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aleda

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About aleda

  • Birthday 06/13/1949

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chelmsford Essex
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2, TR3,TR3A, Frogeye Sprite,Triumph Herald 13/60, BMW2002, TR4A

Recent Profile Visitors

677 profile views
  1. aleda

    Radiator Cowl

    Thanks Roger for prompt reply, thanks also Richard, I have pm’d you Christine
  2. aleda

    Radiator Cowl

    Hello Troops - wondered where you buy a decent cowl from? I bought one a couple of years ago and it looks inside out, for want of a better description the black shiny side is inside and the grey cardboard side shows outside in the engine bay. It cost £18.50 at the time so should have realised! My engine has come out to cut out some rusty sections and I would like to replace this cowl with something better if I'm going to have a newly painted engine bay. Any suggestions much appreciated. Christine
  3. H All - thanks so much for all your advice, so helps to get others points of view. John and Stuart - the stay photos are a great help to see how it should be, will show my engineer. Noted points about wet underlay, watched the video on dynamat, looks a good product but I need to priortise my jobs list. Good point Gerry - will investigate what you mean about access panels, one of the first jobs I did on my own was fix my bouncing speedo, I remember reading up why it bounced and possibly needing access through the prop tunnel to the angle drive but it turned out to be the cable had rounded and I just needed to feed in the new one - phew. I really appreciate all your time. Conrad - will pm you. stay well everyone Christine
  4. Hi Troops - I am putting together a parts list for 1967 TR4A. She's having various bodywork repairs and respray. As you can see from attached photo there is a kink which I don't believe should be there and I can't find the bracket in Rimmer (page 225). Is it a bracket that has been 'made up' for some reason or have you all got one? The telescopic stay works perfectly well at the moment, wondering if its one of those 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' moments Also needing a propshaft tunnel cover, guess fibreglass would be better this time? Is it worth investing in an underfelt kit for the carpets too? Your advice is always appreciated. Many Thanks Christine
  5. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi John - wondered if you had managed to find the vent lid in the depths of your garage? Have you got sidetracked by some other interesting finds Christine
  6. She’s looking better already. Good to see she will be well looked after and restored as she should be This forum has been a great help to me and will be to you Happy TRing
  7. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi John - if you could have a look and get back to me with further details that would be great. Thanks for the info Drew, I found it ok, what did we do before 'copy and paste' ! Cheers for now Christine
  8. aleda

