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Motorsport Mickey

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Everything posted by Motorsport Mickey

  1. If the engine was working fine before you removed the head why are you even considering the taper ? If you want to button it back up it will work fine for thousands of miles yet, especially if you are using it as a weekend time machine only. If you are "putting in new rings and pistons" the rings will need a ridge dodger top ring (it has a step in the top ring top face... not large about 10 thou) so the ring doesn't hit the liner ridge and break. I would always check the liner protrusion height over the top of the block, straight edge and feelers is ok for a rough check (measure around it in 4 positions and write the numbers down on the top face of the liner). You are looking for or or heights above the block, typically the liners lean in all directions like Ken Dodds teeth, the last 50 years having stress relieved them allowing them to be displaced. Beware measurements, they are so close but yet offer a chance of a head gasket problem in the future, the "crutch liner" on the outside edge of the head prevents the head deforming and giving the same clamping force on the gasket. Depending upon how you've broken down the engine (retained the liners position with washers before removing the pistons is good and the appropriate way) then the new pistons and rings can just slip right on in there, minimum of work. If the liners have not been retained in position it's possible (vaguely ) the piston removal has disturbed the bottom Figure of 8 gasket seal and if just rebuilt without removing and resealing the liners a future water leak into the sump and then strip down to the position you are now beckons. If you are going to replace the Fo8 liner gaskets on the original liners you may as well rotate the liner 90 deg so the thrust face on the piston has a fresh bit of liner to attack for the next 20 years. There are over 80 posts on liner removal and reworking (at least 8 of them from me) use the search box on any of the 4 cyl forums and you get all the guff on it. Mick Richards
  2. ^ +1 As Bob says when you crank the engine the crank handle needs some serious support because it sticks out a long way. Also the location on the "dog bolt" is the cut outs on the crankhandle drive faces which don't like a lot of up and down or stirring motion. On my TR3a I noticed the crank handle guide when it was cranked was "rippling" the apron material it was bolted to and checked underneath to find...no guide support struts, ! a bit of home handyman and I fashioned a pair to support and hold it in position and job done, no rippling. Mick Richards
  3. Happy Birthday Tom, I hope your day makes you smile. Mick and Margaret Richards
  4. Gas weld and make sure it's not an oxidising flame and drill it whilst it's still v hot red even. Mick Richards
  5. Thanks Rob, nobody over the years has been able to find it and many owners have never given it a thought about the correct torque to bolt the pulley on with, which for a 5/8 UNF threaded Grade 3 bolt is up to 150 lb ft. Manufacturers don't fit that grade unless they think it really really needs it...they cost. Maybe Lionel has a "colonial" copy which was upgraded with the dog bolt torque when all other countries have not had that benefit, I'll advise if he passes more info on, in the meantime I'll continue to use 120 lb ft which seems to do the job, that doesn't come loose and I doubt another 20 lb ft on top will give a benefit. Mick Richards
  6. Good job Ian, as you say likely the noise was an errant cam follower. Following on from our earlier discussion about the "dog bolt" which holds the front crankshaft pulley on and the torque required to do it. As said the torque required is not shown on any manuals including workshop copies and the absence of the figures in black and white and owners reluctance to use "big numbers " when torquing it up often leads to ongoing damage when it becomes loose (and they do). This "absence of proof" puzzles many owners and I was asked again about it on the US Triumph Experience forum, I quoted 120 lb ft and had a couple of replies but then yesterday received this answer to my post on the thread. Re: TR3 crank extension bolt torque value #4 LionelJ rudd Lionel Rudd Perth, Western Australia, Australia 1970 Land Rover Series IIA Jul 6, 2020 12:29 AM The TR2 (with TR3 supplement) specifies 140 ft lb for this bolt. Regards, Lionel. I've asked Lionel if he can take a photo and send me a copy or an e mail so I can bring my workshop manuals up to date, I'll advise if and when I receive it. Now 140 lb ft is getting VERY close to the 5/8th UNF on Grade 3 (which I think the Dog bolt is) bolts stripping torque which I've seen recorded at 150 lb ft, so if the dog bolt has been replaced with a lesser grade 5 or 8 bolt for example I think this torque is too much. I would not torque up at more than the suggested 120 lb ft. Mick Richards
