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About AndyR100

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  • Location
    Windlesham, Surrey
  • Cars Owned:
    '67 Herald 13/60 convertible
    '72 Spitfire (twin 40's)
    '68 Herald 1200 Saloon
    '72 Stag
    '62 TR4

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  1. Your car, your choice..... If it were my car I’d stick to the petrol engine. ....... Andy
  2. If interested, worth watching the progress of Donanemab which was recently granted Breakthrough Therapy designation by the FDA.
  3. Hi Graham, yes, you are quite correct, I have been back through the set-up info - the static timing sets the baseline from which the 123 curve begins. So my car is currently running a little more advance than I had intended. At least I know that it can take that kind of advance without melting anything ..... Andy
  4. Hi Graham, I started off with similar approach as you - but chose a different path after the feedback from Albertronic. My initial question to them related to the need for doing the green-light set up at TDC or at the static timing value. I then configured the centrifugal advance to broadly line up with some of the other example curves that i had found for our cars. In doing so I may have introduced more advance than intended - I’ll have another look (I’m not suffering from pinking or overheating) the great thing about these 123 distributors is that you can adjust all of this
  5. Hi Graham, Of course, my understanding may not be perfect - but i think the reason they recommended dialling-in the 4 degree static advance was so that it was there for starting. Once the car is running - RPM over 650/700 then the advance is controlled solely by the 123, so my defined max advance of 29 degrees is the high watermark. your advance does come in a little stronger than mine in the lower rev-ranges, an area for me to investigate (without melting anything - mine is 87mm liners and a mildly tweaked cam with HS6's) It was a slight relief to see that the MAP calculation w
  6. Good to see that someone else has had a positive experience with the 123tune + . i posted my advance and MAP curves on another recent thread, but I will add here as well. I spoke to the guys at Albertronic who recommended that the static timing should not be added to the curve - just used for initial set up of the 123 (set the static advance and then twist the 123 body for the LED illumination) I also found that my tacho was significantly over-reading One day I’ll get it on a rolling road ....... Andy
  7. I plan to be there in the 4 ....... Andy
  8. Hi Oliver, my max advance is 29 degrees. in my case the MAP advance image above is the vacuum advance - my understanding is that this is in addition to the centrifugal advance (but only applied during the explicit pressure conditions). My MAP (vacuum) advance uses values straight out of the workshop manual. i am not sure how your version of the 123 handles vac advance - I’d guess that each curve will have an applicable additional vacuum advance applied. If in doubt try a quick email to the guys at Albertronic, they replied to me very quickly (sales@albertronic.com) when I needed
  9. Hi Oliver, the 123Tune+ which I installed on my TR4 does not have preset curves - it is completely programmable....... so I can’t confirm a curve number in afraid. If ‘7’ is anywhere close to the one I showed then it should be a reasonable start-point. Bob (Lebro) included a nice chart of comparison curves on this thread - 7 is one of them: There are are some threads where people mention other curves - although you need to be careful that the engine spec is close to yours, no point in comparing a std. 86mm liner engine with an 89mm wild cam’d weber carburated beas
  10. Hi Oliver, I am using a 123 Tune+ attached are screenshots of both my MAP (vacuum) and Centrifugal advance curves - this may help you choose your preset curve. Probably plenty of feedback on this subject which could be different to mine, but this seems to work nicely on my engine. When I set up the 123 initially I was a degree or so more retarded one day it may be treated to a rolling road session but that day hasn’t arrived yet Mine is running 87mm liners, TRGB yellow camshaft and 1 3/4” SU’s - so nothing particularly radical. ....... Andy
  11. Hi Marco, congratulations on completing the g/box swap and a huge ‘thank you’ for sharing the steps/bumps/joys involved - great job! Like you, I would simply drive the car and enjoy the fruits of your labour, tidying up the location of the gear-lever can wait for another day (or not ) Lack of facilities (and skill ) means I won’t be trying this anytime soon, but it has been an inspirational read, thank you! cheers...... Andy
  12. I bought one of these https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/centre-console-armrest-black-gac9977x.html from Moss during one of their winter sales - not cheap at around £70 at the time, but it works well for me, held in place with some strategically applied Velcro. It also houses my seat-heater switches. ...... Andy
  13. This thread has been quite timely for me..... The temp gauge on my 4 has run at just over 1/4 ever since if had it, consequently I never had any overheating thoughts in my mind. couple of weeks ago I had no reading at all on the gauge (car running fine), checking it out I had full deflection on the gauge when connecting the temp sender connection to the block so no issue with gauge or wiring. I got a replacement GTR104 from Chic Doig and all working consistently again - although now I am reading a smidgen over half (185) and I started to have heat-anxiety . This thread h
  14. To add to the sensible advice you have already received, if you have limited idea of value and would like assistance with the sale you could consider someone like TRGB to help with a commission sale or someone like Mark O’Malley of Classic Marks who may purchase from you directly - both advertise in the Club magazine or can be found via a quick search. good luck with your sale ........ Andy
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