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rvwp

TR Register Members
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    628
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About rvwp

  • Rank
    Rich
  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    rvwp

Profile Information

  • Location
    Weymouth
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects! Current cars, 1965 Sunbeam Tiger, 1965 TR4A, 1965 Morris Minor

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. OK I will have a look. Should have said 3/4 AF X 1/2inch square, not 5/8unf!! Rich
  2. Hi guys, I need to recheck my TR4A cylinder head torque after engine rebuild. Rather than remove the rocker shaft etc to access the nuts under the shaft, I'm sure I have seen a short flat adaptor spanner that will pass under the shaft and drop over the head nuts, 5/8unf one end and 1/2 inch square on the other to take the torque wrench. I know it's not that much trouble to remove the Rocker shaft and i would need to recheck the tappet clearances after re torque, but wondering if anyone knows of such a spanner, or have I imagined it! Rich
  3. I purchased my 4A interior kit , including seat covers, from the TR Shop last year. It actually was manufactured by Skinners. i agree with Stuart with regards the door card fixing kit holes. I did speak to them about it and the response was ' nothing changed, they have always been made like that'. Apart from that the kit was very good. Rich
  4. Hi Guys, Looks like I'd better change my ID photo and remove the TR6 and replace with my TR4A! I am pleased with Jonny's enthusiasm over buying my car, I know it will serve him well. Absolutely no chance of ever getting the TR rust demon with its new chassis and new Heritage body panels. Sorry to see it go but 'tempus fugit'. I still have my 4A (and Sunbeam Tiger), so will still be active on the Forum and keeping up with news etc. Happy motoring Jonny. Rich
  5. Hi John, I purchased a Retainer bar from Moss and thought it was rubbish. Did not fit at all well. Rather that bend and manipulate it, I returned it and made one myself. Rather than use tube as original, which I could not find, I use flat steel bar, I think from memory approx 16 x 5mm which would fit into the sleeve at the back of the vinyl top. It's a bit tricky as you have to bend it in two directions, I used a large vice to hold it and using an extension bar slowly bent it first in a horizontal curve, then into the curve of the backlight. I did not need to use heat. Took a while
  6. Thanks Brian, All sorted, managed to work out how to add pictures, advert now live, thanks rich
  7. Hi Guys, Just put the above topic in the TR7/8 Forum, IDIOT!!. not sure how to change it back to the TR6 Forum. Help. Rich
  8. Hi Guys, I have decided to sell one of my TR's. Sadly it's the TR6 that I have chosen. It's built around a new CTM chassis and all new Heritage panels, including Floor, Cills, Doors, Wings, Bonnet and Boot, all sourced in 2007 when tools were still good! No panels repaired and no FILLER. 1652 dry miles since total restoration/rebuild. However, I am having difficulty adding photo's to the advert in the classified using Media manager? Any help/advise would be welcome. Thanks Rich
  9. Hi Richard, I see from your picture that the Laygear seems to be in position whilst you are trying to fit the Ist motion drive shaft. This is impossible. It should not have been possible to withdraw the Ist motion shaft without dropping the laygear into the bottom of the box? Fitting the main shaft with rear main bearing with gear, and Ist motion gear must be completed with the Laygear loose in the bottom of the box. Ideally a support tool should be used to centralise the front of the mainshaft when pressing in the the rear bearing otherwise it may well be cocked and jam!
  10. Thank's Charlie D/Bob, The PDF supplied by Charlie looks like it should provide enough info to start a diagnostic strip down of my speedo. Might get back to you Bob if I get stuck. t Thanks, Rich
  11. Hi Guys, I know this is an old post, but I need to strip my Jaegar Speedo in my 4A which is behaving erratically. Alan T was offering a 'Repairing Jaegar and Smiths Speedometer guide' to anybody that wanted them. I have tried to message Alan T, but it seems that he is not receiving messages? Does anybody have a copy that they could e-mail me on rvwp@yahoo.co.uk. Thanks Rich
  12. Hi guys, Does anyone know of a source of the 3 x O ring seals that seal the selector rods. Currently out of stock at Moss. Even if available, Moss min postal charge makes them very expensive which grates a bit! I guess there must be a cheaper source, probably metric equivalent, available on E- bay, free postage. Rich
  13. I have a colour tune that I've had for years. I set my twin SU's on my TR4A very easily with it. Watching the colour of the flame change as you adjust the mixture is an excellent way to balance them. Great device. Rich
  14. Defective Overdrive switch update. The stock at the well known supplier has been checked and one of the 9 currently held 1 was also defective. Seems like I received another defective one! Anyway, all's well that ends well and a replacement 'checked out for function' has been sent out to me. Good service but clearly no goods inwards QA checks at supplier. Rich
  15. Hi Guys, Am looking for an original RHD overdrive switch to replace the repro one purchased from one of the major Triumph suppliers. The construction of the switch is that the contact board is retained by 2 vertical slots cast in the alloy body/ Unfortunately the depth of these grooves are inadequate in the repro and the board is not retained securely enough. In the way the switch is fitted the cable loom attached to this terminal board is under pressure as it is fed through the steering column and therefore needs to be firmly located in the switch body. I have taken th
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