jimt

Hi Richard/Kev- I got it direct from a tape specialist -Link below-but you can also find on eBay. The narrowest is 1” - so I LIGHTLY taped the required length to a long straight surface ie. the edge of my long spirit level setting the edge of the tape very carefully along the edge of the level- set my vernier to the width I wanted to cut it and ran it down the edge of the level & tape to lightly mark the tape surface. I then used an 18” steel rule to carefully run a stanley knife down the marked tape. Got it pretty good enough at the second attempt. It peeled easily and cleanly off the pai

After I got my re-anodised Ali crossbar back I refurbished my grill and thought I’d just let all know I’ve found what I think is a good substitute for the braid tape that sits in the channel of the front aluminium cross bar. It’s a premium quality waterproof cloth tape with a nice smooth finish that’s a close enough match to the original - see below & pic. It’s not inexpensive but the best option to the original I could find. Jimt

Forlife still appears to be available though not direct from the Forlife website - which features a TR6 on its home page - Is it different to the Evan’s waterless though ? - as it claims it “Provides exceptionally high heat transfer from engine to coolant and lower engine running temperature.” - it does look to have some additional additives to it and already looks to be mixed with water as it’s an “aqueous solution” - 1/3 the cost of Evan’s & with a 10 year life therefore looks cost effective. Worth putting in to avoid changing every few years? https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-216909-4-

Dogs seem to be more susceptible to things that are not as harmful to us - a whole bar of 85% dark chocolate is enough to poison your dog. Yes for use in food - albeit in small food grade quantities- if you’ve had a cuppa today with milk you’ve had some - When milk is pasteurized, propylene glycol is added as an emulsifier to help distribute the fat more evenly throughout the liquid solution so it doesn’t separate from the other components during storage and transport. I’m starting to feel I wish I’d never looked it up!

Mono propglycol is apparently used in many food products, sweeteners, medical products, cattle feed, shampoos and even some dog foods! etc etc and is generally regarded as non toxic and safe. Now I’m not a chemist but looking online you can see lots of info regarding its applications. I appreciate anything can be regarded as toxic/harmful if taken in excessive quantities above recommended limits eg. Salt, alcohol, sugar etc and I wouldn’t recommend drinking it but I can’t imagine it being approved by the US FDA in food applications or being given a European Union E-number E1520 for food gr

Thanks for educating me on that Rob - wasn’t aware of that! I’ve recontacted their technical dept (told them it’s in a vehicle radiator) they recommend that as long as the original input is still clean you “ ….add a fresh dose of the F1 (corrosion & scale inhibitor) every 5 years as this is its working life” . The F1 is currently £15 from screwfix for 500ml - which treats 130 litres so you’d get 20 doses for a 6’s system - so still very cost effective even if done every few years.

Thanks Stuart - I thought that might be a good idea as it’s quick thick and took an age to drain- got out about 6litres so there’s still a pint in there clinging on to internals- and yes it is very slippy!!

I’ve been using Fernox Alphi 11 in my other cars for several years. When I first heard of its use in our type of cars I did contact Fernox’ technical dept- they said whilst they didn’t market it for vehicles it would do what it was designed to do as per their data sheets and not cause any harm to metals / gaskets components etc. It’s a mono propylene glycol so non toxic -it’s in coke apparently (no the drink:)- so won’t kill you or the cat and is readily biodegradable so enviro friendly. Whilst it’ll cost you twice as much as the blue stuff it doesn’t need changing every 2 years- they don

It’s already in the 6 I’ve recently bought!!! Reading the responses I think I’d like to remove it from the system. But some advice please - Is it just a case of draining and running a hose down the rad to flush or do I need to fill with plain water again, run it to circulate it and drain/flush again. Thanks in anticipation

Thanks for looking Dave. I’ve just collected the re-anodised crossbar and it’s looking better than expected- see pic - if you look very closely you can see where the corrosion was as it’s left some minor pitting but at a few feet it looks ok & acceptable and for £30 is better than the cost of the new front grilles available although I haven’t seen the new ones - can anyone comment on their quality?

Hi Dave McD Tried polishing but didn’t work as there were patches of some sort of dark corrosion marking to the top face anodising that wouldn’t come out to the degree that I actually took the anodised surface off. Am refurbing/tidying the entire grill so have just replaced 4 of the 8 studs on the surround and have given the ‘eggcrate’ and crossbar to my local chromeplater to vapour blast -they will then ‘natural’ anodise the crossbar as silver will be to bright - so will see what that looks like -but I’m not that confident . Will post a pic when it’s done at the end of this week. If I

I’m looking for an excellent unmarked centre cross bar - the aluminium (I think anodised) one that goes across the front of the grill - alternatively does anyone know anyone that can restore this to the original finish ps. If you find what your looking for Trtom2498pi & you’ve the Ali cross bar ‘spare’. Pm me

What sort of price are you having to pay - I was just advised £550 per bumper by Niphos in Crewe - assume this is plus vat- is this higher end or….