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T Rusty

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  1. As a TR3A driving, travel loving, bird watching amateur mechanic this post had it all. Mick, thanks for your very detailed answers. Lots of stuff in there I’ll re-read many times. Ewan let us know how things progress. Paul
  2. Hello Christian, I’m up near Frankfurt. A friend gave me this small poster in hoch Deutsche that even non-speakers can understand and which now hangs in my garage. And I have many, many bolts from TR3 A and TR3 needing the acid treatment. Paul
  3. Re hinges. The good news, the hinges have absolutely no wiggle. They are brass, look original and are the original Winchester Blue Colour. I’ve now redirected my work to finish removing the right floor. In reading about that job here on the forum I can gather all the info I need in about fifteen minutes. To find and remove about eight inches of factory tack welds takes an hour or more. See picture.
  4. Thanks Stuart, At least this time I’m working from above on the chassis without body rather than on my back trying to correct things from underneath. In spite of buying all the recommended bits and clamps I wound up making one. It’s not pretty but works better than what I bought. Opening the ends of the x would mean heating with a torch and hammering? Paul
  5. Stuart, in your picture the exhaust going through the X member. Did you do anything to keep it from rattling? I’ve got the big bore stainless on my 3A and I don’t think I’ve cured the rattle yet. I’m working on the TR3 now with same exhaust. It’ll have the A overdrive, looks like a very tight fit too.
  6. And the outer sill IS NOT in the right place. Paul
  7. Peter, that doesn’t scare me a bit... Actually I’m at the thinking and tinkering stage. Since the floors are nearly non-existent I did some measuring and eye-balling the new ones today and it looks like they will fit pretty well. I’m thinking of putting them in with pop-rivets to hold everything together for now, then tackling the sills. Uncovered enough of the right sill today to discover the original Winchester blue paint. And I agree, fitting the doors will involve a lot of head scratching and more visits to the forum. After the floors are in I’ll set the body back on the chassis, then star
  8. Keith, and all others...I took your advice and correctly bolted on the ugly right front wing first. I’m impressed, all bolt holes lined up. When I tightened up the bolts, the fit to door improved a lot. See the picture. Thanks to all for the advice, next visit to garage I’ll try the door with hinges. Suddenly the ugly wing doesn’t look so bad. All the holes lined up without the need of foul language and a hammer. Paul
  9. I’ve always been a big Healey fan too but the TR3 already stretches the budget (and strains the marriage).to the limit. Also what I like about the TR3, is most parts j can handle alone if no one is around to help. I’ve finished a US TR3A that was a rusty non original mess but I built it to drive, not so much to show. I drive it to car shows to admire restored Triumphs brought in on covered trailers.
  10. Yes, import out of U.S. The floors were original but nearly non-existent. I agree, I’ll give it a lot more thought before cutting anything. Ive tapped out the rusty bolt holes and will mount the wing property to get a better idea of how it all fits together. Thanks for comments. Paul
  11. I wire brushed the weld and although sloppy I think it’s original. I removed the hinges and the door fit curve to swage perfectly, front and back. From the front down to outer sill fit is good too but doesn’t come close to meeting the joint line. Are they supposed to meet? See picture. Bottom door gap is about an 1/8”. The rear part of door gap at the top is okay and meets the swage perfectly but going downward from the top to bottom the gap shrinks until the door overlaps the “B” post by about 3/16” at the bottom. There was a lot of poor work done on the rear part of the outer sill
  12. Thanks again Keith. Your info is noted. I now have two very ugly wings that fit poorly so are not much help. The right one overlapped the door by about 3/8”. Door gaps of 5mm noted. I have a bunch of photos I can’t find taken when the car arrived. When I find them i hope it will give a better idea of how things fit together then. The hinges are wiggly by the way. Paul
  13. Great info, I’m printing it out to absorb later. Thanks. Paul
  14. Pater, Unfortunately the original wings were taken away by a Meister for cosmetic work. He disappeared with them and people who followed up on it for me said he was not a good person and to forget the parts, they were probably traded for drugs. He seemed like a nice guy. A family man. We talked about his two children and what he planned to buy them for Christmas. Two years ago. Only the bonnet and two front wings fit into his car at the time. Such a trustworthy type if he had a trailer I’d have probably had him take the whole car. It is said live and learn. I’m 76 and I so far I have only live
  15. Car in need of total restoration. There is no evidence of prior accident damage that I can see. One picture shows inside of right front fender with lots of undercoating but no rust or damage. Both sides and the front are like this. On the right side, the door at the top front sticks out about 3/4” and won’t align even with pressure. The back and bottom easily close and align and door gaps could be made to look pretty good too. Both doors have had considerable work done and look finished. The workmanship looks good from the eye of an amateur. The door hinges look original but lo
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