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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. Hi Guys, Cleaned up my TR4a HS6 carbs in an ultrasonic cleaning tank and got rid of all the years of gunk. However the finish on the carbs looks a bit old and blotchy which I guess is to be expected as they have been left unused for 38 years! Other that bead blasting, which tends to clean up the alloy surface, but can destroy the original finish, any ideas of any process that will improve the look but retain the original finish. Also trying to work out the linkage set up as my TR4a Workshop manual does not show a SU HS6 setup and the carb/linkage were loose in a box.? The Moss catalogue gives a pretty good picture but its not showing the linkage fitted to the carbs. Any ideas on a good diagram giving clear set up arrangement? Cheers Rich
  2. Hi Ian, Moss have 30% off the front end strengthening kits at the moment. May make it more palatable at the reduced price and save a lot of effort especially bending over the top edges of the pieces which gives them the strength. The rest of the strengthening plates at the rear are easy to make. Rich
  3. Great response, thanks. Was just asking, No need for a heatshield then, so won't go down that route. Rich
  4. Hi guys, Has any one used a heat shield mounted between the inlet manifold above the exhaust manifold to reduce heat transferring to the HS6 carbs on a TR4a? I remember a heat shield being standard on a similar set HS6 set up om my MGA Twin cam previously owned. ( see Moss MGA catalogue). Seems like it would be pretty easy to make subject to acquiring suitable asbestos free sheeting to back up an steel/alloy plate sandwiched between the inlet manifold and the carbs. Is the heat a problem anyway? Any comments would be appreciated
  5. Hu Guys, My TR4a engine came separate from the car with all the accessories jumbled in boxes. This included the Tecalemit Filter head and filter housing. The housing just has the fixing bolt running through it, but no spring or guide plate attached. Looking at the Moss catalogue it seems that the Telcalemit does not have a spring, but does have a guide plate. The spring only seems to be part of the Purolator style. Is this right? If no spring what hold the filter in place? Also the Dynamo does not have a fan with it. Moss shows one, NCA, so I assume it should have one as most dynamo's do. Anybody got one going spare? Any help appreciated. Thanks Rich
  6. Thanks Chris for the Dave Davis contact number. Have spoken with him and he has managed to find a oil seal and has sent it to me for a very reasonable price. Hopefully the pump can now be refurbished fully and provide good service. Cheers Rich
  7. Hi Guys, Just purchased a fuel pump repair kit from Moss. Not really impressed as it's a Powertrain product which looks a bit cheaply put together. Maybe they are all the same? However the kit does not include the oil seal in the bottom of the chamber through which the shaft of the diaphragm passes. Problem is that when I pulled out the old diaphragm after turning it 1/4 turn anticlockwise, the seal being old fell apart! The repair kits on line/E-bay seem to lack this seal also. Does anybody know of a source for a replacement seal? Thanks Rich
  8. Yes looks like the keyway on the original pulley extension is on the same centre line as the timing mark. Makes sense. So it should be easy enough to mark the new pulley in the same way as Mike suggested. Seems simple but was just checking. Thanks Rich
  9. Hi Steve. I know accurately where TDC is as the timing cover is off and all timing wheel marks are lined up and were checked before the head was put on. As long as I don't move the crank whilst fitting the pulley all will be well, but you know how it goes? Rich
  10. Meant to say in the second from last line, ` timing cover pointer on the cover is 30 degree's left of vertical' not pointer on the crank. Muppet!! Rich
  11. Hi Guys, I am just fitting a Damped Narrow Pulley kit supplied by Moss to my TR4a engine. No problem with the fitting, but as the new crank pulley has no timing marks equivalent to the original steel pulley small hole. To establish TDC when timing the ignition, is there a simple way to mark the pulley by degree before fitting. I know in theory if the engine is a TDC (with keyway at the bottom) then as long as the crank is not turned during the fitting procedure, then a mark can be taken from the pointer on the timing cover. However, I would prefer to mark the pully before fitting. Using a timing disc it appears that the timing cover pointer on the crank, without timing cover on, is 30 degrees left of vertical. If this correct then a comparative 30 degree mark can be made on the pulley prior to fitting. Or not? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks Rich
  12. Well, the hole isn't particularly oversize, but there is a slot in the casting leading to the hole so I assume there must be enough clearance for oil pressure to get by. Although with the gasket in place there is not a lot of room. I guess I will see once the engine is run up. I guess the design must work ? Cheers Rich
  13. Hi Roger, Ah, that makes sense. I will have a closer look tomorrow and it will probably be clear and make sense, Thanks Rich
  14. Hi guys, Just reinstalling the original oil filter on my rebuilt TR4a engine. The filter head is secures by 3 bolts, and a stud. The oil feed pipe which connects to the oil pressure gauge is connected to this stud with a domed nut. I'm probably just being dipsy, but I can't see any connection through this stud into the banjo. So how does the pipe see oil pressure? Rich
  15. PS. try Don Hoods who offer a selection of surrey tops in all the usual soft top materials, inc. Double duck, at reasonable prices. Rich
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