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tim hunt

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tim hunt last won the day on December 20 2018

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About tim hunt

  • Birthday 11/02/1945

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1966 TR4A, bought by my late father Sept. 1970
    2007 Volvo V70 D5. Practical, but NOT a driver's car!

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  1. You clearly mean built in October 1966 Phil, and this ties in well with my car, Comm no CTC 73369 O and Engine CT73558 E, both around 200 later than yours with my build date given on Heritage cert as 17/10/66. However, my body number of 73272 CT is 700 later, maybe some numbers weren't used for some reason. Tim
  2. From WM 4A camber should be 0degs +/- 0.5 degs at front and 1 deg -ve +/- 0.5 degs at rear for IRS cars. These measurements static laden, i.e. "68kg on each front seat". ARB was not fitted to the 4A, only became standard on TR6. Tim
  3. tim hunt

    Wiper motor

    A word of warning re replacement wheel boxes Mike. It's highly unlikely you have acquired original NOS Lucas wheel boxes. Be aware that due to poor dimensional control on some repro items it was possible for the rack to come out of mesh with the gear wheels under high torque. Before fitting reproduction parts to the car test them carefully. Fit the rack in a wheel box and then clamp the spindle carefully in a vice to avoid any damage to the splines. Next grip the drive end of the rack with a mole wrench and exert considerable force to ensure that it will not come out of engagement with the pinion at high torque. This can happen, don’t ask me how I know! If the rack does ride over the pinion then separate the two halves of the wheel box and carefully reshape them so that the rack is held in closer contact with the pinion without binding. Repeat the exercise on the second wheel box and pat yourself on the back for having potentially saved yourself a lot of grief! Tim
  4. tim hunt

    Boot seal

    +1 for the Woolies 268A profile for the TR4A boot seal, not that a recommendation from Stuart needs any endorsement! Tim
  5. Interesting Tim. Did you fit the all singing all dancing brackets that handle toe and camber or those that allow camber adjustment only, still relying on shimming to adjust the toe? You don't have a second set of adjustable brackets in stock for sale do you? Good call to helicoil the TA brackets for the hub mounting. I did mine 45+ years ago, drilling and tapping for 5/16 BSF studs and they are still taking the specified 14lbs ft torque no problem. On acquiring the car inn 1970 we found that several of these threads had been stripped and one hub was hanging on by a wing and prayer! Tim
  6. I saw this car on the Bonhams stand at the Game Fair back in July. The bonnet fitted badly and the driver's side door gaps were poor, the side light housings pitted and the stainless trim was missing from the rear of the hard top. The interior looked pretty tidy with original type seats although non-original type head lining. Interesting that the car still has a toughened windscreen (the stress pattern can clearly be seen in the photo) surprising that this has survived so long. Tim
  7. I reckon that's a bit strong. What makes you think my suspension is worn out? At last MOT two weeks ago tester gave no advisories and actually mentioned he found no play anywhere and commented on the polybushing all round. OK maybe rear springs have settled a bit but that's remediable. Tim
  8. Don't shoot the messenger Pete, I was just passing on what the fitter told me. He is really into classics and seemed to know his stuff, he took great pains to get exactly the same toe in each side at the front. I am talking about Discount Tyres at Hemel Hempstead, not the first place I would have thought about taking the TR but I went there on strong recommendation of Harry Dent. Tim
  9. Thanks Peter. Can you tell me the direct relationship between ride height and camber, i.e Xmm increase in ride height = Y degrees decrease in negative camber? It's a long time since 'O' Level geometry! Roger - I have struggled through the Buckeye item you mention in the past. Frankly life's too short and I can't be a**ed to try all brackets in all orientations to achieve desired result, I would rather go to the expense of adjustable brackets if necessary but will try spring spacers first. Tim
  10. Spot on Chris. I am aware, see my separate thread from yesterday under General TR Technical. Tim
  11. No, I meant toe-in. The advice of the fitter was that since the rear camber could not be adjusted as my car is fitted with the standard TA mounting brackets if toe-in were set a bit higher than spec it would even wear out a bit more across the tread. Specifically I have a total rear toe-in of 28' against a spec of max 16'. Tim
  12. I recently noticed excessive inside shoulder wear on both rear tyres. I had the alignment and geometry checked with the car loaded as per manual and we found 2deg 13 min -ve on the near side and 2 deg 24 min -ve on the off side, the spec being 1 deg -ve +/- 30 mins. The rear toe-in was set a little over spec to try and even the wear across the tread. I had two new rears fitted and within 2,500 miles can already see uneven wear. I was looking at adjustable trailing arm brackets but have been advised first to try raising the ride height by fitting spring spacers. Has anyone successfully reduced negative camber by this means and does anyone have an idea what total thickness of spacer I should try in order to give 1.5 degrees more +ve camber? I have standard size 165x80 R15 tyres. My car does not look to be riding low at the rear. I have about 60mm between top of each rear tyre and the wheel arch lip when the car is static laden (the tyres are well inside the wheel arches of course). An increase of 25mm or so in ride height would not look out of place and would even be of benefit in reducing instances of silencer scraping. Tim
  13. Yet another vote for the Vredestein T-Trac 2. I recently needed two new rear tyres shortly before Club Triumph's Ten Countries Run and was concerned since the usual suspects were awaiting new supply from Holland. Luckily Vintage Tyre Supplies of Beaulieu had stock. These tyres continue to impress in both wet and dry conditions. Attached picture was taken on the ascent of a very wet Grossglockner. My co-driver tried to unstick the rears on uphill hairpins but they hung on tenaciously. I clearly need more power! Tim
  14. Completed my ninth Club Triumph Ten Countries Run last week. We finished as usual in the converted monastery Rolduc, just over the Dutch border from Aachen. After the Saturday finish spent three more days touring WWI battlefields/museums in Arras and Ypres areas. Menin Gate Last Post ceremony not to be missed, the three buglers, volunteers from the local fire brigade, sounded as one instrument - superb. Over 2,100 miles door to door in the week, didn't open tool kit once and achieved 33.2mpg overall including Gosssglockner, Gerlos, Sella and many other passes. My co-driver, who drives a sprint-engined TR7 when it is mobile, was pleased with the way my car went, handled and braked. I switched my LED headlight bulbs into a pair of Wipac right hand dip units, which I acquired for Continental motoring years ago, and not one driver flashed us during the whole trip. I switched the light units back to my UK Cibie (Valeo) ones and yesterday submitted the car for an MOT test receiving a clean bill of health with no advisories. No comment was made on the LED headlights or other bulbs. I once received an advisory that the front sidelights were a bit blue and used to just switch for incandescent filament bulbs for test but this time didn't bother. It is very noticeable how much the LED bulbs reduce current draw, really worthwhile on my still dynamo equipped car. I can now have dipped headlights, heater, wipers and overdrive in use while still holding a charge. Tim
  15. This mis-assembly is not uncommon Bob, even a BL dealer got it wrong back in the day when rebuilding my engine, at their expense I might add after they had fitted a new steering rack and carelessly trapped an oil cooler hose that chafed through with predictable results on Bodmin Moor during a Club Triumph RBRR. The fixing should have been designed so the pulley will only fit one way on the crank but poka yoke had not been heard of by the UK motor industry back in the 50s. Tim
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