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About Richard71

  • Birthday 05/03/1971

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  1. Here's a link to a supplier https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/belgom-products Richard.
  2. Hi Colin, Do a search on eBay, Amazon etc for "Belgom Alu" and/or "Belgom Chrome". These were recommended to me by a metal polisher. As yet I've only tried the Belgom Alu with fantastic results especially on my rear bumpers where the tail pipe heat had caused some ill effects, this stuff & elbow grease brought it back to like new. Richard.
  3. Thanks fellas for the replies..... Roger, I fitted a standard canister assembly this morning, went for 100 mile drive, no improvement unfortunately. Waldi, checked the relief valve too many times to mention, the valve fitted at present is from Chris Witor, highly recommended by other forum users, haven't found any fault there. Neil, the light never illuminates not even a flicker, however, my worry is being stuck in a traffic jam for a prolonged period on a day as hot as we've been having lately, more so as overseas trips will be planned using this car. I think this maybe something I'll just have to live with. Though having said that, I did forget to fit a calibrated mechanical gauge to the "tee" piece before I set off this morning. I will of course report back if I change anything in the near future and have improved pressure. Thanks again, Richard.
  4. Update...…..I fitted the replacement parts last week using new seals and great care & attention, but only found time this evening for a test run. Result, absolutely no improvement, if anything things are a little worse. See photo below, the bolt on the right is the alleged improved item and of course the bolt on the left is the original. To me the new bolt looks as though it would hold the sprung centre section further away from the engine block (note the position of the un-threaded area). Need to get my thinking cap back on. Richard. P.S. The replacement centre section they sent is identical in every way to the original.
  5. Quick update.... I called MOCAL (Think Auto) this morning and described this issue. I was asked for photographs & measurements of the bolt (luckily I had all the parts with me as I was planning a detour into our workshop to clean them prior to re-assembly tonight). I was then told that some years back around the time of my purchase that they had a bad batch of bolts and that I may have one them. My address was asked for and a replacement bolt and for some reason centre section of the filter head is on it's way. I will of course make a comparison of the parts when they arrive, probably Friday, but won't be doing anything with them until Saturday. Hopefully with a successful outcome before a TR group run on Sunday, fingers crossed. Richard.
  6. Agreed, But also....within the filter/head we have oil flowing in two different directions and these two different paths of flow should not be allowed to cross, in my case that's what's been happening. You might say I've had a short circuit in my filter head . Richard.
  7. Hi Waldi, If the threaded tab is allowed to thread up the bolt it can & will prevent the inner seal and it's carrier from mating with the engine block. This I expect will reduce flow & pressure, I can't understand why it's alright at cold temperature. Which asks the question, why have MOCAL threaded this part of the bolt, these threads are surplus to requirements and as I may have discovered a real problem area. Richard.
  8. Hi Waldi, PM sent. Cant answer why the restriction would give this low oil pressure, but a definite problem as been found, and once the filter head is back on we'll know. Richard.
  9. Hi Pete, I'm now sure it's the filter head (fitment) was the problem. As Neil pointed out above, the tab was threaded onto the stud where it's meant to be floating. This tab it would appear should float on the un-threaded section of the bolt. In my case it didn't. Was it like this out of the box, or was it my carelessness, either way I should have paid more attention when installing it. I'll re-fit it when the new seal kit arrives and report back. Richard.
  10. I think I'm understanding what you're saying now Neil. Should it look more like what's in the attached pic...….but with so much free thread, how do we determine the height of the inner section? Anyone got install instructions for this apparatus? Richard.
  11. Just looked, that tab is solid tight on the bolt at the top of the thread. While manipulating trying to prove what you're suggesting I appear to have broken two of the smallest welds I've ever seen, they were holding the tab on the centre section. Richard.
  12. Hello All, Filter head now removed (see pic). The inner seal is a very very poor fit in it's recess, in fact it doesn't fit at all!!! The internal diameter of the seal is too narrow. When the head was removed the seal was stuck to the block, but not in the position you would hope it to be. Did this happen during removal of the head? Hmmm, don't think so! My assumption, it was like this when I fitted it, how did this happen? Could only have been carelessness on my part. Can this be the cause of my low oil pressure contrary to what Jerry suggests? Neil, I worked the bolt with a spanner on the bench, it's locked tight on the spring tab and the whole centre section rotates independently of the filter head. So can't see an issue there. But thanks for the pointer. New seal kit should be here tomorrow. Thanks to all for your input thus far. Richard. Edit..... If as said the centre section rotates independently of the head, then when tightening the bolt the seal will rub & twist against the block for maybe the last half turn or so. Much like what happens with an ordinary spin-on filter, but this seal is flimsy compared with that on a spin-on filter. Maybe an issue, especially if it's ill fitting.
  13. Yes Rob, I should have said, these pressures are backed up with an annually calibrated gauge mounted on a Tee piece by the pressure switch. Will check and report back hopefully this evening. No Duncan, no oil cooler connections on my adaptor.
  14. Jerry, Waldi, I definitely have the later type conversion with the spring. Roger, I can't find the post right now, but it was something Pilkie (Dave Pilkington) mentioned on a topic about them causing low or nil (his exact words) oil pressure. My problem is......cold engine idle around 70psi, hot engine idle almost zero, but not low enough for the warning light to illuminate but low enough to concern me. Engine has around 3000 miles since rebuild, I built it myself so I know all internal gallery plugs etc are in place. I've recently changed the oil pump and relief valve for those supplied by Chris Witor, no change. Tried differing brands of oil, Valvoline VR1 and latterly Castrol Classic (Castrol even lower pressure), differing oil filters, Crossland & K&N, still no improvement. All I can think of left to look at is the spin-on oil filter head, if I have time after work tonight I'll remove it and see if there's anything untoward. New seal kit for the filter head in the post from MOSS. Richard. P.S. The first 1000 miles I ran with the external rocker feed, removed it for the past 2000 miles no difference in pressure, took the rocker cover off at the weekend and there's evidence of a good healthy oil supply to the top end/rocker gear. Richard.
  15. Hello All, I've read here on the forum that some Spin On Oil Filter Adaptors cause reduced oil pressure. Having exhausted every other possibility I now suspect this could be my low oil pressure problem. Does anyone know what the problem with some of these maybe, is there a casting issue to look for when I remove it for examination? Thanks in advance. Richard.
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