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About RobTR3

  • Birthday 06/03/1948

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  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    1957 TR3 'Smallmouth'
    Mitsubishi Barbarian X Pickup 2019

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  1. On Discovery channel last night (11/01/2021). West Coast USA one owner TR4 in BRG stored for 20 years. Changed - clutch, RMS. Water pump, dynamo, new door skin, new wheels etc - not complete restoration but looked good. Bought for £5000 sold for £12,000. Worth watching. Rob
  2. Well done Bob. I've been following your posts from the start and I've learnt a lot. Some of it a bit daunting to say the least, particularly the machining you've done, I wouldn't be able to do that. The tappet clearances are a lot compared with standard and causing the 'tappety' engine running. Perhaps you can experiment/reduce the clearances after you've run the engine for some time. As you say, relief it's up and running, a nice Xmas present. Merry Xmas Rob
  3. I gave up on the banjo connectors on my SU's and bought new fuel bowl lids with the straight on brass pipe fittings. I use a short length of rubber hose with a jubilee clip to secure them to the fuel pipes. On the banjo fittings I tried new washers and used heldite but couldn't get them to seal reliably. Rob
  4. Rim tapes are used to cover the spoke ends where they enter the wheel rim. They protect the inner tube, where fitted, and help to provide an air tight seal. Rob
  5. Richard You normally grease a pipe bending tool in the pipe channel to ease the pipe along as you bend it to shape. The key point is not to be too hasty when bending the pipe and just try and bend it around in one go. Do it slowly and ease the pipe along the pipe bender bit by bit to get the shape you want. Rob
  6. Kunifer pipe is harder and stiffer to bend, copper pipe is softer and bends very easily. I use a pipe bender. Even so you still need to go carefully as it is easy to kink the pipe. Make sure the pipe bender is well greased and go slowly. Don't hold the pipe tight on the bender, ease it round with minimal contact. You should be able to go as far as a 'U' bend if your careful. Just take your time. Good luck. Rob
  7. I agree with Ianc, that it's a likely airlock. I had a similar problem after fitting a new tank, no fuel getting to the fuel pump. I filled the tank half full and undid slightly the braided hose to fuel pump to release any air. Fuel started to come through, I re-tightened the connection, but the bowl on the pump didn't fill. I then slackened the furled nut on the base of the bowl when fuel then started to fill the bowl, waited until nearly full, then tightened the furled nut. Rob
  8. I have had problems to previously with fitting and sealing the outlet pipe. I think the following is important to have the best chance. Always use a new olive. Ensure the pipe is straight where the olive sits and push the olive along the pipe 1/2 inch or so (see below). Ensure the pipe goes into the boss so that it protrudes a 1/4 inch or so into the tank itself. This will ensure the olive can get a good grip on the pipe and a firm seating in the boss dome. Do not overtighten first of all as you may distort the olive. Tighten sufficiently and then check for leaks with enoug
  9. If you've bought from one of the usual TR suppliers, test it before you fit. I bought a replacement engine block tap some time ago and it leaked through its shut off valve, absolutely useless, I sent it back for a refund. Stand it on it's end with the tap closed and put a small drop of water at the end that screws into the engine, after a few minutes see if it's leaked past the valve. In the end I fitted a standard plumbing brass blanking plug with the thread wrapped in plumbers tape. Never leaked after that. Sorry, can't remember the thread size. Rob
  10. Hmm, point taken Stuart. I wouldn't be comfortable with a torch near the car anyway. Rob
  11. Thanks for that Bob, I will try it. It'll also try a short length of steel tube over the head of the pin with a washer and screw in the appropriate size bolt into the pin head as per wsm. Revington recommend heating the chassis boss whilst screwing the bolt into the head and levering out. Based on comments by yourself and others, I'll stick with new standard springs rather than uprated. Rob
  12. OK, thanks Richard. Did you drain the fuel tank and disconnect the fuel pipe? Rob
  13. Richard I know you did this job quite recently as I read the posts. Can you list the necessary steps to raise the rear body? PM me if you wish. I am OK with the rest of the job as I've done everything previously i.e. new shackle bushes, shocks, drop links and bump stops, other than removing the front pin. Rob
  14. I am thinking (seriously) of buying new rear springs for my TR3 as a 1st phase. The 2nd phase when I get enough courage, will be an attempt to fit them! My 1st phase dilemma is which ones to get? Should I just replace with standard or go for uprated ones e.g. Moss offerings. I understand that the standard ones are on the soft side, but would the uprated ones be too hard for ordinary motoring? I recently changed the lever arm dampers to re-furbished and uprated (15 percent) dampers by Stevson Motors. As such I am inclined to go for the uprated ones. Any advice appreciated. Rob
  15. I changed the mountings in the last few days having bought the updated ones from Revington. Just about double the cost, but worth it for the long term I feel. Apart from the rubber being harder the centre pin is a shorter and smaller diameter than the standard mountings which does help with installation as it allows more flexibility when positioning between chassis and engine plate. I have attached photos of the old mountings. The photos show how much the steady brackets had pressed into the rubber mount and distorted the ru bber mount forward. The rubber had gone soft and was splitting where
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