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Motorsport Mickey

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Everything posted by Motorsport Mickey

  1. Thought of doing the same myself...then I thought about all those opportunities for a crack to develop from those holes in a wheel never designed for so many...and I chickened out. Looks good. Mick Richards
  2. There are different approaches Andy, the crankshaft has it's bigend reground within the limits of it's bearing core dimension, ie standard or -10 whatever. Taking the centre of the big end further away from the actual centre of the crankshaft. So you need to source larger big end shells that will still work with the finished big end bearing surface, in my case -60 Massey Ferguson. The crank offset using standard length rods and piston compression heights (machined to work with the block deck height) and has the effect of increasing the stroke. Try this youtube for descriptions of rad r
  3. Hi Roger, I agree that the hubs after 35-40 years have reached their material "terminal" strength, and I think that we have a conjoined problem in the area. There are more reports on the IRS cars of squeaking from the rear for a time and then a shear failure either from the hub or from the stub axle causing wheel loss. Without expertise in the area (unlike yourselves and others) my thinking is that if either the hub or stub axle starts to exhibit excess flexing caused by micro cracking or cracking it often impacts upon the other component, causing an increase in stress which then lea
  4. Always worth remembering of possible consequences, “The past is a foreign country: they do things differently there,” today we wouldn't dream of making cars with such in built safety flaws. Our own Alec Pringle posted of his own sad experience with them Mick Richards
  5. As Bob says should be ok. If it’s any help I won the TR Register championship on a standard Triumph crankshaft with -20 mains and big ends ground to -60 ( yup). With the crankshaft throw being offset ground on the big ends to increase the length of stroke. ( hence -60). The crankshaft was lightened and balanced and Nitrited also. The car won the championship the year after also after the bearings were replaced (as the norm with race cars.) I did use a 6000 rev limit ( self imposed) with a 6500 rev limiter in case of “ red mist”, maybe you are thinking of increasing the rev limit.
  6. + 1... Lets face it you can cut the bolts...and then weigh them on the missuses kitchen scales to get them identical with a touch of a grindstone on heavy ones. Mick Richards
  7. Curses ! Beaten to the reply by Charlie (sob). As he so rightly points out I would bemoan the use of WD40 as an anti seize ( cats piss) which doesn’t work ( no lubricant qualities). Also the use of the misleadingly named “Easy out” which on every occasion I’ve heard of…doesn’t. Damn you Easy out… damn you. That sinking feeling, as the highly aggressive taper on the left handed thread careers like a drunken sailor around the hole and then the slightest of resistance as it grabs. Then the explosion of super hard easy out as the stress riser on the top of the taper exceeds base material
  8. Maybe worth considering but dangerous practice to have a key fob which has your Registration number on it. Lose the keys at a showground or large outside event and when found if the finder is a scumbag he has your keys and knows the car is in a limited location and how to recognise it. A ten minute walk around the car park to locate it and your car is...gone...and worse. If you have house keys on it also and you have a sat nav left in the car and have the "HOME" destination set at your address...he has your car and your house keys and it's location to within 20 metres. You would likely no
  9. Nearly missed it, Happy Birthday Alan. Mick Richards
  10. "Most contemporary sources suggest a 0-60 time for a TR6 in the mid 8s, which whilst not remarkable by today's standards remain respectable at least? It doesn't feel like it's turning in that kind of number. Out of mechanical sympathy I have no plans to do any timed runs anytime soon." I don't know how you expect to judge it's performance then Sean, the car cannot give you the numbers if you don't drive the car to a level to get them. Any judgement can only be subjective IF you don't drive the car to the mechanical limit that 0-60mph times are driven to. The modern car is easier to d
  11. Oh dear...my 2007 Ford S max 2.00 TDCI Diesel 7 seater which weighs in at 1700 kgs unladen does 0-60 in 9.8 secs. I fear your expectations of a 50 year old sports car which was quite quick in it's day are inflated. Todays motors with all the various advantages in electrical and pump fuel delivery lose much of the delays and the slower delivery of acceleration. As Paul says the pleasure in owning a good looking car which you can have the top down on is where all the TR range scores, I don't think I've ever had kids jump up and down and wave when I've driven past in the Ford, but often in TRs.
