phil Dean

Good point I will give it a try Phil

all sorted now thanks for every bodies advice. Cut and copied for future reference. However I wonder about Stuarts suggestion of having the brakes under pressure over night would that not put undue pressure on the seals and pistons. Phil.

Yep that about sums it up Phil

sorry guys I think yo have misunderstood, its wiping ok in the middle of the screen its on the right hand edge where it wont wipe as the blade is stuck out. Please see pics below for explanation or more confusion on my part.

A few months ago when I was swooping my 4A wiper motor to a 6 Wiper motor with all the help from the people on here, I noticed the drivers side wiper arm was not clearing the screen right in the middle of the blade right in my line of sight. So I swooped both the drivers and passenger wiper blades. The passenger 1 is brilliant but the drivers one although it now clears the centre of the arc towards the drivers door, the far right of the blade its not touching the screen and therefore giving a blind spot when it wipes . As it moves up it clears the rest of the screen with no problem just on the

Unfortunately on this occasion I am going to have to give it to a professional, I have a ongoing skin problem with my hands and wrists which has flared up again over the past few days still awaiting biopsy results !!! but was told to keep the hands and wrists as clean and dry as possible I don't think brake fluid will help this situation and using neoprene gloves makes it worse. I need the car for an event a week on Saturday otherwise I would have left it and waited until the itchiness had subsided but I don't want to make the situation worse at the moment. In my 18 months of owners

ok thanks for that Jim.

Jim I have read your post a few times surely if you keep pumping the fluid back into the reservoir the air will keep recirculating back into the system or do the bubbles float to the top. Or have I misunderstood. Phil

Yep I know its a simple subject but I always seam to get conflicting answers when I ask this question. I am going to replace the brake master cylinder on my 4A still getting a small amount of brake fluid in the cage. First question were do you bleed it down from. Looking at the pipes it looks like the nearside front cylinder is the nearest one following the pipes. I did think of removing the fluid out of the master cylinder using a syringe then using a small amount of foot pumping to see if I can force fluid past the joint were it connects the brake pipe to the m/cylinder. When it comes t

Yep I did mine about 6 months ago on my own lying under the car, It cost me a bruised finger nail .I covered the fuel pipes with a thin sheet of metal which was a good job because the diff shifted that way and put a substantial dent in the metal !!! Putting it back I made up a 4 sided wooden buck which held the diff in place as I jacked it up then used small luggage straps to gently pull it into the correct place and onto the studs.Not an easy job and yes I did manage to slightly damage one of the exhaust clamps as well, although managed to get the diff out and back in without taking the bac

Yes defiantly all the fluid is to the side of the brake master cylinder against the cage side and a small amount directly under the body of the brake master cylinder the clutch side is totally dry. Marco I have slightly tightened the brake pipe a few weeks ago after discovering the leak and the is no fluid anywhere near the brake pipe coming into the body of the cylinder or underneath it. Phil

Back to this again. Took the car out for a decent drive on Thursday, probably 70 miles. When I got to my destination I checked for any signs of leaking brake fluid in the cage under the master cylinder. There was nothing. However on my return to home a small amount of leakage as before. Checked the car this afternoon not used it since Thursday and a lot more as appeared. Looked behind the cylinder rubber cover and the area seams dry. Is there some form of capillary action happening here I dont know about !! Also as above there is a breather hole in the top of the clutch master cylinder bu

Ok Thanks for that I think I am going to park this for the time being I have been thinking about converting the switch to also go from dip to main beam ,Going back to 2019 I found a couple of useful articles on this subject at the same time I still don't have the horn push working off the centre of the steering wheel its wired thro a flick switch something which I cant get on with, therefore it looks like one of those winter jobs,try and achieve all 3 in on go. Back to sorting out the small leak on the hydraulic master cylinder, prior to using the car on a event in early October, then I can st

I've checked behind the rubber for the master cylinder and there is a very small amount of moisture there, unlike the clutch master cylinder which is dry apart from a small amount of grease. Question is where do I get new seals from I am so concerned that I don,t get some cheap chinese copies. Also should there be a small breather hole in the master cylinder cap there is one in the clutch master cylinder but not the brake master cylinder both caps are plastic. Phil.

I understand what Stuart says but now I have looked there is no solid brown wire from the stalk/switch on the column or where it comes out of the cable tray attached to the steering column under the dash, every other wire is there and wired as people and drawings have described. Phil.