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Motorsport Mickey

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Everything posted by Motorsport Mickey

  1. Seen that look many times “ What’s going on here then?” Great image. Mick Richards
  2. Although the ARP are fine the gasket needs it if a composite, to take up “ in use annealing” and relaxing. Mick Richards
  3. That crank needs checking with a micrometre, with a "very near" as they referred to in engineering circles it's too easy to lose a thou or two because the Vernier gauge (see it's only a "gauge", to be used when better equipment isn't at hand) isn't exactly at 90 deg to the bearing crank plane... visually from the photo the bearings don't even look badly worn to me. Go into it "old school", fit the bearings into the conrod big ends and torque it up (hold it in a vice in soft jaws) and use snap gauges (expanding Telescopic gauges) to measure the inside dia of the fitted and torqued big end bearings and mike that up. Compare the dimensions against the crankshaft big ends checked by micrometre (measure in two axis around the journal checking ovality also) and see what you get, you should be within a thou of correct for clearance that way. Mick Richards
  4. Pete, The TR4a was just stretching into "new thought" engineering practices at Triumph and you'll probably find the con rod bolts are of the "stretch" variety - hence no lock tabs or split washer showing on yours I think. They were supposed to be ok for a couple (or so) uses but given you don't know if they've been used before (almost certainly) new bolts of whatever sort you wish here are very worthwhile. On the race car I'd gone onto using Unbrako cap heads with a smidge of blue Loctite and reused them over 3 seasons rebuilds with no problems. Mick Richards
  5. Until the car is moving at any speed. Car manufacturers aren't stupid, examine the area in front of the windscreens in many different new models from many different manufacturers. The inlet for the in car heater comes out in a grill immediately in front of the windscreen, why do you think that is ? When the car is moving at any appreciable speed (30 mph onwards) the air from the inclined windscreen creates a high pressure area at the base of the windscreen, it seeks an escape avenue which is happily supplied by the manufacturers into the heater vents. The air you feel being displaced out of the gap given by the lifted hinges on blocks WILL stall when the increased pressure of the windscreen starts asserting itself and stuffs high pressure air in from the windscreen. Happily when your car is stood the raised rear of the bonnet will allow the escape of hot air because of course the heated air layers the underneath of the bonnet and the raised rear edge improves the layer dispersal rearwards. We tested this out on my race car TR7 V8 which of course has a similar windscreen angle to many modern cars with a considerable rake against the much more vertical angles of the TR4 and of course the earlier sidescreen cars. To improve the air flow down the rear of engine immediately in front of the windscreen we removed (by hacksaw and snips) the existing rear of bonnet rain channel on the firewall and had an open gap of about 2" behind the bonnet trailing edge between the bonnet and rear of engine firewall. We then carried out traditional "wool tuft" testing along the bonnet, wings and windscreen and the photos (polaroid...this was the early 1990s) show the wool tufts on the lower area of the windscreen turning around and diving into the rear of bonnet gap and the high pressure area from the windscreen stretching forward about 18" in front of the windscreen. We had an underfloor alloy engine cover complete with extracting vent at the rear of engine bay firewall area to remove this hot air. If you seek to lower the carb area air temperature you need to build a sealed area that the carbs breath from, ideally from a sealed carb airbox (if the feed is via a corrugated pipe the turbulence from the corrugations slows down the airflow sufficient not to cause pressurisation of the carbs) or at least from carbs which breath from an area the inlet pipe with cold air vents into which is sealed as closely as possible against wing, bonnet and against manifolds heat intrusion. It doesn't have to be perfect the throughflow of air from the front should help reduce the temps in that area. Mick Richards
  6. ^ +1 Also don't think you get away with it if you use paint of any description between mating surfaces. On trucks over the last 20 or 30 years we've seen mechanics with sledge hammers trying to break the bond of melted paint where hub faces and the inside of wheels had been painted with a 2 pack paint which had then melted when in use and fused together, and this would be after only 6 or 8 weeks use from new (Operator licensing requirements). Can't imagine the bond if wheels have been on for 8 or 12 months before trying to remove, as said above keep the mating surfaces steel on steel (or alloy). Mick Richards
  7. Yeah, I'm afraid there are a number of big fails on the videos, amongst them he measures the liner heights having pulled them down with washers, big mistake, you have to compress the Figure of 8 gaskets as it would be in running condition, that means pulling the liners down with the head and torqueing at 105 lb ft. Then remove the head and retain the liners with the large washers torque them down to about 40 lbs (non critical) it's just to prevent the gaskets "flexing" and altering the liner height. Also having made a big deal of fitting the liner retaining washers because he makes a mess of the process in order of fittings (head gasket) he doesn't show refitting the liner retaining washers in place whilst you rotate the engine with pistons fitted at 14:31...a recipe for breaking the seal on the Figure of 8 gaskets he just carefully fitted and later causing water leaks into the sump. Mick Richards
  8. There needs to be a mind change Roger in those organisations who want to sell classic car products to owners. Fair enough it's a business but that means setting yourself up to commission the parts needed and then amortising the production costs over a number of years and products sold. That may mean the parts themselves become more expensive than normally is the case requiring a number of specialists joining together to retail the finished product and owners to accept buying a car that is very badly rotted will require more money than they thought to reneovate (what option do you have if an owner with no other source ?), that's where a mind change comes into place with classic car owners opening up their minds and buying what they see is a good necessary product. To show what is required to make the TR rear seat floor panel (a single plane tool requiring only male female profile forming and then pressing) which is perhaps one of the simpler panels on TRs view the following photos. Yes...the 520kgs is the starting weight for the male seat tool ! Following hours of machine work which turns into this Which when pressed into a male opposing die (not so thick, pressed by the press in front of a former) like this (many more hours of machine work)