  12. Go for a Spotmatic again, I'm using a 25 year old machine and it's working fine, will spot weld 18 gauge material and at 1.3 sec setting will start to melt it's way through it. Bought with 450 mm arms which with various length electrodes will do most of TR spot welds, e bay is your friend. I'll move it on when I finish my shell, (months yet). see the for sale forum when they come on, for guidance on prices, I'll be asking £350 for it . Also a Sealey stud welder to pull out those nasty little dents you can't get in to without drilling out 30 plus spotwelds (hours of work don't fool yoursel
  13. Have a great day Rod, Happy Birthday. Mick Richards
  14. Hi Ian, You have a return message. Mick Richards
  15. Err...check what happens to the oil pressure when you depress the clutch, does the pressure...increase and the graunching go away ? or does the pressure drop off and the graunching increase when you let the clutch out ? Might be interesting to observe. Mick Richards
  16. Nothing to lose, ...If I was you I'd bang some K Seal in which has as it's speciality...sealing hairline cracks in water jackets. Many Stag owners run full time with it in to help seal the somewhat problematical head gasket/inlet gasket/waterpump etc leak spots on the Stag engines. It's a mix of fine copper particles and ceramic granules and doesn't block the larger water channels in radiators or heaters etc because it's so fine unlike some of the other products on the market. Run it for another 1000 miles give it a chance to seal and then revise your opinion, to give you an idea I ran wi
  17. Sorry don’t know about the Quaife hubs, but it sounds like it’s a generic part and the Triumph flange is slightly bigger and needs reducing to suit, probably ok to do. Mick Richards
  18. As stated previously in the thread ...Just a point which many TR owners will follow, the releasing of the rear shock absorbers to gain under TR working space is common, but the CV driveshafts are engineered to operate within the trailing arm controlled droop, Some years back there were a few TRs with CVs fitted that suffered damage to them with unrestrained droop on the trailing arms it overextending the CV driveshafts beyond their operating range. When in service if you again need the space to work underneath it's good practice to avoid over extending the CV driveshafts and causing
  19. Phil, I'm not sure how many failures will be enough for you. It's not the bearing failure that's a problem...it's the hub SPLITTING IN HALF (see the photos) and also the stub axle snapping in use. Even If you read this thread (you'll see maybe half a dozen reported here), and I've posted 4 different IRS owners who have had the pleasure. As I've said before the TRs are the canary in the mineshaft, because of our pretensions of driving a sports car we use them harder than maybe the Stags (who have had their own numbers of failures despite their... possibly more restrained shall we
  20. " if it gives you peace of mind." Which isn't worth the burnt ions it took for you to savour it ! As I've pointed out before having a yearly MOT is merely a comfort blanket for owners, the additional pair of eyes can be accommodated by having your TR owning friend (who's more knowledgeable about TR likely fail points than a spotty 18 year old mechanic who fails your handbrake reverse ratchet system "as not being in working condition") do the honours and you return the favour to him ! Fair enough if your mechanical skill or experience is non existent, but as pointed out the MOT is on
  21. Yep… these fluted extractors give you the best chance when you have a sheared bolt, they are tough and will take a good torque. Good result. Mick Richards
  22. Suspect the rear hub as having damage and maybe a crack through it. Jack up the rear of the car and with wheels check for movement at 12 and 6 and 9 and 3 across the hub by pushing and pulling on the tyre. If there is movement or signs of damage drop back onto wheels and undo and then remove the wheels and inspect minutely around the hubs. This is what you may have just hanging together You may have missed this thread https://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/79974-tr4a-rear-wheel-bearing/&tab=comments#comment-760504 but it's quite possible your problem
  23. Agreed, but those nuts are already tightened and when undone are again cleaned and dried, these cylinder studs with a coil of lead linger around the head face stud surface which gets trapped and spread under torque load (it doesn't interfere with the torque loadings) prevents any oil seepage down into the block stud threads, and any water seepage UP the stud in the event of a minor leak, so they are dry. Micky
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