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rvwp

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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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  • Location
    Weymouth
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. Hi Guys, Nearing the completion of my gearbox rebuild. Fitted a new clutch cross shaft with an additional roll pin for extra security. The gearbox is in a 4a and the cross shaft is a non greaseable type and does not use the locating bolt, but is floating with a anti rattle spring. However as the original bushes were worn, I replaced these. Whether I ordered the wrong bushes or not I noticed that they were grooved so that a locating bolt if used would pass through. As some way of greasing would probably be good, I came up with the idea of using the locating bolt holes that are in the gearbox casting by blanking off the 5/16 UNC threaded side of the hole with a 5/16 UNC grub screw. The 5/16 plain hole side was tapped 3/8 UNC, (5/16 is the correct tapping size). A Grease nipple with a 3/8 UNC thread was screwed into this side. This was done on both sides. Grease can now be applied whenever. Both the grub screw and grease nipples were available on e-bay for around a £5, more than needed though. A quick simple mod that hopefully will stop bush wear for later used non greaseable cross shafts. Regards Rich
  2. Hi Guys, Stripped my TR4a Gearbox (CT71981) to find the 3rd gear on the layshaft had several teeth missing due to worn layshaft gears and needle bearings. Probably why the car was taken off the road in 1984 and stored as it had been MOT'd some months before. Rather than buy a reproduction gear from Moss/Rimmer, as anybody a good original gear that they have no use for and would be prepared to sell. Or can anyone give me a steer to who to go to that would be able to supply one. Thanks Rich
  3. Hi Guys, As usual plenty of good advice. However, I think I will try the soaking in Diesel/penetrating oil for a week or so as suggested by George, to see if it frees up. There seems too many possible problems that could occur to take it apart if not needed. On the subject of gearbox's, I need to replace the Layshaft and bearings and thrust washers, along with the 3rd gear which has taken a hit owing to the failure of the needle bearing at the reverse gear end. Apparently quite common. Any advice as to the best source and bearing choice, loose needles or caged? I seem to remember that there was a problem with Layshafts supplied by Moss. Too soft? Cheers Rich
  4. Hi Guys, Can anyone point me in the direction of a clear strip down/rebuild procedure for the gear selector mechanism as fitted to my 4a, although I guess its basically the same for a 250/6. My mechanism has been sat idle for probably 30 plus years and does not seem to want to move although there is movement in the sector shafts. The workshop manual seems to be inadequate in this area and I am reluctant to just pull it apart, especially as there as balls and spring involved, without having a reference guide. I've checked Youtube but cant find any video's. Thanks Rich
  5. Yes I reckon cutting out and replacing is probably best as the shaft is rusty, the gearbox having been off the car for probably at least 35 years. Chris Witter does them for £27 with new uprated pin. I believe he has a good reputation for quality? When considering the cost of restoring this Tr4a, £20 is peanuts Regards Rich
  6. Ah! I'm being dipsy again. I was looking under gearbox not clutch. I will try the drilling a hole to punch the broken part out, or maybe just buy a replacement and cut the old shaft each side of the fork as it's rusty and pitted Anyway, time forget about TR's, we are off to sunny Greece tomorrow for a couple of weeks to stay with our daughter, forecast sun, 15/16 degrees, no rain and gales . Happy Xmas to all and a happy new year. Thanks Rich
  7. Hi Guys, Finally put my TR4a engine back together. Now to the gearbox. Feels a bit roughish when turning. No oil in it! Probably been sitting since 1984. So strip down needed. No problem, been there before with my TR6, but! First problem. The tapered pin on the clutch operating rod came out too easily and has fractured, By the look of the rusty fracture it had been so for many years. So, how to remove the broken part to get the shaft out. As I recall this a common problem. It can't be drilled out? Easiest way would be to cut the shaft either side and replace it once the broken part of the pin is removed from the fork (hopefully). But where to get a new shaft. Moss don't seem to list it. Is there a Forum gearbox wizard that sells such thing second hand? Help Rich
  8. Hi Guys, Thanks for the tips. I will probably lightly bead blast them and then back in the ultra-sonic cleaner. Not looking for polished surface just consistent surface finish, especially the domes. Thanks Rich (RCW) for the pictures. That will help considerably. Looks like the manifold has been painted silver, looks nice? Rich
  9. Hi Guys, Cleaned up my TR4a HS6 carbs in an ultrasonic cleaning tank and got rid of all the years of gunk. However the finish on the carbs looks a bit old and blotchy which I guess is to be expected as they have been left unused for 38 years! Other that bead blasting, which tends to clean up the alloy surface, but can destroy the original finish, any ideas of any process that will improve the look but retain the original finish. Also trying to work out the linkage set up as my TR4a Workshop manual does not show a SU HS6 setup and the carb/linkage were loose in a box.? The Moss catalogue gives a pretty good picture but its not showing the linkage fitted to the carbs. Any ideas on a good diagram giving clear set up arrangement? Cheers Rich
  10. Hi Ian, Moss have 30% off the front end strengthening kits at the moment. May make it more palatable at the reduced price and save a lot of effort especially bending over the top edges of the pieces which gives them the strength. The rest of the strengthening plates at the rear are easy to make. Rich
  11. Great response, thanks. Was just asking, No need for a heatshield then, so won't go down that route. Rich
  12. Hi guys, Has any one used a heat shield mounted between the inlet manifold above the exhaust manifold to reduce heat transferring to the HS6 carbs on a TR4a? I remember a heat shield being standard on a similar set HS6 set up om my MGA Twin cam previously owned. ( see Moss MGA catalogue). Seems like it would be pretty easy to make subject to acquiring suitable asbestos free sheeting to back up an steel/alloy plate sandwiched between the inlet manifold and the carbs. Is the heat a problem anyway? Any comments would be appreciated
  13. Hu Guys, My TR4a engine came separate from the car with all the accessories jumbled in boxes. This included the Tecalemit Filter head and filter housing. The housing just has the fixing bolt running through it, but no spring or guide plate attached. Looking at the Moss catalogue it seems that the Telcalemit does not have a spring, but does have a guide plate. The spring only seems to be part of the Purolator style. Is this right? If no spring what hold the filter in place? Also the Dynamo does not have a fan with it. Moss shows one, NCA, so I assume it should have one as most dynamo's do. Anybody got one going spare? Any help appreciated. Thanks Rich
  14. Thanks Chris for the Dave Davis contact number. Have spoken with him and he has managed to find a oil seal and has sent it to me for a very reasonable price. Hopefully the pump can now be refurbished fully and provide good service. Cheers Rich
  15. Hi Guys, Just purchased a fuel pump repair kit from Moss. Not really impressed as it's a Powertrain product which looks a bit cheaply put together. Maybe they are all the same? However the kit does not include the oil seal in the bottom of the chamber through which the shaft of the diaphragm passes. Problem is that when I pulled out the old diaphragm after turning it 1/4 turn anticlockwise, the seal being old fell apart! The repair kits on line/E-bay seem to lack this seal also. Does anybody know of a source for a replacement seal? Thanks Rich
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