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Motorsport Mickey

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Motorsport Mickey last won the day on January 14

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About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

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  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. If that OAT antifreeze can do that to a Wellseal coated steelgasket I'm going to continue and go nowhere near it ! Thanks Andrew. Mick Richards
  2. " beware of the high pressure area extending forwards from the base of the windscreen, that's why car manufacturers fit heater inlet vents there, they get fed with a pressured air feed into the heater which helps flow out. "When the car is in use that outward going air is compromised by the high pressure area from the windscreen which battles with it trying to stuff it back in !" I guess the manufacturers and myself are in complete accord ! Mick Richards
  3. Were those fitted with Wellseal ? Mick Richards
  4. Hi Stuart, Oh yes those slots will be helping. The slots at the front and into the middle are in a major low pressure area, the air sweeping up from the front apron turbulates (I think I just made that word up ) as it changes direction from a 45 degree up to a linear flow along the bonnet extracting the hot area behind the radiator as the air is pushed through. The slots along the bonnet continue and extract heat from the headers before the rear slot section becomes compromised by any high pressure from the screen, but those slots at the rear will help remove heat when the car is standing. Mick Richards
  5. Yeah, that’s something like. If it was mine I’d be looking to position them maybe a couple of inches forward from your markings, making sure you don’t catch any residue of high pressure. But not a million miles off, the TR7 high pressure stretched forward 15” from the screen ! Mick Richards
  6. Hi Hamish, As Ian says you have to beware of the high pressure area extending forwards from the base of the windscreen, that's why car manufacturers fit heater inlet vents there, they get fed with a pressured air feed into the heater which helps flow out. The old trick with the sidescreen cars of spacing the bonnet hinge fitments upwards by maybe 1 inch does help when the car is stationary allowing hot air to seep out and the upward tilt of the bonnet at the rear feeds the air rearwards to it. When the car is in use that outward going air is compromised by the high pressure area from the windscreen which battles with it trying to stuff it back in ! If you are racing with aeroscreens (can't remember) that obviously compromises the now missing windscreen high pressures area swinging it across to one side and reducing it's forward spread (lower screen probably at a more aggressive angle) which will help. As regards the louvres I would "eye up" your existing bonnet fitment and have them fitted just inside the pressline with the rear edge of them around 8" from the across car ridge which has your 2 slots in it. I have an excellent 4 slot bonnet for sale if you or anybody else wants it to help the engine compartment cooling. Underneath the car if you fit an engine compartment undertray from front scuttle rearwards that will help the airflow greatly and if you finish it a couple of inches in front of the rear of engine compartment firewall and shape the end downwards it will cause a low pressure area and help extract the hot engine compartment air out underneath and rearwards. Mick Richards
  7. We've got some Forum members who are excellent gearbox builders and upgrading, and there are fully uprated gearboxes including overdrives being offered at present, but maybe too early for you until you have better ideas on what costs you're into with the engine. Mick Richards
  8. It's gone up in price ! now £19.95 for 5 litre. Don't worry too much about oil pressure, the TRs like flow, some oils are marketed on increasing oil pressure, if it's a problem I'd rather fix it mechanically. https://www.classic-oils.net/Classic-Oils-Heritage-20W50 Order 5 x 5 litre and get free delivery from their off line website. Mick Richards
  9. Wow...that car and engine has been brutalised. The presence of rust on various areas of the crank and especially upon the upper areas of the connecting rods (between the crankshaft and where they connect underneath the pistons, normally an area where it gets oils splashed but no water) suggests the engine has been running with water mixed into the oil which after the engine has stopped and the oil content has drained off has left moisture upon the internals to rust. Also rust showing upon the bottom of the cylinder liner bores (I think) suggests maybe that's where it came into the sump (there are internal Figure of 8 gaskets (Fo8) which seal the oily bits from the watery bits) where the gaskets may have leaked, but the supposition could be wrong which can't be judged until stripped. It's likely that removal of the components will be difficult and for a "new start" TR owner and a little hard core for "entry level mechanicing" and will be a little scary, but we can support and take it one step at a time. I would try and make a decision whether the engine is seized on the bores where piston meets engine liner (quite possibly) but it's also possible that the clutch plate is stuck to the flywheel or the gearbox has an internal problem so the engine and gearbox are linked together locked in gear. Trying to turn the engine is then trying to turn the back wheels and move the car forward...not going to happen. I would... 