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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. Soo where are the bad ones from? Rich
  2. Ah! no they are not fitted as they did not come in the box of bits. I did wonder what the slotted holes in the inner wing were for, now I see. Will have to buy a pair. This will fill in the gap between the grill and the wing. Thanks Rich
  3. Hi Guys, Currently pre fitting my front wings/grill to my 65 TR4A body tub now rebuilt before body shop painting. The car came to me mainly stripped down with wings loosely fitted. As this is my first foray into TR4 restoration, I'm not clear regarding the gap between the grill and the front wings. Although the wing profile follows the shape of the grill there is a approx. 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap through which you can see into the inside of the wings? Is this correct or should there be some seal in this area to prevent weather etc entering under the wing? Any advise/close up pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Rich
  4. Well yes OK, they are M10 head size. I think you have to be pretty picky (concours excluded) to notice the difference a sill level. You don't see the ones fixing the rear wings at the top. I prefer to have non rusting fixings at road level in amongst the dirt and wet? Your choice. Cheers Rich
  5. Hi John, You can get M10 x 3/4 hex head DIN7976 A2 stainless steel suitable screws from Stig fasteners (www.a2stainless.co.uk) which work perfectly well for both lower wing fixing and rear wing fixing at the top. You have to buy a pack of 50 but its only £7 ish so not expensive. Check out all the other SS nuts/bolts etc that they sell also. Regards Rich
  6. Hi Steve, yes it is very stable and gives clear access to all the usual TR4 panel replacement areas. As an added benefit the whole structure cost me £9 as I used old scaffold poles and clamps that were scrap from my local scaffold business. The plywood I had hanging around. The end supports I had as I have roll jiged my Sunbeam Tiger, but that was easy as just needed a bar across the bumper fixings each end of the chassis. Regards Rich
  7. Hi Steve, having previously rebuilt two TR6's as you say panel by panel, I have rebuilt both using the rebuilt chassis as the jig. A TR6 does easily lend itself to a jig as the rear bulkhead is in the way of the pole. That said the TR4A that I am currently restoring did not need complete floors or sills, just repairs, so the body was stiff and not liable to sag. The main benefit was to be able to turn through 90 degrees to properly repair the A and B post bottoms and the rear inner wings to rear deck which had previously been bodged. Also the car with the pole attached was taken to a sand blaster who was able to support the ends of the pole and turn it over a get to all areas. The internal plywood bulkheads that I constructed are attached at the fuel tank fixings ( the fuel tank when in place is structural) and at the forward bulkhead, again structural. Any flexing of the scaffold pole front and back is minimal as it is two poles clamped together for additional strength. I think you may be alright doing the floors and sills on a jig, but I would definitely put a support from garage floor to the pole between the plywood bulkheads through the gearbox gap to prevent any sagging when floors are cut out, perhaps one side at a time. I can only upload 1 picture at a time, if you want more PM me your e mail and I can send more. Best of luck Rich
  8. Hi Guys, Having constructed a jig to allow my TR4A project body tub to be rolled over through 360 degrees, I will be finished with the jig in the next month or so. Rather than throw the construction away, if anybody's interested in it then I will happily let them have it. Its been so much easier to work on, (getting too old to weld upside down now!) I am in Weymouth where it can be seen if anybody is interested.
  9. I reckon in my case having been fitted probably from new, that it will be very likely that the bolt will shear, especially as the spacer is aluminium. Luckily I have oxy/acetylene so can heat up the bolt to remove the them as the body is off the chassis. What about using TR6 rear springs as recommended by Moss? Rich
  10. Hi Guys, The rear body mounted bump stops on my 65 TR4A have a aluminium spacer, about 5/8" thick, under the bump stop. The spacer seems to be original, definitely been there a long time, certainly pre early 80's when the car was last on the road. The moss catalogue does not show this spacer. I'm not sure that the bump stop in the catalogue would have enough thread to cater for this spacer anyway. I have not been able to unscrew the bump stop, probably made worse by the aluminium corroding around the thread. I will have to resort to heat I guess. My question is was this original, and whether fitting the current available bump stop, as my TR6, (without spacer) be suitable. Perhaps the spacer has been fitted to overcome the apparent rear spring weakness in the TR4a. According the Moss catalogue TR6 springs should be fitted? Any comments would be appreciated. Regards Rich
  11. Hi Stuart, thanks for the reply. What your suggesting is how I had originally planned to undertake the repair, but unfortunately at the rear the horizontal has corroded away so the top of the inner wing needs attention first. But yes I will do as you say but welding along the edge of the new upright feels me with trepidation as welding old to new on such a length always is difficult, or I just my welding technique!! Here is a picture of my car. Its a 1966 TR4A. Been off the road since 1984 when it last MOt'd then dry stored. Clearly some restoration work, mainly paint stripping, has been done at some time during the last 35 years, but the messy repair work was probably done in the 70/80's when our cars were not worth much. Generally its in pretty good shape except the B posts and the what I have described. Thanks Rich
  12. Hi Guys, Just getting into restoring my recently acquired 1966 TR4A, last on the road in 1984. Rebuilt the B posts, usual problem of rotting around the seat belt anchor points previously plated, messy!. Now starting to sort out the rear deck forward section, centre section and rear section where they join the inner wing. Again messy where back in the day previous repairs were completed by brazing new edge return pieces over the rusty original parts without cutting back the rust. This area can be corrected by making new folded edge pieces and but welding into place. Difficult but doable. However the top of the inner wing where it is dog legged again has been left with rusty ragged edges at the top and just plated over. The top of the inner wing has to cut off to remove this mess. The problem is the replacement dog leg piece to be made is not parallel but tapering from about 3/4 to 0 inch along the offset. Very difficult to make. Any ideas? Thanks Rich
  13. Hi Tush, thanks for the update/information. Great video diary's of your restorations, very usefull, thanks Rich
  14. Hi Guys, sorry too early in the morning! The chassis/vin No should have been stated as CTC64206, not the same as the engine number, Duh!! Was the ST prefix to the engine number in the green registration document an error back in 1966? Should have been CT Thanks Rich
  15. Hi Guys, Just started tearing apart my 66 TR4A, luckily no major surprises. The main rust issues, previously repaired (badly), are the rear inner wing to rear deck, very typical of both TR4 /5 and 6. Luckily the front end /floors and cills are in excellent condition (phew). However more problems will appear I'm sure once all the underseal is removed and the body sand blasted. The car was last taxed in 1985 and the last MOT shows 95585 recorded mileage in April 1985 which ties up with the speedo reading of approx 96000. The car has been dry stored since then with some repair work undertaken over the past 34 years. The chassis/frame number is CTC64191E, engine number CT64191E, stamped on the engine, which ties up with the original green registration book, except that the engine number has been written as ST 64191E. I assume that this was an clerical error by the person writing the data onto the green registration book back in 1966? This information has been transferred to the V5C. I intend to update the engine number when I send off the V5C to transfer the car to my name, Just seeking confirmation that the S prefix is indeed incorrect? Thanks Rich
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