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aleda

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About aleda

  • Birthday 06/13/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chelmsford Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2, TR3,TR3A, Frogeye Sprite,Triumph Herald 13/60, BMW2002, TR4A

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  1. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Troops - just found this on the net which says it all:- ANTIFREEZE IN CLASSIC CARS Advice from Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) Technology moves forward; new products are constantly being launched with claims to improved formulations and performance. With the bitterly cold weather during the winter of 2009/2010, antifreeze has been in the headlines, with some alarming stories in relation to classic cars. At first, these seem to be about the well-known tendency of antifreeze to find the tiniest hole and cause leaks. However, in some cases it has led to catastrophic engine problems. Traditional blue ethylene glycol is a toxic but highly effective antifreeze; it contains silicates as an inhibitor to help prevent corrosion in engines with mixed metals in their make-up. Bluecol and Blue Star are well known brand names; both are declared suitable for ‘classic cars’ on their company websites. Halfords also sells this type of anti-freeze with its own branding. Be aware that there are also low- or no-silicate ethylene glycol formulations (usually red) available which may not be suitable for all engines. Propylene glycol is another well-known and less toxic antifreeze formula and usually contains silicates. However, Comma, the main manufacturer, has now discontinued it in favour of an ethylene glycol product containing ‘bittering agents’ to make it less palatable and minimise the risk of accidental poisoning. Both of these products use inorganic additive technology (IAT). Recently, problems have been reported concerning the use of antifreeze mixtures using organic acid technology (OAT). OAT was introduced in the mid-1990s and the products are biodegradable, recyclable, do not contain either silicates or phosphates and are designed to be longer lasting. However, these products do seem to cause problems in older engines. Over and above the ability of antifreeze to find the smallest crevice and leak, OAT antifreezes have been accused of destroying seals and gaskets and causing a great deal of damage in ‘old’ engines. For this reason, the manufacturers do not recommend their use in historic vehicles. These products are usually coloured red, pink or orange. The final category is HOAT. These products use hybrid organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base with some silicates in the formulation alongside the organic corrosion inhibitors. The product is usually coloured green and is not recommended for use in historic vehicles. FBHVC is still researching this problem but its current advice is: Only use blue coloured IAT antifreeze in historic vehicles Only use OAT products (‘advanced’ or ‘long life’ antifreeze) if the vehicle used it when new and if specifically directed by the vehicle’s manufacturer Never mix different types of antifreeze without thoroughly flushing out the system Always replace the coolant within the time scale specified by the antifreeze manufacturer as the corrosion inhibitors break down over time
  2. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Rob - thanks for the info, will get details of the make used. Thanks for the info sheet Marcel, I copy and pasted it into Systran for a translation! will put my Scientist hat on! What make do most people use? Hope I can just empty it, flush it through with water and replace with the right one. There’s no rush? Leda
  3. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Troops - my 4a came back from electric fan fit last week with pink antifreeze in the radiator. Always used blue. She’s actually called ‘Betty’ but I’m sure that’s not relevant !!! I’m sure this will have come up on the forum before but I can’t find the thread. Seems like blue is better for older cars? Just got back from SOA and thank you to all the organisers. I haven’t been to many Internationals to compare but I enjoyed the weekend and the area. My dynamo packed up en route so completed the journey there on the battery - am very fortunate to have the A Team in my club who sent me shopping at the auto jumble for the necessary replacement then fitted it not once but twice as the first one I bought didn’t work! Thanks Guys, really appreciate all your work That’s when I suddenly realised I hadn’t swopped the blue antifreeze in my boot for pink! Fortunately there was enough in the rad to get me home. Leda
  4. Hi Barry - they look really good and comfortable. It's great when you find someone whose work you're pleased with. I was the same when I found Millrace to refurb my dashboard as the veneer was peeling and breaking. My original seats are on the list for refurb next year. Christine
  5. What a challenge that must be and to get parts to NZ as well. Well done is not enough. Enjoy driving it one day soon. Christine
  6. Sorry - should have said the fat ones in the photo are 510273 and are wrong. Chrustine
  7. Hi Troops - new dash top and escutcheons fitted and windscreen back on. It's amazing what you find when taking the car apart. There were no nyloc nuts on the windscreen support legs and half the rubber seal at the base of the screen was facing in a different direction... All sorted now. When the wood dash was refurbed 6 of the 12 hinge screws didn't come back I rang Rimmer with the part nos from my old catalogue, they're obsolete and they sent me 510273 which are way too big. Have attached photo in the hope you can advise me where I can get these tiddlers Many Thanks as always Christine
  8. Hi Troops - new dash top and escutcheons fitted and windscreen back on. It's amazing what you find when taking the car apart. There were no nyloc nuts on the windscreen support legs and half the rubber seal at the base of the screen was facing in a different direction... All sorted now. When the wood dash was refurbed 6 of the 12 hinge screws didn't come back I rang Rimmer with the part nos from my old catalogue, they're obsolete and they sent me 510273 which are way too big. Have attached photo in the hope you can advise me where I can get these tiddlers Many Thanks as always Christine
  9. Hi Roger - I did read other postings about the pressure on switch plinth when pulling choke cable. Trouble is my TR Shop switch plinth doesn't come with side fixings to screw your recommended bolt into. There is a flat metal plate built into the switch plinth, hopefully others who have used the TR Shop haven't had problems with it pulling to pieces? Christine
  10. Hi Troops - pleased to report that both wheel boxes now have new bush kits, greased rack and my newly refurbished wiper motor, I can't believe it's the same one, and really thrilled with Alan T's work on the wiper motor. Don't want to risk frying my new wiring loom with a test run before reconnecting all the instrument dials and switch plinth switches so will have to be patient.
  11. aleda

    New V112 MOT form

    Funnily enough I received my V11 yesterday and it does say this vehicle needs an MOT certificate but when I went online to renew it automatically calculates that the vehicle doesn't need an MOT, you just have to tick the declaration box that there's been no modifications to rate it otherwise. Much relieved as am racing against the clock to have her ready for my first International and adding an MOT to the mix is too stomach churning. Think I would still like the garage to give her an unofficial MOT every year though. Christine
  12. Hi Chris - that's interesting, do you remember helping Allan fit the CB radio in Betty in 2009? I wonder if the rheostat switch was used then? Will check when I get back home. Yes, looking forward to International, just hope she will be ready in time....... Christine
  13. Hi Troops, Turning my thoughts to next stage of interior refurb once the dashtop is fitted Had new switch plinth from TR Shop since 2012, now to fit it. Checking with a magnet I see it does have a metal base behind the 'expanded polyurethane' and vinyl. There's also 2 large, 3 small circles (the outside 2 small have a flat top) for the switches and 2 screw holes to screw it to the metal dash plate behind the wooden dash. There are no side fixings like my original but it's a good snug fit between the crash pads either side. All the switches worked b/f removing but do you recommend replacing anything whilst it's out? The existing chrome bezels appear to be a hot potch so thought I would get these - can I get a set? Anything else I should be aware of or need for fitting? All advice appreciated. Christine
  14. Hi All - many thanks for input and yes it is expanded polyurethane covered with vinyl...I can only blame a senior moment for this misnomer! Glue ordered and with all your advice it should all come together nicely. Fingers crossed for the switch plinth holes next... Christine
  15. Hi Guys - thanks Roger but on checking Thixofix it's not suitable for polystyrene which my TR Shop dashtop is made from. AF178 is suitable for polystyrene. Thanks Alan for the detailed instructions, unless any other suggestions are forthcoming it looks like I will have to bite the bouncing bomb Roger! Scary... Christine
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