Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About zzzzdave

Profile Information

  • Location
    North East England
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A 1967 White, TR6 1975 Blue

Recent Profile Visitors

371 profile views
  1. Guys thanks for all the fantastic advice, i,ll let you know if any problems thanks Dave
  2. HI had problem about three weeks ago, with bleeding clutch on TR6, despite many attempts with the pedal pushing method, i could not get clutch to bleed and work. I finally solved it by eezibleed from halfords which which worked at first attempt Dave
  3. thats great, thanks for the advice, think i will put a supplementary fixing, now off to get gearbox out Dave
  4. Thanks for the advice one question around the additional secondary/supplemenatry pin in the cross shaft, how is this done? do u drill and tap a thread in the carrier???? have you any pictures thanks Dave
  5. Hi after some advice and peoples view point taking the gearbox out of the TR6 this weekend as J type overdrive is acting up and its going for a rebuild to Sheffield overdrive services . whilst gearbox is out, , i,ll change cross shaft PIN which is a given Should i change clutch plate /release bearing - they are not giving any problem, but its unknown when clutch was last changed) If I change clutch plate any recommendations ??? manufacturers /suppliers Should i change Main Crank Oil seal , is it easily done when Gearbox is out ? , Bottom of engine is wet with oil , not su
  6. Guys now sorted it, bought a Gunson easibleed from halfords and this worked the trick forcing the air straight out highly recommended piece of kit, very simple principle , one man use so didnt have to disturb the wife to pump the pedal suns shining so i can get her out for a run happy now thanks for all the advice
  7. Hi Thanks for all the ideas guys, will have another crack at it this morning Dave
  8. Roger Hi thanks for your thoughts, yes the bleed nipple at the top, I will be changing back to the original Pipe in the morning , to see if it clears the fault, i will aslo check the cross shaft for play any thoughts on the master cylinder being at fault, could draining the fluid have disturbed it some how cheers Dave
  9. Hi , been working on the TR6 today and decided to change the clutch hose as it had a slight weep on it . Changed the hose for a Goodridge braided one from Rimmers , amd now the clutch is dragging , i have bleed the system 4 times now, and checked all joints for tightness, but still not quite enough clearance on clutch to engage 1st or reverse The clutch was fine before i started, with no issues with clearance etc . Could it be the new hose? Car is fitted with 0.70 master cylinder? no wear on clevis pins Slave cylinder mounted correctly- and on middle slot of operatin
  10. yes just checked it cranking and 12volts is seen, with -ve side of coil to earth so i think it is correctly wired what made me look at the circuit in the first place was fitting a thatcham 1 alarm and was looking for a couple of circuits to break with the immobiliser circuits and when i started poking about with the meter , it became obvious that it had a standard 12 volt coil fitted on a ballast system, so i changed the coil to a ballast one today and started to confirm my voltage measurements . Note only had car 3 months so previos owner must have fitted the wrong coil
  11. 6 volts - coil negative side , existing wire removed, and a wire straight to earth coil positive side , wire from harness connected to coil digital multi meter to coil positive side and measures 6 Volts with ignition on, car not running) This is what the Accu spark instructions i got with the car says do to prove if balast resistor wire circuit , thinking about this this is static measurement with coil not pulisng with points/electronic ignition 12 volts - all connected and car running on tick over - connect digital miulti meter red lead to positive of coil and
  12. Hi, Ive read some of the old posts on the subject , but not sure it answers my problem Measuring voltage on +ve side of coil , with -ve side of coil straight to earth , measures about 6V on a digital multi meter. Ballst coil fitted , and ballast wire in loom , which i can see so far so good when i connect up and run car, with car running , and measure voltage on plus side of coil, it measures about 12 V , accupspark elctronic ignition fitted , should this not read no more than 9V whilst running any ideas, it does not make sense
  13. thanks for the feedback, i was intending to connect them to the grill to ram cold air into both pipes , but the consensus seems to leave em off Dave
  14. Hi Can any one advise , where the two Petrol injection air filter intake pipes go I have one pipe fastened to the Grille taking cold air no doubt, the other is just flapping about lower down somewhere in front of the radiator. could you advise where they are suppose to fasten too , any pictures welcome thanks Dave
  15. Alec greatr thanks, thats cleared that up Dave
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.