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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects! Current cars, 1965 Sunbeam Tiger, 1972 TR6, 1965 TR4A, 1965 Morris Minor

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  1. Typically Wheeler Dealers. 40 man hours to bring a 20 year plus stored car back to road use? No mention of the work that must have been done to rebuild brakes/suspension bushes etc. There was probably a team of mechanics working on the car off camera undertaking these tasks otherwise it would never be safe. Mind you I can never understand how on many of the American car programs they seem to be able to build/restore cars and just drive out of the workshop, part finished, and drive off into the sun without any official checks? That said, it looked like a very good sound car and very
  2. Hi Bruce, I've done plenty of lead loading, normally in area's where there is stiffness in the panel surrounding the area. Some distortion but manageable. Having put a near 1/2 door skin on to my TR4A recently, I was concerned about undertaking lead loading of the welded joint as local heating of the panel would surely distort it. Luckily a friend mentioned an old boy, now retired, with 60 years experience in car body work/lead loading that lived not far away. To cut to the chase he came to me and lead loaded the door with no distortion. His method was to pre-heat the whole pane
  3. Hi Guys, If anybody is interested, having now received a minimum quantity of correct nylon bonnet letter fixing bush's and fitted them satisfactorily as original, I have one set of 16 left, having passed on a set at cost to another Forum member. The cost is £6 inc postage. If anybody is interested PM me. Regards Rich
  4. Hi Dennis, I would try John Skinner, (sales@john-skinner.co.uk)I have found him very approachable, he might sell you just the piece your looking for. Rich
  5. Hi Guys, Having now pretty well completed the restoration of my 4A, just need to fit new tyres, so therefore put the covers on until Covid eases in the Spring (hopefully) when I will be vaccinated and feel more comfortable going to the tyre fitter. I need now to do a few jobs on my TR6. First job is to replace the passenger side bush in the rack which was an observation at my last MOT. Question: I also have a LH rack which I have stripped and all seems very good, no appreciable wear in the rack bar or ball ends. Looking at the rack bar I assume that the LH and RH rack b
  6. Thanks for the responses. Unfortunately roger i'm not convinced that the Moss one you identified are the right size as its application is not TR4A bonnet. The boot lettering is a different size pin. The ones required are 1/8 pin x 3/16 hole. So thanks Stuart, I have ordered the correct size from Bresco, unfortunately had to buy 45! Only need 14. So if any body wants a set, PM me and I'm sure we can come to an arrangement. Thanks Rich
  7. OK Guys, Gone off topic now, so I will just buy from Moss and pay the £5.45 postage Rich
  8. Hi Guys, Anybody know where to buy the original plastic sockets for fixing the TRIUMPH lettering to the bonnet. I know they must be available as the Bonnet Badge I purchased at the spares day in February had two in the pack. Moss only supply the spire clips, which would do but I would prefer the original method. I did remove the originals when stripping the bonnet for painting, but only rescued 5. They are 3/16 in diameter, larger than the boot lettering which has smaller diameter pins. Thanks Rich
  9. Thanks Roger, yes I know Moss have it, but I don't like paying Moss delivery cost when E-Bay have lots of suppliers of probably suitable oil for less price with postage included. Interestingly, the Moss description states also suitable for motor cycle forks. Just need to know the best viscosity for the Armstrong Shocks. Regards Rich
  10. Hi Guys, As the oil in my Armstrong shock absorbers is of unknown vintage, I thought I would drain and refill. But what oil? The original Armstrong oil is NCA. I have heard that motorcyle Fork oil is suitable, but what grade? Also hydraulic Jack oil? Presumably the stiffness of the shock absorber will be affected by the SAE number. Any recommendations appreciated. Thanks Rich
  11. Hi Jase, It's a CRYLUX window supplied by Honeyborne untrimmed. The shape of the aperture was increased to give aa approximate 10mm land all round as would be an original one. Luckily I was able to reprofile the crylux window by laying over a genuine glass window from a friend and marking the shape. Both the crylux window and the backlight were cut using a 150mm x 1mm cutting disc in my grinder. An original glass window could be used, but unless your very confident and practiced at fitting the rear glass in a Backlight, its very difficult owing to the acute corners and is not for th
  12. Hi Jase, I recently fitted a Honeyborne back light to my 4A. I went the way of Stuart and purchase mine from Honeyborne with an unshaped rear window and opened up the window size to that of the original metal backlight. I then shaped the window to the original glass size and used an original window seal such that in appearance it looks as if original, especially in the acute corners. You have to cut off the second stud in both sides if it's fitted to a 4A. Also the backlight to body seal provided by Honeyborne is too large in section and does not allow the Backlight to pull down
  13. I thought about a wire wheel conversion for my TR4A but decided to keep the steel wheels for all the above reasons. I'm about to have the steel wheels grit blasted and not sure whether to go the powder coating route,(easy route) or paint. I know that there has been comments before over a possible problem with wheel nuts becoming loose as a result of powder coating. Any hard evidence of this? As my order of Vredestien tyres was cancelled by Deman Tweeks as apparently Vdedestien have dropped the 15 inch dia from their range, I ordered a set of 5 Hankook tyres ,15 165 80 profile, from
  14. Thanks for the replies. On checking many photo's of TR4/4A's on the web, although most seem to have wire wheels, original or after market, in the main they are silver. I am therefore assuming that the wheels that came with the car are original and silver. So that is what is what I shall maintain. The car is its original Wedgewood blue and in my view the silver looks better than off white anyway with that colour. Rich
  15. Hi Guys, The wheels that came on my 1966 TR4A project car were silver coloured, looks like original factory paint. I am keeping the wheels with hub caps as this is how it left the factory. However, I am not sure whether they are the correct colour as I believe that TR4A wheels may have been off white. My chassis number is CTC64206 first registered 1st Feb 1966. Roger Williams excellent ' How to restore Triumph TR4 & TR4A' do not mention wheel colour. Any guidance appreciated. Thanks Rich
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