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JeffR

TR Register Members
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About JeffR

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    jeff.roberts94

Profile Information

  • Location
    Camberley
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3
    TR4
    E-Type S24.2FHC
    Porsche Boxster

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  1. As Bob has pointed out it's item 57. I don't recall raising it with Moss at the time - I think I was so p.....d off about it I took the view it was fairly typical of the poor quality of many of their parts. The last time I complained to them I did it personally when I was in their London shop. It was regarding a ball joint for the top vertical link of the front suspension on my TR4. The taper pin was too wide (12mm) to the extent the pin wouldn't seat fully in the link and stood proud. They swore me blind it was standard and was what they supplied to everyone else. This was despite m
  2. Hi Bob, Hadn't realised it was the whole starter you were speaking of. No, I have one that works fine except that new bushes seem to have gone extinct. Thanks anyway. Cheers, JEFF
  3. Hi Bob, Thank you for your prompt reply and kind offer. I could potentially be interested in that as I have rebuilt the starter motor but using a new Moss bush - so it would be easy to change it over. The last working bush I had was an NOS one from Revingtons which cost much money and lasted a couple of years before delamination. It's last breath was on its return from the last day of the Liege-Brescia - Liege Rally in 2019. This ultimately involved a couple of crew members from Brittany Ferries having to give me a push start to drive the car off the ferry on arrival in Blighty - very emb
  4. When the field windings on the original Lucas starter for my TR4 burned out a couple of years ago I had the starter motor rebuilt by firm in London. They did an excellent job at a cost far less than buying a replacement motor (original restored or hi torque). The repaired starter has worked without fault ever since. This is my much preferred solution. Unfortunately, while I would prefer to continue to use my original 'bomb type' starter motor for my TR3 I had to replace it with a WOSP in 2019. The reason for this is that the 'bomb type' motor has a metalastic axial bush on the shaft of t
  5. The hood stows in the hollow backrest not in the boot! JeffR
  6. Be careful! The vertical link ball joint sold by Moss and many of the other usuals when I last purchased one a few years ago is the wrong size. The taper pin is too wide and will not sit correctly in the link. The nut is also larger than the standard size used on the TR4. I reported this to Moss and they replied this is the one they usually supply - even though I was able to show an original of the correct size. I eventually sourced the correct size from Revingtons - and a few days later also found a correct sized QH NOS ball joint. I don't know if Moss has since changed their offeri
  7. I've just fitted a set of TRW rear cylinders as supplied by Moss to my TR4. Are these the cylinders affected? JEFF
  8. Thank you to everyone who offered their help to resolve this issue - in the course of which I met and spoke with several wonderful people on the island. At the end of the day I wasn't able to source any pads, new or used on the IOM but instead received a new set from Rimmers who were very helpful in organising a 24hr delivery via UPS to my hotel - in plenty of time for me to fix the car and catch our ferry back. This is in contrast to the response I received from their biggest rivals who told me the only way I'd get a new set of pads quickly was by personally visiting one of their branche
  9. Thank you both for your very helpful replies. I’That certainly helps to spread the net and gives more options. I’ll follow up. Regards, JeffR
  10. I am currently touring the Isle of Man in my late model TR4. I urgently need a new set of front brake pads. If anyone on the island has a spare set I would be most grateful. cheers, JeffR
  11. On my TR3 I don't have a rubber plug to enable access to the nut on the inner side of the fixing. I use a ring spannerfrom underneath on the nut. The body of the bolt can be stopped from turning while the nut is undone by jamming a suitable sized flat bladed screwdriver between the head of the bolt and the body of the shocker. Replace the existing bolts with new cap headed bolts ensuring that correctly sized washers are used on both sides of the fixings. In particular, a washer is needed between the bolt heads and the body of the shocker that fit snuggly in the body of the shocker. This
  12. I've never looked back since purchasinga tilting lift from CJ Autos. A great tool that will fold up and fit in the boot of a mini if necessary and at a cost new of around £400. The photo below shows the lift only partially raised - it will raise around another foot further on the horizontal and tilt North/South so that you can sit in a comfortable chair while working on the underside of the front or rear of the vehicle with all wheels off. Only drawback is you do need sufficient width to roll the lift under the car from the side before raising it. JeffR
  13. +6 for re core. I had my original re cored six months ago with an upgraded matrix and the elimination of the starting handle hole. Never suffered an overheating issue with the previous core or the new one. Reason for the re core was as a result of metal fatigue in the soldered joint at the filler neck. As previously mentioned in earlier posts a known weak area. Your quote of £300 does seem a little on the high side, so it's worth looking around. From memory I think mine cost £230 from Bagshot Radiators - a company I've used before to re core the rad on my E-Type. Contrary to their name th
  14. The problem is that the top door hinge is not the correct size for the car. The throw out from the A post is far too large. I suggest you measure the hinge against an original before messing with the other bodywork dimensions Cheers, JeffR
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