1) Remove the bonnet (for access) and then the radiator. Strip all ancillary components off the engine you can get to carburettors and inlet manifold 2) Use the frozen engine to your advantage and loosen (by undoing) the front crankshaft dog bolt where it comes through the front of the engine and the pulley carrying the fan belt. The crankshaft bolt is supposed to be tightened to high torque figures and it's easier to break the torque now rather than when the engine is on the floor. You will likely need 6 sided socket which drives on the flats (the bolt head has rounded corners) rather than a 12 sided point drive socket and a large breaker bar or even a heavy duty impact drive gun (like used in tyre shops) this one below is very well priced and will give a very powerful breaking force that will remove anything you can get it onto. Leave the bolt undone but fitted where it is until further work is done as itemised below. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench/ You must use heavy duty impact sockets and not standard sockets, the impact motion will split and destroy the standard sockets, this impact driver comes with 4 sockets but you will have to buy a socket to fit the bolt head, from memory it's 1 1/8 th across the flats. 3) Remove the engine and gearbox complete from the car. You will need a heavy winch capable of a lift of at least 400 kgs and an overhead beam or lifting crane capable of 1 ton capacity lift (equal and opposite force to the 400 kgs which you are lifting, 1 ton rounded up.) You will need to lift the engine and gearbox out at an angle (about 60 deg) to clear the front of the car. If you don't have these capabilities support the rear of the engine and remove the interior gearbox tunnel and take out the gearbox (and overdrive if fitted, they are heavy but you can leave them inside the car (seats and other bits removed). Then lift out the engine itself (lots lighter probably 250kg) which will the lift nearly vertically without tilting (not much anyway), then drop engine on the floor and remove cylinder head (heavy) tilt the engine onto it's side and start working from underneath stripping out the con rods and crank, we'll talk later. Mick Richards
  10. That sounds like it has "micro bubbling in the paint. If the bubbles are just 1mm or thereabouts dia it's unlikely they contain water (try to prick one in an out of the way position). If it is it's likely a respray to correct it is needed. I'm afraid I've gone off having a close fitting cover of any description against the painted surfaces, I've heard a few professional restorers now say that it traps moisture against the surface of the panel which can cause the micro bubbling. Now I have the car inside a Carcoon inside the garage over winter, it comes out in late March with bright discs and panels and no reaction. Mick Richards
  11. The Stag power steering rack is a problematic unit, if you peruse the Stag forum you will find many...I mean many, reports on different steering rack suppliers and different various repair kits. They can be rebuilt successfully but given the ball ache to remove it (sometimes involves cutting through exhaust downpipes on the headers (it did on mine) when aftermarket tubular headers are fitted, I would fit new pump pipes also. The most reliable supplier of refurbished power steering racks seems to be LD Stag parts who has a good reputation, and I fitted his refurbed rack from memory about £125. http://www.ldpart.co.uk/shop/shop.php?c=ex&page=111&sid=sid37fb67aa1aace67c6c5d112d368aee66 Yes you can rebuild yourself but after the rebuild kit costs (I think about £24 from memory) the idea of the massive labour content to get the rack out (front crossmember removal also) makes you think another £100 is a pretty decent price to avoid the 5 hours (that's what it took me, on my scissor lift and that doesn't count welding up the exhaust pipe again !) labour involved for a straightforward change over, if the rack isn't reliable ! Mick Richards
  12. Do you want a lifetime out of it after rebuilding ? Fit your choice of NEW camshaft and followers (both from the same supplier) and also using the suppliers recommended cam lube. Break in by running the engine at NO LESS than than 2000 revs for at least 20 mins, if you can do it use a rolling road and tell the operator what you want so he can load the engine and watch the revs. (probably about £50). Or as alternative if using the public roads, take an emergency tool kit with you, phone and with spare oil and water and trying to use motorway (if easily accessible) or low traffic B roads with little traffic lights in place and keep those revs between 2000 and 3000 until you notch up about 200 miles. At traffic lights keep the 2000 lower limit, (ignore public curious glances). The cam then should be broken in and can be driven normally (don't forget the cylinder head retorque before 500 miles comes up (I do it straight away after the 200 mile break in). There is a possibility after checking the camshaft to make sure lifts and condition is ok (number 4 and 5 cam followers are looking doubtful also) of fitting just a set of new cam followers with cam lube and follow the above procedure and all may be ok. There are varying opinions that say the 200 mile distance at 2000 revs or 20 minute time break ins are not required, and if you feel that is correct ...well it's for you to decide. Mick Richards
  13. The upside down casting dimensions say a maximum of 230mm or 9". Mick Richards
  14. That's good news Mike but as posted by myself and others you can't just bolt it in and use it. The outer bearing cap dimension may need altering to allow it to "nip" in to the dimension of the block locations (it should not be just a drop in) and then the cap needs checking to confirm it will present the bearing in line with the others so the crank is supported neither being "nipped" nor pushed the crank out of line. As pointed out it is likely to need align boring to ensure the crank runs true and without stresses. Mick Richards
  15. "I'll position those to be used as cylinder 1 (best cooled) and cylinder 4 (hottest)." Hmmm nope...try again parallel thinking required. Mick Richards
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