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About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

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    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

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  1. Looks good Roger, very similar to the TR6 set up. I guess a metal 'U' as the 6 would do fixed with small 2BA size bolts rather the spot welds as the 6. Trying to keep it original though. But may go this way if can't manage to convert a DR3A to 2 speed, not yet sure of where the connection of the resistor is across the field coil? Rich
  2. Hi David, I have several TR6 14W wiper motors, all working. If your interested PM me. Rich
  3. Hi Alan, Ah that's interesting. So I can convert an existing DR3a to run 2 speeds by just adding a 10 ohm resistor. Where to get one? Can you possible supply a wiring diagram for the work to be done please. I have 3 fully working 6WA's sitting on my bench at the mo, all stripped., cleaned and working well. Also 2 x 6WA drive units with wheels. What would they be worth then? Thanks Rich
  4. Hi Guys, Would it be possible to substitute a field coil and back plate from a Lucas 6WA 2 speed wiper motor as used on Hillman/Sunbeam cars which had the same shape field coil, to a DR3A and make it 2 speed. I have several 6WA motors under my bench as spares for my Sunbeam Tiger. It seems physically possible, I think it's just the wiring internally and the way the 3 wires a brought out? Thanks Rich
  5. Hi Guys, I know that the subject items are available as repro's and not expensive, but does anybody know of any magic home process than can be used to lesson/improve the yellow aging found on the original polythene bottles over time. I would like to re-use my originals but they are looking a bit tatty in my new engine bay . Thanks Rich
  6. Used the same method, but never had success with other than the bolts as I described, ie: high tensile big end bolts that don't stretch! Rich
  7. Hi Guys, Is there a definitive diagram of the wiring loom route under the bonnet and in the boot for the TR4a anywhere in the Forum or net. The Moss catalogue is rubbish as it is totally wrong. It shows a branch of the loom going through the bulkhead on the LH side to the coil etc. The replacement loom I have is identical to the original, but I am confused to its route under the bonnet. Only one branch, except the wiper motor connection, goes forwards from the RH side of the bulkhead under the pedals ending with connections to the horns, relay. lights ending at the coil on the other side of the engine. Not enough length to go across the top or bottom of the front grill? so what's the route? It would be nice to be able to look at a TR4a, but that's not likely to happen for sometime as all shows etc are cancelled. Help Rich
  8. Hi Dave, it really works just remember very high tensile bolts as described. Rich
  9. Thanks all. I get it now. The RH side is for the 4a additional relay. The LH side has 2 square hole not used. Another problem solved. More to come no doubt as having not taken the car apart and being my first 4a its a bit of a puzzle sometimes. Thanks Rich
  10. Hi Andy, no problem with my magic 4 bolt method. Done it several times, The trick is remove the big nuts, bolt the flanges back to back and tighten the bolts until they break free. However this only works if you use very strong non stretch bolts. I use 4 x 3/8 unf big end bolts ex an MGA engine, slightly modified heads, and its no problem. Once one side is done place a spacer between the flanges and do it again. If you want to borrow the 4 bolts I have just PM me and I will send them to you. Rich.
  11. Hi Roger, love to but can't seem to master adding pictures. I choose and drag the picture, 3.1mb, only to be too large and fails although under the 4.8mb limit? Help Rich
  12. Hi Guys, Just a small thing, but can anybody identify a source for the 4 spire nuts that push/clip into the 4 square holes in the plinth areas where the horns sit. Not sure what screws into them, I didn't strip the car down? The square hole size is I think 1/2 inch. I can't seem to find any reference in the Moss catalogue. There are similar spire nuts in the body used to attach the front light buckets, but these are 7/16 square hole, Moss part No FC2804. Thanks Rich
  13. Hi Guys, Just had my Mazac rear light body's re-chromed. Worked out very well with only a few minor pit left in. However, one of metal indicator bulb holders has not survived the process and is corroded beyond use. I realise that these a peened into the Mazac body and will be difficult to remove. However, I am hopeful that someone perhaps has a beyond use corroded rear light body, as they often are, sculling under the bench or in the 'come in handy box' that I could buy and try to salvage the indicator bulb fitment and refit to mine. Appreciate it if any one can help. Regards Rich
  14. Hi Roger, I thought that Moss did Trim kits from John Skinner but I thought I saw something in the catalogue that the panels were stitched not welded? Moss do not do my colour Midnight blue with white piping. Spoke with John yesterday and he is struggling to keep staff at work and that was before the schools close.
  15. Hi Guys. I am about to order a Trim kit and carpets for my TR4a restoration project. However, in these troubled times, I have tried the usual suppliers, ie: TR Shop and John Skinner , and neither can provide any delivery date owing to not knowing whether they are going to be able to sustain production as a consequence of the Virus. Although they will take orders, but need payment up front, which I am reluctant to do as who knows how things may turn out and suppliers may not survive. John Skinner's product are excellent as I've used them before but quite a bit more expensive than the TR Shop which I have no experience of. Any comments on either product would be appreciated. Sad times. best wishes to all who might be effected by the virus. Regards Rich
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