  7. Weld up and redrill round ? Mick Richards
  8. Have you checked the clearance of the diff where the prop shaft bolts to to the transmission tunnel as suggested. If it doesn’t have a good clearance the car bodywork and suspension movement will allow the bodywork to “displace” leaning across and reducing the clearance until contact with the prop shaft and U/J area, and then return to clearance When you check on it statically. Mick Richards
  9. Cut, remove excess , straighten, weld, dress, primer, paint, drive car. Mick Richards
  10. If it's performance at a cheap price the Dellorto DHLA 40s are the model to go for, spares are available easily across their range. Mick Richards
  11. Hi Hamish, Are they a matched pair ? can you blow up the photo to compare the stampings ? even then you'd have to compare the progression drillings to e sure. Mick Richards
  12. Have a great day Paul, Happy Birthday. Mick Richards
  13. I think that's slightly different Hamish, they didn't sell tickets for the beach or indeed have any idea that 500,000 (who counted them) people would go there. Mick Richards
  14. Typical wear on the carb spindle as it exits the butterfly at either end, it gets notchy and sticks on full throttle as the spindle pushes across at full piston lift. The clue is the car starts ok when bumped after tapping the throttle, with no vacuum on the piston it drops back and the throttle spindle can relax. Mick Richards
  15. Don't we know it Bert ! (excellent film). Mick Richards
  16. I shouldn't worry about that Mike, try grabbing a pair of screwdriver to stuff into the open carb orifices on a TR4 and manually lift a pair of 2" SU pistons to max lift on a running rolling road churning at 4000 revs and then hearing Trrickitik trik tilk and shouting to turn it off and as the final revs die...clunk Tsssssss as water cascades through the exhaust manifolds...dead. Just imagine how you feel when you pull the head to inspect at home to see a screwdriver magnetic tip embedded into the piston crown near the edge = scrap, and a cracked liner = scrap, and a cracked squish area on the race head = scrap and then just to round it off when rebuilding a frantic 2 weeks later finding the top of the piston with a 4thou lean on it which means a bent conrod = scrap. You do learn, In this case it means don't go anywhere near open carbs with replaceable tip screwdrivers or anything else that can get put/sucked into there. I started saving a "black museum" of items I'd broken or over modded whilst trying to make the car quicker but after 2 years scrapped it because I was running out of space ! Experience teaches you how to avoid making bad decisions, and bad decisions are what gives you the experience to avoid making the self same bad decisions. Mick Richards
  17. I don't think Dianne Abbott has an A game...just a B or a C game. Mick Richards PS: and now her C game has returned to the back benches.
  18. He has an advantage Miles, he doesn't have left wing leanings (or any other I can detect, which is how it should be) whereas the BBC interviewers are wetting themselves to find a "gotcha" moment against any government official or Conservative politician. On the other hand they toady to Labour party politicians feeding them established lines that receive ready made answers which are often not questioned. Any politician that goes on Nick Fs show needs to take their A game with them. Mick Richards
  19. Andy, It isn't going to happen, refer to reasons posted 1 and 2 if you think China would turn up it's nose at this "Hong Kong's gross domestic product has grown 180 times between 1961 and 1997. Also, the GDP per capita rose by 87 times within the same time frame.[31] Its economy is slightly larger than Israel's or Ireland's[32][33][34] and its GDP per capita at purchasing power parity was the sixth highest globally in 2011, higher than the United States and the Netherlands and slightly lower than Brunei." there is more money here than anybody would like to pass up. Whereas we have shown ourselves as being thoroughly good chaps and stand by the agreement made with China, and since broken by them (they had signed not to make major changes to the Hong Kong systems before 50 years had passed). That's potted the left wing hysteria that awaits if we don't welcome these peoples, and their work ethic is impressive and as you say sadly will exceed many of our home grown unemployed. Even better if having confirmed our gentlemanly customs China refuse to allow the emigration and we don't have to do it. Mick Richards
