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Motorsport Mickey

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About Motorsport Mickey

  • Birthday 08/30/1950

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Profile Information

  • Location
    Nottinghamshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Enjoying my cars, TR 4 and Triumph Stag, Caravanning...oh yes,
    Building race engines and developing interesting developments of them, and all engineering achievments,
    Cars owned TR3a, now gone
    TR4 Racer, now sold
    TR7V8 Racer, now sold
    TR4 just entering full rebuild

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  1. Hi Graham, I believe these studs are like T bolts with a flat head which was encased in the mould when the frame was cast. I had a similar repair to do on one in my backlight. I had my favourite body man dig out the remains which were mangled and spinning and replace with a stud with a nut welded on the end, then alloy welded into position, he said it welded ok. Mick Richards
  2. Thanks Rob, it certainly eats up the lengths going around the frames and doors ! Mick Richards
  3. That's good news Iain, you've not mentioned but the engine will need a head retorque if not already done. Normally recommended at 500 miles but I always do it at anything over 200 miles. Mick Richards
  4. Thought not, not on mine. Stuart can you recommend the best supplier for the Furflex or rubber door trim, and how much to go around the windscreen and then the Surry backlight and frame, am I right in thinking 6 metre ? Mick Richards
  5. Hi Joe, Yes the TR4 was the original fitment for the Surrey and it's backlight. The forward arms for the TR4 are wider in the area of the second fixing, the first fixing is a threaded stud which screws into the top of the B post and a nut used to fix it down, and it has a small shaped (maybe 8" tall by 3" wide) plate which tucks into the window rubber trim hiding the screw and nut from view. The second stud fits into it's hole in the wider forward arm area (the TR4 has the the skinny rib build it yourself hood with emaciated sticks which doesn't need the extra scallop out of the forw
  6. Hi Joe, The rear deck alloy trims which cover up the rear of cockpit edge need removing. Access is sometimes tight (especially if you fitted the alloy firewall I keep recommending behind the fibreboard in front of the petrol tank) but the nuts are accessible from underneath the rear deck. If you have a TR4a when you place the rear backlight over the rear deck edge you'll find the 2nd backlight stud each side doesn't have anything to go into on the rear deck ! The 4a and 5 models with the larger frames for the hood needed that area to fold into, and so the forward arm sections of the
  7. Engine and gearbox Castings or heavy frame items (axle casings) Letter stamp initials and postcode in out of the way location. Wings doors and tubs engrave (cheap on e bay) the same on inside panelwork. A shame we have to go such a route but protect yourselves. Mick Richards
  8. You should contact http://www.johnmacnab.co.uk/ from memory they say they can straighten to within .0005 Thou, so you can reckon it may well be a couple of 1/10s below that even. Michael I've had a couple of EN16 standard TR cranks bend when hardened, the worst was a 10 thou bend from centre bearing to the nose. I returned it to the suppliers and it came back with 0... that is zero runout on the bearing surface (still at the agreed dia undersize), I had to check my DTI (clock) I thought it was broken ! (no idea of the engineers used for this). Mick Richards
  9. Let me explain... it’s the car that makes the difference... if you want to win. I agree that finishing mid field is more fun, ...and cheaper. Mick Richards.
  10. I'd forgotten whose car it was Mark otherwise I'd have given you a credit for the photos, I'm just approaching this panels replacement myself and welding the hump in. Did you weld petrol tank securing nuts to the outside rear fitting lip (worthwhile mod to keep them inboard away from corrosion) or weld to a strip and then spot onto the panel ? Mick Richards
  11. Hi Tom, Yes, I searched and found the thread some answers for you, I understand Steve owns a press tool refurbishment firm so handily placed for this exercise, the tool materials were purchased by himself (not inconsiderable, an idea is shown in the thread), and by using non priority time in house and utilising apprenticeship training (using it as a project) the costs were kept down. The panel material used was CR4 with a 1.2mm (18 gauge, as per ST) thickness. and you were correct regarding tonnage used (I said it was from memory (it was mid 2017), it's quoted as starting at 28
  12. Having worked for a commercial Truck Sales Main Dealer the going rate for a 6x4 Artic in 2 pack with front bonnet and wings removed and a full chassis colour change and with wheels off was in the 2.5 K area. Now I know that car expectations can be greater but my customers included Blue chip and Council (pain in the ass, who always added to the spec after agreeing contract) and you did not get away with shoddy workmanship and poor results. I should try some other shops or ask for recommendations from the forum. Mick Richards
  13. For those who didn't see one or how Steve made them One of these (yes that's the weight chalked on it) When machined and looking like this And it's complimentary male partner completed When loaded into a press with an 18 gauge sheet clamped between them and 65 Tons (from memory) applied, lets you turn out one of these (the heel board is a separate piece) Having spent my toolroom apprenticeship making such items I can tell you this is llluuuvvveeerrrrllllyy. Mick Richards
  14. "It also allows the engine to run a touch cooler, whatever any of the keyboard scientists say." Well I'm not a scientist, but those of us who ARE scientists say that water carries more heat away from surfaces than Glycol OR Evans waterless (which is mainly glycol) ergo water cools more effectively than all other coolant aids and the engine WILL run colder with water. Also many tuning firms who specialise in rolling road work where engines DO get run to the limits of their heat envelope say they WON'T run cars with Evans or other "waterless" coolants, and that a water and normal anti
  15. Yes , car manufacturers are well known for fitting items without any engineering benefits costing a couple of quid onto cars (which cannot be seen and polished by owners) because they just feel like it...Hmmm I don't think so. Mick Richards
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