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tim hunt

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tim hunt last won the day on December 20 2018

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About tim hunt

  • Birthday 11/02/1945

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1966 TR4A, bought by my late father Sept. 1970
    2007 Volvo V70 D5. Practical, but NOT a driver's car!

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  1. Funnily enough Charlie that was my first thought too! Tim
  2. tim hunt

    Headlights

    No Andy, I am afraid not, these are right hand dip for Continental use. A great pity since very keen price! You need Valeo part number 082441 for RHD (left hand dip). Tim
  3. As has been said by many now we have lost one of a kind and a true gent, I can neither recall nor imagine anyone ever having a bad word to say about Derek and that is an epitaph given to few. I remember very well the first time I met him, when I went with father to our first Club Triumph North London meeting in the summer of 1974. Derek made us both very welcome but as soon as he found out our mount was a 4A he proceeded to extol the superior virtues of the live axle TR4 and continued to do so for the next 45 years if prompted! Derek was sad a few months ago to have to part with his one owner from new and truly original TR4, leaving him for the first time in over 60 years without a Triumph of some kind in the garage. However, as he said, advancing years meant that he could no longer do justice to the car by driving it in the manner to which it had become accustomed. The car is now with its new custodian, a Club member, who will cherish it. Entry #1 has been reserved for this car on the 2020 RBRR as a fitting tribute to Derek, who never actually drove it in the event, preferring for some strange reason to use his original factory RHD TR8, MVC 128V, on seven Runs from 1982 - 1994 inclusive. To his surprise we were able to reunite Derek with this car at Bicester Heritage on Drive it Day 2016. RIP Derek Tim
  4. It's a 4A valance Monty. The reversing lights are Wipac after market items I fitted many moons ago, together with a switch on the gearbox. Tim
  5. I had no idea such products were still made Kevin, since cars have had heated rear windows as standard for so long now. The Holden product looks reasonably priced and at 1200mm in length it will go further round the 4A rear screen than mine does. Tim
  6. Both my hard and Surrey tops are completely weatherproof in the worst conditions. I too find Rain-X a benefit and PIAA silicone blades clear the best ( SKR52E from www.tdcautomotive.com when cut in half will provide two blades for TRs 2-6). When rain is expected I also use Holts anti mist spray on the inside of windows. I always have a cloth handy in case it is necessary to clear that annoying area in the centre of the windscreen not reached by the vents. Worth overhauling/ replacing wiper wheel boxes, rack and motor to eliminate slop as much as possible. The Smiths rear screen heater is very effective in clearing/keeping mist at bay - it came from Halfords over 40 years ago - good luck finding one now, I should imagine if one were to come up at an auto jumble the adhesive has probably lost its stick by now! Tim
  7. +1 for 123 Ignition. I fitted an original type, not the 'tune' version, 12 years ago selecting curve 7. Slow speed running smoother, pick up progressive without hesitation and pinking issue from stretched advance springs in 25D4 solved at a stroke. It has literally been fit and forget but, like Pete, I keep the original distributor with adjusted points, condenser and all leads in the boot just in case. So far not needed by me but last year I lent it to a Dutch entrant on Club Triumph's Northern Tour when he had an issue with his TR4 and it saved his weekend. It came back by courier a few days later together with some chocolates for me and beer for the wife from the only Trappist brewery in Holland (Koningshoeven for the aficionados). If you struggle to hold a charge with lamps, wipers and heater in use don't junk the dynamo for an alternator - just fit LED bulbs all round as I did and save 6 amps or so at a stroke! Tim
  8. Thanks for this clarification Richard. I always believed in the maxim that you get what you pay for and was dubious about my NightEye bulbs at sub £20 the pair but so far so good, I cannot detect any falling off in performance so the heat sink of claimed advanced design must be doing its job. Tim
  9. I have the same low cost NightEye LED bulbs as Andy and Roger, so far no issues over nearly one year of use and no problem on recent MOT test. I do not really understand the concerns over heat generation with LED bulbs. I have run through the night with these bulbs illuminated for around ten hours almost continuously and both headlamp glass and bowl remain cool to the touch. They run considerably cooler than incandescent halogens, indeed snow will build up on a headlamp with an LED bulb whereas if a halogen bulb is fitted the extra heat will prevent this! Perhaps a point in favour of halogens but for me although I appreciate the superior illumination provided by the NIghtEyes the real plus is the much reduced power consumption since I am still running with a dynamo. Tim
  10. You clearly mean built in October 1966 Phil, and this ties in well with my car, Comm no CTC 73369 O and Engine CT73558 E, both around 200 later than yours with my build date given on Heritage cert as 17/10/66. However, my body number of 73272 CT is 700 later, maybe some numbers weren't used for some reason. Tim
  11. From WM 4A camber should be 0degs +/- 0.5 degs at front and 1 deg -ve +/- 0.5 degs at rear for IRS cars. These measurements static laden, i.e. "68kg on each front seat". ARB was not fitted to the 4A, only became standard on TR6. Tim
  12. tim hunt

    Wiper motor

    A word of warning re replacement wheel boxes Mike. It's highly unlikely you have acquired original NOS Lucas wheel boxes. Be aware that due to poor dimensional control on some repro items it was possible for the rack to come out of mesh with the gear wheels under high torque. Before fitting reproduction parts to the car test them carefully. Fit the rack in a wheel box and then clamp the spindle carefully in a vice to avoid any damage to the splines. Next grip the drive end of the rack with a mole wrench and exert considerable force to ensure that it will not come out of engagement with the pinion at high torque. This can happen, don’t ask me how I know! If the rack does ride over the pinion then separate the two halves of the wheel box and carefully reshape them so that the rack is held in closer contact with the pinion without binding. Repeat the exercise on the second wheel box and pat yourself on the back for having potentially saved yourself a lot of grief! Tim
  13. tim hunt

    Boot seal

    +1 for the Woolies 268A profile for the TR4A boot seal, not that a recommendation from Stuart needs any endorsement! Tim
  14. Interesting Tim. Did you fit the all singing all dancing brackets that handle toe and camber or those that allow camber adjustment only, still relying on shimming to adjust the toe? You don't have a second set of adjustable brackets in stock for sale do you? Good call to helicoil the TA brackets for the hub mounting. I did mine 45+ years ago, drilling and tapping for 5/16 BSF studs and they are still taking the specified 14lbs ft torque no problem. On acquiring the car inn 1970 we found that several of these threads had been stripped and one hub was hanging on by a wing and prayer! Tim
  15. I saw this car on the Bonhams stand at the Game Fair back in July. The bonnet fitted badly and the driver's side door gaps were poor, the side light housings pitted and the stainless trim was missing from the rear of the hard top. The interior looked pretty tidy with original type seats although non-original type head lining. Interesting that the car still has a toughened windscreen (the stress pattern can clearly be seen in the photo) surprising that this has survived so long. Tim
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