  20. Mark, That's the advantage of an electric jack...with electric remote control (by cable) it can be positioned in areas where you can't normally reach the jack to screw it up if the manual version. It's got enough length of cable to allow the scissor jack to be positioned pretty well anywhere on the vehicle, either under front crossmember or front spring pans or rear axle (tube or spring plates or even the diff). Oh...it's also got a 2 ton lift capacity (proven by lifting my neighbours 4x4 front end when the tyres had been vandalised) which is comforting. As Roger says ( I bought mine upon Rogers say so...he's correct...again) £47 on e bay, (3 years ago) well worth the money and a useful tool to be used anywhere garage or out on the car, it also allows you to lift the car after placing the jack and remain stood up at the side of the car watching for kamikaze drivers that don't spot a disabled car, safety wise not to be sniffed at. Mick Richards
  21. Happy Birthday Alan, I hope the engine is progressing smoothly. regards Mick Richards
  22. ^ +1 with Roger, I use the electric jack anywhere where a controlled lift is required, the remote control (cable) allows placement under cars, caravans or in garage delicate lifts as per Roger's gearbox into the car where angling the gearbox is a fundamental part of refitting. Mick Richards
  23. Andy, I think you'll find the Chinese will be VERY concerned about 3 million people walking away from Hong Kong for the following reasons. 1) Loss of face, (the impression that they have been beaten in a negotiation). Hong Kong is just a small peninsular and collection of a few islands, it doesn't have natural resources that makes it valuable or important. It's the people who live and work there along with many world leading firms, people from around the world in many instances that either work harder or work smarter than the rest of the world...and earn lots of foreign currency by so doing. Having a mass exodus of the tools that made Hong Kong rich will shine a light on the Emperors new clothes to the rest of the Chinese population, here's a small enclave that has peacefully (well by demonstrating that might have strayed into being forceful ), shown that they cannot be bullied by a government. China cannot afford for that to happen. 2) Loss of traders and specialist people. The 3 million people who make take up their businesses and run, (and China can't stop that because their business is in intellectual rights or in their application to work, cannot easily be replaced. Their expertise has been built up over decades and contacts , know how, and the sheer bloody mindedness to put up with anything whilst they build a better future for themselves and by association the country that houses them. China has lots of hard workers but not combined with the trading and world exploiting expertise of Hong Kong. China cannot replace them easily, or quickly if at all 3) The golden egg (the lots of foreign currency). The Chinese government is greedy for the foreign currency that Hong Kong drags in, that was the whole idea of allowing Hong Kong to coexist with China...one country - two systems. When I was last there in 2017 I was with a couple of ex Hong Kong residents, they showed me around...Stanley market etc, and their tales of being able to negotiate any items down were scuppered by those traders who would only discount by 10-15% instead of the 40-50% these same ex residents were used to. The light went from their eyes of these traders as they realised they couldn't tempt us at their prices and when questioned by the ex residents they complained of increased internal costs and add on's with the top figures being manipulated by the state to increase the payments made by them to the "government". There will be a considerable reduction in foreign currency for the Chinese government if these hard working people are allowed to leave. If a large proportion of these 3 million people were allowed to gain British Citizenship their work ethic and determination to succeed, even more endorsed by moving to a new country I feel would enhance our futures and gild our efforts to rebuild our economy and future international trades. Mick Richards
  24. That cover looks nice, it’s just if it allows enough access, looks like about half a top vernier dia. You might have to trust the screws and nuts that the adjustment is locked to allow careful turning to be applied to get at the others. Mick Richards
  25. Never seen this mod done but the timing covers are available cheaply especially if slightly damaged or worn by a timing chain tensioner (£10 ?). I would be tempted to look at one to see if it could be split across with a hacksaw and the top half removed with an underlapping steel lip added to the bottom fixed half (welded to it say 10mm or so sticking out) and then a thin rubber seal added to the lip sticking out to help seal against oil seepage (there's minimal excess pressure pushing oil out) . Then when the adjustments have been made if the split timing cover is not completely oil sealed remove that cover and use the original one piece version to run and race on. There's a way to do it, experimentation will show whether it's a goer. Mick Richards
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