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RobTR3

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    155
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About RobTR3

  • Birthday 06/03/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Swansea
  • Cars Owned:
    1957 TR3 'Smallmouth'
    Mitsubishi Barbarian X Pickup 2019

Recent Profile Visitors

665 profile views
  1. Yep, looks exactly like mine. Rob
  2. Pete Don't buy the updated engine mounts, they are too harsh for road use. I tried them and immediately swapped them out for standard mounts. There is too much resonance which will be very noticeable compared with well worn and softened rubber on the old mounts. Access is mainly from above, but you can get at the lower steady bracket from below (TR3) for additional access. I also removed the dynamo and disconnected the hose/steel pipe on the nearside from the water pump housing and pushed it towards the water pump clear of nearside mount. Both give you a better chance to get spanner
  3. Neil Glad you got it sorted. I don,'t recall where I got my o' rings from but it was probably Moss and I've had no leaks since, so you should be OK. I found the biggest issue was re-adjusting the solenoid correctly as the W/M method doesn't result in enough adjustment. I find I have to move the adjusting lever incrementally off centre to the hole in the overdrive casing until I get the overdrive to engage - trial and error! What fun we have. Rob
  4. Neil/Roy I did this job a couple of years ago and I definitely removed the cover plate, as far as I can remember to get at the o' ring. I don't remember it being on the outside of the cover plate. The diagram in the Moss book, does show it on the outside which is a bit confusing admittedly. The only other reason to remove the plate would be to renew the gasket, but it was a leaking o' ring I had to replace. Perhaps other members can clarify. The o' ring on the R/H side is a tap out of the rolled pin on the adjustment lever, which is then removed, and the o' ring pushed on. I did thi
  5. Item 55 is an o' ring that is probably the cause of the leak. You will need to take off the solenoid and the bracket/cover plate (53) two bolts and two nuts on studs, release them evenly as there is a strong spring pushing behind the plate. The o' ring is pushed on to the operating shaft and forms an oil seal when the cover plate is tightened up. Renew the gasket 52 and fit/ re-adjust the solenoid. Good luck. Rob .
  6. You can also change the O ring seals (2), either side of the overdrive operating shaft. Remove adjustment lever R/H side, and solenoid, cover plate L/H side and slide the O rings onto the shaft. Rob
  7. The steel ones are mild steel and will rust from the inside out over time, they are not as durable as the original tanks. I bought an aluminium tank from Alicool. Be aware that tanks from the two main suppliers are not made to the correct dimensions (TR3 experience) and are therefore difficult if not impossjble to install correctly. I'm speaking from bad experience. Rob
  8. After a lot of searching (they are hard to come by), I was able to purchase an original Jack which I re-painted in it's original colours of red with a black base, I also have the correct ratchet to go with it. It's not the fastest way to lift a car, but it's secure. I also have a complete toolkit incl. wheel brace & starting handle as supplied by Triumph. It's nice to have and use the original tools for the car. Rob
  9. I had a CSI and run it for 4 years or so on a standard TR3 engine. It ran on curve 12 without any issues - then it developed a problem, it appeared the automatic advance had packed in, wouldn't pull on any sort of power demand. Luckily, I still had the old Lucas dizzy which I had rebuilt by DD. Once installed, everything back to normal. Would never go back to an automatic, let alone CSI, nii response from them! Problem with auto's, once they go wrong there is nothing you can do. Rob
  10. On Discovery channel last night (11/01/2021). West Coast USA one owner TR4 in BRG stored for 20 years. Changed - clutch, RMS. Water pump, dynamo, new door skin, new wheels etc - not complete restoration but looked good. Bought for £5000 sold for £12,000. Worth watching. Rob
  11. Well done Bob. I've been following your posts from the start and I've learnt a lot. Some of it a bit daunting to say the least, particularly the machining you've done, I wouldn't be able to do that. The tappet clearances are a lot compared with standard and causing the 'tappety' engine running. Perhaps you can experiment/reduce the clearances after you've run the engine for some time. As you say, relief it's up and running, a nice Xmas present. Merry Xmas Rob
  12. I gave up on the banjo connectors on my SU's and bought new fuel bowl lids with the straight on brass pipe fittings. I use a short length of rubber hose with a jubilee clip to secure them to the fuel pipes. On the banjo fittings I tried new washers and used heldite but couldn't get them to seal reliably. Rob
  13. Rim tapes are used to cover the spoke ends where they enter the wheel rim. They protect the inner tube, where fitted, and help to provide an air tight seal. Rob
  14. Richard You normally grease a pipe bending tool in the pipe channel to ease the pipe along as you bend it to shape. The key point is not to be too hasty when bending the pipe and just try and bend it around in one go. Do it slowly and ease the pipe along the pipe bender bit by bit to get the shape you want. Rob
  15. Kunifer pipe is harder and stiffer to bend, copper pipe is softer and bends very easily. I use a pipe bender. Even so you still need to go carefully as it is easy to kink the pipe. Make sure the pipe bender is well greased and go slowly. Don't hold the pipe tight on the bender, ease it round with minimal contact. You should be able to go as far as a 'U' bend if your careful. Just take your time. Good luck. Rob
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