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tim hunt

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tim hunt last won the day on December 20 2018

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About tim hunt

  • Birthday 11/02/1945

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1966 TR4A, bought by my late father Sept. 1970
    2007 Volvo V70 D5. Practical, but NOT a driver's car!

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  1. An update. I bit the bullet and ordered a repro switch. Unfortunately it was poor quality, it checked out OK electrically and the flash and sidelight functions were positive. However, on moving the switch further it would locate in an intermediate position where no contact was made before moving further to operate headlights, the action felt horrible. The seller readily agreed to a return for full credit. One problem I have had for some time with the existing switch is that the threads in the body are stripped and consequently the switch could not be secured to the column cowl and when operating the flasher the whole switch would move. I remembered that around 30 years ago I had helped myself to a column switch from a 13/60 Herald that had been abandoned at the roadside and was being stripped for parts. I examined this and although the connections are not the same as on the 4A switch I noted that the outer housings are and the securing holes on the Herald housing had perfect threads. I took out my existing switch, re-soldered all the contacts and swapped the housing for the Herald one. I re-connected the five wires from the switch and found that it operated perfectly, it also clamps tightly to the column cowl and feels really nice to operate again. Problem solved. Lucas 'Prince of Darkness' comes in for a lot of stick but I reckon the moral here is that when possible it is better to restore an original switch than go for a repro part of dubious quality. Tim
  2. Sorry you are still stuck John. Did you have room to try my suggested method? If so and it failed to do the trick I'm sorry, all I can say is that it worked perfectly for me the last two times I had a stuck plate. Tim
  3. Hi Ricky, I ended up using two types of LED bulb for the panel. Type 1 give a concentrated light in one direction and these were ideal for the main beam, ignition and indicator warning functions. However, I found them poor as instrument bulbs, for those I used Type 2 bubs which give the required spread of light. In both cases the overall length of the bulbs was quite close to the original filament bulbs and I had no clearance issue on the speedo or tacho. Tim
  4. Thanks for the tip Ian. I always make a point of disconnecting the battery before starting any job of an electrical nature. I first plan to disconnect all five leads from the old switch from their bullet connectors then I will connect the corresponding leads on the new switch and try out its functioning. If satisfied I will remove the old switch and carefully compare how the leads are connected to both switches and ensure that there is no risk of a short from the new switch to the column cowl when fitted. Tim
  5. Well, you should know Stuart, sorry John. I guess the technique I outlined is facilitated on my car since I fitted a pushing Kenlowe fan shortly after acquisition and removed both the mechanical fan and its hub extension which, I must say, greatly facilitates changing the thick tractor type fan belt. Tim
  6. Hello John, Sorry to hear of your frustrating problem. After having had this trouble a couple of times during my early ownership of the 4A, when I resorted to a similar rather brutal technique to those suggested, I gave the matter some thought and came up with a much more mechanically sympathetic solution. Please try this trick first, it worked like a dream the last two times I had a stuck clutch. Remove spark plugs to eliminate engine compression. Engage handbrake firmly or have an assistant lock the wheels with the foot brake and chock front and rear wheels securely. Select a gear and fully depress the clutch by wedging a piece of wood of the right length between the pedal and the seat runner. Fit a socket (1/2Whitworth 9/16BS on my car) on the crankshaft bolt. Next simply fit a suitable T-bar on the socket and exert a clockwise turning force. Both times I was able easily to exert sufficient force with just a 12” T-bar to free the flywheel from the clutch driven plate. In more stubborn cases a longer T-bar could be used or a snug fitting length of pipe over a short T-bar for extra torque. I am pleased to say that these days the car is used far too frequently for the clutch ever to stick! Kind regards to you and Sue, Tim
  7. All earths checked out fine. I have bitten the bullet and ordered a new switch and will be checking it out very thoroughly before fitting. At least it won't have to last 53 years as the original Lucas one did, I rebuilt that one twice over the years after the contacts burnt out so it owes me nothing. Fitting relays for dip and main beam solved the problem of burnt contacts. Tim
  8. Good thought Bob, might try this. After all it's not as if the knob has to be pulled out and I guess very little force is required to rotate it. Paul, I used small pieces of self adhesive hook and loop tape as shown. When not in use the PVC sheet stows in the door pocket taking up hardly any of the limited space therein. Tim
  9. Contact HowardB on here Barry. He had one of these made for him and I believe it proved successful. Tim
  10. When checking the car over I just noticed a weird issue. If I have sidelights on and operate the headlamp flasher the front side lights, tail lights and all the instrument illumination bulbs are extinguished for as long as I hold the flasher switch back. If I have dipped headlights on and operate the headlamp flasher the same bulbs are extinguished. This also happens if I operate the flasher with the headlights already on main beam. However, if I operate the dip switch to bring the main beams on the side, tail and panel bulbs remain illuminated. Any ideas? It looks like I may be looking for a replacement light switch, any suggestions as to a decent quality source? I had a bad experience with a reproduction 'Lucas' indicator switch a while back. Tim
  11. Thanks Bob. the required modification is beyond my skill level so will stick with my current bodge. The brighter panel lights have accentuated the reflection from the chrome speedo and tacho bezels, which create unwanted virtual images on the screen. To eliminate this issue for night driving I have a removeable piece of PVC leathercloth which attaches by Velcro to the heater vent, it can just be seen in the attached. Tim
  12. Bob, If this is available as a direct replacement for the existing rheostat could you please advise source. Many thanks. Tim
  13. I have LED instrument panel bulbs Pete, to reduce current draw on my dynamo equipped car, and the existing rheostat has zero effect. The lights are a bit too bright for my taste, the tape is just to dim the light to a more acceptable level. I have a small circular piece of blue insulating tape on the speedometer glass covering the main beam warning light for the same reason. Tim
  14. The May 1965 Autocar Road Test of the 4A stated --- "The new walnut veneer dashboard is very well fitted and stands up admirably to Californian sunshine, we are told. It is slightly marred by two clumsily cut holes for warning lights between the main instruments, but otherwise gives a nice touch of luxury." I reckon it was rather too soon to comment on West Coast longevity of the veneered dash but that's another story. The warning lights on my car were not central in their apertures when the car was built and this always annoyed me. Some years ago, when I fitted a replacement dashboard and matching door cappings I took the opportunity of judiciously modifying the holes in the panel with a rat tail file thus allowing the warning lights to be repositioned exactly centrally. I also arranged for the cut outs on the bezels to be at 3 and 9 o'clock - what an anorak! Tim
  15. +1 Good spot Waldi. Better not send you any pics of my car! Tim
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