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About aleda

  • Birthday 06/13/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chelmsford Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2, TR3,TR3A, Frogeye Sprite,Triumph Herald 13/60, BMW2002, TR4A

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  1. Thanks for that info Roger, i hadn’t heard of them. I will phone them today for a quote. Has anyone come across snags with new ones, fitting and operation? Christine
  2. Hi Everyone - hope you are all keeping well. I’m having the engine bay refurbished and ‘everything is out’ - scary what you find...My engineer suggested new master cylinders but I’m a bit disappointed with the clutch master cylinder, it’s not marked Lucas and has a plastic cap instead of the aluminium one so they don’t match. The originals worked but would it be better to replace? I’m trying hard to hang on to original but not easy to persuade my engineer. Is there a refurb service like there is for wiper motors, dynamos etc? Will there be any snags with fitting the new ones? I do read o
  3. aleda

    Hi Pogo - I am after a TR4A commission plate and read a 2007 post of yours when I googled commission plates.

    Do you make them up? It needs to be as per original design and it looks like you did a lot of research to ensure this.

    Look forward to hearing back


    1. Pogo


      Hi Christine. I do have 2 TR4A style commission plates - see photo attached. On the photo there are some marks - that is just the protective film on it. That is removed and the finish is a lovely flat black. I sell them on eBay for £15, but to forum people I do them for £12. I don't stamp them, but I have a local guy who does them for me if requested. He charges £25 to stamp them with your details - I can't offer a discount on that as that's what I have to pay him. He will require a photo of your V5 with your address on it (front) and p2 with the car details. Also a photo of a recent utility bill in your name with the same address on it. If you have your old commission plate a photo of that too. I would send you a photo of the stamped plate before any payment needs to be made. Payment via bank transfer of PayPal using 'friends and family'. Delivery to UK is free. If you need any more information, let me know. My email is roger@hinds5.co.uk - that's the best way to get in touch. Thanks. Roger


  4. aleda

    Radiator Cowl

    Thanks Roger for prompt reply, thanks also Richard, I have pm’d you Christine
  5. Hello Troops - wondered where you buy a decent cowl from? I bought one a couple of years ago and it looks inside out, for want of a better description the black shiny side is inside and the grey cardboard side shows outside in the engine bay. It cost £18.50 at the time so should have realised! My engine has come out to cut out some rusty sections and I would like to replace this cowl with something better if I'm going to have a newly painted engine bay. Any suggestions much appreciated. Christine
  6. H All - thanks so much for all your advice, so helps to get others points of view. John and Stuart - the stay photos are a great help to see how it should be, will show my engineer. Noted points about wet underlay, watched the video on dynamat, looks a good product but I need to priortise my jobs list. Good point Gerry - will investigate what you mean about access panels, one of the first jobs I did on my own was fix my bouncing speedo, I remember reading up why it bounced and possibly needing access through the prop tunnel to the angle drive but it turned out to be the cable had rounded an
  7. Hi Troops - I am putting together a parts list for 1967 TR4A. She's having various bodywork repairs and respray. As you can see from attached photo there is a kink which I don't believe should be there and I can't find the bracket in Rimmer (page 225). Is it a bracket that has been 'made up' for some reason or have you all got one? The telescopic stay works perfectly well at the moment, wondering if its one of those 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' moments Also needing a propshaft tunnel cover, guess fibreglass would be better this time? Is it worth investing in an underfelt ki
  8. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi John - wondered if you had managed to find the vent lid in the depths of your garage? Have you got sidetracked by some other interesting finds Christine
  9. She’s looking better already. Good to see she will be well looked after and restored as she should be This forum has been a great help to me and will be to you Happy TRing
  10. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi John - if you could have a look and get back to me with further details that would be great. Thanks for the info Drew, I found it ok, what did we do before 'copy and paste' ! Cheers for now Christine
  11. Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted
  12. Hi Roger - that’s a very well turned out switch plinth and what an original idea. Great stuff Christine
  13. Hi All - a little knowledge is dangerous? But I am trying to learn This is what I ordered from RS Components: Honeywell NO 15 A Bi-Metallic Thermostat. I was told its called a temperature switch. I had an electric fan fitted last year. The Thermo Switch is similar to the one from RS Components but I see a range of temperatures. Whats the betting I need the one that's out of stock? Appreciate knowing what you think I should order from Moss. Thanks for gauge Conrad but mine is ok (I hope) Cheers Christine
  14. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always.
  15. Hi Troops - perhaps I shouldn't put this here but on the assumption that more members read this here goes. I have magazine articles/cuttings featuring our favourite car and I would love to re-unite these with the current owners, they will go in an A4 envelope and happy to post to you. The registration numbers are: GCL 110F - ERW 798C - ETJ 208F If you pm me, I can post to you Christine
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