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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. Thanks Stuart, So effectively you have increased the window size in the Honeyborne to reduce the appearance of chunkiness around the window compared with the original. Seems like the way to go and would not be a problem for me as long as the two parts are available, frame and unfinished Perspex window. I will talk to Honeybourne. I may also go for the fibre top which I guess should match and fit the frame. Both will need to be painted Wedgewood blue so will have to be sanded and primed which should resolve any ripple issues. Will keep you posted Thanks Rich
  2. OK, clearly I used the wrong wording in the search engine, doh! Using Honeyborne as you say there is plenty of info. Thanks Rich
  3. Hi Guys, I am thinking to go for a Honeybourne Surrey Top rather than refurbish/fit the original factory soft top on my 1965 TR4a currently under full restoration. I'm pretty sure somewhere on the Forum I have seen comments re this item, but a search has not come up with anything . Hopefully there is some up to date comment describing experiences in buying and fitting these items. I have seen comments with regard fitting the original aluminium backlight and top, which seems to frustrate some owners. Does the Honeybourne one take into account the differences between the forward sections differences on the rear deck of the 4 and 4a? Finally, does the Honeybourne repro look similar to the original when fitted and are there are any owners photo's out there showing the Honeybourne fitted. Also does the glass backlight window offered by Moss as an option to Perspex fit. I presume Moss sell the same item? Any comments /advise appreciated. Rich
  4. OK, nothing received so far, will check later. Off to Greece in the morning so will not be able to respond until after the 25th Sept. thanks Rich
  5. Thanks all for the advise. Will repair the original boot., that is what I expected to have to do anyway. Rich
  6. Hi Guys. A couple of years ago I'm pretty sure I picked up a name of a TR friendly locksmith from the Forum, who I sent all the locks on my TR6 and he rebuilt the locks so that one key did all, ie: doors and boot. Unfortunately can't find any record of the who it was I used. Has anybody got his name? Need to do the same for my TR4a I'm restoring. Thanks Rich
  7. Hi Guys, Just started working on my boot lid and found some dodgy brazed in lower section covered by about 1/4 inch + filler!!. I could repair with a repro lower skin section but thinking maybe replace the boot lid? So, I'm looking for a possible replacement boot lid, either 4 or 4a, with or without support frame, no previous similar repairs, as a preferred option to fitting a repro panel which may or may not fit and end up still needing filler. Obviously all 50 year old boot lids will need some remedial work which is fine. Appreciate it if any body can help then PM me and we can take it from there. Regards Rich
  8. Hi Guys, What would have been the original carpet colour for a Wedgewood blue 65 TR4a. The trim and seats are dark blue with white piping which I believe is as original. Thanks Rich
  9. Soo where are the bad ones from? Rich
  10. Ah! no they are not fitted as they did not come in the box of bits. I did wonder what the slotted holes in the inner wing were for, now I see. Will have to buy a pair. This will fill in the gap between the grill and the wing. Thanks Rich
  11. Hi Guys, Currently pre fitting my front wings/grill to my 65 TR4A body tub now rebuilt before body shop painting. The car came to me mainly stripped down with wings loosely fitted. As this is my first foray into TR4 restoration, I'm not clear regarding the gap between the grill and the front wings. Although the wing profile follows the shape of the grill there is a approx. 1/2 to 3/4 inch gap through which you can see into the inside of the wings? Is this correct or should there be some seal in this area to prevent weather etc entering under the wing? Any advise/close up pictures would be appreciated. Thanks Rich
  12. Well yes OK, they are M10 head size. I think you have to be pretty picky (concours excluded) to notice the difference a sill level. You don't see the ones fixing the rear wings at the top. I prefer to have non rusting fixings at road level in amongst the dirt and wet? Your choice. Cheers Rich
  13. Hi John, You can get M10 x 3/4 hex head DIN7976 A2 stainless steel suitable screws from Stig fasteners (www.a2stainless.co.uk) which work perfectly well for both lower wing fixing and rear wing fixing at the top. You have to buy a pack of 50 but its only £7 ish so not expensive. Check out all the other SS nuts/bolts etc that they sell also. Regards Rich
  14. Hi Steve, yes it is very stable and gives clear access to all the usual TR4 panel replacement areas. As an added benefit the whole structure cost me £9 as I used old scaffold poles and clamps that were scrap from my local scaffold business. The plywood I had hanging around. The end supports I had as I have roll jiged my Sunbeam Tiger, but that was easy as just needed a bar across the bumper fixings each end of the chassis. Regards Rich
  15. Hi Steve, having previously rebuilt two TR6's as you say panel by panel, I have rebuilt both using the rebuilt chassis as the jig. A TR6 does easily lend itself to a jig as the rear bulkhead is in the way of the pole. That said the TR4A that I am currently restoring did not need complete floors or sills, just repairs, so the body was stiff and not liable to sag. The main benefit was to be able to turn through 90 degrees to properly repair the A and B post bottoms and the rear inner wings to rear deck which had previously been bodged. Also the car with the pole attached was taken to a sand blaster who was able to support the ends of the pole and turn it over a get to all areas. The internal plywood bulkheads that I constructed are attached at the fuel tank fixings ( the fuel tank when in place is structural) and at the forward bulkhead, again structural. Any flexing of the scaffold pole front and back is minimal as it is two poles clamped together for additional strength. I think you may be alright doing the floors and sills on a jig, but I would definitely put a support from garage floor to the pole between the plywood bulkheads through the gearbox gap to prevent any sagging when floors are cut out, perhaps one side at a time. I can only upload 1 picture at a time, if you want more PM me your e mail and I can send more. Best of luck Rich
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