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About Richard71

  • Birthday 05/03/1971

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  1. The search facility doesn't recognise three letter words, I don't know why? In this case it's advised to simply google "engine oil tr register forum", or something like that. Richard.
  2. Thanks for the informative replies gents. I'll put some more miles on the car but may also fit a master cylinder with a larger diameter as suggested by John. Does anyone know where I can buy such a thing and what size I should be looking for? Richard.
  3. The rear calipers have two pistons and the fronts have four, all pistons are 1.38" diameter. The pads are Wilwood branded and described as for street use. Richard.
  4. Hmmm, I'll carry out the usual checks. This is a non standard braking system Neil, I'm not experiencing long pedal travel, pedal travel is absolutely fine. Richard.
  5. Thanks Gents, I cleaned the discs with brake cleaner before fitting. The pads are described as "street use" not "race", I'll give the discs another wipe down with brake cleaner and rough up the pads with a file/rasp and try again, this time following a recognised bed-in procedure. Will report back! Thanks again, Richard. P.S. Re the master cylinder, I conferred with Richard Good (Goodparts) on this wee project, it was never suggested that m/c and piston diameter may conflict.
  6. Hello All, I've just finished a brake upgrade (downgrade?) on all four corners of my TR6, Wilwood calipers, Wilwood pads, new discs all round, original servo & master cylinder re-fitted after having them both reconditioned by Past Parts. The brake pedal is firm with no excessive travel, the car stops, but nowhere near as satisfactorily as with the standard set-up, a longer stopping distance is required. I've only covered 25 miles with the new brakes and drove it normally, not following any particular bedding-in procedure. I felt more comfortable with the standard brakes, but being a sucker for the "bling factor" I went for this Wilwood set-up and they do look good, but won't look very happy if the nose of the car is jammed under a bus! My question to the collective is, how imperative is it to follow a "bedding-in" procedure??? I've changed discs & pads (at the same time) on cars before and simply drove the vehicle normally without any adverse effect. Richard.
  7. Thanks Stuart, I'll keep using the methods advised above, should be ready for a run by the weekend (after other jobs are carried out), let it settle and top up as necessary. Richard.
  8. I see what you mean Hamish, you & the other fellas. Got back to the car half an hour ago and the g/b took another 200ml without any overspill. If not this evening then tomorrow morning and afternoon I'll repeat the exercise. I reckon there's between 1.1lt & 1.3lt in the box now. Thanks all!
  9. Thanks Roger, I'll do that. I have a few more things to be getting on with before I can run the engine, so I'll check the level again before I do run it. Richard.
  10. Update. While removing the filler plug a couple of weeks ago the weld holding the nut to the plug gave way, I eventually managed to remove what was left of the plug and I'm now re-filling with oil. I drained the g/b & overdrive completely to begin with, but I've only managed to get approx. 1lt back in before the oil spills back out again. My question is this, the g/b & overdrive require 2lt of oil, would it be safe for me to run the engine with what I reckon is only 1lt of oil, then re-check oil level after about 10 minutes running at idle? Richard.
  11. The exposed end of the stud is also a good accessory for the withdrawal of copious ammounts of blood from one's head when under the car applying Waxoyl. Richard.
  12. Thanks for the advice guys, though the 1" hole is fine. I ran around in the car for over a year without carpets, it was easy enough to check & top up the gearbox oil, a PO also welded a nut on the square plug to make things easier. I'll try Dave's idea. Thanks again, Richard.
  13. I'm looking for a shortcut to re-filling my gearbox with oil. Before the carpets etc were fitted I accurately measured and cut a hole in the tunnel to access the filler plug, 1" hole with a blanking grommet, easy peasy! I didn't have the time, patience or inclination to fit the carpets & interior trim myself so I employed the services of someone who does, I asked them to fashion some sort of access through the carpeting to the filler plug, but they seem to have forgot that. The carpet feels too tight to roll back and have a look around and find the blanking grommet and I'd really like to avoid removing the "H" frame etc. Can anyone offer some measurements/dimensions for where I can cut a small section ( access flap ) in the carpet to where the filler plug is hiding? I'll hold it back together with Velcro or something like that. Thanks in advance, Richard.
  14. That's right Bruce, tank to inline filter to pump is the only rubber in the entire system. I used talcum powder on all the joints, but found no weepage. Gates Barricade is available on eBay from "Parts in Motion", but they don't sell by the meter, only I think in reels of 4.5 or 7.5 mt. Richard.
  15. I have no idea what colour the hose is underneath the braid, I'm keen to cure this as the smell can be quite over-powering, in the boot only though.
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