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RobTR3

TR Register Members
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    173
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About RobTR3

  • Birthday 06/03/1948

Profile Information

  • Location
    Swansea
  • Cars Owned:
    1957 TR3 'Smallmouth'
    Mitsubishi Barbarian X Pickup 2019

Recent Profile Visitors

964 profile views
  1. Peter That's very kind of you. Thanks very much. PM on it's way. Rob
  2. Peter That is the intention. I have a re-cored radiator with the starting handle hole and I just want to get the Dog bolt set-up right. Rob
  3. These shims are not currently available via Moss etc. My question is whether there is anything special about them or can I use plain washers to adjust the position of the dog Bolt head. The head position is important to allow the starting handle to engage at the optimum point. If these shims are different to plain washers, does anyone know where they are obtainable from or have any they would like to pass on - cost/postage I would cover. Many thanks Rob
  4. kev I renewed both springs some time ago as the ones on the car were not a match. I bought them from Moss. Whether they are too strong, I don't know. I have put the replaced springs back just to see if there was a difference, but the result is the same. I don't think the choke mechanism is up to the job, it's not strong enough to counter act the spring strength. John Thanks for forwarding a suggested remedy from Tom, your friend. I did try his method, but to no avail. I think I understood it correctly. I've been looking at a universal choke Cable, pull and twist to lock.
  5. Ian I fitted the seal to the hardtop first and then fitted the glass, I did not use glue or even a sealant. It is essential to have the glass/perspex the right size. If it's slightly too big in places it will compress the seal and close the insert gap making it difficult to fit the filler seal. If too small in places you will not get the seal over the glass sufficiently to form a grip/seal. However, all being well the insert seal really does tighten up the main seal to the glass and frame. As for the insert seal tool, I have one you can buy off me for £15 to include postage. It is comple
  6. Roger, thanks for your reply and the previous posts on this topic. An update! Took the new cable out and extracted the inner cable, the half moon is there and as mentioned will hold on half way out. I think what is happening is the return springs on the jet lever linkage when fully extended are too strong for the cable half moon to hold the pull lever in place, it just pulls past the notch, as the springs retract there is less tension and the half moon can cope. As such, I've cleaned and oiled the "old" cable which now operates no worse than the new one and re-installed it. The Moss
  7. This weekend I fitted a new choke Cable bought from Moss. The old one would only pull out to about the second notch visible and wouldn't extend fully. I believe this was causing poor cold starting as the carb. jets were not being pulled down enough. Anyway, the new cable extends fully, 3 or 4 notches showing and the jets noticeably further extended, although it does require at times a two handed effort to pull the knob out fully. However, the cable will not lock in the extended position. I can turn the knob to the right, push the cable back, turn the knob back to level and it will lock at
  8. If you bought your R&P kit from TR shop, then they also sell a "Steering Rack Conversion Ring" so that you can retain your original horn and indicator assembly. I've no experience of this part, but give them a call. Not cheap though £174 - ouch! Rob
  9. Colin There are two o'rings on the operating shaft that goes side to side through the width of the overdrive. The one you are referring to sits behind the cover plate on the solenoid side. To change this you need to - 1 Remove the solenoid and pinch bolt. 2 Remove the two bolts and two stud nuts that hold the cover plate to the overdrive. Undo them progressively as there is a strong spring pushing against the cover plate from within the overdrive unit. Withdraw the cover plate. 3 The o'ring sits in a recess on the inside of the cover plate. Prise out the old o' ring, p
  10. I use a 30mm 1/2" drive socket. And there is a gasket. Rob
  11. Another area to check is the jet lever or rod link to the cam. If the cam isn't positioned at the correct angle then the link is too vertical and it is very difficult to pull the choke as the lever can't push the cam upwards. I am forever playing around with the positioning of the cam between been able to pull the choke easily and achieving the correct tickover! Rob
  12. I had a CSI and it was fine for a few years then I started getting a few ignition problems, missing etc. Eventually, although I could start the car, when out on the road one day I had a complete lack of power to get up the most moderate of inclines. Tried and replaced ignition leads, cap, coil etc, but no improvement. I then replaced the CSI with the original Lucas. Problem solved in respect of power loss, but I had Distributer Doctor rebuild the unit - it comes back like new - would never fit an electronic unit again. I reckon the automatic advance had failed in the CSI. I emailed CSI about t
  13. Yes Roger it could be swiveled over, might have to undo connection to fuel pump as well and reposition pipe. It would look better, but the pipe isn't kinked as it is. Rob
  14. You have a point Roger, but the fuel tap is angled towards the inner wing and is probably 45 degrees to the fuel pump and close to the wing(see attached photo), perhaps it could be angled as straight as the fuel pump and then your suggestion would work ok. Revington sell this specification pipe for this very purpose, so there must be a valid reason. Rob
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