jimt

Looking at that I wouldn’t be happy with the performance (in the wet & dry handling) of the Michelin or Dunlop either - both toward the bottom of the list overall . Pirelli for best overall performance it seems - which I’m happy with as the 6 I acquired last year came with Pirelli’s

The one advantage of a block tap -with a nose- is that it allows you to fit a plastic tube to it that’s long enough to avoid getting the coolant all over the starter etc If your removing a blanking plug anyway no extra work to remove the tap after draining if you need too

One way to keep the mileage down

Anyone fitted the 185/80’s to a U.K. car?- if so what’s the verdict? Is there any reason not to ? Are they a good compromise between the 165/80 and the 195/65 - especially with our poor road surfaces etc Jim

Thanks chaps - But those replies don’t explain why the different tyres were specified - or am I missing something? Lower diff ratio = better relative acceleration etc makes sense - so did this also require a different rolling circumference from the tyre to enhance this further? (assuming the 185/80 has a greater overall circumference) - and how would this have affected the accuracy of the Speedo- or were the American speedos calibrated differently to suit?

I thought I’d read somewhere that different sized tyres to the U.K. spec cars were fitted to the US cars - is this correct & if so why?

Just how hot is the fuel returning to the tank? And does it really cause issues ? I also have a ‘72 Pi - albeit with the Bosch pump/filter fitted externally under the n/s boot floor (maybe better/cooler than in the boot?) and don’t experience any problems .

On the USA cars was the suspension set up or spring ratings any different to the U.K. spec cars?

More than likely due to the car being driven off the ramp or a component failure rather than instability of the actual 4 post lift. Any lift - 2/4 post or scissor lift can be subject to that and any lift sold here would be subject to meeting stability parameters within regs etc.

So there are two sizes ? For early/later cars ?

What thread type / size are the exhaust manifold nuts ?

I had a mech mate pit installed many years ago when I had my garage extended - whilst it’s been very useful you still have to be seated in it to work underneath and as older age approaches getting in/out/under can be tiresome. Friends of mine have 4 post full ramp lifts which were very reasonably priced & do not have to be fixed to the floor and can also be moved around on its wheels when fully down. Providing you’ve the headroom -The advantage with these is that you can store a car on it as well as one underneath.

Jerrytr5 said …………..“. Surely to get the best experience you would want to use the best tyre technology affordable and if 'vintage' tyres are using old tread patterns (rubber compounds?) can that be considered best practice?” +1 & each to his own -but my lasting impression of the ‘standard’ Michelins on my 6 in the mid 70’s was how easily they seemed to break away in the wet - but then my driving was a bit more exuberant in my 20’s!! Would the compounds have been changed to up to date ones nowadays?

Had my first TR6 as a 21 yr old in 1976 - a 3 yr old magenta CR that was my daily driver - we were lucky back then as I can’t imagine it’s possible for the average 21 yr old to have a ‘sports’ car today !!! Sold when the family arrived but in ‘86 a TR3a ( BRG /Targo Purple trim) was acquired and slowly rebuild over the next 15 yrs and 3 major house moves! 2 masters class wins later it was sold ending my TR association and we ventured into 30’s vintage motoring until earlier this year at 69 when we had a hankering for another 6 - this time a ‘72 CP saffron yellow car - and very happy with i

Can’t see that lubricating the cable will resolve this - it’s usually a sign of wear in the speedometer itself.