JeffR

Hi Bob, My 4 doesn't actually have a tap, instead it has a threaded plug as many late TR4s do. So, yes, I removed the plug first. Regards. JEFF

Yes, indeed Peter. None of the poking has ever worked before? Don't read too much into this. Cheers, JefR

Earlier this week I decided to flush the cooling system of my TR4 before refilling with new coolant ready for the new season. I drained the rad and refilled with a solution of Prestone radiator and engine coolant flush and then ran the car on idle for an hour before draining it. Before starting, I already knew that the outlet at the bottom of the block where the drain tap is was blocked with sediment and had been for several years with all previous attempts to clear it having failed. Again this time, after having spent an hour or so trying to clear it with various tools and bent

Voltage on the X 8v. Problem solved - dirty fuse contacts! Thanks all for your assistance. JEFFR

Hello All, To update you on the tests I've done so far; Dynamo output (as suggested by Stuart). Connecting a wire between the D and F terminals on the dynamo and running the car at 1,000 rpm gives a reading of 14.5 - 15v. Measuring the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running produces a reading of 13.25 - 13.5v. Next step is to check the voltage from the X terminal on the flasher unit. I'll also try reinstalling the new battery to see if it makes any difference. Thank you all for your assistance so far. JEFFR

Hello All, To update you on the tests I've done so far; Dynamo output (as suggested by Stuart). Connecting a wire between the D and F terminals on the dynamo and running the car at 1,000 rpm gives a reading of 14.5 - 15v. Measuring the voltage across the battery terminals when the engine is running produces a reading of 13.25 - 13.5v. Next step is to check the voltage from the X terminal on the flasher unit. I'll also try reinstalling the new battery to see if it makes any difference. Thank you all for your assistance so far. JEFFR

Bob, yes, the flying lead is earthed. This lazy flashing also ocurred using the original flasher and normal bulbs One other consideration is that the replacement dynamo I fitted was brand new from one of the usuals. I had requested a positive earth unit but after fitting it and starting the car, I noticed it was tagged negative earth. I had noticed on first starting the car that the ignition warning light stayed on for a few seconds longer than normal before it extinguished . As the dynamo was by then showing a health charge on the ammeter I assumed that the dynamo had self polarized? Cou

Thank you all for your replies. A few things to follow up on there - I'll report back. Bob, the flasher unit is the Classic Car Lighting positive earth electronic pot shaped one with the wire coming out of the centre - albeit I have the same results using my original steam powered flasher unit using original bulbs. I don't think it is the battery as a brand new battery - whilst working OK re: the flasher when first fitted soon settles down to the same old problem after its been on the car and driven for a day or two - suggesting it is the charging circuit. I'll also take the advice g

For some time now I've had a problem with the speed of the flashers on my 4 when the engine is idling (like at a junction). They very quickly become very slow or stop altogether. When the engine revs increase the flash returns to a normal rate. In an attempt to address this I've just retrofitted my flasher system to LEDs using an electronic flasher unit, all purchased from Classic Car Lighting and as used on my TR3 which work fine. I now have a similar problem with the newly installed LEDS on my 4 as I've described above for the normal bulbs. Very slow and dim flashes at idle speed w