    TR4A Vent Lid

    Hi Troops - looking at replacing my vent lid as i think it’s too rusty to save unfortunately. I’ve searched the forum and seen the 2018 posts about poor quality fit of the part 705242 which is currently out of stock at Rimmer and Moss anyway. I also noted that the TR Shop seal is a better fit. Just wondered if anyone knows of another vent lid supplier/has one for sale? just to update you on my last post, thank you for all your input: as rs components didn’t have 85 deg bi-metallic thermostats, an open at +70 was fitted at the bottom of the rad and an open at 90 deg was fitted at the top. My engineer had already fitted a Spal electric blow fan, he’d removed the original fan. The electric fan is automatic, only works when needed but there’s a manual override so the fan can be run without the engine running for testing. Worked brilliantly for Angeloume last year but ran out of time to get the gauge to read correctly. It’s a good feeling to have a correctly working gauge after 10 years! Keep safe and well everyone Christine
  9. Hi Roger - that’s a very well turned out switch plinth and what an original idea. Great stuff Christine
  10. Hi All - a little knowledge is dangerous? But I am trying to learn This is what I ordered from RS Components: Honeywell NO 15 A Bi-Metallic Thermostat. I was told its called a temperature switch. I had an electric fan fitted last year. The Thermo Switch is similar to the one from RS Components but I see a range of temperatures. Whats the betting I need the one that's out of stock? Appreciate knowing what you think I should order from Moss. Thanks for gauge Conrad but mine is ok (I hope) Cheers Christine
  11. Hi Troops - a quick question that I hope you can help with. My temperature gauge has been over-reading for some while and I ordered a new 85 degree temperature switch from RS Components. The packet has arrived and it states 100 degrees and 100 is printed on the switch itself. I've been on the 'chatline' to RS and it appears there is an error on their website specification for this item (it clearly states 85 degrees). RS components don''t have 85 degrees, they do have 75 degrees. I'm obviously no techie so not sure what to do? Any advice very much appreciated as always. Christine PS - she did 1500 miles to Angouleme and back last year - so chuffed. I didn't drive all the way!
  12. Hi Troops - perhaps I shouldn't put this here but on the assumption that more members read this here goes. I have magazine articles/cuttings featuring our favourite car and I would love to re-unite these with the current owners, they will go in an A4 envelope and happy to post to you. The registration numbers are: GCL 110F - ERW 798C - ETJ 208F If you pm me, I can post to you Christine
  13. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Troops - just found this on the net which says it all:- ANTIFREEZE IN CLASSIC CARS Advice from Federation of British Historic Vehicle Clubs (FBHVC) Technology moves forward; new products are constantly being launched with claims to improved formulations and performance. With the bitterly cold weather during the winter of 2009/2010, antifreeze has been in the headlines, with some alarming stories in relation to classic cars. At first, these seem to be about the well-known tendency of antifreeze to find the tiniest hole and cause leaks. However, in some cases it has led to catastrophic engine problems. Traditional blue ethylene glycol is a toxic but highly effective antifreeze; it contains silicates as an inhibitor to help prevent corrosion in engines with mixed metals in their make-up. Bluecol and Blue Star are well known brand names; both are declared suitable for ‘classic cars’ on their company websites. Halfords also sells this type of anti-freeze with its own branding. Be aware that there are also low- or no-silicate ethylene glycol formulations (usually red) available which may not be suitable for all engines. Propylene glycol is another well-known and less toxic antifreeze formula and usually contains silicates. However, Comma, the main manufacturer, has now discontinued it in favour of an ethylene glycol product containing ‘bittering agents’ to make it less palatable and minimise the risk of accidental poisoning. Both of these products use inorganic additive technology (IAT). Recently, problems have been reported concerning the use of antifreeze mixtures using organic acid technology (OAT). OAT was introduced in the mid-1990s and the products are biodegradable, recyclable, do not contain either silicates or phosphates and are designed to be longer lasting. However, these products do seem to cause problems in older engines. Over and above the ability of antifreeze to find the smallest crevice and leak, OAT antifreezes have been accused of destroying seals and gaskets and causing a great deal of damage in ‘old’ engines. For this reason, the manufacturers do not recommend their use in historic vehicles. These products are usually coloured red, pink or orange. The final category is HOAT. These products use hybrid organic acid technology in an ethylene glycol base with some silicates in the formulation alongside the organic corrosion inhibitors. The product is usually coloured green and is not recommended for use in historic vehicles. FBHVC is still researching this problem but its current advice is: Only use blue coloured IAT antifreeze in historic vehicles Only use OAT products (‘advanced’ or ‘long life’ antifreeze) if the vehicle used it when new and if specifically directed by the vehicle’s manufacturer Never mix different types of antifreeze without thoroughly flushing out the system Always replace the coolant within the time scale specified by the antifreeze manufacturer as the corrosion inhibitors break down over time
  14. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Rob - thanks for the info, will get details of the make used. Thanks for the info sheet Marcel, I copy and pasted it into Systran for a translation! will put my Scientist hat on! What make do most people use? Hope I can just empty it, flush it through with water and replace with the right one. There’s no rush? Christine
  15. aleda

    Antifreeze

    Hi Troops - my 4a came back from electric fan fit last week with pink antifreeze in the radiator. Always used blue. She’s actually called ‘Betty’ but I’m sure that’s not relevant !!! I’m sure this will have come up on the forum before but I can’t find the thread. Seems like blue is better for older cars? Just got back from SOA and thank you to all the organisers. I haven’t been to many Internationals to compare but I enjoyed the weekend and the area. My dynamo packed up en route so completed the journey there on the battery - am very fortunate to have the A Team in my club who sent me shopping at the auto jumble for the necessary replacement then fitted it not once but twice as the first one I bought didn’t work! Thanks Guys, really appreciate all your work That’s when I suddenly realised I hadn’t swopped the blue antifreeze in my boot for pink! Fortunately there was enough in the rad to get me home. Christine
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