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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects! Current cars, 1965 Sunbeam Tiger, 1972 TR6, 1965 TR4A, 1965 Morris Minor

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  1. rvwp

    TR6 Door mirrors

    Um! not sure about that. I have GAM 105 bullet style fitted to TR4A, with a convex glass in the passenger side. I have to say that the view from these are good and I can see down the side of the car. I find it difficult to see why the GAM 258/9's (originally fitted) would not also give a reasonable view fitted to a TR6. The GAM 105 Bullet style do not look right on a TR6. Just need someone who has them fitted to give me a heads up on dimensions of where best to place them on the door that works. Thanks Rich
  2. Hi Guys, I need to fit door mirrors to me TR6, the neck isn't as flexible as it used to be for looking behind, especially when backing into the garage . I intend to fit GAM258/259 mirrors as originally fitted. Rather than get the better half to try and hold them and mark the position when I can say I can see along the car (never going to work !), can anybody provide dimensions of where the fixing holes in the door should be to give the best view. I know some will say that the passenger side door mirror is useless, but using a convex glass from DG Bull Glass services Ltd I be
  3. rvwp

    float leak

    Hio Guys, Just had the same problem with my newly restored TR4A. Only completed several miles, luckily back on the home drive, when started misfiring. A look under the bonnet and petrol was pouring out of the front carb float chamber. Sure enough on inspection the float was full of petrol! I had stripped and and rebuilt the H6 carbs, which had not seen petrol since 1983, and possibly foolishly reused the original floats. A call to Burlen Ltd made it clear that the original plastic floats are susceptible to modern petrol and have been superseded by a solid 'Stayfloat style W
  4. Bracketry is as rare as chicken teeth, Just saying ! The Sun Visors I purchased from John Skinner last year look good, but not sure if it's how they were originally, as they are much thinner that the ones on my 6 and one of them has creased in the middle when pushing up. Seems whatever is inside is not stiff enough? Rich
  5. Thanks Guys. It seems pretty obvious that in my case the flap is too long and holds off the glass as it sits on top of the seals. I will cut it back and re stitch. Yes Tim, if you look at the Youtube video by John Skinner of his Surrey Top, he does fit a seal across the rear! Whether this is original or not, who knows? Rich
  6. Hi Guys, Um! interesting responses to the 'whether to fit a Servo' or not. I understand the argument that 4/4A's were not fitted and the reason why the 5/6's were, that drivers wanted more refined driving. Well, as my 1965 Sunbeam Tiger and 1972 TR6 both were factory fitted with a servo, and now being in my mid 70's, refined driving is the order of the day. Why make driving difficult, So I think I will fit a servo. Regards Rich
  7. Thanks Stuart. Yes I think they are long. I will attempt to un stitch the folded edge, cut back and re stitch. What fun Rich
  8. Hi Guys, Although my new Surrey Top (supplied by Coventry Hood and Tonneau) looks good and is nice and smooth, I am not happy with the fit on top of the windows. It seems to me that the inside flap is too wide and sits on top of the windscreen and backlight vertical seals and holds the glass away at the top when the glass is up. I assume that it should sit at the edge of the vertical seals not on top of them! I know that the perhaps the general fit in this area can be a bit hit and miss, but I am thinking of un stitching the ends of the flap, cutting back and re stitching so t
  9. Hi Guys, Owning a TR6 and now also TR4A, I have been reading up the pro's and con's of fitting a servo to the TR4A. Clearly there are different views on whether a servo is needed on a TR4 and TR4A, but I do like driving the TR6 with one fitted by design. However, I can't seem to reconcile the views of some that fitting a servo to a TR4A is not necessary, but the factory fitted a servo to a TR5, which has the same body/braking/running gear as the TR4A? Yes the engine is slightly heavier in the TR5, the same as the TR6, but all three have the same chassis and independent suspen
  10. Hi Guys, I'm having a clear out and have a TR4A LH door that has been worked on by a PO but not finished that came with my project car. Metal has been shaped and tack welded in place but needs continued welding in position. If you have the skill it could be made into a very presentable door. It's free ! can be collected or I can pack and post for about £20. if interested PM me. Rich
  11. Hi, I would consider using one of the epoxy bonding adhesives used by modern car body manufactures to attach wings etc. to fi any re-enforcing pieces. I believe 3M do a suitable product. Welding in this area as stated would probably cause distortion. Rich
  12. Yes, the underneath, inside wings, cab, under bonnet and inside boot and doors are all painted in body colour. The underbody and inside of the wings were stone chipped after priming, then painted using 2 pack. Rich
  13. Hi Marco, just to add to Stuarts guide, I found that making up a couple of clamps to which fix a pair of cargo straps to the front of the hood and attaching the other end to the front of the car, one handed it is easy to stretch the hood to get a tight fit. I aso had supplementary cargo strapt to the front wheel which gave a sideways pull. Once stretched I marked the underside of the hood to fix the glue position, slackened off the straps and folded it back and spread glue where marked on the hood and head rail. I then placed a strip of this polythene on the rail, repositioned the hood with c
  14. Hi Richard, The grit blaster was experienced with blasting cars. However, I made sure he did not do the rear deck and front scuttle tops which are easily cleaned up back to bare metal by using rotary tools. Everything else was done, as I say on the turn over jig so nothing was missed. Jase,- all the surfaces, ie the underside, inside the cab, inside the boot etc, and under the wings were primed, stone chipped and spray painted at home. The car was then reunited with the unrestored chassis and taken to a professional paint shop and the body with wings loosely attached was then rubbed
  15. By the way, both the chassis and the body, less wings etc were taken to a grit blaster and blasted whilst on its turn over rig once all repairs were done and immediately primed. The only way! Rich
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