  9. You have to have an exceptional reason to try and remove the overdrive only, it is of a weight itself and when the overdrive and gearbox are mated back together you have to juggle the overdrive fitting onto the gearbox needing three hands and gaining a new exposure to swear words...it's hard enough to do with the gearbox positioned vertically with gravity helping the overdrive sliding it on whilst you fiddle and arrange the bits. Having a bad back is indeed a reason not to get involved with lifting in confined areas and I would consider paying a neighbour, local friend or nearest TR enthusiast or other classic car freak to help with the gearbox and overdrive removal combined whilst you encourage and explain the method and then refit the unit for you after the overdrives return to health. Mick Richards
  10. Quite normal for almost all tyres Johannes whether racing or road, you can see quite clearly where the "tread blocks" have been deformed smearing the compound across the surface. If they were "buffed" tyres with only a couple of mm left on the tread or slicks the tyre surface wouldn't have leaned and the compound would not have anywhere to adhere too and would have peeled off forming rubber "marbles" which you normally find on the outside of corners. Mick Richards
  11. Yes but 50 odd years ago the "standard grey primer" was going on "young steel" which hopefully was as good as you got it without any seams etc infected with rust. If you may be storing these a while I would be cleaning the grey off and giving a coat of BondaRust primer inside and out which will give much better rust protection and seal off any areas that has rust started helping prevent further rusting. As for spraying with underseal if you are hoping to sell them that will put a good number of buyers off (what's underneath and unseen ?) whilst the BondaRust primer will do a good job without inhibiting buyers. Mick Richards
  12. Remove the pit boards and drive in ? Mick Richards
  13. A lovely panel, you should get that price all day long. Mick Richards
  14. There were only 85 x DU 6 carbs made from memory and were the original choice for the Cooper FPF F1 engine which was the development of the old Coventry Climax fire engine (where's Fireman Tom when you need him, he'd give further info) static pumping unit which ran lots of revs (about 11,000 from memory). The DU6s suited them for balls out power and flow without the complication of part throttle and quick switchs of revs. As posted above they were also fitted to the Le Mans racing TRs of 3 and 4 models (although the TR4S was called the TRS, much conversations about that) the DU6s sometimes come up for sale but now fetching very strong money well over £1k or £1500 for a pair. After researching and some detective work back in 1987 we found 5 x DU 6 carbs in the Norfolk area and bought them for £80 a carb, 48 hours later we had made inlet manifolds to suit 2 of them of enormous length ( "11") to try and bring the torque peak lower down and after a 2 hour setup period on a rolling road with probably the best man in the UK for SUs, Peter Burgess at Alfreton had them running well enough to compete in the Birkett 6 Hour relay race at Donnington on the Saturday. They only gave 8 HP more than my very well developed and altered 2 x 1 3/4 SUs and were nothing like as nice to drive, with the torque coming in at 4000 revs, fitting Webers in contrast gave 15 hp more. In retrospect I think the Weber type shorter manifolds would have worked better for progression which is what Paul Hogan has fitted with them now running on his car. When I asked around as to why these 5 x DU6s were available the owner said "they'd been taken off cars back in the early 1960s and put under benches and replaced by Webers which were easier to keep in tune and gave many options with variable chokes and the other changeable pieces ". When I asked some historic Cooper racers back in 2002 if they'd like a pair of DU6s they preferred to keep their Webers regarding the DU6s as "detuning" their cars. They certainly look nice though in the engine bay. Mick Richards
  15. My money is on an overdrive problem, sounds like the uni directional clutch is loosing impetus and the drive rollers are rolling back loosing drive (likely oil pressure or a bad connection electrical). Go for a drive but consciously observe when the overdrive is engaged... don’t use it and see if we can eliminate it. Mick richards
  16. You've not mentioned, I don't suppose you have an overdrive gearbox ? Could be that if you have one in use, try it engaged and not engaged to see if it varies. Mick Richards
  17. Miles, That's the quick connectors I use on the caravan, 5 years multiple quick release on/off use ...no problems - good to go. Mick Richards
  18. I use quick release battery connectors on my caravan for battery isolation purposes, they work well and help prevent "leakage" of the charge especially with caravans which often have relays and other "leaching" ancillaries. Because they are bolt on items I see no problem using on a classic, they can be replaced with originals in 15 minutes if required. Do you have a sort in mind ? Mick Richards
  19. Pretty...pretty me like, just 2 things I'd adjust if it were mine. Mick Richards
  20. On the photos shown (limited to exterior) that's a pretty car. Of course under bonnet or under floor photos (not shown) may tell a different story. Mick Richards
  21. Try reading the reviews for an insight on how they perform, lots of complaints on a variety of other outside "canvas" garages of heavy condensation, just what most people are trying to avoid. Here's one https://www.mx5oc.co.uk/forum/yaf_postst105504_Machine-Mart-Clarke-Garage-problem.aspx Mick Richards
  22. Well done to Bailey and also to you Dave for the encouragement you've given him. He impressed me at Donnington at the Swinging 60s race the other week, he applied himself to the jobs he'd been set and completed them before coming back for a chat with us "old uns". I'm sure he'll have a great time with you and look forward to seeing you both around the circuits. Mick Richards
  23. I thought this was a great car until I saw the rust on the chassis and on the underfloor panels from the footwells backwards. Very strange the front underfloor and chassis to just behind the front wheels is well presented (although I wouldn't bet it's just been sprayed on over rust), I just can't work out who would do that or take pictures of it and put it for sale ! Mick Richards
  24. Hi Rich, Sent an hour ago, check your PM list to make sure you are not full capacity. Mick Richards
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