Motorsport Mickey

David, Just cut through the c r a p, (ha, fooled the "my little pony" censuring suite) why not buy a workshop manual ? almost everything is attributed torque figures there. You'll find it invaluable. Mick Richards

Crikey, the work is being carried out here "at pace". I've just caught up since looking in on the last day of the old year, and the chassis is shotblasted and painted ! I was hoping to see chassis set up on a flat floor and checked for straightness and twist, all very important for the best result when the detailed work as itemised is being attended to. Did I miss the chassis checking or is it a section not yet posted ? Mick Richards

Hi Pinky, You say your engine isn't over the cross beams, does that mean your beams are the hinged swivelling arms which can be swung around onto the chassis ? Otherwise you should be able to "hutch" loose crossbeams which are placed straight across from ramp to ramp underneath the engine itself. You say the lift is bouncy, do you mean "end to end " ? Mick Richards

Larry, This thread is from the middle of 2023, so likely well sorted by now. These core plugs will have been in place since the 1970s so a 50 + years life isn't tooooo bad. Easy to get at and replace even with the engine in place, then just make sure the anti freeze content is correct as per the instructions on the bottle, probably 30% will do UK climate well enough. Mick Richards

Clive, Did the start of this lean running problem co incident with removing the inlet manifold ? Perhaps for you to do some other work. It’s very easy to get the inlet manifold “ hung up” on one side on the short inlet location dowels that stick out of the head in between the inlet holes. This problem makes the mixture dramatically weak on that 1 carb, as it sucks air in from between the carb body and the inlet manifold. But loses a lot of piston lift because it gives hardly any vacuum over the carb “ bridge” which carries the jet. Normally car doesn’t want to start but can be

Has anybody got an additive to help preserve the unused portion of Stabil so we can store it until next year ? Mick Richards

A very reasonable price for a great looking car. Hope you and your wife enjoy it for years. Mick and Margaret Richards

Phil, You'll find the firewall can actually help the across car stiffness, but it does need the rivets to be about 25-50mm spacing. Did you run out ? Mick Richards

Jerry, The TR7 along with it's family relatives Dolomite Sprint etc, has a poor rear axle location. The axle is located by rear trailing arms which carry the rear springs fixed to the rear of cockpit firewall, it's attempt at rear axle location is to use shorter than trailing arm radius arms also fixed too the rear of cockpit firewall and they connect mid way between dff and rear trailing arm location points to the axle. It definitely benefits from positive axle location, my race car TR7V8 had an A frame with large spherical bearing and a 5/8"th (from memory) Unbrako capbolt throug

It might just be me, but I find the colour of this car...beguiling. I think it's white, but on my lap top screen, it has a definite hint of Pink blush. I'm almost sold on having a TR4 sprayed in it ! Mick Richards

And preferably the same day, within a number of hours to minimise temperature and pressure differentials. Mick Richards

I'm joining in too ! Have a great day Roger...Happy Birthday. Mick and Margaret Richards

Keith, You have a PM, check above in the envelope section. Mick Richards

Hamish, What revs are you limiting to ? Do you use "flash" limiting (ie hitting the limiter and changing gear ?) or do you hold it on the limiter ? Is this only on the 1 piston,? I'd crack test the lands on the others whilst you have it stripped down, given that the deck heights will be the same on all, why is this piston the only one to go ? When I've experienced lands collapsing it's been on 87mm cast pistons where ALL have experienced either "nipping" of the rings by collapsing lands or cracking showing on all 4 piston lands. I know the forged pistons are more expensive, b

Try warming the headlamp lens with a hairdrier…gently, only needs enough to feel the warmth in the glass. It will expand the air inside and hopefully push the moisture out with it. It should get you through an MOT. Mick Richards