know you know lol. Mick Richards
  6. Don, You have a PM, check out the envelope on top of the page, have a read. Mick Richards
  7. Lol, there is another web page at the bottom John posted where he said "the stooge" may not be ok for convertibles and then posted the webpage to Fuugo who are offering one of the Dancover models you've posted 18 posts later. For avoidance of confusion. https://www.fruugo.co.uk/folding-garage-car-26x58x21-m-grey/p-37946499-77636965?language=en&ac=croud&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI74-3jdzV5QIVmLPtCh1eiQiFEAQYBiABEgLZafD_BwE Mick Richards
  8. Given that what Roger suggested is the same as what JohnD suggested 27 minutes after your thread posting, (it's even the same brand "Dancover") in the FIRST reply, about 18 postings ago, what has changed in your thinking, that now makes it a "possibility" ? We've only got a finite amount of life left ! Mick Richards
  9. Jochem is on the mark "Tests are mostly subjective since the owner wants to feel an improvement, even when it is not there. It sucks to spend money on so called uprated brakes and not noticing any difference. So one convinces themselves there is an improvement. Mick Richards
  10. ^ + 1 Marco. A doubling down of the wrong way to go...in my honest opinion. I smile to myself when I remember that I a won the 1987 TR Championship with standard discs and standard road pads that cost me £ 1.50 a set. ! I was a spendthrift, I used a set a race meeting ( but that covered practice as well, I'm not made of money !) using Pirelli P6 tyres. Do we really think normal road drivers on public roads need better brakes than those pads offered when they are used for 10 lap sprint races. ? I 'm still using the same make of pads...I bought in bulk.in 1986. Mick Richards
  11. As posted by myself on Oct 29th With relation to the information given by your Stammtisch friend Robert...we agree. "I think the Green stuff pads are too temperature sensitive, from cold "wooden" is a good description yet if you can bring the temperature up and then maintain it by "drag" braking (slight early application to warm them up) they do work "somewhat " better, but if you get on a motorway for 4 or 5 miles at cruising speeds and then have to jump on them your heart will be in your mouth whilst they try and warm again." Some of the most frightening experiences I've had was when I went out on the public roads in my race car (legally complying in all respects) but with competition brake pads, and a traffic build up caused me to brake hard within 200 metres of starting the drive. Because I was aware of the brake pad compromise I had allowed ample extra braking distance and was glad I had...having to work hard to stop the car. After a kilometre of "dragging the pads" and building up the heat the competition pads were at about 70% of their performance expected but always with the thought in mind that they needed warmth. Not something I like doing on a road car, they helped me decide on the Mintex on being a good compromise. And your second question "Relative or absolute with the Mintex 1144? "Always a contentious area for owners, I used Mintex 1144s on the race car with standard discs and got a good pedal from cold and an even better pedal throughout the races." As classic car owners we are guilty of trying to obtain the ultimate from our cars in every function...yet use them in ways where that ultimate will only rarely (if that) be achieved. We rebuild the engine and try to achieve levels of excellence far in excess of that achieved when the car was built new, even though the mileage covered by the cars as classics may only be 1/10th of that expected originally, wasted effort and money.The compromising of an everyday cars braking performance because we insist that we want the brakes to be as good as when used on lap10 of track performance is a similar conceit. "Don't let the perfect be an enemy of the good". Mick Richards
  12. It's worse than you think. I went and measured the Temp and humidity in my well ventilated garage this week 11 deg and 97% Relative Humidity at 2pm, now feed that info into this Dew point calculator https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/dew-point 0.5 yes half a degree drop that's all it would take to "trip" the dew point... at 4pm the temp had fallen to 9.5 deg and there was condensation forming on the underneath of the bodyshell floor so the car is going into the Carcoon (only an indoor model...cost £240 e bay used (not very) inside the garage this weekend. If you have an attached garage to the house with low level heating and the temps can be controlled to minimise overnight temp drops from say 12 degs maybe a couple of degrees or the humidity can be reduced through dehumidifying to the 60 % area through the night hours you can stop the dew point forming and condensation forming. However heating a garage unless part of the main house costs a lot, or running a dessicant dehumidifier (about 650w, needed so it doesn't freeze if the temp gets near to freezing) will take a lot of money. Easier and cheaper to stick it in a Carcoon and pay less than the cost of a good meal for 2 for a years running. Mick Richards
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