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Motorsport Mickey

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About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

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    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. It isn't an obvious question Phil because I tried it without the tube...they are like greased pigs ! at least fitting the tube gives them semblance of being solid matter and not out of Ghostbusters ! Tube fitted makes it reasonably easy. Mick Richards
  2. Hi Mark, Can't you spare 20 minutes from your life to ensure your engine is bedded in and the camshaft doesn't lose it's knobbly bits within the first couple of thousand miles ? There is no downside from you running at 2000 revs (or thereabouts for 20 mins) the oil pump won't drop to bits, and the rest of the engine will be happy. Over the last 10 years or so we've had many rebuilt cars with new cams lose the cams and followers in a very short time, why is that ? why when rebuilding engines in the same way as been practiced over the last 30-40 years suddenly and for no good reason, are the cams are made of cheese and the cam followers made of putty ? They aren't are they ? the suppliers have continued using their same materials and practices as previously which have given good results and reliability. So what else has changed ? Well the oil manufacturers have discovered that "full fat "ZDDP which was previously regarded as essential for the declining numbers of old car engines but unfortunately poisons newer cars with Catalytic convertors, can now be substituted with new additives and a "my little pony" amount of ZDDP that doesn't affect the many hundreds of thousands of new cars with their "cats" giving them a lucrative and enormous market. Who'd have thought it ? The 50 or 60 years of empirical evidence of all sorts of "flat tappet" engines that many TR and Classic car owners have of ZDDP being the "bees knees" in anti scuff with a side order of "don't you dare destroy my cam" and engines that have run happily and reliably has been put aside, and replaced with ZDDP that has been "optimised" (cordialized) to reduced numbers. It isn't hard Mark, use a ZDDP heavy (1300 parts Zinc in the ZDDP) oil and run for 20 mins at 2000 or thereabouts (2500 revs won't hurt it, it's just noisier !), and if Newnam cams are correct (now) that won't have done any damage either. Heads you win...tails you win - what's not to like ? Mick Richards
  3. Aldi have a grip socket complete with wrench for it, in now in my local store. Mick Richards
  4. I haven't a TR6 but does it have the steering lock collar restrictors to prevent excess lock, these are set separately each side, could one have moved ?and does it have the front lower wishbone bracket reinforcement on the inner chassis edge to prevent it breaking away. Mick Richards Edit: Just did a check on the search box (excellent facility, everyone should use it) and found this thread about the lower wishbone mount) https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/67392-fitting-lower-wishbone-bracket-strengtheners/&tab=comments#comment-600174 Part numbers 15 and 16 it has a range quoted of TR2 to 4a so it may be the TR6 had it done at the factory but I'd be checking that area for it's efficacy.
  5. That tool shown by Peter is useful in combination with the two hammers one either side of the "eye". Apply the tool and just put a couple of turns onto the centre bolt of the tie rod which has had the nut undone down to the nyloc but still in place, and the tie rod has tension on it. Then striking one hammer against the tie rod with the other hammer held behind it with your hand, the "temporal malformation" (the ripple through the Tie rod taper caused by the hammer impact through the molecular structure of the taper) allows the two tapers to spring apart breaking the "ringing effect" the two tapers induce, keeping them clamped together. The tension induced by the tool encourages the parting of the tapers. Mick Richards
  6. This Stag supplier has a very good name amongst Stag owners (me too), he has the somewhat radical tactic of supplying parts he's fitted to his own Stag, and if they don't work...he don't sell them ! http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=ex&page=111&sid=sid7de73e47a6fc3d1ff82f5908ed054fb4 Always my first port of call for Stag bits. Mick Richards
  7. I'm the local witch doctor, son They call me George Alfred Black Now tell me, what's your trouble, boy My boomerang won't come back Your boomerang won't come back My boomerang won't come back My boomerang won't come back I've waved the thing all over the place Practiced till I was black in the face (The things you can't say these days) I'm a big disgrace to the Aborigine race My boomerang won't back Don't worry, boy I know the trick And to you, I'm gonna show it If you want your Boomerang to come back Well, first you've got to throw it Mick Richards
  8. You may find you have an inlet manifold leak which is bleeding off the over bridge vacuum where the needle and jet is situated(which sucks up the fuel into the carb) in max revs constant running over 5 secs or more which will lean it out, worth a check. Mick Richards
  9. Hi Quim, you have a PM. Mick Richards
  10. (why is it not showing the manically laughing emoji ?) Mick Richards
  11. Nice work from our continental friends, the slightly different approach and engineering around the various challenges will bring about very interesting developments and the result will allow many of us to adopt or buy from them if it is marketed. We are all getting to the age where a reduced clutch pedal pressure and betterment of reliability of the clutch operation will be appreciated by many. Mick Richards
  12. I’m with Alan, no brainier, “ less distinct gasket impression” I don’t suppose it’s between 3 and 4 is it ? If so that’s why the head gasket blow. Mick Richards
  13. "a measurement from an easily identifiable datum please? " TR4 chassis diagram with measurements attached... number 41 I believe from the front spring pin dia where it goes through the chassis to the centre of axle = 18" or 45.72cm. Make it easy and measure from centre of the pin to the leading edge of the axle tube and add on half of the tube dia. Mick Richards TR4 Chassis drawing.docx
  14. Err...measuring from the rear axles centre forwards ? don't assume the axle is affixed in the correct place or angle without checking. Mick Richards
  15. Nope, although deduction says there is a difference either in the camshaft lobe centre grinding positioning ( maybe offset some thousanths more than others) which causes less circular “encouragement” of the followers, or the block camshaft holes are marginally tighter on some holes. You could measure the offending follower positions in the block but I’m sure they will be within a thou, or polish the cam followers trying to lose some tenths of thous and ease their turning. So I think I would do what you are considering. Mick Richards
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