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tim hunt

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About tim hunt

  • Birthday 11/02/1945

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  • Location
    Hertfordshire UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1966 TR4A, bought by my late father Sept. 1970
    2007 Volvo V70 D5. Practical, but NOT a driver's car!

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  1. There is little difference in the gap between the hard top and backlight frame on both sides, as can be seen. I am aware that the windscreen frame is slightly more steeply raked on the passenger side than the driver's, the angles between frame and door top being 57 degs and 58.5 degs respectively. Some time ago I tried adjusting the rake on the passenger side but this only created a problem in fitting the hard top. Also, when the hard top was firmly bolted in position it simply pulled the frame back to where it had been. I remain convinced that the solution is to have a piece of 5mm glass cus
  2. Thanks Pete, I'll give this a try. Tim
  3. My driver's door glass is exemplary with nicely uniform gaps at front and rear to the windscreen and backlight frames whilst the top edge of the glass perfectly folllows the curve of the hard top and gives a good seal all along its length. The passenger side door glass is a different story. When the glass is fully raised there is a 9.5mm gap betweeen windscreen frame and glass at the bottom but only a 2mm gap at the top. However, I have a uniform gap to the backlight frame of 9mm all the way along the rear edge of the glass. As for the top edge of the glass at the front it is almost fouli
  4. I foolishly used some solvent to remove a small adhesive residue from my dash top crash pad and it has left a shiny area that can probably be discerned in the attached picture. Has anyone an idea as to how I might dull this area down to match the matt finish of the rest of the pad? Tim
  5. d2 I commend the checks recommended in an old Smiths Instruments booklet 'The Care of Instruments'. It is too large a file to attach here ( ~6mB) so if you PM me your email address I will send that way. Following thethr recommended checks and inner drive lubrication instructions on my speedo resulted in a perfectly steady needle, which had perviously oscilated wildly around a mean reading at any speed up to an indicated 30mph. Tim
  6. Thanks again Kevin. I ordered this cap from Upgrade Motorsport and it fitted. Hopefully my days of forever cleaning the rust coloured mess off the brake m/c and cap are now over! Tim
  7. I cannot imagine why a PO would have fitted TR5/6 type louvre assemblies to a 4A. Not only do they look wrong to the cognoscenti but they offer no benefit and actually provide less flow of fresh air than the grille vents fitted to the TR4/4A. Tim
  8. Thanks for the lead Kevin - looks promising. I have messaged the seller asking if the cap is a direct replacement for and with the same thread as the Girling alloy cap part number 510844. Tim
  9. I am sure I am not alone in being plagued by apparent corrosion between the brake and clutch master cylinder bodies and their caps, which requires cleaning off at regular intervals. This brown mess looks like rust but of course cannot be since the cylinders and caps are an aluminium alloy of some sort. Some time ago I sourced a plastic replacement cap for the clutch m/c, as below, but so far have been unable to find anything similar for the brake m/c. I need a cap with an internal thread diameter of 62.5mm. Has anyone ever found such an item and if so could they please point me to a source.
  10. I bought Night Eyes bulbs, as in pictures John. Now rebranded Novsight I believe. Pair cost ~£18 three years ago. I was dubious at that price but no problems to date and bulbs fitted as direct replacements in existing headlamp bowls. Beam pattern well controlled on dip and no problems of dazzle for oncoming drivers. Excellent view ahead along nearside of road. Tim
  11. That's fine Denis, provided that if it ever comes to removing the hub you can remember which stud you first have to remove! Tim
  12. Mike, I too was an early adopter of the 123, fitting a non-tunable version in July 2007. I have done nearky 70K miles since with no trouble whatsoever from the 123, including over 10K miles Continental touring. Since your car now runs fine with a replacement distributor the 123 seems confirmed to have been at fault. i would be interested to know what the problem was with it should you find out in due course. Tim
  13. +1 The fact that one can quieten a squeaking fan belt most effectively with a quick spray of WD40 without the belt slipping suggests to me it is NOT a lubricant.
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