Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About rvwp

  • Birthday 07/02/1944

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ
  • Yahoo

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    Restoring other peoples abandoned projects!<br />Current cars: <br />MGA 1959<br />TR6 1972<br />Morris Minor 1966

Recent Profile Visitors

336 profile views
  1. Hi Stuart, thanks for the reply. What your suggesting is how I had originally planned to undertake the repair, but unfortunately at the rear the horizontal has corroded away so the top of the inner wing needs attention first. But yes I will do as you say but welding along the edge of the new upright feels me with trepidation as welding old to new on such a length always is difficult, or I just my welding technique!! Here is a picture of my car. Its a 1966 TR4A. Been off the road since 1984 when it last MOt'd then dry stored. Clearly some restoration work, mainly paint stripping, has been done at some time during the last 35 years, but the messy repair work was probably done in the 70/80's when our cars were not worth much. Generally its in pretty good shape except the B posts and the what I have described. Thanks Rich
  2. Hi Guys, Just getting into restoring my recently acquired 1966 TR4A, last on the road in 1984. Rebuilt the B posts, usual problem of rotting around the seat belt anchor points previously plated, messy!. Now starting to sort out the rear deck forward section, centre section and rear section where they join the inner wing. Again messy where back in the day previous repairs were completed by brazing new edge return pieces over the rusty original parts without cutting back the rust. This area can be corrected by making new folded edge pieces and but welding into place. Difficult but doable. However the top of the inner wing where it is dog legged again has been left with rusty ragged edges at the top and just plated over. The top of the inner wing has to cut off to remove this mess. The problem is the replacement dog leg piece to be made is not parallel but tapering from about 3/4 to 0 inch along the offset. Very difficult to make. Any ideas? Thanks Rich
  3. Hi Tush, thanks for the update/information. Great video diary's of your restorations, very usefull, thanks Rich
  4. Hi Guys, sorry too early in the morning! The chassis/vin No should have been stated as CTC64206, not the same as the engine number, Duh!! Was the ST prefix to the engine number in the green registration document an error back in 1966? Should have been CT Thanks Rich
  5. Hi Guys, Just started tearing apart my 66 TR4A, luckily no major surprises. The main rust issues, previously repaired (badly), are the rear inner wing to rear deck, very typical of both TR4 /5 and 6. Luckily the front end /floors and cills are in excellent condition (phew). However more problems will appear I'm sure once all the underseal is removed and the body sand blasted. The car was last taxed in 1985 and the last MOT shows 95585 recorded mileage in April 1985 which ties up with the speedo reading of approx 96000. The car has been dry stored since then with some repair work undertaken over the past 34 years. The chassis/frame number is CTC64191E, engine number CT64191E, stamped on the engine, which ties up with the original green registration book, except that the engine number has been written as ST 64191E. I assume that this was an clerical error by the person writing the data onto the green registration book back in 1966? This information has been transferred to the V5C. I intend to update the engine number when I send off the V5C to transfer the car to my name, Just seeking confirmation that the S prefix is indeed incorrect? Thanks Rich
  6. Hi Guys , How about this simple rig to turn over a TR4/4A/250 or TR6 body shell by Cheftush who uploads a lot of videos relating to working on TR's. Seems pretty simple and stable. Not sure about the fixing to the B post though? www.youtube.com/watch?v=KiIT37D2HD8 regards Rich
  7. Hi Guys, I saw on YouTube a short video demonstrating the use of a scaffold pole/two Workmates to create a roll over jig which allowed a TR250 body shell to be rotated for easy access to the underside. The video was apparently taken by a Dennis Hobbs in 2009 who it said was a register member. Has there been any details posted of this frame on the Forum? I have conducted a search but with no result. Unfortunately the video is a bit blurred but the basis of the frame can be determined and I can reproduce and use it for use on my TR4A restoration, but more detail would be nice. Thanks Rich
  8. Hi Guys, Is it known from Register records how many TR4A's there are on the DVLA records, either on the road or SORN'd? I saw a number of a 1000 total quoted somewhere but not sure how accurate this is. Rich
  9. Hi Guys I see this car went for £5500 on 'themarket.co.uk' auction site. Thought about the car, but with three TR6 restorations under my belt and knowing the hidden problems, looking at all the photo's it needed a brave person with plenty of skills and deep pockets to make a nice car out of this one. Previous restoration work seemed a bit off, especially the use of brazing rather than welding! Good luck to the buyer. Rich
  10. Hi Guys, As a TR6 owner/restorer, I have just acquired a 1966 TR4A, dry stored since 1987, for full restoration. Looking forward to the challenge, just hope it turns out to be as solid as it seems. However, having restored two TR6 basket cases I realise it well may have some of the same hidden body problems, but time will tell?? Question: I need aTR4A workshop manual. Are the "Brooklands books" manuals as good as the original loose leaf manuals which seem to command very high prices despite being well used and perhaps a bit oily. Has anybody got a spare manual to sell? Thanks Rich
  11. rvwp

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Hi Ian, I fitted Pertronic to my 6 and had a couple of roadside breakdowns. The second time found the problem was the cable had broken internally where it joined the module. The cable conductor is not copper cored. Fitted the spare old style points that I carried in case of problems and have been working fine since. That was in 2017. Binned the Pertronic and will stay with traditional points.. Cheers Rich
  12. Doh! I do understand the idea of the stop screw and it is correctly adjusted. The ferrule can be slid up and down the cable. Clearly the crimping during manufacture to the cable outer sleeve is not good as over time this sleeve relaxes and gives way. Ian's suggestion above seems like a good plan which I shall follow up on. Rich
  13. Hi Guys, For the second time I have had been let down by an accelerator cable supplied by Moss. The problem occurs when the sleeve attached to the outer cable where it passes through the bulkhead and retains the cable slips and allows the outer cable to slide, thus no accelerator!! The first time this happened I was enjoying an expensive Hill climb event which had to be curtailed. I complained to Moss technical who to be fair provided a replacement which did seem to have a slightly different sleeve. However, it happened again this weekend A pal is still using an original cable on his 6 for at least 30 years! Anybody else had this problem? My next step will be to get on my trusty lathe and create a locking clamp arrangement instead of the poor crimp arrangement supplied on the Moss cable. Any comment Rich
  14. Hi all Reference my previous recommendation re: CTM conversion brackets, I forgot to mention that I also fitted a new/rebuilt CTM chassis, so no 45 year old original chassis stress points to worry about! Rich
  15. Hi Stan, Go with the CTM version as suggested by Stuart.. I've had them fitted for 10+ years. When you look at them they are clearly designed and built by someone who knows what he is doing. Not surprising really Colin's been around TR racing and restoration for many years. Rich
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.