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rvwp

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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    rvwp

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  • Location
    Weymouth
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. rvwp

    choke cable

    I made a choke cable for one of my other cars, (Sunbeam Tiger) from a control cable, for I think a mower/Rotavator, available from my local garden machinery shop. It had a solid core and no plastic coating so pretty sure it would be suitable, or the inner core /outer cable could be used to repair the original. Rich
  2. My TR4A had been repainted a dark blue sometime back in the 1980's. However when stripping the car down there was plenty of places where the original color, Wedgewood blue, was still evident, under the dash, under the windscreen rubber. Not many repaints back in the day were actually total bare body, so easy to find original color. Mine is now back to the original Wedgewood blue, a total bare shell repaint! Rich
  3. Spoke to TRGB yesterday who gave me dimensions of the bar they sell, apparently sourced direct from the UK manufacturer. And yes when compared to the original bar I have borrowed the height at the center is about 3/4 inch to high also. Seems they probably all come from the same source? Whilst they could be "sat upon" to adjust the curve I am not prepared to mess around with it and therefore not be able to return it to Moss for a refund if its still not right. I am going to obtain some steel strip, 8mm x 12mm, round off the edges, and spend a few hours and bend/tweek up my own using the original and the backlight as a template. Should be fun. Will let you know how it works out. Rich Rich
  4. No, an original bar fits perfectly on a Honeyborne! Moss again not checking the products they sell. Sent mine back. Rich
  5. Hi Guys, Just fitting a Surrey Top new 'H' frame and adjusting the front arm length's to reposition to a Hood front head rail method of fixing. The height above the windows before tensioning seems important otherwise it will be too peaky or too low. So an anyone please provide a dimension of the center frame ends above the door capping's before the fabric top is pulled over the frame and tensioned. My new 'H' frame is tight on the joints with no slack in the rivets so sits without sagging. Any help appreciated. Thanks Rich
  6. So, seems like there is a problem with this item supplied by Moss, but why has nobody complained. I have spoken to TRGB who also seem to think that the ones they sell are OK, not sourced from Moss, but from the UK manufacture, although the dimensions of the depth of the curve given to me when compared to an original, is approx 3/4 inch greater. so I expect they are sourced from the same supplier but they have no reported problems. SC Parts also supply this item, they are unable to say whether they come from the same source as Moss, but have had no returns? So who has purchased this item, from any supplier, and found it to be satisfactory without manipulation. Need to know? Thanks Rich
  7. Hi Guys, I am looking for an original used RETAINER BAR, REAR, the bit that pushes through the pocket at the rear of the Surrey top. Moss part No. 706240. I did buy from Moss, but the curvature is not correct, so am looking for an original. Any condition will do. Thanks Rich
  8. Hi Gareth, Make sure you fix the bracing bars on the inside of the body so that the doors can still be fitted with the bars in place during any refurbishment. Having removed the body for rebuild on two TR6's and a TR4A, my advice would be to leave the braces on if all all possible until the body is back on the chassis! Don't forget to make a note of the body to chassis packing pieces for future reference as a good starting point when re-uniting. Rich
  9. rvwp

    Overheating

    My understanding of the TR4 cooling system is that the bypass system, peculiar to the TR4/4A, is to allows the engine to quickly reach temperature by allowing the water to circulate around the engine only with the thermostat closed. Once operating temperature is reached, the original ' BELLOWS TYPE thermostat opens to allow the water to flow through the radiator, but also closes off the bypass, and permits full flow through the radiator. If a non bellows cheap thermostat is used, without blocking off the bypass with a plug with a bleed hole in it, then water will STILL FLOW through the bypass system once the this style of thermostat opens, and the water will overheat and the engine will get too hot. The original style bellows are I believe still available but expensive, £85, but is the way the system was designed! Running the engine without a thermostat with the bypass still open will only reduce the time the engine reaches operating temperature, not cure overheating. Suggest check which thermostat is fitted and check if bypass is plugged if non bellows type is being used. Rich
  10. Hi Guys, Nice informative chatter on the problem of fitting the seal, hard or soft foot, but what about a supplier/part number? No sign in any of the usual catalogues. Much appreciated if any body can supply this imformation. Thanks Rich
  11. Thanks Stuart, but I can't seem to find any reference to the seal you refer to in my TR4/4A catalogue? have you got a Moss part number please. Thanks Rich
  12. Hi Guys, Advise required as what is the seal arrangement between windscreen and door glass on a TR4A. Unlike the TR5/6 there is a 'U' channel spot welded to the frame, that takes a seal in the same manor as the hood seal on the head frame. However I cannot see any seals illustrated in the Moss catalogue. Also I assume there is a similar furfex seal to the door seal, possible without the rubber part, that also pushes over the edge flange on the windscreen. Thanks Rich
  13. Hi Guys, Been looking around to see if there are any genuine Lockheed options out there. Just for reference what is the recommended diameter required, 5.5 x 1.9 boost? Rich
  14. Hi Guys, Thinking of upgrading the braking system with a Brake Servo on my 4A. I know this subject has been a discussion point on the Forum in the past but updates on views is always helpful. As the braking system is basically the same as my TR6, I think I might miss one on the 4A. The question is what is the best source of a servo/kit. TR Shop do a kit, not sure of its source, probably the far east? Several suppliers on e-bay offer Servo upgrades for different classic cars which appear to be based on Lockheed/Girling Servo's. Making a bracket to mount the Servo would not be a problem for me if it was just buying the Servo. Possibly a MGB remote Servo would do? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Rich
  15. Hi Rich, I think you will find the Woolies one's are 3mm dia with raised heads which are too large and stand proud and stop the hinge closing. Cheers Rich
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