Jump to content


Registered User
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

Recent Profile Visitors

883 profile views
  1. Hi Stuart, Ok, but Is there enough slack in the brake flexi to be able to drop the arm to drop down without disconnecting the brake lines to remove the brackets? Thanks Rich
  2. Thanks Stuart, I have standard drive shafts. Yes I remember now that I did manage to change the springs as you say when working on my TR6 12 years ago. However the 4A seemed not willing to give up it's spring so easily, I guess I could put a pair of spring compressors on the spring before releasing the shock absorber and it should then be OK then. Will try it today. Thanks Rich
  3. Your probably right Roger. I feel the same, bit of a sod that you have to remove the hub/drive shaft/hydraulics to release the spring. Then its easy, hopefully you only have to do it once, but unlikely, probably again once the suspension settles down . Adjusting the toe in by adding /deleting spacers is not such a problem as the pressure can be relieved on the bracket bolts as you suggest Waldi. thanks Rich
  4. Hi Guys, Probably been discussed before, but is it possible to change out the mounting brackets on the above IRS set up to adjust the camber without having to strip down to the bare radius arm, ie disconnect the brake hydraulics, remove the spring and pull out the hub and drive shaft. Neither of which is a 5 minute job and may have to be repeated if you don't achieve the desired effect first time. My previous attempts to jack up the radius arm with spring and hub connected, and remove the pivot bolts and lower to get at the mounting bolts, has ended in uncontrolled backward movemen
  5. Thanks Stuart, already a chat with with Karl. Rich
  6. Hi Guys, I have to renew both my Chassis plate and Body plate and need to know where to get the replacements stamped. I have purchased a replacement Chassis plate, but not Body plate as this looks like a simple job to make. The letter size looks like it should be 5mm (ish). I have a complete set of letter/number punches which are too large, dam it! I've had these for many years and only used them once. I am reluctant to buy another set of smaller punches as I will probably only again use them once and they will join the other tools that I shall never use and should be cleari
  7. Hi Paul, I have a CTM chassis on my TR6, supplied by Colin to me so I know its a CTM. It does have a CTM plate on it with a number. Rich
  8. Hi Guys, No further action required. I have found a very detailed instruction/guide on how to rebuild TR4A seats on the US Triumph Experience Forum, 4 downloads. And yes the spring goes in the loop at the back of the base to keep tension there to stop a crack appearing between the base and back when sitting on the seat!. Rich
  9. Hi Guys, Just starting to rebuild my seats. Had the frames sandblasted and powder coated after minor repairs. Unfortunately my seats came with the original covers removed, which I would have preferred to have removed myself which would have been better to see how they came apart. Having read Alan T's 2013 excellent article on re upholstering his seats, albeit in leather, I am using Vinyl seat covers supplied by John Skinner Ltd, I am however a little confused as to where the strong spring across the back of the frame is actually attached to which seat cover, base or back.
  10. I notice in the Heritage Certificate shown in the support paperwork for the TR4 for sale in the US that Stuart refers to 'If your quick ----' that it does show the body number. Is this usual? If so I will order a Certificate. Rich
  11. Hi Guys, Unfortunately my TR4A, KBP865D, purchased by me partly dismantled, having been taken off the road in 1983. The ID plates for the car unfortunately seem to have been misplaced although the chassis and engine numbers are stated in the original green log book and V5C. The engine number matches this data. What is not quoted in these documents is the body number. How likely is it that a Heritage certificate if purchased would include this body number. Thanks Rich
  12. Thanks guys for the info. I have been looking at e-bay and yes there are some possible sources of 2" bar our there, but, not being mean, but what seems like a reasonable price always is too much and becomes so expensive when adding postage etc. In any event I am trying to reduce having extra 'stuff' in my workshop/life. It's time to start decluttering . No rush, car won't be on the road now until next spring anyway, something will turn up. Thanks anyway Rich
  13. Hi Guys, Despite searching through all my 'come in hand boxes (have I really had that part for 50 years!)', I cannot fine a lump of alluminium approx 2 inch dia x 1 inch long from which I can machine up a new spacer. Anybody have such a lump or know of a source? Cheers Rich
  14. PS, same story at Deeman Tweeks
  15. Yes Roger, I placed an order with them just to find out they don't keep stock, but order in from Vredestein as required. Unfortunately they do not have stock as the production has now turned to winter tyres only. Hopefully will restart summer tyres in Feb/March. Rich
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.